25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: taking it to paint!
Attended Build School with my son August 2019
Ordered a 25th Anniversary MKIV October 25th, 2019 - pushed finalization to January 18, 2020 to finalize funds
Car was finalized for pickup, #9772 which is #20 of 25 of the 25th Anniversary Cars.
Stewart Transportation was selected for delivery, $2,100 from Boston to Sacramento Area.
Picked up on 1/22/19, and delivered 2/6/20 (some weather delays) and I was car #10 in a trailer full of 10 cars... ours was tucked WAY in the back.
I turn 50 this year, 25 year anniversary at my workplace, and 25th anniversary for Factory Five - the planets have aligned!
My son (23) and I will be the primary workers on this car, we've done several things with cars from brakes, to axle replacements, to simple stuff like stereos, wheels, etc. But this is a whole new ballgame!
I've created a website to capture all the thought, progress, ideas for this endeavor: https://cobradreams.com I've made my color choice - will save it for the reveal!!!
Toadster, looks like you have a very thorough and complete plan in place and your ready to build! I've been out on your site too, nicely done! I'm in front of you with #19, but I'll surely be behind you in my build (planning a few years to complete mine) and will be following yours closely. I dig the color scheme and it should look sweet once it's completed. Enjoy the build and more importantly, enjoy building it with your son and other family members and friends too!
Congratulations on your anniversary roadster. I look forward to watching it go together. I’ve never seen the Boyd’s tank in a roadster. The ones they build for the 33 are nice. I’m sure you and your son will have a great time.
-Steve
The FFR wipers work, but many have reported that they’re not the highest quality (especially for the price). A solid alternative was found by EdwardB, which is a kit from Specialty Power Windows (model WWK-2). Similar style setup but all the parts are beefed up compared to the FFR/Lucas ones. And it’s also around $300 instead of $500. Just letting you know there are options.
Good luck with the build! The stars have indeed aligned.
The FFR wipers work, but many have reported that they’re not the highest quality (especially for the price). A solid alternative was found by EdwardB, which is a kit from Specialty Power Windows (model WWK-2). Similar style setup but all the parts are beefed up compared to the FFR/Lucas ones. And it’s also around $300 instead of $500. Just letting you know there are options.
Good luck with the build! The stars have indeed aligned.
thx for the update, I've tried to gather a LOT of pre-purchase info... wipers I'm not super worried about for functionality - hopefully won't see too much rain around here
Way to go Toad! off and running... I am following your build progress, hoping to learn something. If you ever need another body to help please let me know, more than willing to come over and help.
Congrats on the build! Just couple things on the Gen 3 Coyote...make sure it's plumbed with the OEM and the Seed Hut Oil Pressure senders and be prepared to trim the engine cover considerably (especially if you plan on using the gas struts!)
Congrats on the build! Just couple things on the Gen 3 Coyote...make sure it's plumbed with the OEM and the Seed Hut Oil Pressure senders and be prepared to trim the engine cover considerably (especially if you plan on using the gas struts!)
ahhh I love autocorrect! I'm sure you mean Speedhut Oil Pressure Senders
I went a little backwards, normally I'd do the POR15 THEN the shiny parts, but oh well - the aluminum cover was shined up and clear-coated IMG_9606.jpg
Even after a day of using the ironX spray, I had more surface rust to hit... IMG_9615.jpg
Here's a quick video showing the metal prep step of the POR15 process, very important to have the POR15 coating stick!
The IRS diff is VERY heavy ~ 93lbs. and awkward to move, I have to give @edwardb credit for building a mount for his setup - I used a milk crate and it's a real PITA to setup properly due to the design
once the prep dried (quickly thanks to compressed air) I was ready for the stinky stuff! Don't' worry that it's such a tiny amount, it's self levelling and works VERY well! image-2020-02-23-16_20_01-040.jpg
The end-result was awesome! It's funny how many of us enjoy doing this to a part that most people will NEVER see! IMG_9629.jpg
While the diff was drying, I finally got to removing the doors, trunk, hood, the front/rear bumper mounts, front body mounts, and the 4 body screws under the doors.
next I marked the inner body panels that will be trimmed to fit later once the body is off... this was recommended at the build school, run a sharpie perpendicular to the body and trim along that line. IMG_9609.jpgIMG_9608.jpg
I noticed that the front body mounts were bare metal, and many say they won't use them - but I figured if I do, I painted them (not really seen but now protected) IMG_9621.jpgIMG_9624.jpg
I bagged and tagged the parts removed to make sure they don't get lost, and also not mix the front and rear bumper mounts - they look similar but very different! IMG_9632.jpg
and the final shot of the body, ready to pull and mount on the buck tonight (hopefully!) IMG_9631.jpg
next I marked the inner body panels that will be trimmed to fit later once the body is off... this was recommended at the build school, run a sharpie perpendicular to the body and trim along that line. IMG_9609.jpgIMG_9608.jpg
I suggest that you revisit this because there is no way you'll need to remove that much material.
