Arizona Hot Rod

[rapidray]

Hello to all! We received our 33 Hot Rod kit on the 14th and have spent approx. 5 days on the build. We have a well equipped shop and I have done the majority of the assembly by myself. I have been a automotive/airplane mechanic for over 40 years and built a all steel 32 Ford sedan years ago. I have found the manual to be helpful and thanks to you all I have only used it as a guide. I have encountered numerous problems but nothing that I have found to be catastrophic so far. This is the progress I have made so far. 20191219_123601.jpg20191223_131053.jpg20191223_100712.jpg

[rapidray]

Sorry for the lousy post hopefully I will get better. Let me also say that working with the guys and gals at Factory Five including the delivery guy has been nothing short of fantastic! Cheers Ray

[wallace18]

Looks like you are making great progress!

[FF33rod]

Welcome, congrats on the great start. You're moving quickly...

So I guess you're another Gen2 guy, maybe you can post your build details - what options you went for and other relevant details, any thoughts on special features to "make it your own"?

Another question - before you get too far have you thought about doing some of the body work sooner than later?

Steve

[Gordon Levy]

Where are you located? We have a coupe 33's around here as well as a host of other cars.

[rapidray]

Thank you for all of your responses. The kit is a gen 2 with a 32 nose and 3 link rear, I am running a mild 6.0 LS with a 4L60E trans. My goal is to build a fair weather fun car without all of the bells and whistles. I am not building a race car just something simple and fun and above all dependable. I have run into numerous assembly problems such as the steering rack bolt holes do not line up with the supplied bracket and right now I am fighting with the pinon angle but I will figure it out eventually. I worked in a body shop for 12 years so am familiar with the process, I just want to get everything mocked up before I started fitting panels and adjusting gaps. I am sure I will have the body on and off numerous times. We are located in Tucson. I am keeping an open mind with the build and am sure I will change directions several times, but hey isn't this supposed to be fun! Cheers Ray

[Straversi]

Welcome aboard. Thanks for including us. We all miss the build process as soon as we finish so it’s fun to follow along with others. Keep sending photos and having fun.
-Steve

[NAZ]

Ray, you're making fast work of your build and with your auto body experience I expect that won't slow you down like many of us when we got to that part of the build.

If you have that thing on the road by MAR, bring it out to your hometown strip. I'll be at the Arizona Shootout at Tucson Dragway in MAR, stop by and say hello. Not sure of the date yet, last year was on the 19th. Mine will likely be the only FFR 33HR out there.

[rapidray]

015.jpg021 (2).jpgWell another day. Things went relatively smooth today, got the front brakes installed and the rear suspension setup including the pinion angle. Also received the correct trans mount so will install next week. Will have to move fuse box from current location in order to install the drive by wire gas pedal. I am sure it is going to require the fabrication of a mount to equal the pedals correctly. Cheers Ray

[rapidray]

20200102_094106.jpgHappy New Year all! Worked a few hours today. Ran into problems with the pinion angle discovered that the driveshaft hit the cross member with the pinion angle set to the correct angle. Thought of raising the rear transmission mount but then the exhaust hit the frame. Also the pinion angle rod was adjusted all the way out with 3 threads engaged in the tube. Decided to lengthen the adjustment rod 2" and set the angle. After all that the driveshaft clears the frame rail by about an 1/8 of an inch when unloaded and the exhaust is also good (plenty of clearance when loaded). Also had to remove the material on the rear shock mount on the Moser rear end for the springs to clear. Noticed that the radiator supplied with the kit for the 32 nose has no transmission cooler or bung for the fan sensor. Has anyone else run into this with the Gen 2 or did I just get the wrong radiator. I did use the Tremec angle finder for the final adjustment with the lower control arms leveled. I also measured the rear to front wheelbase in an X to make sure the car would track correctly when done. Cheers Ray

[peterh226]

Sounds familiar. I put limiter straps so the driveshaft does not hit when raising the chassis. Still working on the ride height/pinion angle/coil clearance. I'm a bit concerned about the thread engagement on the Pinion upper link as well.

