NUHale's MKIV 7275 Build Thread - FFR Premium Top Review

[nuhale]

I've been trolling this site for years wondering when I would pull the trigger and make the commitment to build my dream car. Going back to June 2019 one late Saturday night while window shopping under the influence I made the leap and purchased my MKIV on eBay. Was at a rolling chassis stage and the previous owner went with most of the upgrades so jumped on it. Been planning on keeping a build thread but been falling way behind. I'm a little over 6 months into my build and first want to thank many of you for your feedback, your build threads and overall support when in those 10 steps backward moments. Over the next few days I'll get this thread up to date on the 100+ hours I already have in it and will update going forward.

Here's some pics to start from the delivery of my #7275 2010 MKIV
Original Specs:

MKIV complete Kit
Poweder Coated Chassis
FFR Electric Gauges
Setup was originally for BBF427
Leather Seats
IRS (old pre-2015)
IRS Read with 8.8 (Ford M-4010-A88) 3.27 Gears Lincoln MK8 Sliip Traction lock diff
Mustang Brakes
17" Halibrand Replica Wheels
Heater/Defroster
Roll Bars (sold)
Toyo 888 tires

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3.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well how about that...#7275...I built #7276 for a customer! A very early Mk4 (with the short lived larger trunk configuration) delivered at the end of June 2010.

Looking forward to following your build!

Jeff

[nuhale]

July 2019

Built a low profile buck based on some prints found on FFR forums. Have limited space in the garage with all my incoming parts so decided to put body to the ceiling. Found some inexpensive pulley systems on amazon that can hold up to 300lbs (more than enough) so I can move body up and down easily and without calling in a buddy favor. Took the constant weight off them using some tie down ratcheting straps for long term.

[nuhale]

July 2019

Spent a good amount of time going through all the paperwork, boxes, and parts previous owner had procured. It was amazing to see how much planning went into this person's build and for him to hang it up only after a few months seemed odd. Their loss my gain I suppose... I had my build plan roughed prior to this purchase so I started to overlay everything that was in place and all the things that would need to change going from at 427 build to a coyote. Many of hours spent on this site understanding all that would be needed.

This poor car sat in a warehouse in Rochester NY for close to 9 years untouched. Most the aluminum was complete, all the drive and brakes installed, and that's about it.. Basic rolling chassis. It was stored properly and was happy to only find a few issues including rotted out control arm and tie rod boots. All switched out to energy suspension parts (PN 13009 UCA & 13024LCA). What a pain getting the ball joints loose. Also found that the KONI shocks I had were the date codes recalled back in 2011. Wrong lottery to win but after a few calls with KONI and FFR I was floored when they offered to send me all new shocks after so many years. AWESOME SERVICE!!

Started with a few quick changes that was on my build plan including switching out to a powered rack. Purchased on rock auto N101-0106 BBB/Vision PS rack. First interaction with Mark at Breeze (many more to come) with his power steering bump steer and adjuster kit. I did have to hone out the ID on one side of the rack. Also grinding into my new baby's frame to allow for clearance of the bellow was a painful process. As writing this months later I realize how easy it is now vs when you first get the kit.

[nuhale]

July 10, 2019

First order of business... ENGINE. After insane amounts of research and conversation I decided on GEN 2 Coyote with Mike Forte. As noted countless times on this site Mike has been great to work with. Went Gen 2 with a TKO600 as thought Gen 3 still too new and too many unknowns. Plus I plain out like the look of the engine better without that alien head cover. Not worth the extra 25HP.. Added all the Forte bells and whistles including hydraulic clutch, hydraulics, hydro boost etc.

Received Engine on September 9th. Like Christmas morning...

[nuhale]

September 2019

My 2010 kit came with the old cast Wilwood brake pedal box. After much research I decided to change out with the forged new style based on enough feedback that the cast were prone to breaking. Forte had modified some of the component so accept his Hydroboost. As noted by many Mike doesn't provide installation instruction so it leaves much to the imagination and digging for others experience. As this was some time ago I recall the whole setup coming in and out at least 6 times due to forgetting something or making a change.

Overall the Hydroboost went in ok... not the prettiest thing but solid. Took some tinkering to get it set correctly and once I thought I had it done... realized the lower canister was in the way of the steering shaft. Had to remove it... again and Mike lent me his special made tool to remove the retainer nut to "clock" the part so its free of any interference. I had to mill out the retaining feature in the aluminum mount so hopeful this thing doesn't come loose in the future. Doubtful as it seems pretty locked down.



