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Thread: Bob the builder: Coyote installed

  1. #1
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    Bob the builder: Coyote installed

    Kids on our street gave me the above name because I was always working in the garage.

    I first posted on the Roadster page as Im joining the club Figured I should move over here and do some updates.
    Kit was ready to ship July 27th, she was delivered two weeks later on August 8th.
    My configuration is , IRS, powder coated, cut outs, Coyote, leather seats. blank dash, Power steering, heater, 17 halibrands, sun visors and wind wings.

    Front suspension installed and rack centered per Karlos. I need to remove the shocks and check the rebound damping. All rivet holes drilled for front sheet metal.
    Front Driver.jpg
    58837496093__D58FFA49-5567-4EB9-9D62-7BFDAB211AC5.JPG

    Optional jungle gym for grand kids
    Jungle gym.jpg

    IRS installed, waiting for back ordered calipers. That pumpkin is heavy and awkward.
    IRS Pass.jpg

    I was never warned by forum members on how many band aids I would need.

    As she sits today.
    Full picture.jpg

  2. #2
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    check your upper "A" arm to hub bolts on the IRS, I think you have the spacer on the wrong side.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  3. #3
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    Is this wrong?

    spacer.jpg

  4. #4
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    Mocked up the Russ Thompson drop trunk today. The instructions are clear and Im very happy with the quality of his products.

    IMG_1610.jpg

    Matting corners are marked with matching alpha charters making it easy for dummies (me) to not goof it up.

    IMG_1611.jpg

    All mocked up, I had to do a second cut around the entire perimeter of the drop trunk to make the transition between the vertical trunk wall and existing trunk deck match better.
    IMG_1615.jpg

  5. #5
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    Ordered my Gen 2 Coyote, TKO 600, scatter shield, hydraulic clutch, SS headers with cats, drive shaft safety loop and heated seat inserts from Mike Forte today. It sound like the Gen 2’s are getting harder and harder to find. Mike is a great guy to work with.
    I also dropped off my engine compartment panels for powder coating yesterday.

  6. #6
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    I had my engine compartment powder coated the wrong color. I wanted a gun metal gray in came out a dark gray with a green tone. I think my path forward will be scuff up the panels and paint with a rattle can, a little depressed, oh well, push forward. Yes, it was me that picked the wrong color.
    IMG_1910.jpg
    IMG_1908.jpg

  7. #7
    Senior Member MSumners's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobm488 View Post
    Is this wrong?

    spacer.jpg
    Cant completely tell from the picture but seems ok, others should chime in. This is what mine looked like. Thread spacing should be approximately equal at the stated arm length for adjustability later as well.
    Last edited by MSumners; 09-28-2019 at 11:59 AM.
    Complete kit. Delivered 3/19.
    Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...4-Build-Thread
    Dart 347 with FiTech 600 from Forte. TKO600. PS. IRS. Wilwoods.
    Forte hydraulic clutch, mech throttle.
    Multiple breeze components: RT turn signal and drop trunk.
    ReplicaParts: Radiator aluminum, under dash panel, multiple different trim rings.

  8. #8
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobm488 View Post
    Is this wrong?

    spacer.jpg
    That looks like the way I did mine, which doesn't necessarily mean its correct, lol. But what do you mean by "wrong"?
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Eaton View Post
    That looks like the way I did mine, which doesn't necessarily mean its correct, lol. But what do you mean by "wrong"?
    David Williamson said.
    "check your upper "A" arm to hub bolts on the IRS, I think you have the spacer on the wrong side.
    David W"

  10. #10
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    The photo you showed is the upper control arm to spindle and the spacer looks correct to me.
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  11. #11
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    A few progress photos.
    Installed a triple reservoir, this thing is massive.

