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Thread: Alaskan '35 Truck with Coyote

  1. #1
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    Alaskan '35 Truck with Coyote

    Hi all! I have been lurking on this forum for years, wanting to build a roadster, but was resigned to building a hot rod because of my height (6'6"). I have sat in a few completed FFR cars over the years and was frustrated by the fit, and didn't "love" the hot rod enough to commit to it. When the truck kit was announced I literally lost sleep over it. I live in Alaska and I wasn't sure if I would fit or not, but I knew that if I did fit I would build one. It is beautiful. My wife gave me a thumbs up (do not overlook this very important step), I am fortunate enough to have the money and time to do it, and I flew down to Boston to visit the factory and see for myself if I could fit in the truck. The only truck there at the time was the brown truck, which was the very first prototype. I fit, but it was a little tight. Doable though, but I'd have to give up the clutch pedal for better drivability. Dave and the crew reassured me that the newer chassis has even more room and eliminated the crossbar behind the seat which opened it up even more. I pulled the trigger. I ordered a kit with a ready date of 9/14/19. Note, they actually said it could be done about 3 weeks after I put in my order but I didn't have my $$$ together for sure so I opted to push it back a month. Since I am up in Alaska I have to crate it and ship it through a number of different companies to get it up here. I can't do Stewart Transport unfortunately.

    Here is the summary of my order:

    '35 Truck Gen II Kit
    Satin Black Powdercoat
    Coyote Mounts
    Black Vinyl Bench (I'm planning some custom leather down the road)
    Deluxe Grille (no hood or sides or fenders)
    3 link rear suspension
    Platinum gauges
    Sound insulation kit
    EFI in tank fuel system
    Electric steering
    Hot Rod A/C Kit
    Coyote installation parts
    Stake Bed Components
    Wilwood Brakes front and rear
    Aluminum interior handles
    Koni double adjustable shocks
    8.8 Rear end
    Paintable tilt column
    Extra windshield glass (our roads are hard on windshields)
    Crated

    Mike Forte is putting together a package with the Gen3 Coyote (no more Gen2 motors left!) with an AOD for me. I haven't put in the order on that though, I have to wait for the dust to settle on the truck before I mention that it didn't technically come with an engine/trans. If everything goes well, I'm hoping to have the motor going in around Christmas when my dad will be visiting for a couple of weeks.

    I am fairly mechanically minded, but I have never taken on a project this big before. I am a junkie for big complicated projects though and I look at this as an excellent way to learn about every aspect of a vehicle. I also have a great team of mechanic buddies who can help fill in what I am lacking in knowledge. My last project was also ambitious, as I spent the last 3 years building our entire house from foundation to shingles on my own. House is done (hence the happy wife part) including a dedicated 40' shop for projects like this, and I am ready to take on my next project. Its gonna be a ripper. I'm going to go with matte black chassis and components with a body color of Sting Gray. It's a love/hate color, but I REALLY love it. Contemplating powder coating all of the aluminum panels matte black, but I need to see one in person again to see which panels will be visible with my own eyes.

    A couple of questions:

    Does the fitment of the Gen3 coyote match the Gen2 or should I expect some additional headaches?
    Does anyone have a list of the aluminum panels that are visible from the outside that would need powder coating?
    How much trimming should I expect to do on the aluminum panels on the truck kit? Everything I have read is about the hotrod and all of the headaches guys have getting the body level and straight without contacting any of the panels.
    Does anyone want to come up to Alaska and help? (Kidding... kind of.)

    I look forward to working through the build with everyone on this community. I don't have any builds/builders nearby so I will be leaning on you guys a lot. Happy trails!

