MJS Mk4 Build Thread

[460.465USMC]

Oh, boy! You must be getting close now. How exciting!

[edwardb]

Looking really good. Finally.

[MSumners]

Agreed very excited to have it back and start working on the detail oriented final assembly pieces. The body/paint took longer than anticipated but being honest probably worked out for the best as during that timeframe we moved and are really just getting well settled. Definitely back in the nesting stage with the new garage space. Working on finding everything I need to finish up when it gets back and get the registration process going.

I’ve recently considered a garage floor tile covering like race deck or something similar, anyone have opinions that has had one installed for more than a couple seasons? Here in Michigan I was worried it would just be a huge dirt trap of sorts but like the look.

[edwardb]

I’ve recently considered a garage floor tile covering like race deck or something similar, anyone have opinions that has had one installed for more than a couple seasons? Here in Michigan I was worried it would just be a huge dirt trap of sorts but like the look.

I've had Race Deck in my garage for a number of years and multiple builds. I like it a lot. When the truck build is done, I need to stop and give it a good cleaning. But it's holding up well. I've used shop cranes, engine stands, jack stands, floor jacks, you name it, with no issues. I've had a couple tiles that got dented when I dropped something really heavy. Easy to pop out the tile and replace. I have extras. Only thing it doesn't like is welding. But I don't weld. So not an issue. Not only does it look good, it's better to work on than bare concrete. Highly recommended.

[MSumners]

[egchewy79]

stunning color combo. love the silver on dark blue look

[MSumners]

Transcontinental en route. No real comparison however I have nothing but good things to say about reliable transport.

Tried inserting a video but had to bail on it again.
Realize this is discussed ad-nauseum but a plug for a basic el-cheapo battery. Bought a basic “normal” battery for around 100$. 10 months at paint. Ken took off the leads on arrival last June, reattached nearly 10 months later and it started immediately. I suppose that’s a plug for Fortes 347 as well.

First order of business on arrival is get the lights Re-installed and schedule inspection.

[JeffP]

Looking great! I plan on doing the same color combination, looking forward to some more pictures when you get it home.

[Traveller]

Very exciting, Mike! Won't be long now.

Can't wait to see it in person.
Jason

[Jim1855]

We're going to have to party at Mike's. Probably closer to an "invasion".
Jim

[MSumners]

We're going to have to party at Mike's. Probably closer to an "invasion".
Jim

I’m good with this. I’ll send acceptable dates.

[MSumners]

The eagle is in the nest!
Basically my agenda for the next bit involves standing and staring. Hats off to Ken Pike it is perfect without question.
Needs a good cleaning already showed up soaking wet as the reliable truck apparently had an “impressive leak in the trailer”. But not to worry he is going to sort it out soon they say. So much for covered transport. Nonetheless the car is freaking perfect. I really can’t believe this thing is sitting in my garage. When I can pull my jaw off the floor I’ll start final assembly

[Barwickad]

Congratulations, looks amazing. Love the color combo.

[JeffP]

Absolutely gorgeous. You're giving me goosebumps!

[MSumners]

Anyone happen to know off hand where the serial number is on a Tremec tko 600? I need it for registration papers and my jack is currently unavailable so if I know the rough location would make my search easier.

[edwardb]

Anyone happen to know off hand where the serial number is on a Tremec tko 600? I need it for registration papers and my jack is currently unavailable so if I know the rough location would make my search easier.

My experience is there's a metal tag under one of the case bolts that has the part number and serial number. Located where the tailshaft section is bolted to the main case.

[MSumners]

Just got to testing pre-inspection and realized I now have no turn signals, tach or Speedo. All worked previously so rather unfortunate. Otherwise the headlights, taillights, brake lights hazards and brights still work as they should. Wishing there may be a common single solution but really can’t recall if there might be. Time to go back to the wiring diagrams. Anyone has an idea of a common point to check let me know.
At least for the turn signals the fact they light with the hazards and the rear with brakes I suppose I’ll start at the RT signal connections.


Edit: glad I made the dash easily removable. The RT connection weatherpack was just loose. All lights back in check. I’ll track down the gauges but at least with all lights working I can continue with the inspection process in the meantime.

[MSumners]

[MSumners]

Ive been prepping everything for the Michigan inspection and registration process. I was able to get the inspection and form Tr-54 filled out and signed this morning without issue. Really convenient having a single police officer for the town that knows everyone, makes the process simple.
I was surprised when I went to the SOS afterwards with all the receipts, COO and inspection form. They said just come back with a weight slip, proof of insurance and will be good to issue title registration and plates. Different than what I was expecting because no separate VIN number was requested.. they plugged in the chassis number as the VIN and used 1965 as the date, thus calculated the registration based on weight just like they did back in ‘65. Either way, very smooth and quick. If the weather was better I would have obtained a weight slip but I’ll have to wait. They also said they were adding factory five as a auto maker to the database to make things quicker in the future. Interested to hear if this is what others experienced or how it is in the future.