    Bracket made from old piece of angle
    Res Bracket.jpg

    Res.jpg

    Fabricated upper side panels for the trunk, easier and a lot messier than I thought. I traced the outside trunk panel onto a piece of aluminum, then added three tabs that would later be bent to sit on top of the trunk steel. After getting the shape, there was a lot of trimming and test fitting to miss the seat belt bracket and roll bar.

    trunk side wall pat.jpg

    Trunk layout.jpg

    Trunk panel Driver.jpg

    Trunk panel Pass.jpg

  12. #12
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    Hey Bob. The upper trunk panels look great!
    MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes

  13. #13
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    Looking good! good luck with the rest of the build!

  14. #14
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    Coyote showed up from Forte the other day, its huge. Now the hard work begins.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bobm488; 10-17-2019 at 10:47 AM.

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  16. #15
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    Looking good Bob. Not the hard work. The fun work!
    MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes

  17. #16
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    That Gen 2 sure looks better than the Gen 3!

  18. #17
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    Coyote will be awsome in that car. Keep it going.

  19. #18
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    Sweet new stuff. Looking forward to the coyote gen2 install.

  20. #19
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    Coyote went in pretty easy. Unfortunately I broke the driver side exhaust gasket. Of course not even Ford keeps them in stock. Engine is sitting on the mounts but not tightened down. I dont think I should do anything else on the motor until I know I can bolt the header in without having to jack the motor up or move forward to secure all the header bolts. Sorry for the rotated photos.
    Ready for eng install.jpg
    IMG_0180.jpg
    IMG_0149.jpg
    Engine in 3.jpg

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  22. #20
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    Congrats Bob! Big day for you. Your build is looking good.
    MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes

  23. #21
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    May be something you want to do, or not. I think Jeff K sometimes puts a washer between the engine block and drivers side motor mount. This adds some clearance in the tight areas, ie foot box, valve cover, headers, etc.
    I just did this after the engine and headers are on. Might be easier now for you, if desired.
    It also makes the dipstick a little more accessible.

    One other thing, I have the same reservoirs, not mounted yet. I put the F5 supplied ones on.
    Now I have to change out. It looks like with the reservoirs at the rear most position, the dip stick will be almost inaccessible. I have my body on and installing hood hinges, so should be able to check clearances.
    Last edited by Railroad; 12-01-2019 at 12:34 PM.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  24. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad View Post
    May be something you want to do, or not. I think Jeff K sometimes puts a washer between the engine block and drivers side motor mount. This adds some clearance in the tight areas, ie foot box, valve cover, headers, etc.
    I just did this after the engine and headers are on. Might be easier now for you, if desired.
    It also makes the dipstick a little more accessible.

    One other thing, I have the same reservoirs, not mounted yet. I put the F5 supplied ones on.
    Now I have to change out. It looks like with the reservoirs at the rear most position, the dip stick will be almost inaccessible. I have my body on and installing hood hinges, so should be able to check clearances.
    Thanks Railroad, I escaped my decorating duties for a few minutes to visit garage to investigate the reservoir/dipstick situation. I re-installed the reservoirs and it is definably not optimal, but it does work.

    IMG_2080.jpg

    IMG_2079.jpg

    One washer/shim will make difference on the engine mount?

  25. #23
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    I put one average thickness flat washer at each bolt, between the block and motor mount. I can now slide a piece of cardboard between the foot box and all close points on the engine and headers. It is more clearance than I had and put the engine on a perfect level.

    The washer location will not compromise the motor mount. If you want to maintain surface contact area, get a fender washer.

    Check with Jeff Kleiner. It is one of his revealed tricks.
    Last edited by Railroad; 12-02-2019 at 06:24 PM.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  26. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad View Post
    I put one average thickness flat washer at each bolt, between the block and motor mount. I can now slide a piece of cardboard between the foot box and all close points on the engine and headers. It is more clearance than I had and put the engine on a perfect level.

    The washer location will not compromise the motor mount. If you want to maintain surface contact area, get a fender washer.

    Check with Jeff Kleiner. It is one of his revealed tricks.
    I'll add them tomorrow, thank you

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