Jason's 33 HotRod #1142 - Kingwood Texas

[Michael101]

Very pretty color!
with the springs, is there worry the powder coat will flake off from fatique?

I don't think so Tony but not sure. The springs that we get from QA1 or just about any others are powder coated too.

[FF33rod]

Love it. Now to protect it while you put everything around it!
Steve

[Michael101]

I was able to make the trip to Lake Charles last Friday to pick up my frame and parts. One thing that I hadn't considered before hand was storage of the powder coated parts and the amount of space that it would take. Wasn't an issue when the parts were all bare metal but I sure don't want to just pile them up now. I ended up clearing out some real estate in the attic of my garage to store some of the parts.
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[Michael101]

I have a used 8.8 IRS 3.55 ratio center that I'll be rebuilding and changing gear ratio. Looking to hear from the other 5 speed guys here on what ratio your running, but most importantly wondering if your happy with it or do you wish you'd gone with something different. Understanding that this choice is dependent on tire height and cam profile, to fit my combo I'm trying to decide between 3.73 and 3.91.

Another question for those that have installed new ring and pinion. Did you go with the Ford Performance (which is quite a bit less money) or something like Yukon or Eaton?

How about pinion yoke/flange, did you stick with the stock part or upgrade. In my case I have the stock automatic style flange. Would you upgrade?

Also, did you guys use the stock posi or upgrade to a locker or similar?

[sethmark]

The 3.55 ratio is fine for most driving assuming that you have enough torque and an appropriate size tire. I’m running a 26 1/2 in the rear and can go up to a 29 comfortably. Deeper is quicker...

Really, the only thing that matters is your final drive. I made the mistake of opting for the deeper overdrive, which puts me at about 1700 RPMs and 70. Little low. Basically a cruising speed I'm below the cam.

As for the gears, using Ford gears will certainly be better than a Yukon. I don’t know if it’s still the case but the Yukon gear used to be made in Indonesia. Finally, as far as I’m concerned, a posi is mandatory, but the locker would be hell on earth. The cars aren’t heavy enough to unlock a Detroit locker style case. A truetrac would be as aggressive as I would go....

[cob427sc]

Stay away from the Detroit locker unless you have had prior experience. They work great on the strip but around town can be quite a hand full. I built a roadster and a t-buket with Detroit lockers and though I was able to control the car without too much trouble, both cars were crashed by the new owners shortly after I sold them. Both cases were making a left hand 90 degree turn. Punched the throtle and rather than turning the car plowed straight across the intersection into objects on the other side of the street. Nobody hurt. I instructed both buyers before the sales, but as we all know, sometimes we forget.

[Michael101]

Moving at the speed of a drunken sloth lately but I am making a little progress. I have the front suspension set up using QA1’s and Tim’s bump steer kit (really nice looking stuff, glad I did that)
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True to form I decided to do the rear differential the hard way and build it myself. It’s not that hard to do but there are a few special tools required that I had to work around. I ended up building a jig that allowed me to use a readily available case spreader. I also had to buy an extra pinion bearing and machine it for use as a pinion set up bearing. All in all I ‘might’ have saved a few bucks but I just like doing things myself. Good news is that the Ford Performance parts are all very affordable. I ended up using new 3.73 gears and a new Track Lok.

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[sethmark]

Nice work. You’re on your way to a gorgeous car.

[HVACMAN]

Moving at the speed of a drunken sloth lately but I am making a little progress. I have the front suspension set up using QA1’s and Tim’s bump steer kit (really nice looking stuff, glad I did that)
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True to form I decided to do the rear differential the hard way and build it myself. It’s not that hard to do but there are a few special tools required that I had to work around. I ended up building a jig that allowed me to use a readily available case spreader. I also had to buy an extra pinion bearing and machine it for use as a pinion set up bearing. All in all I ‘might’ have saved a few bucks but I just like doing things myself. Good news is that the Ford Performance parts are all very affordable. I ended up using new 3.73 gears and a new Track Lok.

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Good job Michael. Your build looks amazing! We Texas guys like doing things ourselves. The only thing I haven't done by myself , is set the body on. A friend from work came over twice to help with that.

[Michael101]

Brake lines are done except for the reservoirs. I wish I’d thought to tackle the front lines before installing the front shocks, that was a bit tight.
I thought I had all of the parts together to finish the install but I ran across a post from Seth this morning showing his cute little braided lines going from the masters to the reservoirs....resulted in yet another Summit order and a bit of a delay...thanks Seth!
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[sethmark]

Ha! I’m here to spend your money! I will say that the brakes on the car are so good.....

[FF33rod]

....
I thought I had all of the parts together to finish the install but I ran across a post from Seth this morning showing his cute little braided lines going from the masters to the reservoirs....resulted in yet another Summit order and a bit of a delay...thanks Seth!

That will only happen another 200 times before the end of your build...

[Michael101]

Big day today!
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[shark92651]

I wish I had a build in the garage to work on, especially during this "social distancing" virus lockdown. Your hot rod is looking very cool - love the frame color! My roadster is at a shop now for paint and bodywork so I have nothing to work on or drive right now to fight the boredom. When I get it back, it will probably be too hot to drive it for awhile. I'm gonna follow this thread, I always thought the roadster with bike fenders would be what I would like to do next if I ever build another. Good luck and enjoy the build!

[AJT '33]

Love your adaptation of the wheel casters, very fancy and useful!!

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Looking great.
-Steve

[sethmark]

The all black shaved firewall is money! 3m panel bond?

[Michael101]

The all black shaved firewall is money! 3m panel bond?

I chickened out on the 100% panel bond idea Seth. I ended up counter sinking flat head screws instead and used fewer than normal with a silicone adhesive.

[sethmark]

Find it hard to believe that you chicken on anything. You do great work.