Moved on to the Pedal box and fabricated an aluminum accelerator pedal on one of my HAAS mills (benefit of managing a tool shop). Came out pretty sharp I think. Had to make some adjustments to get my foot placement right. I'm a pretty big guy 6'-3" 260lbs so need to make sure I'm gonna fit and be able to drive a comfortable as possible. Ordered the fly-by wire mount from FFR that needed a little work to fit but got it all in.

[Straversi]

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome. Looks like you are well on your way. Thanks for sharing your build.
-Steve

[nuhale]

September 2019

Started the process of the braking system back in Sept 19. Have the stock Mustang brakes F&R that came with FFR kit. I was contemplating upgrading to Wilwood kit but decided to just go with a Forte's hydroboost setup with already installed brakes by previous owner. Next came the countless hours of research on what materials and tools best used. I had my heart set on stainless but after some tinkering in the garage and good reviews I decided on Nicopp. I spend too much time on the details and as crazy as it sounds really like the look of copper against the black powder coat. Picked up an Eastwood flaring tool and a tube straightener off EBay. AMAZON SHOPPERS BEWARE! -> The Nicopp that is found and recommended by Amazon is CRAP!!! It was crimping in my flaring tool and spun me around for hours thinking something was wrong with the tool. I finally had a "Doh!" moment and realized it was the material. I bought another "made in the USA" from the stop shop and it flared perfect. I bought some suspension ceiling wire in a coil too & used straightener to make bendable lengths to rough in my lines. This made process manageable and did all the runs as continuous with no unions. Only have the "T" for the front and rear split. All in all the process took some learning but Nicopp was great to work with and all in all turned out great. Fast forward to Feb 2020 this past weekend where my inexperience in fittings came out as I used a 45 inverted flare to fit to the 3AN banjo nuts provided by Forte's Hydroboost. Spoke with Mike and said should be fine but I decided to do it right. Bought the 37deg wheel from Eastwood and corrected. I pulled the lines off and cut the very end off with cutting wheel. Cleaned up the end and flared to single 37deg flare. This took roughly 1/4" off the length which made my "perfect" parallel lines look off to get around the 3/4" frame. Something that I'll only notice but my perfect lines slightly off.

Had to re-flare the lines meeting the 3AN banjo nuts.

[Railroad]

Nice work on your brakes. I noticed your car has the early front upper control arm bushings. I recently read that these need to be inspected for proper lube application. Those without issue seem to do the job, but lack of, or insufficient distribution of grease can cause issues. Not trying to alarm you, but failure of this part, could be very serious.

[nuhale]

Thanks for the heads up Railroad. I wasn't aware there was issue with this part. I'll give FFR a call and see what they recommend. I did a quick search and it looks like others just replace the whole UCA.

[nuhale]

For documentation purposes: Just spoke with FFR tech. He explained that there was an issue with UCA design from MKII generation. There can be issues if the control arms are not serviced and greased regularly and also explained that if the control arm mounts to frame aren't loosened during alignment they can bind up or cause stress fractures that can lead to failure. Net net these are fine but need to be regularly serviced with grease and loose when aligned.

[Greg K]

Just how loose??? Loose bracket would impact alignment when tightened back up.
I'm sure driving and road conditions will put more stress on them than any alignment would.

[edwardb]

Just how loose??? Loose bracket would impact alignment when tightened back up.
I'm sure driving and road conditions will put more stress on them than any alignment would.

Just backed off slightly to where the UCA arm can move on the connection as the adjusters are moved. Not floppy loose. Then snug back up when the alignment is done.

[nuhale]

Showing this as complete but this was a go back and do again. When I bought the engine from Mike Forte he supplies a GM filter/regulator along with some quick connect nylon lines. I had decided to use all of this and had in place but after some time I didn't want my fuel line in the tunnel. It's more preference as I know many have done this successful and without issue. Decided to use the GM regulator with in-tank fuel pump in place of a more traditional setup in the engine bay as I didn't have to run a return line and feel it will give some more space. Used a little of every type on this one. I used the nylon quicks from the tank to the regulator, a 6an braided PFTE from the regulator to the hard line, 3/8 Nicopp hard line down the rear end and down the outside of the 4" frame rail, and back up into the engine bay. I finished the hard-line with a 6AN fitting so I can attach to fuel rail with more braided PFTE line once engine is in. Was able to find the 3/8 FIF to 6AN fitting on summit to eliminate pressure fitting.