[rapidray]

Peter, I thought about the limiter straps but did not like the idea. I lengthened the upper link by cutting it in the middle and then welding a section in. I then inserted the whole rod in another tube and welded it again. Trust me it is stout! I was uncomfortable with the supplied tube as it seemed too thin. My supplied adjustment tube was 12" and I added approximately 2" and it worked perfect. I now have 3/4 of the heim joint in the tube. (You never want less than half of the heim joint threads engaged, just a tidbit from my aircraft days) Ray

[cob427sc]

You have the same radiator as me, and I was suprised there was not transmission cooler tank or temp sensor bung. I purchased a trans cooler from Summit for around $30 which came with all the brackets to mount in front of the radiator. I haven't decided where to locate the mp sensor yet, but in a previous roadster build back in 98 I remember buying a fitting that was installed in the radiator hose adjacent to the radiator.

[peterh226]

With my setup (Tremec) the Driveshaft will hit the frame when I jack up the frame without the straps. So, I really didn't have much choice.

I'll check on the upper tube. I agree it seems a bit too short.

[sethmark]

The limit strap thing really is unnecessary.

Just put the shocks in the top hole. That 1 inch is just enough. I have about 100 miles on my car and it goes on the rack regularly. The driveshaft does not hit the frame with the shocks in the top hole.

[rapidray]

Looked at the car today and wow how am I going to build a lower radiator hose. I installed the horns according to the manual and there is no way I will have room for the lower radiator hose so removed the horns and will find another place to put them but the hose is still a nightmare. I refuse to run the lower rad hose below the frame. I also purchased the rear end from FFR but did not get any rear caliper brackets. I have the calipers, rotors, pads and planned on purchasing the lines and all from a different supplier. I am in need of the 2 brackets per side (the ones pictured in the FFR rear brake instructions). Anyone know where I can purchase them? I called Moser but they do not sell them. Thanks Ray

[sethmark]

Check my thread.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post380539

I snaked the lower radiator hose through the coil overs. Bent a piece of stainless pipe and
used 2 silicon 90s.


not the best picture but I’m not near the car.

[rapidray]

Sethmark, I really like the way you built those hoses and had followed your posts before, you are really doing a great job and we both used a Cadillac as a donor. I like the way you built the steam hose also. I just ran the tubes to the throttle body and intended to drill and tap a bleeder in it if I have problem. I use a vacuum filler for radiator servicing here at the shop and that will usually eliminate any bubbles in the system so don't know if the bleeder is necessary. Thanks for the reply! Ray

[sethmark]

I tried to emulate the relative height of the steam port as if it were still in the truck. Bleeding was a nonissue. I know the LS can be finicky, but I had one burp after startup out of the filler and it runs 180-195. I love this motor in the car.

[RBBJ 32 HOTROD]

As far as the pinion angle, I ended up using on of the truck holes for the lower control arms. I have a SBC with a 700r4 transmission. But now I have received the new adjustable upper control arms but still need to install, then I will return the lowers to their original holes. Have you received your new upper control arms?

[rapidray]

True the LS steam ports are a controversial subject! Some guys block them off and some add another to the rear of the intake all depends who you talk too. Also a sore subject when you talk about blocking the heater hose outlets I connected one to the other on my build as I am not running a heater. I don't anticipate a problem with the setup I am using and will address if the time comes. On the rear control arm subject I used the upper lower control arm bolt hole and did not even bother FFR with the upper adjustment rod (however I cant imagine that other people have not run into this problem) just built my own as it was a simple fix. I am running the 3 link setup. Ray

[sethmark]

Ray, with regard to the three link, ride height and loaded weight made a big difference. I spent a bunch of time with Jim at FFR only to figure out it all works when it’s at ride height my pinion angle is 1.5* below output shaft with better than .75"of thread engagement in the 3 link upper.

i did add the heater delete hose. Doesn’t fit long term, but for now it’s fine....

