my RAM HDX clutch from Forte arrived at my house...now it waits in storage with my trans for me to get home.
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my RAM HDX clutch from Forte arrived at my house...now it waits in storage with my trans for me to get home.
Painted the under hood, inside of doors and trunk with the final color, Ford Royal Blue Metallic. Just trying to save a few bucks, the paint shop will do the rest. Looks good.
I installed heat shields on the side pipes. Black on black. Hung out with Mr. David Borden for a while, as I used his 4 post lift to do the install. Good day.
I took Glenn's AWSOME Coyote flanges and fit them to the 4.6 headers.
About a 30 mile drive.
I spent a few hours today trying to get her road worthy again. Started on replacing the front coil-over springs and working towards the install of the front sway-bar. I'll be back at it at least for a few hours tomorrow as well.
Frank
__________________________
Factory Five Racing MKIII Super Snake Replica. Cannonball Cobra Drop Trunk Box, Horn Button and other machined Do Dads.
i.e.427 Chromed Full Width Roll Bar with integrated LED Third Brake Light.
I will never forget My Buddy Paul.
Finished the ABS and tested it. Man this car will stop now!
Greg
I welded Glenn's Coyote flanges to the 4.6 headers after doing the fit up yesterday.
After Mass when out for a ride only to find myself in Memphis, Tn when I stopped for gas! Forgot about the papers I have to write and the exam I need to do. It was time for a ride! Full tank of gas and the open road! Now I'll pay for it as I sit up late tonight studying... but it was worth it!
Time to head back home to Arkansas and return to my studies!
175.jpg
Last edited by R. Button; 03-13-2011 at 06:15 PM.
Ralph Button
FFR 1436 (PROUD Owner of an Original Mark I)
400,013 miles as of 11/1/2009
417,840 miles as of 8/12/2010
435,021 miles as of 12/19/2011
Now a well broken in 347 engine
523,145 miles as of 7/29/2014
601,165 miles as of 6/1/2018
615,215 miles as of 4/23/2022
"It's not about the destination, it's the about the journey. And where is your journey taking you?"
"... Not all who wander are lost!... --J.R.R. Tolkien
Sprayed on a couple more coats of Slick Sand.
Back to block sanding.
FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,
Marked the centers on the body for stripes using a home built frame, tape measure, level, and a plumb bob. Removed the body from the chassis, off to the paint shop Wednesday. Great day.
Today I got my tires mounted and then went on to modify a 35 degree 3-1/2 inch elbow by welding on a boss for the mass airflow sensor and a boss for the factory supplied hose from the breather. The elbow will bethe only thing between the coyote and a conical air filter. I'm trying to keep it as compact and clean as possible.
Pulled the engine to fix a pan leak.
Picked up August 2010, first start 12/22/10, first go-kart 12/23/10, first donuts 1/12/11. 427W, TKO500, 3.73 gears
Graduation thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...duate-FFR-5979
Don't be so happy with that clutch. 1500 miles and pressuer plate failure. Spring broke on PP and you don't want to fix that in chassis.. Ask Ron????
Currently re-building FFR5066K 5.0 T5 3:55 four link.
Working on what I thought was a spark issue, now looking for a vacume leak.
Doug
This was what we did.
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268219
Got my side pipes back from the Ceramic coater and back on the car. New belts/harnesses. Man this car is a blast to drive!
I re-installed my seats with the seat mounting plates from Breeze. Of course, I had to test drive the seats. I took my son to Sunday night Youth group and he said "Dad, your new seats feel GREAT!" I have to agree with him - the tilt that the Breeze mounting plates have add a huge amount of comfort to the low-back seats.
David
My Saving Grace: John 3:16
FFR6687, Graduate #39 in the Class of 2009
The Factory Five Forum March 2012 POM
Cut out the drivers side footbox and added new 1.5" square and 1.5" DOM to open it up and allow room for my size 13's. Also had the 3-link bracket welded to the frame. Finally I dropped it off to have the blue paint stripped and it powdercoated black. Should be ready next weekend.
MK3.1 #7076 - Under Construction....