[nuhale]

Just a fast forward post as I haven't caught up with where my build is but didn't want to forget this one....

Filled the Diff with 80w90 after too much reading on my 8.8 M-4010-A88 3.27 "Lincoln Mk8" LST. Took around 1.8L with 4oz friction modifier from Ford.

I'm sure many like me of the modifier.. WARNING: This stuff stinks. My garage smells awful and really pissed the wife off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[nuhale]

Trying to keep up with documenting my progress but really falling behind. Feel like I'm in the zone and had a "moment of clairity" seeing how this can all come together soon. A couple updates...

Mounted radiator using Breeze mount kit (top & bottom). Went together pretty well. Had previouly made some mounts for my Moroso expasion tank but with the piano hinge I will need to rethink.



Installed Heater & Wiper motor. The heater was a pain as the "template" was not quite centered on the copper in/out and had to do some careful hand bending to make it fit. Crossing fingers that I didn't create a pinhole in one of the joints. Will be a pain later so . Took a page out of EdwardB (many of these) and took apart motor casing and gave it a coat of gloss black pain. The olive green looked terrible. I aslo replaced the mount with a T-Bolt with mount. Read that these are standard now so worth the $8 in place of the 2 position u bracket.

[nuhale]

I have been in touch with Jim (jimland) on my hydroboost from Mike Forte. I've written about the challanges of this part in other posts but continue to have concern about the mechanics of the unit. No engine, no hydrolic run yet so just going off of a bled system. When one of the brake circuits is lost the other is gone as well. The master relies on the hydrolic pressure to engage both brake circuits. There are mechanical features in the master that should engage but not getting the plunge depth from the hydro assit to engage. I'm hoping that this is provided once hydrollic pressure is in place from pump on engine. I've taken the setup apart to study the mechanisms and have gone thorough the forum for all other info. I made sure the push rod is adjusted perfectly with near pefect engagement to the master reciever. Will report with Jim as we get this figured out later down the road.

Made some steps forward... then some steps back. I had been considering a proportioning valve for some time and just decided to install. Took some time going back and re doing some lines to get it installed. Made a 1/8" steel bracket for it to mount on the lower outside frame rail. Happy with the outcome and if it was really not needed it will at very least give me piece of mind that i have the ability to adjust.



Now to bleeding the brakes. I had the MC off the boost and bench bled the cylander. MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS! Many have said and many have ignored. You will not be happy when all installed and you have air in the MC. I took my time and made absolute sure that no air left. A bit tedious and messy but got there. I had attempted bleading the brakes with some help from a friend the good ol fashoned way. No sucsess... Attepted a vaccum tool from HF. POS, don't bother. I called the Forte hotline and he was adimant about pressure bleeding with his setup. At first was a litte upset with the notion of another tool to buy for one use only. I did some poking around on the interweb and came up with a solution. A trip to Menards and $25 later I had this....



Using a $9 garden sprayer, some clear hose, a $2 PSI gauge, a 1 1/4" rubber stool foot and random hardware I was able to create a solution. Had to silicone the hell out of the pressure gauge but ultimily worked PERFECT and was a one man job. I clamped over the scotts reservior, gave it around 10lb of pressure and made the bleading process extremly easy and without mess. Happy to provide anyone details of the setup if they are interested.

Tested the system and NO LEAKS. Fingers crossed that this chapter of my build is DONE.

[nuhale]

I had gotten ahead of things before I studied my coyote harness. I had installed a brake switch on the clutch to accomodate for both bottom and top safety switch. My harness was the most recent gen 2 one that only requires a bottom safety switch so another part that will eventually end up on a garage sale. Took a page out of the master EdwardB build and made a braket similar to his. I have not mounted the switch yet as waiting to pressurize the cluch cylander to get a read on best location. Will tap some holes for mounting with #6 1 1/2" allen bolt. Will come off soon to powder coat but works like a charm. Easy fab and saves a few bucks from buying FFR (which will need to be mod anyway).

[nuhale]

This one is a biggie for me. Ever sence I started this journey I have been spending a ridiculous amount of time studying others dash design. I have fell in love with the classic more traditional look. There are some really great dashes out and feel one of the best is GUMBALL's. Had a oppurtunity to connect with him and talk about his design. He was great and hope not too bothered by me borrowing some of his design. Have to say this was where I had my "moment of clairity" that this is Real. Can't wait to get the cover on. Going with the Vynal that Alex provided with his glove kit.