[edwardb]

Ive been prepping everything for the Michigan inspection and registration process. I was able to get the inspection and form Tr-54 filled out and signed this morning without issue. Really convenient having a single police officer for the town that knows everyone, makes the process simple.
I was surprised when I went to the SOS afterwards with all the receipts, COO and inspection form. They said just come back with a weight slip, proof of insurance and will be good to issue title registration and plates. Different than what I was expecting because no separate VIN number was requested.. they plugged in the chassis number as the VIN and used 1965 as the date, thus calculated the registration based on weight just like they did back in ‘65. Either way, very smooth and quick. If the weather was better I would have obtained a weight slip but I’ll have to wait. They also said they were adding factory five as a auto maker to the database to make things quicker in the future. Interested to hear if this is what others experienced or how it is in the future.

What??? Now that's a major change for Michigan. Is it being titled as an assembled vehicle? Doesn't sound like it. Because that process was completely managed in Lansing and the local SOS office just collected all the forms and sent them. Usually was several weeks for the VIN and title.

[Kodiak]

Mine was close to that TR-54 was completed. 2 days later at sec of state they listed mine as 1965 replicar ,title issued in 8 days used ffr number as vin super smooth in and out 15 minutes.

[MSumners]

Agreed different than I expected but very easy. Keep you posted on my return trip how it turns out. They did say title would be under 1965 Replica

What??? Now that's a major change for Michigan. Is it being titled as an assembled vehicle? Doesn't sound like it. Because that process was completely managed in Lansing and the local SOS office just collected all the forms and sent them. Usually was several weeks for the VIN and title.

[MSumners]

https://youtube.com/shorts/U2Lp-0-IKDs?feature=share

[MSumners]

Fairly certain I’m not using it but is this supposed to go in the door sill? Feeling geometrically challenged.

Gauges tracked and fixed. Tach was a connection to the gauge that must have been loose and the Speedo I ended up using a GPS signal anyhow so all is working.
Next is finishing up the carpet and interior.

Have an appt at the SOS to get registered on Friday so hopefully the person I see Friday agrees with the plan the last time I was there.

[edwardb]

Fairly certain I’m not using it but is this supposed to go in the door sill? Feeling geometrically challenged.

Yes, that piece goes along the top of the door sill. It actually fits and works well if you glue it one section at a time. Gives the area a finished looked. Wouldn't look great being left off. But maybe you have other ideas on how to finish. Maybe the first picture below helps. I had the edges bound since in stock form they leave a raw carpet edge exposed. The long straight side goes along the top of the door sill with the bound edge in my case facing in towards the cockpit. Then in bends 90 degrees and the curved parts fits around the door opening. On the ends, one bends up and stops right before the door latch. The other end bends up and stops at the door hinge. There's a long "tab" (if you can call it that) on the one side that gets trimmed off. I'm assuming Factory Five left it in the pattern to get some strength in that area before it's glued down. Otherwise the carpet piece would be very narrow in that area. The second picture (best I could find) shows the area after installation. Hopefully that all makes sense and helps. Your car looks great in the short video. Good luck at the SOS. Very interested in hearing how that all turns out since it's so different from what I've experienced (and their instructions...).

[MSumners]

Had to reschedule the SOS visit today. Ended up getting the ride height set and a professional alignment done. Drives beautifully and even better now. Just took longer than they thought with the alignment so I’ll reschedule the registration visit. Working through the carpet and it’s looking great. As with about every other part of the build involves a part being test fitted about 10 times with small adjustments before final placement.

[Jim1855]

Mike,
Looking great, can't wait to see it live.
Jim

[BadAsp427]

Fairly certain I’m not using it but is this supposed to go in the door sill? Feeling geometrically challenged.

Gauges tracked and fixed. Tach was a connection to the gauge that must have been loose and the Speedo I ended up using a GPS signal anyhow so all is working.
Next is finishing up the carpet and interior.

Have an appt at the SOS to get registered on Friday so hopefully the person I see Friday agrees with the plan the last time I was there.

This is an option... this is how I did mine and it looks really clean now that it is all done. CLICK HERE

[MSumners]

Getting closer to true graduation, one thing off the list every few days.
The short list is : wheel wells, roll bar re-install after PC, final addition dash panel work, wheel spinners, sun visors, license plate mount modification, wiper boxes and hard lines.