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  3. #2

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    Since you're using a coyote and an automatic, you should consider a 6 speed 6R80 transmission. A little bigger than an AOD, but a much better transmission.

    https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-per...k/p/M9000PMCM/

    Where are you at in Alaska? It's a big place.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42
    FFR MII: Dart 427W, Momar 8 stack EFI, Tremeac TKO, IRS, Red with Ghost Flames, 600'ish HP.
    -- Gone, but never forgotten
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
    www.RacingTheExocet.com

  4. #3
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    Also tall with an interest in the truck. I look forward to following along. Thanks in advance for posting your build.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    Since you're using a coyote and an automatic, you should consider a 6 speed 6R80 transmission. A little bigger than an AOD, but a much better transmission.

    https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-per...k/p/M9000PMCM/
    Thanks for the tip. I’m still doing my homework on AT options. I’m in Anchorage.
    Last edited by Alaskan; 08-17-2019 at 11:16 PM.

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    I’m hearing from FFR that they are still “sorting out the details” in fitting the GenIII Coyote in the hot rod or truck kits. Does anyone have any information on how much difference there is in terms of installing the GenIII vs GenII?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan View Post
    I’m hearing from FFR that they are still “sorting out the details” in fitting the GenIII Coyote in the hot rod or truck kits. Does anyone have any information on how much difference there is in terms of installing the GenIII vs GenII?

    My understanding is the fuel rail is long and has a funky fitting on it . this makes a challenge at the firewall. Its NOT a showstopper. FFR has a Gen III in the Blue hot rod with the 32 nose.

    Otherwise wiring is different.But I am told easier, fuel system is different, but not a problem
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    The truck arrives on the ship this Sunday, and it will take a day or two for it to be offloaded and ready for me to pick up the crate. I have had a lot of time waiting for it to think about paint and color schemes, and my body/paint guy actually has time to get started almost right away. (one of the ONLY benefits of building a truck in the middle of nowhere is that there is nobody in line to get a paint job). I'm going to hold off until I go to SEMA next month to make sure I don't see any colors that knock me out, but after that I'm pretty much ready to go.

    My question is, what should I get done with the body on the chassis before I fit everything up and remove it for the body/paint guy to get started?

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    I’m getting ready to set in a 2015 Coyote and 6r80 transmission tomorrow. I understand, according to the build manual, that there is no room behind the block for bolts excessively sticking out. so that’s a little bit of a challenge when using the lift point behind the right rear head. I have an idea of what I’m going to do to get around this issue. I’ll let you know how it goes.

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    Picture1.png

    Today is the day! I don't want to hear any of you whining about your $1k-$2k Stewart Transportation bill... it cost me an arm and a leg to get this bad boy home.

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    Ouch, even McDonalds has the disclaimer “offer not valid in AK or HI”. That had to have been pricey. No complaining from the 48.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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    I used them and then cut the bolt off. It worked great. I purchased a flat lifting plate from Macs Tie down in case I need to remove again. Have to remove the intake.

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    The 6R80 would be a good choice as that is what is in the Mustangs and F150s. Ford Performance has a controls pack that integrates the control of the 6R80 transmission with that of the Coyote. Also consider, Lokar has a sport shifter for the 6R80 that should allow the paddle shift function to be performed by the sport shifter. That is the route I am taking with my Mustang restomod build.

    I need to keep an eye on the room to remove the lifting bracket bolts on the PS. I hope I will have the room to remove them to get the lifting bracket off. However that is not the only space issue, the CMCV valves on the back of the intake present a challenge when removing and installing the engine. I have removed the actuators for now, but will remove the intake for the final install.

    I find I am using the FF forums more to get information about 6R80 installs as there is more interest here than on the vintage mustang forum.

    You might consider buying a transmission at salvage to save a few bucks. I was lucky and bought an 2017 GT at auction to source my engine, transmission, and accessory drive from a donor vehicle. I would suggest you consider this route, but you already purchased the engine through Forte. Although the 2nd Gen Coyote is no longer manufactured, I believe there are vendors out there that still have inventory. Good luck, I will be interested in seeing your build progress.

