Kids on our street gave me the above name because I was always working in the garage.
I first posted on the Roadster page as “ I’m joining the club” Figured I should move over here and do some updates.
Kit was ready to ship July 27th, she was delivered two weeks later on August 8th.
My configuration is , IRS, powder coated, cut outs, Coyote, leather seats. blank dash, Power steering, heater, 17” halibrands, sun visors and wind wings.
All mocked up, I had to do a second cut around the entire perimeter of the drop trunk to make the transition between the vertical trunk wall and existing trunk deck match better. IMG_1615.jpg
Ordered my Gen 2 Coyote, TKO 600, scatter shield, hydraulic clutch, SS headers with cats, drive shaft safety loop and heated seat inserts from Mike Forte today. It sound like the Gen 2’s are getting harder and harder to find. Mike is a great guy to work with.
I also dropped off my engine compartment panels for powder coating yesterday.
I had my engine compartment powder coated the wrong color. I wanted a gun metal gray in came out a dark gray with a green tone. I think my path forward will be scuff up the panels and paint with a rattle can, a little depressed, oh well, push forward. Yes, it was me that picked the wrong color. IMG_1910.jpg IMG_1908.jpg
Can’t completely tell from the picture but seems ok, others should chime in. This is what mine looked like. Thread spacing should be approximately equal at the stated arm length for adjustability later as well.
Last edited by MSumners; 09-28-2019 at 11:59 AM.
Complete kit. Delivered 3/19.
Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...4-Build-Thread
Dart 347 with FiTech 600 from Forte. TKO600. PS. IRS. Wilwoods.
Forte hydraulic clutch, mech throttle.
Multiple breeze components: RT turn signal and drop trunk.
ReplicaParts: Radiator aluminum, under dash panel, multiple different trim rings.
Fabricated upper side panels for the trunk, easier and a lot messier than I thought. I traced the outside trunk panel onto a piece of aluminum, then added three tabs that would later be bent to sit on top of the trunk steel. After getting the shape, there was a lot of trimming and test fitting to miss the seat belt bracket and roll bar.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes
Looking good Bob. Not the hard work. The fun work!
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes
Coyote went in pretty easy. Unfortunately I broke the driver side exhaust gasket. Of course not even Ford keeps them in stock. Engine is sitting on the mounts but not tightened down. I don’t think I should do anything else on the motor until I know I can bolt the header in without having to jack the motor up or move forward to secure all the header bolts. Sorry for the rotated photos. Ready for eng install.jpg IMG_0180.jpg IMG_0149.jpg Engine in 3.jpg
Congrats Bob! Big day for you. Your build is looking good.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes
May be something you want to do, or not. I think Jeff K sometimes puts a washer between the engine block and drivers side motor mount. This adds some clearance in the tight areas, ie foot box, valve cover, headers, etc.
I just did this after the engine and headers are on. Might be easier now for you, if desired.
It also makes the dipstick a little more accessible.
One other thing, I have the same reservoirs, not mounted yet. I put the F5 supplied ones on.
Now I have to change out. It looks like with the reservoirs at the rear most position, the dip stick will be almost inaccessible. I have my body on and installing hood hinges, so should be able to check clearances.
Last edited by Railroad; 12-01-2019 at 12:34 PM.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
May be something you want to do, or not. I think Jeff K sometimes puts a washer between the engine block and drivers side motor mount. This adds some clearance in the tight areas, ie foot box, valve cover, headers, etc.
I just did this after the engine and headers are on. Might be easier now for you, if desired.
It also makes the dipstick a little more accessible.
One other thing, I have the same reservoirs, not mounted yet. I put the F5 supplied ones on.
Now I have to change out. It looks like with the reservoirs at the rear most position, the dip stick will be almost inaccessible. I have my body on and installing hood hinges, so should be able to check clearances.
Thanks Railroad, I escaped my decorating duties for a few minutes to visit garage to investigate the reservoir/dipstick situation. I re-installed the reservoirs and it is definably not optimal, but it does work.
I put one average thickness flat washer at each bolt, between the block and motor mount. I can now slide a piece of cardboard between the foot box and all close points on the engine and headers. It is more clearance than I had and put the engine on a perfect level.
The washer location will not compromise the motor mount. If you want to maintain surface contact area, get a fender washer.
Check with Jeff Kleiner. It is one of his revealed tricks.
Last edited by Railroad; 12-02-2019 at 06:24 PM.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
I put one average thickness flat washer at each bolt, between the block and motor mount. I can now slide a piece of cardboard between the foot box and all close points on the engine and headers. It is more clearance than I had and put the engine on a perfect level.
The washer location will not compromise the motor mount. If you want to maintain surface contact area, get a fender washer.
Check with Jeff Kleiner. It is one of his revealed tricks.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by bobm488
