Went to my local dealer who said they don’t sell it anymore. Gave me specs of GL-5 80w-90. My local guy said to buy that in synthetic and include 1 qt of GM Synchromesh in the fill. I suppose by posting this stuff I’m encouraging the back and forth, but really would welcome insights.
Gator, does the “NS” at the end of the Redline PN mean not synthetic? Or something else?
Thanks for the input.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
does the “NS” at the end of the Redline PN mean not synthetic? Or something else?
Thanks for the input.
It means "no slip" This is for gear boxes that do not have clutch type LSD's.
I ran Red Line 75W90NS GL-5 Gear Oil in my 5MT and it was great, shifted very nice. I have 6 qts left I can sell you for a good price, new never opened. if your interested
Last edited by Hobby Racer; 04-12-2021 at 06:31 PM.
Thanks for the explanation Hobby. I’m interested in the Redline. PM me with your price, please. My zip code is 87124.
StiPWRD, a replacement transmission is definitely a possibility. At the moment, I’m waiting for a replacement gear set from Rob T to see if I can drop it in to my case. If that works, then I think we’ll be done. If not, I’ll be looking for other solutions.
Jim, no progress on the trans yet. Lots of clean up of electrical wiring, though. Pics soon.
I swapped in Rob T's complete main shaft assembly along with his driven gear shaft, but retained the old pinion shaft because his pinion gear was broken. The differential is also from our old gear set. Transmission markup.jpg
We did not move the differential side retainers during disassembly - these are the adjusters in the case halves. I presume since the same differential is being used, we don't need to measure or adjust backlash on the diff. Anybody know if this is true?
I am a bit concerned that there may be another backlash adjustment I'm missing. In the manual, the only adjustment for the pinion shaft is the thrust bearing preload. I believe this is obviated by the use of the double-splined center differential lockout adapter from FFR. Though, honestly I'm not sure. I'd appreciate any help you all can offer.
You should not have to adjust the pinion backlash as it has not changed. There is another backlash adjustment on the pinion shaft, the stack of thin shims between 5th gear and the case bearing but it should not need changes. I did not need to change mine when I swapped some gears in my 5MT.
You have put enough effort into this - I'd suggest you consider checking the pinion backlash anyway. If for nothing more than (a) bragging rights to yourself that you did it (b) not relying on whether it was all that correct before you came along (3) it will not seem like all that much of a hassle once it is half done and for that matter all done (4) now you are a pro (or closer).
I rather dreaded it thinking it was above my pay grade, then did it (and I had about 3 or 4 adjustment cycles - open the case, adjust it, close the case and check it) and really felt like a hot shot when I was done. Transmissions like toasters, are complicated and MUST be serviced by professionals, not hackers. But if you can follow instructions and do careful work maybe you can become a pro instead of a hacker.
In my case my pinion and crown were replaced by me (so had to check it) due to a rather large bit of other gear tooth that had gotten between the two before I inherited the trans.
I hear you, Art. And I'm thinking I may follow your suggestion and just do it myself. The problem for me is that I'm not sure which set of instructions to follow for setting the driven/pinion shaft in its proper fore/aft position. Hindsight did me a huge favor in showing how to set the left/right position and preload on the differential here https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ions-with-pics.
But I've looked through the FSM for the 06 donor and can't find anything more about the driven/pinion shaft aside from the "thrust bearing preload" I mention in a post above. Am I missing something there, or is that shaft just fine where it is and the diff procedure handles all the backlash adjustment?
OK. I re-read the whole FSM portion on the transmission today and see that I can perform the backlash setting on the differential per Hindsight's guidance, including measuring with the dial gauge. After that, I can perform the hypoid gear tooth contact test to confirm or correct the pinion shaft shim thickness. Would appreciate the double check. Would also like to hear what others have used as a gear contact witness in place of the FSM's "red lead."
Glad you found it, knew it had to be in there. I used Permatex "Prussian Blue" in tube paste. Item# 80038. Napa or Autozone, either or both have it, don't recall which.
Can we install this aluminum panel now, or do we need to wait until the hardtop is in place so we can snug it up properly?
I'm building the S but the wind shield cowl is very similar underneath to the coupe. I'd suggest waiting until you have the roof in place. You may either have to trim that sheet later or end up with a gap.
I would wait until the windshield trim is in. If you're anxious, just do a rivet on each end, but wait to drill the rest of the rivet holes until you have the windshield trim installed.
Thanks for the several responses. Very helpful.
I’ll wait to secure it with two rivets (probably Clecos, tbh) until after we spend some time at our local track ironing some things out. We won’t tie it down completely until we get the hardtop aligned properly.
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