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    1AC410EA-D7D6-45C3-A60A-9C322BE1230E.jpg5F2256CF-B66E-4D21-AF2D-185CA959EDDE.jpg845420BD-6DD0-40D2-A58D-6CB4956A1088.jpg845420BD-6DD0-40D2-A58D-6CB4956A1088.jpgAnd we’re off. Chassis number is 0079. Most of the inventory is done, the body is off, and I’ve got the rear end in along with the fuel tank. Seems like a few more threads on the bolts to catch the fuel tank straps would have made that a lot easier, but only after I finished it did I remember that I had read that advice in another thread. Overall I’m really happy with the quality of the parts and the instructions. I’m going to tackle the powder coating of the unpainted parts tomorrow. I know I have read that the ball joints were tack welded in to the front suspension parts, but the welds are a lot more substantial than tack welds and I’m thinking twice about trying to grind them out to push out the ball joints. I may try to clean the grease out with solvent and see how clean I can get them before taping them off and coating the parts with the ball joints in.
    Last edited by Alaskan; 10-15-2019 at 12:53 AM.

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    FFR told me to clean out ball joints with brake clean then powder coat. I do not suggest removing the welds. Just my 2-cents worth.

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    I ended up soaking them in laquer thinner overnight which would have worked great except it’s already below freezing and the grease congealed before it melted away. A little compressed air in the grease zirc hole did the trick after a few baths in the thinner. The powder coater didn’t say anything so I guess it’s good enough. I did booger up one of the boots when I took it off, does anyone know a part number or what the ball joints are off of?

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    What did you end up going with for tires and wheels?

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    I actually got a set of the 17” forged sunburst wheels that are offered on the 25th anniversary roadster. The pictures don’t do them justice, they are beautiful.

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    Those are some really nice looking wheels. Looking forward to seeing how they look on the truck.

  20. #19
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    Just a quick note about customer service with Factory Five- When the crate arrived I opened it up and the wheels had gotten loose and slid around in the crate. All four of the wheels were very slightly damaged with very minor scratches. I reached out to Factory Five and suggested that I could get them re-powder coated if they would cover the cost, and they said it was unnecessary and that they would FedEx me a whole new set of wheels. I'm blown away. These guys really do have amazing customer service.

    Another note, one of the wheels dinged up the frame just a tiny bit. I wasn't going to have them replace the frame obviously, but unfortunately it was in a spot that is going to be the most visible right along the main tube beside the engine. I went to the auto paint shop and asked them what my options were for matching the powder coat satin black and he turned me on to a 2 part rattle can product called 2K that comes in a "hot rod satin black" color. It is spot on. I ended up painting my firewall with the same stuff after cleaning thoroughly and applying a coat of acid etch primer, after I saw how well it went down. I'll try to dig up the name brand of the paint, but I can see needing an extra can or two as things progress.

    Be careful getting into things out of order in the manual. I got excited and put the floor in without realizing that you cannot get the footwell panels below the firewall in without putting them in first. Luckily the 5200 adhesive sets up slowly and I was able to drill out a few rivets and pull the floor back enough to get it in. It would have been much easier though to do it in the right order. Speaking of 5200, the stuff is great and I have used it on lots of other projects but it can be messy. If you can, go to WestMarine and get the black stuff instead of white. It oozes out around the edges and is nearly impossible to clean up without acetone and lots of rags. Wear gloves, and do your best to not slop it around. One tube for each side on the bottom of the foam, and one tube for each side on the top does it perfectly.

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    Alaskan,

    Please post picture of the 2 part rattle can paint that matches.

    Zach

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    thanks

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    It’s coming along! I’ve kind of hit a road block until I get the parts back from powder coating and an engine/trans to work around. The only FFR parts I had on back order are the headlights and coolant overflow tank. What does everyone think of the location for my trans cooler? I think it should get enough airflow back there, but is also tucked up nicely between the bed and fuel tank.

    I’ve been reluctant to talk about customer service until a few other things were worked out... I mentioned that my wheels and tires got loose (I ordered the forged 2 piece sunburst wheels that come on the 25th anniversary car) and got scuffed up just a tiny bit. I proposed getting them powder coated up here in AK if they would cover the cost as the wheels were pretty darn expensive, and shipping is nuts from here. FFR wouldn’t have it, and they insisted on sending 4 brand new wheels FedEx at no cost. Now I’ll read up to a bonehead mistake on my end- AFTER painting and installing the steering column I realized that the column they shipped was the fixed column and not the tilt column that I ordered. I proposed buying the tilt column if they would credit me the difference in what I paid, and they again insisted on just sending me the correct column at no cost. I’m 100% satisfied.