Coyote 5.0/Solid 8.8/Tremec 3650
How to:
Coyote Power Steering
05-09 T3650 in a Roadster
Member Antny from Hemet came by to help me corner weight the car today. Not perfect but very close to perfect. I recently changed the spring rates in the car all the way around and added a front anti-sway bar. Ride height and corner weights were really close out of the box. We only had to make minimal changes to get it as close to spot on as it's ever been.
Frank
__________________________
Factory Five Racing MKIII Super Snake Replica. Cannonball Cobra Drop Trunk Box, Horn Button and other machined Do Dads.
i.e.427 Chromed Full Width Roll Bar with integrated LED Third Brake Light.
I will never forget My Buddy Paul.
still nothing =)
FFR cobra
RCR Superlite
RCR 917
04 Cobra/Z06/Diablo/bunch of other junk
60ish degrees and sunny so I pulled Steve's Mk4 out to the driveway to sand/apply/sand Rage, keeping the dust out of the garage. Later I took mine to the grocery store. First drive of the season (I took the long way there and back )!
Jeff
Started laying flooring in the new garage, just need to wire, insulate and drywall!
10 years after my roadster build....
289 FIA (pickup 28/08/20 if covid permits)
currently building a 289 and accumulating parts needed to finish a Canadian Kit.
Installed Breeze battery tray in engine compartment and installed master cylinder and modified offset (now adjustable) brake pushrod.
Edited to add information on making stock pushrod adjustable:
Sorry, but the stock pushrod is installed in the car, but here's a description of what I did - I'd also be happy to answer questions if anyone wants to contact me via PM. After modifying the brake pedal ('94 pedal box) to work with manual brakes and installing the master cylinder ('94 - '95 SVT version - new from FFR), I found that the pivot stud on the pedal lever put the large end of the pushrod about 3/8" lower than the master cylinder, meaning that there was a slight vertical misalignment between the pushrod and the master cylinder planes. At the time, I was using an aftermarket adjustable pushrod - the type that is a two-piece version connected via a sleeve nut. Unfortunately, that type of pushrod is only available with the large end in line with the rod, not offset like the power brake booster version that is shown in the FFR manual. I sourced an OEM part from an early '90s Mustang power booster locally, but found that I didn't like how the end of the rod fit into the master cylinder piston recess - it was way too loose. Plus it was too short for my tastes and I wanted to still have some adjustability in addition to just using the spacer plates provided in the kit. The adjustable pushrod that I had was a much better fit in the master cylinder piston recess and even included a spring in a groove at the end that helped keep the rod seated in the master cylinder piston recess. The solution was to cut the OEM pushrod in half so that I could use the offset end of that pushrod with the better fitting end of the adjustable aftermarket pushrod. To make this work, since the OEM pushrod was much thicker at the end where it mounts to the brake lever, all I had to do was use a lathe to gun-drill the rod, then tread it internally to accept the other half of the adjustable pushrod. The finished product gave me the offset I needed to bring the pushrod into alignment vertically with the master cylinder, while also giving a nice fit for the rod inside of the master cylinder pushrod recess. I topped it all off with a rubber boot from a '65 / '66 Mustang brake pushrod and have a nice, finished installation - here's a pic:
And here's a picture of the installed Breeze battery tray. I had it powdercoated to blend in with the rest of the engine compartment, then used a pair of chrome 1/4" bushings instead of a stack of washers for the gap between the tray and the 4" round frame tube. For those who are concerned about the difficulty of installation, don't be - it was a snap. You'll need a 90 degree drill to make the lower holes in the X member and the two that go into the 4" round tube as well as a 1/4-20 tap for the holes in the 4" round tube. The instructions are very clear and easy to follow and the part fits as described.
I thought some of you may also appreciate pictures of the block-off plate I made using some scrap aluminum sheet I had laying around. I was unhappy with the large gap around the master cylinder, particularly at the top where the hole is not concentric, so I made this plate. Below are pictures of the before, during, and after:
Before:
Mock-up:
Test fit:
Installed behind master cylinder with one FFR spacer:
Last edited by Gumball; 03-23-2011 at 08:43 PM.
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074
Installed fuel filter bracket, finished master cylinder / pushrod installation, and began mocking-up brake and fuel lines using a very stiff wire to make templates.