I mounted the dash with some fabricated 1x1 aluminum brackets. Checked body fit and mounted using 1/4-20 rivnuts direct to frame. The dash is held to aluminum brackets with #6 countersunk stanless screws. Had to be careful not to countersink though. Dash was thicker .090 aluminum witch helped. Like the under mount better than screws showing on dash. Feel it will be a cleaner look IMO.

Some specs:

• FFR vintage gauges that came with kit. Sent back to speedhut to remove the FFR text. Added oil temp guage
• Converted analog spedo to a GPS one. Was surprised how low of a cost this was.
• Bought a pre-cut aluminum dash from the forum that was sized & pre cut for S/C layout and included the alex cutout... didnt have to cut squat, just open the pilot locator holes.
• Tossed the FFR switches and replaced with LUCAS brand ones.
• Russ thompson turn signal
• alex's low profile glove (to fit with heater)
• FFR heater switch
• 3 pos wiper switch off amazon
• classic knobs from Ashly Hinton on EBay. Used some 1/4" brass hex stock and set screws.
• some random stainless button switches of amazon
• FFR indicator lights
• lucas 56604 light (org plate light) for map light
• Vent Kit from Paul Proe
• Column bezel from Mike Everton

Not Shown- I struggled with the ignition and headlight pull. After too much back and forth ordered a 65 Scott Drake setup ignition and headlight pull with bezels- On the way. The ignition will be closest to spedo as I feel more comfortable.

[nuhale]

One last post for today... I saw a post yesterday where EdwardB cautioned the brake reservior to be no more than 12" from footbox edge... mine = 13 1/2.. BRAKE SAGA CONTINUES... easy fix but now have a visable rivnut for nothing. Body will prob hide but I will know it's there. Glad I caught it now before engine in. By the way...



ENGINE GOING IN THIS WEEKEND! This COVID19 crisis may have be doing this solo.

[Straversi]

Coming along nicely. Great job on the dash and good luck with the engine install.
-Steve

[jiriza84641]

your'e in Gurnee, nice, I'm south of the City, well still in the city. have my kit on order, completion date is 4/11, so waiting on FFR to contact me for this.

[nuhale]

Big day today. Engine IS IN! Thanks to some friends that were able to brave the COVID-19 and come and help. We played it safe and have all been quarantined for over past 2 weeks. Crazy times we live in...

Overall the engine install as others have documented was a huge milestone but was pretty seemless. Only hangup we had was I had steering shaft hanging down that got wedged between inside of lift and header and couldn't get engine in mount so had to take some steps back. Other than that should have only been a 30-40 min job but took 1HR. Having 3 people was perfect. I can't belive some have done this on their own. 2 would have been ok but 3 was the magic number.

Hoping anyone can provide some pointers:

Engine not level to frame. I put a level on engine and sitting lower on PS. Will try and losen mounts and get it set as level as possible. Tips?

The oil pan looks like it's pretty flush to the bottom of the 4" frame rails. More concerning the bell housing falls below rails. Anyone address this or will be fine?

[Boydster]

Congrats on the engine install! I'm not a Coyote owner, so cant help with the questions, but gotta say that last pic is a great one. Genuine happiness at a special time in the build.

[Railroad]

I think J Kleiner puts washers between the motor mounts and engine. From memory, this was to get the header off the foot box, level the engine, etc. Maybe Jeff will explain it better. I did it, just do not remember all the details.
Not impossible to do with the engine installed, I did it.

[edwardb]

I assume you have the Coyote completion kit provided spacers inside the motor mounts? On both sides? Where are the motor mount bolts located in the slots in the frame? Bottomed out on one side or the other or both? Sometimes the engine will wedge in slightly off center. Having said that, how much clearance do you have on the DS footbox to the engine and exhaust header? It's typically really tight over there. Factory Five used to tip the engine over slightly to the PS to give more clearance. Although typically not required with the current sheet metal. But just something to look at. It doesn't hurt the engine to be slightly off level, and depending on the clearance you may not want to move it.

For the bell housing, how much does it hang below?

Congrats on the engine installation! It's a big step in the build.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I think J Kleiner puts washers between the motor mounts and engine.

That's the old way...after that Whitby began making some spacers...now, as Paul mentioned, FFR makes two spacers per side that are included with the Coyote kit and get assembled into the Energy Suspension motor mounts. I can't tell by the photos whether they are in there or not but I know that this kit is nearly 10 years old and predates by a good bit FFR's Coyote support so unless nuhale recently purchased a Coyote installation package he wouldn't have those.