    Speaking of POL items, after my complete inventory I am missing one of the engine mount brackets, and a set of door hinges. Not too shabby.3487B089-101A-4466-B5BE-6211EC00A5CB.jpg
    Last edited by Alaskan; 10-27-2019 at 06:34 PM.

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  26. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan View Post
    What does everyone think of the location for my trans cooler?
    I don't think that's going to work well. That would end up being somewhat of a dead zone. I would make a top and bottom cover that would act like air ducts. In from the front at the bottom. Up through the core. And out the back of the car. If there's room, I would also add a fan.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42
    FFR MII: Dart 427W, Momar 8 stack EFI, Tremeac TKO, IRS, Red with Ghost Flames, 600'ish HP.
    -- Gone, but never forgotten
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
    www.RacingTheExocet.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    I don't think that's going to work well. That would end up being somewhat of a dead zone. I would make a top and bottom cover that would act like air ducts. In from the front at the bottom. Up through the core. And out the back of the car. If there's room, I would also add a fan.
    That cooler does have a fan, and you can't see it in the pic but there are a few inches above and below it for circulation. I'm still not 100% sold on the location either, but I have some unique circumstances as I'm planning on ice racing the truck and driving in snow so I wanted it to be fairly protected. I'll play around with some ducting to see what I can do to get air moving towards it.

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    Ice racing?!

    That sounds like it will be a ton of fun in the truck!!
    Some buddies of mine used to do a lot of it years ago.

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    Just a quick post to show off the FFR sunburst forged aluminum wheels. These are the wheels that are on the 25th anniversary roadster, but they made a set available to me for the truck and I think they look great. 7F49835E-7651-4C1D-8490-5653082F9CD2.jpgD97B282E-A4CE-44A4-9E1D-32C76D834B66.jpg

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    The instructions are pretty vague when it comes to the cab and bed installation. I assume I should cut the lip back on the back of the cab where it goes down to the frame so the bed can clear it. Should I cut it back just in front of where the sheet for the bed floor meets up so the front of the bed can slide between?506E743F-E009-469A-876D-BF48AF5CF48C.jpeg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan View Post
    The instructions are pretty vague when it comes to the cab and bed installation. I assume I should cut the lip back on the back of the cab where it goes down to the frame so the bed can clear it. Should I cut it back just in front of where the sheet for the bed floor meets up so the front of the bed can slide between?506E743F-E009-469A-876D-BF48AF5CF48C.jpeg
    I trimmed mine 1/2 inch from back of cab. Just took a block of 1/2" ply to use as a guide against the cab. It worked out perfect for bed to cab gap and looks clean down the sides as well. I also had to trim some of the glass under the bed sides up front to get it to fit how I wanted against the cab.

  32. #30
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    Sounds good. How did you attach the front of the bed to the floor of the bed, 3/16” rivets? How did you attach the bed floor to the frame? Also rivets?
    FFR Hot Rod Truck #79
    Gen III Coyote with 6R80 A/T

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan View Post
    Sounds good. How did you attach the front of the bed to the floor of the bed, 3/16” rivets? How did you attach the bed floor to the frame? Also rivets?
    I wanted to have the bed removable. I welded the front piece to the bottom panel. Then drilled and tapped holes down both sides and down the middle. Will use button head screws that I will recess for on the bed wood. There are some pictures on my build thread.