[Michael101]

Didn’t feel much like tackling anything major today so I added insulation to the firewall. This may be overkill but the older I get the less I appreciate baking in the south Texas heat. What I have is one layer of Design Engineering Floor and Tunnel Shield plus two layers of Design Engineering Under Carpet Lite. I may wait until installing the trans tunnel to complete the firewall. I used the Under Carpet on my Chevelle and have been really happy with how well it blocks heat from reaching through the floor.

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[Roger Pugh]

Very cool!! I love the red!
Roger

[Michael101]

I swear ... I’m going to get a custom license plate with ‘DIDNFIT’ on it

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[sethmark]

Welcome to the joy of interdependencies.

[FF33rod]

Yup. I redid the brake line routing twice in one part of the car ... Remember, this is fun!!! Just think how much easier the next one is going to be knowing what you know now...

[sethmark]

Yessir. And it’s ALL about attitude and expectations. Expect nothing and never be disappointed.

[Michael101]

Expect nothing and never be disappointed.

Good one Seth. I’m not really upset about this ‘DIDNFIT’, did it all myself. I must have ordered the distributor before deciding to go with the dual quad setup. So if anyone is in the market for a new (only halfway installed once) MSD 8451 let me know.

[sethmark]

Why not get a $10 phenolic spacer for the EFI?

[Michael101]

I’m about to be exhausted

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[Michael101]

This DIDNFIT theme is starting to wear thin

Looks like my super cool CVF Racing Accessory Drive is a no-go. Really disappointing because I like the look of their setup and they've been very responsive to my needs.

I started mounting the kit last night only to find that the bracket hits a frame support on the lower pass side. This part of the bracket is where the belt tensioner mounts so it would need at least three inches of clearance to work. I sent the CVF crew a message this morning but I'm not optimistic that they have a different mounting option.
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[tony]

that's an awesome bracket!

[Michael101]

I'm almost finished with the easy part of my exhaust setup, which is from the headers to the rear of the drivers compartment. The Gen II has a ton of room to route exhaust in this area compared to what I've seen on the Gen I.

I started by replacing the socket type connection at the headers with V-Band clamps. The socket isn't a bad option and is typically a bit more flexible for installation. I guess this is just another instance of my obsessing over things that probably don't matter
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I used a Summit 2.5" stainless universal cross-over kit with Summit mufflers to build the first part of the exhaust system. It'll be suspended by one exhaust support located just behind the transmission cross-member. I've ordered DEI wrap for this part of the system and will use their muffler shield material as well. I know that the DEI wrap will trap moisture so just to be safe I coated each of the weld areas with hi-temp exhaust paint, maybe useless but I had it available so why not.

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Haven't really figured out how I'm going to route through the IRS area yet. I have several 45's and a couple of 180's plus a welding machine...and plenty of time to figure it out right?

[Michael101]

Progress on the exhaust today. It’s going to be quite a bit easier than I’d thought to get through to the rear of the car.

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[McGuyver]

That is coming along very nice!

[FF33rod]

Looking great. Hey, just a thought on the front pulley system.

I put the March Performance Style Track on my 347. Worked fantastic. The belt tensioner was optional and I initially I didn't purchase it. Without it, the tension is set old school with moving the alternator or AC compressor outward to make things tighter. Even though it worked fine I got the bright idea of getting the spring loaded tensioner - found exactly the same as you, there was no darn room for it. So, what about forgetting about the tensioner and just go with manual adjustment? Alternatively, maybe have a look at the March systems

Cheers, Steve

[Michael101]

Thanks Steve. My plan was to read through your post this morning to see what you had used, you saved me some reading! Did you buy your accessories separately?

I thought about using a different style tensioner but hadn’t consider going without. I know that I’ve seen manual tensioners before somewhere. I actually have two main brackets in my possession, the one that came with my kit had a bo-bo so they sent a replacement. I should be able to experiment with the bad one and come up with a working solution.

Looking great. Hey, just a thought on the front pulley system.

I put the March Performance Style Track on my 347. Worked fantastic. The belt tensioner was optional and I initially I didn't purchase it. Without it, the tension is set old school with moving the alternator or AC compressor outward to make things tighter. Even though it worked fine I got the bright idea of getting the spring loaded tensioner - found exactly the same as you, there was no darn room for it. So, what about forgetting about the tensioner and just go with manual adjustment? Alternatively, maybe have a look at the March systems

Cheers, Steve

[FF33rod]

Yes bought the accessories separately, without knowing if they'd fit.
The key to manual tensioning with either the alternator or the compressor is having a slotted mount so the adjustment can take place. Looking at your picture I don't see any slotted holes which may make it difficult.

You can see the slotted holes in the upper corners of the mount in this picture....
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[Michael101]

I’ve made it to the rear of the car with the exhaust. I’ll have to make changes with the rear exit though. I should have mocked up the trunk aluminum before finishing the rear part but it was in the garage attic and somehow getting it down seemed to difficult at the time...now that seems dumb

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[Michael101]

I started working on my CVF accessory drive today. I had to remove a part of the main bracket where the belt tensioner mounted to make it fit so I’ll need to fabricate a tensioner somehow.

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[cob427sc]

It looks like your exhaust terminates inside the trunk area at this point? Your correct in that I believe you need to fabricate the remaining exhaust once the trunk aluminum panels are installed.

[Michael101]

Working on the trans tunnel a bit today. It wold have been fine as it comes from FF but I decided to modify it to get a little more foot room. I’ll pick up about an inch on the driver side and about two on the pass side. Doesn’t seem like much but I think it’s worth the effort. Doing this presents a bit of a challenge around the floor and firewall. With this narrower set up I’ll need to add some support material to which I can secure the tunnel flanged surfaces.

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