Was noise your only issue? Did you notice any exhaust smell in the cabin? I was thinking much further back (more like the McLaren) and still using a muffler.
I have an R so no smell in the cabin. With an S you might have an issue with the exhaust being pulled into the cabin since the windshield makes the cabin a low pressure area. Other than that I had no issues with the placement.
I changed due to the noise factor. Even with mufflers, the pipes are very close to your head and the noise is going to be intense, especially without a helmet on!
I have an S with exhaust straight out the rear lower grill and I get quite a bit of fumes, so installed a Plexiglas shield on the roll bar, but still get some exhaust fumes in the cockpit.Attachment 120755
I have an S with exhaust straight out the rear lower grill and I get quite a bit of fumes, so installed a Plexiglas shield on the roll bar, but still get some exhaust fumes in the cockpit.
I knew the lower exit caused fumes, I was hoping a high exit would get it above the suction, although I knew it was unlikely.
I plugged in the throttle body that Bob sent me, and it made the same noises that mine did, so I guess I have a wiring/noise issue to track down and eliminate. I'm putting it on my list of things to do down in April as I'm trying to make a track day in March before it gets too hot to be working not the car in a parking lot between laps.
Finally got the fuel system back together mostly leak free and was able to fire the car up with the new ECU and make sure it ran. Also was able to shift through gears. Looks like I need to tear apart one of the axles:
Made really good progress today. First off I was able to install the Baer bumpsteer kit. I have it maxed out and still be able to grab the lock nut, I saw a lot of people saying they used 46mm, but there is no way to use 46mm with the bolt they sent me, the most I could get was about 32. If I need more spacers I'll have to drill the spindle and use a large bolt.
After that the shifter that idf sent me came in, so I was able to modify and install it. Now that I had all of the linkage worked out and shifter, I was able to be much more conservative with my trimming. The shifter assembly itself is much stiffer now.
Once I have all of the interior worked out and I've built my CNC Router, I may come back and try to make a billet shifter for some visual bling, but most likely I'll put a boot on it and keep it looking like a stock interior.
After that I turned my attention to the drivers side axle. I pulled it out and put it on the bench, and I could not get the two ends to spin separately from each other. It must need to be stretched really good to slip. So I put it back in, and if I don't push the CV all the way into the transmission, everything works, but I'm not sure how much engagement the CV has to the transmission with it sitting like this. Am I okay to leave it like this or do I need to get it seated all the way in. To be clear I can get it to seat all the way in, but that stretches and I'm afraid it will start slipping again if I do. If I need to get it seated, what other adjustments do I have to try and keep it from slipping?
Lastly I took out the manual and went through the front and back suspension to make sure nothing was installed backwards, upside, etc; it all looked good. After that I checked the torque on every single bolt in the suspension and marked it with a sharpie.
Bleed the brakes, install seat belts, burp the radiator, secure loose wiring, take it for a drive around the block.
If I am reading your information correctly, the axle ends do not spin separately, they are fixed. The axle must be seated all the way into the transmission to it to operate properly.
The axle looks like it’s wobbling in your video on the transmission side cv joint. I don’t know if that’s normal but it seems like it’s not. What if you jack up your rear suspension instead of it being unloaded?
The wobble in the video was due to the fact that the axle had separated from the CV. I've not thought about jacking the suspension up to see if it helps with keeping the axle seated into the CV, good idea.
Still trying to burp the cooling system. I repaired the stock expansion tank and swapped it out with the aftermarket unit I had, then I got crazy with getting the radiator to be the highest point in the system.
I'm still not convinced it is burped properly. It is holding temp at 214 for 30+ minutes, but the fan never turns off, and the temperature will never drop a single degree. The radiator never gets over 80 degrees.
I'm thinking about adding an electric booster pump at the outlet of the radiator.
Still trying to burp the cooling system. I repaired the stock expansion tank and swapped it out with the aftermarket unit I had, then I got crazy with getting the radiator to be the highest point in the system.
I'm still not convinced it is burped properly. It is holding temp at 214 for 30+ minutes, but the fan never turns off, and the temperature will never drop a single degree. The radiator never gets over 80 degrees.
I'm thinking about adding an electric booster pump at the outlet of the radiator.
The expansion tank should have a couple places for vent lines to terminate. In addition to one from Wayne's mod, there should also be one from the radiator and another from the turbo.
Also, did you check the temperatures across the thermostat? If it is stuck closed, you would not get any flow to the front of the car. If all is as it should be, then there was a discussion several years ago about there being two styles of water pumps. The older style moved more coolant.
I do have Wayne's mod piped into the expansion tank, along with the turbo and 1 other factory line. I believe the port that Wayne's mod is hooked up to fed the oil heater before I removed such a thing. I have a 1.06 bar cap on the expansion tank and a 1.25 bar cap on the radiator.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
I ordered a new thermostat and a funnel, will try again next weekend. Cleaned up some wiring, tweaked my seat base mounts, and then moved on to seat belts. I’m just now realizing I have to fabricate my own lower mounting points, wish I had reAlized this much sooner, I’ve a lot of stuff to remove to give myself room to weld now.
I ordered a new thermostat and a funnel, will try again next weekend. Cleaned up some wiring, tweaked my seat base mounts, and then moved on to seat belts. I’m just now realizing I have to fabricate my own lower mounting points, wish I had reAlized this much sooner, I’ve a lot of stuff to remove to give myself room to weld now.
You will need to relocate the coolant reservoir before using the funnel. ZDB's kit os nice, but you can also make your own with some aluminum angles. Photo below.