I used the stock Mustang fuel filter bracket (powdercoated) and mounted it in the location shown in the FFR manual. I even re-used the Ford self-tapping screws (use a #10 bit to drill the holes). The filter is a stock Ford Motorcraft part #FG-800A (E7DZ-9155-A).
Pics of the mocked-up brake and fuel lines to follow.
Last edited by Gumball; 03-23-2011 at 08:46 PM.
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074
There are a LOT of posts in here that would make good threads in themselves. Take the posts quoted, for example (no offense Chris, it's just an example). It would be cool if these was posted with pics, and a good description of the different techniques included. How did you make your pushrod adjustable? What route did you decide to use for the fuel lines? Where did you put the fuel filter? What type of filter, etc...Originally Posted by Gumball
Just an observation. Looking for good threads / posts to start filling the Wiki...
FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)
Visited my baby at the paint shop.
Picked up August 2010, first start 12/22/10, first go-kart 12/23/10, first donuts 1/12/11. 427W, TKO500, 3.73 gears
Graduation thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...duate-FFR-5979
Updated to add pictures and descriptions of my brake pushrod mod and other projects per David's request.
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074
More block sanding.
Block_sanding_013a.jpg
FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,
Marty,
I've got a 2001 4.6 SOHC with the original intake manifold. Yes, the ones that have the all plastic coolant passage that is prone to cracking and was the subject of a recall. I've been keeping my eye on the failure-prone area, and I'm contemplating just swapping it out. But I can't decide if I should just wait until it starts to fail or just bight the bullet and do it now.
So, I'm wondering, why did you replace your intake manifold? Did yours fail? Did you swap it out to prevent it from failing?
David
My Saving Grace: John 3:16
FFR6687, Graduate #39 in the Class of 2009
The Factory Five Forum March 2012 POM
Picked up the body at the paint shop, looks great. Hope to be finished in 3-4 weeks.
This weekend was fuel tank installation, quick-connect fuel line at pump preparation (used just the pump fittings, flex line, and the first few inches of hard line which were partially flared to accept a rubber jumper to the fuel filter and the return hard-line on the chassis), as well as fabrication of a bracket to hold the remote Girling brake reservoirs. I'll post photos of the bracket as soon as it comes back from the powdercoater.
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074
Took the roadster out this morning and calibrated the Speedhut GPS Speedometer. Works like a champ. Also installed the Breeze Automotive radiator shroud and a custom VIN Plate (thanks to Ron Shofield).
Last edited by 03SC; 04-03-2011 at 04:00 PM.
MK3.1 Base Kit non-donor
Levy Stage 5.5 408W, Levy Super Alloy Plus T-5, Levy DA shocks, Wilwood 6/4, Levy Comp Bump Steer
Levy Billet Front LCA's, Levy Custom headers/sidepipes, Levy narrowed rearend, SAI mod, Northracecars 17" Team III wheels.
Build pics:
http://s239.photobucket.com/home/03SC
I added a CHMSL.
Unlit.
Lit.
Closeup.
I got it off of a 1998 S-10 Blazer at the junkyard for $2.21 including tax. My wiring harness already had a provision for a third brake light so it was quite simple to wire it in.
Last edited by CoryB; 04-04-2011 at 04:47 PM.
Just ordered Breeze's Cubby or trunk bulkhead kit today!! The DWC trunk kit is also planned.
The Stig
Some say, that I only know two facts about ducks, (both being wrong); and that if I could be bothered, I could solve the "da Vinci Code" in 47 seconds...
All I know is that I'm called "The Stig".
GTM #0081
Good news/bad news
Good
The weather cooperated so I was able to run my own car for the first time this season rather than co-driving someone else's!
Bad
The track is monitoring sound this year and I blew >100dB. Got a free pass yesterday but I'll have to quiet it down to below 100 or get booted in the future.
Jeff
Installed a set of OEM style cold air dampers (footwell ducts). Still need to finish by plumbing the 3" ductwork to the nose area and hook-up the cables, but the hard work of locating and cutting the 3" holes in the footboxes is done (whew!) - photos when the install is finalized.
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074
Had my roadster delivered today! Couldn't be happier!
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!