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    Big development- After getting a good look at the Joey Logano FFR truck at SEMA today I noticed something funny. They cut the cab and extended it 4” or so. It makes use of all of the dead space behind the seat, and you just have to make up for it by shortening the bed. Now I gotta go home and draw a big line around the cab all the way around... I think I’m going for it. It seems doable and will really open up the cab for legroom. C6007927-0578-4C68-98A4-DF1979D58C4F.jpg
    FFR Hot Rod Truck #79
    Gen III Coyote with 6R80 A/T

  35. #33
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    Thanks for pointing that out. I figured someone would be stretching the cab sooner or later. I had figured right down the middle, doors and all. That section behind the door looks good and more practical.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan View Post
    Big development- After getting a good look at the Joey Logano FFR truck at SEMA today I noticed something funny. They cut the cab and extended it 4” or so. It makes use of all of the dead space behind the seat, and you just have to make up for it by shortening the bed. Now I gotta go home and draw a big line around the cab all the way around... I think I’m going for it. It seems doable and will really open up the cab for legroom. C6007927-0578-4C68-98A4-DF1979D58C4F.jpg
    Man that's a great idea. I wish I would have thought about it when I had the cab cut down the middle to extend to the A pillars Post some pictures when you start hacking it up And ignore that sinking feeling in your gut when your half way through it!

  37. #35
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    That’s a great idea!!! I wish I could of thought of that or known about it earlier. My cab and doors will be painted within the next week or so then all my paint work will be finished.
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan View Post
    Big development- After getting a good look at the Joey Logano FFR truck at SEMA today I noticed something funny. They cut the cab and extended it 4” or so. It makes use of all of the dead space behind the seat, and you just have to make up for it by shortening the bed. Now I gotta go home and draw a big line around the cab all the way around... I think I’m going for it. It seems doable and will really open up the cab for legroom. C6007927-0578-4C68-98A4-DF1979D58C4F.jpg
    Your profile reads like mine. Just built my home. I'm 6'3". Love the truck build idea. Wondering...you said when you looked at the rig originally, the FFR guy said they were redesigning something to make the fit for taller people better when you went to the factory before buying. Now you say you want to extend the cab, is that necessary?
    Do you need a welding setup to build this? What tools are required?
    I live in Chicago, built my house, have a three car garage (with two cars in it). Can I build this in that space? I'm thinking it would require two car bays, one for building, and one for parts.

  39. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by vckiter View Post
    I live in Chicago, built my house, have a three car garage (with two cars in it). Can I build this in that space? I'm thinking it would require two car bays, one for building, and one for parts.
    I built 4 kit cars in my two car garage, with my wife's car on her side (most of the time). One car I built under a lift with the Cobra on top.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42
    FFR MII: Dart 427W, Momar 8 stack EFI, Tremeac TKO, IRS, Red with Ghost Flames, 600'ish HP.
    -- Gone, but never forgotten
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
    www.RacingTheExocet.com

  40. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    I built 4 kit cars in my two car garage, with my wife's car on her side (most of the time). One car I built under a lift with the Cobra on top.
    I guess it can be done then. I have no idea how much space is needed to unload the big box and get things inside. I was thinking perhaps to order in the spring, then leave her car outside during the late spring and summer, giving me two bays if she's cool with that. She leaves her car outside parked on the street at the school she works at, and it's already been swiped by a couple snow plows smashing both side view mirrors, with a dent in the back, so I'm thinking that's the car to leave outside LOL

    Does one need a pickup truck to do this build? Man, I need to start looking around for paint shops and stuff to see where I can take things if I need to.

  41. #39

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    Feb 2011
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    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    967
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    Quote Originally Posted by vckiter View Post
    Does one need a pickup truck to do this build? Man, I need to start looking around for paint shops and stuff to see where I can take things if I need to.
    You might need access to one. If you plan it right, you won't need to buy one.

    You'll need to get an engine and transmission in your garage. But you can have it shipped on a palate and delivered to your door.

    Once the car is built and ready for paint, you could rent a trailer and truck. Or call a towing company and have it flat bedded. Some people drive it in gel coat for a while, then take it to the paint shop.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42
    FFR MII: Dart 427W, Momar 8 stack EFI, Tremeac TKO, IRS, Red with Ghost Flames, 600'ish HP.
    -- Gone, but never forgotten
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
    www.RacingTheExocet.com

  42. #40
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    7
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    HD rents trucks for $20 for 90 mins and there's a trailer rental place near me. Do I need a welder? I have all kinds of tools to build a house, just not metalworking tools.

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