Jeff

[nuhale]

Thanks for the follow up Jeff & Paul. Got up first thing loosened up the engine to frame mounts and was able to adjust the engine very easy to perfect level side to side. The engine is slightly down angle to rear on only using the transmission mount hardware from FFR (new 2019). I have some spacers that Forte sold me so have it adjustable. I will mess with this once I get driveshaft and get pinion angle dialed in.

As this build was originally set for a 427FBB I did get the new aluminum design and engine mount spacers in energy suspension (both sides) from FFR. Getting comfy with the fit but it looks like the engine sits about 1 1/4" above the front top rails at high point (see first pic). I can reduce this significantly by raising the trans with a jack forcing the engine more parallel to the frame. I assume by the time I get the pinion set on my pre-2015 old 8.8 IRS will fit in the bay without contact to hood. The radius of the body allows this to fit.. Just hard to visualize as I've been starting at this frame for way too long...

Other fit questions by EdwardB- Using Gasn' headers and fit is much better than I had seen here on forum. I have just below 1/2" to DS footbox corner. Much better than the 1/8" I've seen. Side of the engine clears a around 3/16" which is around what I expected.

Bell Housing sits below roughly 1/4". After doing some searching on this forum started to have other concerns using an aluminum housing but will go with it for now and possibly add a Kevlar blanket down the road. I do have a driveshaft hoop and plan to install once engine angle etc is locked int.

Pictures make my powder coat look like crap... doesn't look bad to the eye! Will have to polish things up after this is set with the eastwood powder coat polish.

[nuhale]

Help!

I was planning on fabricating brackets to mount my Moroso exp tank. First I was going to assemble and install the frame hood hinges to check clearance. Not 10 min in realized that I have wrong parts. My build is a 2010 and wonder if FFR sent same brackets from MK3 and new MK4 as they seem rather similar. FFR is shut down into May so I'm a little out of luck.

Can someone please give me a measurement on clearance I should plan for on tank? Anything will help if edge of tank to frame or even CL of mount. Need a point of reference so I can continue to make progress.

Thanks!

[edwardb]

Mine is 4-inches from the edge of the tank to the hinge bracket on the frame at the front. That gives plenty of room for the hood hinges. You don't want it any more than that because on the other side you need room for the cold air intake to curve past the tank. For height, my standard recommendation is mount it so the top of the Moroso mounting flange is even with the bottom of the chassis radiator 3/4-inch tube. That give good clearance to the hood. I made brackets to place it at that height, and then another bracket for the bottom mount that rests on the fan shroud. The tank is pretty heavy when full, so IMO needs all three mounting points.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Funny thing; when I built 7276, one number apart from yours, they did the same mixup. Must have been some teething pains with the very early Mk4’s. If you leave 4” where you show “?” It will clear the hinge—-barely. A full 5” would be better.

Jeff

[edwardb]

Funny thing; when I built 7276, one number apart from yours, they did the same mixup. Must have been some teething pains with the very early Mk4’s. If you leave 4” where you show “?” It will clear the hinge—-barely. A full 5” would be better.

Jeff

Unless his hinges are different than the ones I pictured, 4-inches gives the clearance shown in my picture. The bolts on the upper part of the hinge on the hood look close, but they go forward of the tank as it closes.

[Ducky2009]

Engine being level. I didn't level on the top of the engine as you show. I installed the headers and measured from the floor to the bottom of the outer (side pipe end) header flange and made equal. You'll need this when installing the body. This turned out to be almost the same as the top end being level. Couldn't quite get there at first. Ended up having to grind the frame engine mount slot on the drivers side downward approx 3/16" to shift the engine enough.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Unless his hinges are different than the ones I pictured, 4-inches gives the clearance shown in my picture. The bolts on the upper part of the hinge on the hood look close, but they go forward of the tank as it closes.

Here's one in the shop now. Tape is against the 3/4 square tube:



So, I'll change my statement to "...5" would be better if you have room on the LH side to get that much".



Jeff

hoodhingemorosotank.jpg

[nuhale]

First start today! I've fallen way behind on my build thread and have much progress to document but this was a biggie so guess my build thread is a choose your own adventure. Unfortunately I would love to write about the flawless start where everything works 100% but alas.. not for me. I ran into some wiring trouble early where I did get some first cranks but then NOTHING. I pulled everything apart and checked with voltage meter to trace where issue is. After spending most of the day I found culprit to be poor engine ground but may be something in my harness whip to battery/starter. Not sure how this could be as I triple checked everything including my soldered joints for ground and starter wires. I'm leaning towards ground. The good news is coyote fired right up. The roar (even expected) was a shock and now know the true power of this vehicle. Straight away I noticed some issue with my wheel shooting left. I jumped out of the car and had a significant leak out of the top input of the BBB power steering rack. Disappointing as I bought new rack to avoid issues. Overall good roar but not getting a tach read and my oil pressure all over the place. Granted only ran for maybe 60 seconds given leak. More work ahead but I'm happy with this huge milestone.