[MSumners]

The SOS says you’re allowed to drive to the weigh station to get a weight printed before registration. Somehow I now have 74 miles on my car which basically involves the roads back and forth near the weigh station. May have been a loose interpretation but I’ll say reasonable.

[Blitzboy54]

First of all your cockpit and dash is spectacular. Congratulations on a beautiful build.

Also if the button on the steering wheel is anything but a rocket booster I’m going to be bummed.

[MSumners]

Registration attempts continued: Finally had time to get back to the SOS with the requested weight slip and proof of insurance. Unfortunately received different info this time and they said I really didn’t need insurance or the vehicle weight and that the VIN wouldn’t be as previously planned but would need to be issued. The downside here is that they believe it will be at least 8 more weeks for me to be contacted regarding the VIN placement because they are so backlogged. The clerk at the SOS actually went as far to say she would be surprised if they even called me. Interesting. Obviously totally different than I was told a month ago but more in line with what I’ve read online in terms of the process. Maybe it’ll end up being quicker than expected but for now the battery tender and car cover are on.

[MSumners]

I noticed the tiniest bit of fluid (a couple ml) under the car just to the left of center approximately straight under the left frame rail. It appeared to be either oil or coolant to be honest had a hard time telling which. Looked almost like it either sprayed from somewhere or was blown around some during driving based on the small amount of splatter pattern.
Nonetheless to my shear horror I found the hole shown below in the water pump housing! Likely a manufacturing issue or something i missed?
Seriously any help here would be greatly appreciated.

[edwardb]

Water pumps typically have a drain hole at the bearing location. But that looks like a casting void to me. Not good. Might be possible to plug it with JB Weld or whatever. Or maybe it can be welded. But I know next to nothing about that subject. If it were me, I'd replace it. And not be too happy doing it...

[Jeff Kleiner]

That isn't the water pump, it's the timing chain cover. Nonetheless there is coolant passing between the block and pump near (just below it when viewing your photos, somewhat hidden by that accessory bracket spacer) that apparent casting blowout so conceivably you could be getting coolant through it. Shoot it with some brake cleaner to remove any residual and blow it dry then run it and observe for actual leakage. If it is letting coolant through I'm sorry to say that you're looking at replacing the timing chain cover.

Jeff

[edwardb]

That isn't the water pump, it's the timing chain cover. Nonetheless there is coolant passing between the block and pump near (just below it when viewing your photos, somewhat hidden by that accessory bracket spacer) that apparent casting blowout so conceivably you could be getting coolant through it. Shoot it with some brake cleaner to remove any residual and blow it dry then run it and observe for actual leakage. If it is letting coolant through I'm sorry to say that you're looking at replacing the timing chain cover.

Jeff

Oops. Good catch. Didn’t look close enough. Of course agree with the steps described.

[MSumners]

Thanks gents I appreciate it !
I’ll check tonight but based on deposits would be willing to bet the farm it’s leaking.
Time to get this sorted before summer slips by.

That isn't the water pump, it's the timing chain cover. Nonetheless there is coolant passing between the block and pump near (just below it when viewing your photos, somewhat hidden by that accessory bracket spacer) that apparent casting blowout so conceivably you could be getting coolant through it. Shoot it with some brake cleaner to remove any residual and blow it dry then run it and observe for actual leakage. If it is letting coolant through I'm sorry to say that you're looking at replacing the timing chain cover.

Jeff

[johnnybgoode]

Just my 2 cents but it looks like the timing cover may have been damaged when the hole in that particular timing cover boss was drilled and tapped during the manufacturing process.

IMG_0293.jpg

I think the hole with the damage is the furthest to the left on the driver's side WP port (see pic). You may be in luck since that hole is not used on most current SBF water pumps and is covered by the WP gasket and backing plate so there shouldn't be any high-pressure coolant behind it just low-pressure oil being splashed around by the timing set. As others have suggested you may be able to clean it up and seal the hole with a fillet of JB Weld. It's actually in a pretty good spot for that, just fill up that little valley with JB (use a bit of JB Putty to block the hole and then fill with liquid JB so none of the epoxy leaks into the timing cover). It may be worth a try before you start pulling things apart. Unfortunately, you will have to pull the balancer and drop the pan to replace the timing cover which is a bit of a pain but not too bad if you have access to a lift. Good Luck. Scott

[MSumners]

Thanks again for the recs. If there’s no major risk with JB weld and it’ll even possibly get me through the summer I think that’s the direction I’m heading. If I need to pull things apart I would prefer to not miss the driving season if possible. Thanks again.

[MSumners]

Time to test the JB weld temp fix