[rapidray]

I am mystified at all the things people have had to do on the pinion angle deal. I disconnected my rear shocks and used 2 pole jacks on the rear housing to position the lower control arm at the loaded weight and had a 7 degree pinion angle and did not have enough adjustment to correct it. I wonder if maybe its the way the rear bracket was positioned by Moser? After I lengthened the upper link it worked perfectly with 2 degree angle. I could set it with the supplied link and the transmission mount but then my right exhaust pipe hit the frame. So I did the simple fix. Ray

[rapidray]

Sethmark I just went back and looked at your thread again and now I see the difference. You stacked a spacer on your right side exhaust and that would have probably also fixed my problem (raising the trans mount) So apparently we did experience the same problem we just corrected it in a different way. I did what I thought we be the easiest. Works either way. Thanks for your input! Ray

[sethmark]

You bet. I got the chassis built pretty quickly but am totally intimidated by the body work. I’m a fabricator and welder.

Always something new to learn.

[rapidray]

Sethmark, I could tell you were a welder when I looked at your exhaust work! most excellent! I have been welding most of my adult life and have all the welders Tig, Mig etc. But no way am I as good as you! I would love to see how you mounted your accelerator pedal (I am assuming you used the Cadillac one) if you could shoot me a couple of pictures of it I would appreciate it. I did not see a picture of it on your build thread. Thanks Ray

[sethmark]

I cut the factory pedal assembly in half and used the FFR supplied pedal end., which I disassembled.

I drilled a hole in the gm piece and dropped a bolt in it so the angle was adjustable. When the car is done and the seat position finalized I’ll weld up,the two halves.

Ill be at 90% complete for quite a while. Until the body and paint is done I’m driving it as is. It’s fun...

[rapidray]

Sethmark, my pedal assembly is completely different than yours. The one I have is a huge plastic one. My donor car was a 2006 Cadillac ESV. I will send you a picture of it Monday. What year was your donor car? Thanks Ray

[sethmark]

I used a 2003 Escalade pedal. It was huge. I cut the linkage off.

[rapidray]

Sethmark, from 2002-2005 they did use the metal one. I wonder if it would work on my 2006. What year did you say your motor and trans was? Thanks Ray

[sethmark]

My computer setup is gen 3. The pedals ARE different depending on year and computer. The plugs and resistance can be different. Don’t know what the break is. Sorry....

[rapidray]

Ok finally figured out what to do with the drive by wire accelerator pedal, cut the big old plastic thing off and installed the FFR supplied pedal. Went to install the battery and could not understand why you would put the battery in the suggested position? What if you need to change it or jump start! What a terrible idea! I relocated mine to the trunk after building a tray and new wires. Also built a body stand out of some scrap steel I had laying around. Worked out real well. Sturdy enough to start the basic body work while I am working on other things. Also mocked up all the exterior lights and everything worked! (headlights, turn signals, brake lights and starter) Enjoy Ray

[sethmark]

Ray,
The need to relocate to the trunk is kind of odd. My GEN two kit came with a bracket and hold down for mounting it in the trunk specifically and the manual called it out.

[rapidray]

Sethmark, you are absolutely correct! I am laughing at myself. I think I received a old manual because my paper copy and my online copy are different. Either way I am glad I built a little tray and the upper mount would not have fit my battery, so again it seems I went out of my way! Thanks for keeping me straight! You are running a standard transmission if I remember correctly? Cheers Ray

[rapidray]

Sethmark, another question. Was your rear aluminum 2 pieces? Mine is one solid piece. Looks like yours is 2 in the picture.

[sethmark]

You’re welcome. We need to watch each other’s backs. CRS is a *****.

[rapidray]

I am still curious as if anyone has Gen2 trunk aluminum that is 1 piece most of the pictures I have seen are at least 2 pieces while the 1 I received is a solid piece. Here is a picture of mine. Sethmark looking at your picture your fuel tank opening is on the opposite side as mine. I don't think the one I received is going to work without cutting a hole for the fuel tank filler, here we go I guess another call to FFR is in my future. LOL Thanks Ray

[sethmark]

I like it. It’s better.

[rapidray]

I also would prefer to have the 1 solid piece. I think i will just cut a hole in the piece i have and patch the other side as it is covered anyway.

[sethmark]

Have you look at the fuel tank? Maybe they change that too?