Find anywhere in the coolant hoses that you can squeeze and deform a lot. Then listen close and vigorously have at it. If you can hear gurgling/bubbling sounds somewhere while doing that you know you still have air to get rid of. And that is probably 90% of the time what the cooling issues are with this front rad-rear engine setup IMO.
I do believe I have a bad thermostat. If I am correct it is located on the bottom drivers side of the engine, where the radiator supply hose comes in. A laser thermometer shows 235F on the engine side, and 125F on the hose, dropping quickly to ambient before even tracing back to where the hose meets the pipe. I'm going to swap the thermostat and try again.
I whipped up an expansion tank relocation bracket this afternoon, seems like a simple enough task, but by time you measure, cut a cardboard template, cut a wood template, cut a metal plate, drill the holes, clean it up, powder coat it, you've lost 3 hours.
I made mine from a piece of 1/4" steel plate. That is probably overkill for what it is doing, but I happened to have a corner scrap that was the perfect size left over from the VW brake bracket, all I had to do was notch it. so....
I do believe I have a bad thermostat. If I am correct it is located on the bottom drivers side of the engine, where the radiator supply hose comes in. A laser thermometer shows 235F on the engine side, and 125F on the hose, dropping quickly to ambient before even tracing back to where the hose meets the pipe. I'm going to swap the thermostat and try again.
I whipped up an expansion tank relocation bracket this afternoon, seems like a simple enough task, but by time you measure, cut a cardboard template, cut a wood template, cut a metal plate, drill the holes, clean it up, powder coat it, you've lost 3 hours.
I made mine from a piece of 1/4" steel plate. That is probably overkill for what it is doing, but I happened to have a corner scrap that was the perfect size left over from the VW brake bracket, all I had to do was notch it. so....
Friday I got up early and headed to the garage for what was probably going to be a long day. I had to remove the seats, gas-tank (which mean undoing fuel lines and fuel pump and senders etc), and side-wall aluminum so that I could weld in some seatbelt brackets for the floor mounts. It took forever (okay maybe only 19 minutes per side) to drill out all of the rivets on the side panel aluminum. A few of them popped out in only a few seconds, but most of them were not tight and started turning in the hole, and took some real pressure and time to bust off. The mounts themselves were pretty simple, 3/16 plate welded to the square tube frame. I spent a lot time practicing welding over the holidays, but practicing on a flat table and welding vertical and laying in odd positions inside of a car are two different things. In the end I'm sure I got great penetration, but it is still far uglier that I had hoped for:
While I had the seats out, I modified my mounting brackets because there was a little looseness that caused the seats to rock and chatter a little bit. The old mount had one piece of tube sitting under the seat rail that was pinned between the car frame and the bracket, but this allowed it to rock side to side just a little. I believe this was caused by just a small amount of slack introduced by the riv-nuts I put into the frame for the bracket. Nothing structurally wrong, but annoying to hear the clickity clack. I swapped to a piece on each end of the seat rail, this eliminated any rocking and noise.
I still have to modify the side panel aluminum to clear the outside seatbelt mounting point, and figure out how to seal it up so I don't get hot air coming off the coolant pipes.
Speaking of cooling... I dropped the thermostat in a pot of water and it didn't open at all until well over 200 (it was marked for 170) degrees and didn't really look like it was opening up all the way ever.
To fill the system I uncapped the radiator, uncapped the expansion tank, and filled the expansion tank until it was running of the radiator. Then I put the radiator funnel that was recommended onto he expansion tank, and let the car get to temperature and I was sure the thermostat was open and it felt like most of the bubbles were out. Then I capped the radiator and topped off the funnel and let car heat all the way up and cool itself back off a few times using the fan. After I shut the car down I was able to pull the funnel, cap the expansion tank, and let the car heat/cool a few more times. Now that the thermostat is opening and it appears to be burped, the fan only runs for about 45 seconds to pull the car down from 205 to 190.
Thanks for all the advice on the cooling system, that funnel was a huge help, obviously only possible by relocating the expansion tank.
Last week I thought I had the cooling system solved, this weekend, I'm overheating again. I either have another stuck/plugged thermostat, or I have air that is preventing the system from circulating. I used my laser thermometer to get surface temps at different points in the cooling system. The inlet to the block where the thermostat is tells the whole story.
My gut tells me the thermostat is stuck, because if it was open, there would be better convective heat transfer through the area. The profile looks more like conductive heat transfer. I think I'll pull the thermostat next weekend and see if it looks plugged up.
AJz,
My cooling system is working great. I just fill it. then let it heat up and I top off the degas tank.
I think your problem is air pockets in the radiator. The water pump doesn't have enough pressure to push the air pocket down to the exit hole of the radiator.
The coolant from the water pump has a couple of choices on where it goes. The restriction in the radiator causes no water to flow that route.
I added a bleed hose from the top of the radiator back to the degas tank.
Thanks for the tips Bob. Time to break out my old fluid transfer textbook and think about the system. I’m really starting to think hard about an electric booster pump.
As I started thinking about modifying the cooling system to help with bleeding, my AC unit showed up today and I realized I have to incorporate that into the system anyways, so I might as well get it installed and address the bleeding issues at the same time.
Does anyone remember which build thread had a modified frame around the passenger dash to allow the AC Unit to sit higher in the dash? I know I saw it but after an hour or searching I can't relocate it.
Very late to the party and off topic but is that old moded Mustang yours?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
As I started thinking about modifying the cooling system to help with bleeding, my AC unit showed up today and I realized I have to incorporate that into the system anyways, so I might as well get it installed and address the bleeding issues at the same time.
Does anyone remember which build thread had a modified frame around the passenger dash to allow the AC Unit to sit higher in the dash? I know I saw it but after an hour or searching I can't relocate it.
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Originally Posted by redbudrr
