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Senior Member
Went from no bump steer, to having bump steer... what could have happened?
I built a MK4 complete kit with coyote and power steering in 2012. All brand new parts. I’ve never had an issue with bump steer until about 1/2 way through last summer. Yesterday I took her out for the first ride of the spring and the bump steer was almost a little scary. What would cause bump steer to get worse over time? Is alignment possibly off? Something break? Any thought on how I can track this down? This is a new one to me.
BUILT WITH MY DAD! - MK4, 5.0 Coyote, TK0 600 with Mid-Shift, Hydraulic Clutch, Power Steering, Custom Built Stainless 4:1:4 Headers by "Stainless Headers", Dual-Rollbars, 15" Wheels, Foot Box Vents and Seat Heaters, Patriot Blue with Wimbledon White Stripes Kit arrived: June 2, 2012 - Driving: May 22, 2013
BUILDING WITH MY DAD! - Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe, Gen3 Coyote, TKO 600, IRS, Hydraulic Clutch, PS, Stainless headers, 17" wheels, Race Seats, GPS Gauges Ordered 1-30-2019
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Senior Member
Make sure all couplings in the steering column are tight...I had one come just a bit loose on #8317 and so did the steering!
FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)
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Could any of your suspension bolts not been torqued, and maybe let something slip out into a new undesirable geometry? (front or rear for that matter) Maybe check alignment.
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20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Scary is not a good thing when describing steering issues.
Please let us know when you figure this out.
Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!
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Senior Member
As suggested, check all suspension components both front and rear. Front upper ball joints and tie rod ends would be my first two items to check.
Good Luck
Norm
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If the tires are also 2012, the traction may be going away due to the rubber getting hard and a little tow out. My tires are 2013 rubber with no noticeable wear (7000 miles) and getting less traction every day. I can spin tires on asphalt at will in third gear now.
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Senior Member
Thanks. I’ll be looking at all components over the next week. No changes to ride height or anything else have been made. I’ll post back what I find. Thanks for the thoughts... sort of confirmed what I was thinking. Hopefully it’s as easy as making sure everything is right
BUILT WITH MY DAD! - MK4, 5.0 Coyote, TK0 600 with Mid-Shift, Hydraulic Clutch, Power Steering, Custom Built Stainless 4:1:4 Headers by "Stainless Headers", Dual-Rollbars, 15" Wheels, Foot Box Vents and Seat Heaters, Patriot Blue with Wimbledon White Stripes Kit arrived: June 2, 2012 - Driving: May 22, 2013
BUILDING WITH MY DAD! - Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe, Gen3 Coyote, TKO 600, IRS, Hydraulic Clutch, PS, Stainless headers, 17" wheels, Race Seats, GPS Gauges Ordered 1-30-2019
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Slider
I built a MK4 complete kit with coyote and power steering in 2012. All brand new parts. IÂ’ve never had an issue with bump steer until about 1/2 way through last summer. Yesterday I took her out for the first ride of the spring and the bump steer was almost a little scary. What would cause bump steer to get worse over time? Is alignment possibly off? Something break? Any thought on how I can track this down? This is a new one to me.
If your caster angle is changing that could affect your bump steer. I'd check that everything on the front UCA's is tight and that your ride height has not significantly changed. Scott
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Seasoned Citizen
It helps if you can quantify your bump steer which requires measuring it. Just like all alignment adjustments, unless you measure them you're just going by "feel" or more accurately, perception. Perception is not nearly as reliable as quantifying your actual settings. If you have a baseline from your initial alignment it's easy to measure again to see where the change is. There are many variables to your suspension that when changed, affect other areas. Having a baseline makes troubleshooting much more easy.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build:
33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
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Check the lower control arm urethane bushings. Unlike rubber that wear progressively, urethane bushings slit and become loose suddently.
If you need to make a steering input when your brake, it’s definetly this.