[nuhale]

After my first start last week had to take some steps back and replace the power rack that failed. Spent some extra time and got it dialed in perfect and did a "quick" alignment. Also set pinion angle for drive shaft. Some have reported a 3/4" spacer to get within .5deg. I had to go 1" block aluminum and a 3/16" washer (set between energy suspension mount and FFR offset mount). Just a heads up not to over tighten the bolts into the trans. I stripped out the threads as I torqued to bolt spec. Have to go back and drill out and add a nut to be safe.

Electrical still has been a pain. I would get the engine to turn over prior to first start and this week but then would get a gremlin and would get NOTHING. I spent close to 6+ hours checking all leads and grounds. The PCB wasn't sending a start signal to open the relay and turn the starter. After hours of frustration and many colorful words I found a loose connection to my alternator from computer. Lots of head scratching but I think I got it pegged.

I was a little overly aggressive with the FORTE hydraulic clutch adjuster rod and my bench grinder. Will need to pick up some threaded rod to replace and I need another 1/4" or so.

The hydro system worked perfectly. No leaks which was a relief. My FORTE hydroboost did brake the car but still a little spongy. Think I still have some air in the system so will be back to bleed this week. I will write up separate review on this power assist setup as I've had a good amount of difficulty with it and still feel it's a little unsafe if I lose pressure from hydro or brake line.

First GO CART 5/9/20 for my 10 year old MK4. What a journey for this poor car to sit in a warehouse for so long now finally getting on the road. Granted was only 2.5 miles around the neighborhood but was definitely an experience. This thing wants to GO!! Got both some smiles from the neighbors and a few scowls. O well....

Also thanks to Peter for bringing his MK4 over and witnessing the first drive.

[nuhale]

[LOBO 302]

September 2019

Started the process of the braking system back in Sept 19. Have the stock Mustang brakes F&R that came with FFR kit. I was contemplating upgrading to Wilwood kit but decided to just go with a Forte's hydroboost setup with already installed brakes by previous owner. Next came the countless hours of research on what materials and tools best used. I had my heart set on stainless but after some tinkering in the garage and good reviews I decided on Nicopp. I spend too much time on the details and as crazy as it sounds really like the look of copper against the black powder coat. Picked up an Eastwood flaring tool and a tube straightener off EBay. AMAZON SHOPPERS BEWARE! -> The Nicopp that is found and recommended by Amazon is CRAP!!! It was crimping in my flaring tool and spun me around for hours thinking something was wrong with the tool. I finally had a "Doh!" moment and realized it was the material. I bought another "made in the USA" from the stop shop and it flared perfect. I bought some suspension ceiling wire in a coil too & used straightener to make bendable lengths to rough in my lines. This made process manageable and did all the runs as continuous with no unions. Only have the "T" for the front and rear split. All in all the process took some learning but Nicopp was great to work with and all in all turned out great. Fast forward to Feb 2020 this past weekend where my inexperience in fittings came out as I used a 45 inverted flare to fit to the 3AN banjo nuts provided by Forte's Hydroboost. Spoke with Mike and said should be fine but I decided to do it right. Bought the 37deg wheel from Eastwood and corrected. I pulled the lines off and cut the very end off with cutting wheel. Cleaned up the end and flared to single 37deg flare. This took roughly 1/4" off the length which made my "perfect" parallel lines look off to get around the 3/4" frame. Something that I'll only notice but my perfect lines slightly off.

Had to re-flare the lines meeting the 3AN banjo nuts.

Does the kit come with all the paddes clamps to hold down all the lines on the frame?

[nuhale]

The kit comes with assortment of rubber padded clamps for fuel and brake lines. I replaced them with stainless clamps purchased on Amazon.

[LOBO 302]

The kit comes with assortment of rubber padded clamps for fuel and brake lines. I replaced them with stainless clamps purchased on Amazon.

The builder who posts a list of upgraded hardware and their uses and suppliers could make millions!! The more I research though the more I realize how personalized these builds really are