You might want to revisit your lockwire spec. The lockwire should be tight enough to NOT allow a bolt to rotate. The bolt to the left could turn/loosen because the wire "between" the bolts is too losses.
Good luck in your build! Never stop asking questions. There is a wealth of information here.
Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-24-2020 at 12:37 PM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
You might want to revisit your lockwire spec. The lockwire should be tight enough to NOT allow a bolt to rotate. The bolt to the left could turn/loosen because the wire "between" the bolts is too losses.
Good luck in your build! Never stop asking questions. There is a wealth of information here.
yes, I agree I have a few to re-do, just need to get more wire... surprisingly, the 27 ft of wire that came with my safety pliers was a perfect amount for what I used...
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
I suggest that you revisit this because there is no way you'll need to remove that much material.
Jeff
agreed, the sharpie I used had a pretty fat tip on it, so most likely will trip to the TOP of that line (not the bottom)
...so most likely will trip to the TOP of that line (not the bottom)...
Personally I'd recommend not cutting anything until later in the build. I know they say this at build school. All due respect, they've been saying it for a long time and I'm not sure the fit is the same as it used to be. Sheet metal and body are placed for shipping. Not way off necessarily, but also not necessarily where it all will be later when finalized. As the saying goes, you can always remove material. But hard to put it back once it's off. I've never had to trim that much (either side of your lines...) in three Roadster builds. You'll find it's just not hard to take the body on and off. Even a few times.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Personally I'd recommend not cutting anything until later in the build. I know they say this at build school. All due respect, they've been saying it for a long time and I'm not sure the fit is the same as it used to be. Sheet metal and body are placed for shipping. Not way off necessarily, but also not necessarily where it all will be later when finalized. As the saying goes, you can always remove material. But hard to put it back once it's off. I've never had to trim that much (either side of your lines...) in three Roadster builds. You'll find it's just not hard to take the body on and off. Even a few times.
With the help of my son and one of my friends, we were able to successfully re-assemble the body buck, pull the body, and strip the panels to get to the base frame!
first we assembled, and tested to make sure it fits in the garage - yay! IMG_9635.jpg
from my previous 'upgrade' I added some locking casters, the bummer is that they're about 1.5" taller than the old ones, so we had to remove the front ones to clear the garage door! IMG_9641.jpgIMG_9639.jpg
next we tagged and pulled the interior panels (many of which are on the POL) IMG_9640.jpg
believe it or not, the rivet spacer is on POL, I mean really?! So my son was creative and took one of his old rulers from elementary school and modified it IMG_9644.jpg
the F-panels were in a separate box for the engine bay panels, so we drilled and cleco'ed them in until I get a new tube of silicone IMG_9645.jpg
Mounting the front LCAs - the passenger side was just like the manual - one spacer in the rear mount, the front was perfect
The driver side was a PITA, front mount needed coaxing with a dead blow hammer, the rear has 1 spacer but looks like it needs a 2nd - should I put a second one?
Hey Toad, I would follow what the FFR Manual on how it advises for assembly and/or consult with the tech folks at FFR. With that said, I'm actually wondering why there are not spacers on each side for both upper and lowers and perhaps even copper (wearable) spacers on each side? Yes, they wear out, I know, that's the point! None-the-less, are you greasing them up prior to install? I also did notice that the upper plastic/rubber spacers have "grease grooves or slots" manufactured in them. They're similar to the modification that many have made prior to them manufacturing them this way, which is great, since I was planning to mod them. I'm thinking there should be something not similar, but a small mod on the lower part to allow for better grease coverage to flow. I have a couple ideas I'm thinking about. I'm not at this stage yet, but I do plan to pre-grease all fittings as I assemble any friction/moving related parts. Anyway, you're moving right along, keep at it!
...perhaps even copper (wearable) spacers on each side? Yes, they wear out, I know, that's the point!
Dj
Huh? There better not be anything moving on the LCA washers. The sleeves inside the polyurethane bushings get captured between the chassis tabs and are stationary.
Ahhh... I was thinking that the boxed bracket welded to the frame would begin to get wear over time and so the "sacrifice" would be on the spacers instead? Your explanation clears that up and so I'll not be making any mods to the sleeves themselves. Do we need to slot the poly parts like they are now done on the UCA's for better grease coverage? Thanks for clarification, Jeff!
Total transparency... LOL I got my 15/16th wrench today, did the passenger side, and went to the drivers side... forgot to use the open ended side - whoops!
Total transparency... LOL I got my 15/16th wrench today, did the passenger side, and went to the drivers side... forgot to use the open ended side - whoops!
Least invasive: use another wrench and put the open-end on the nut, just inside of the stuck wrench. Remove the bolt.
More invasive: cut the stuck box end ratcheting wrench out with a dremel. One of those rare cases where a non-reversible ratcheting wrench stinks.
If it makes you feel any better, just the other day I installed a rivnut using my fancy tool in a tight spot, then couldn’t get the tool out of the newly set rivnut. I had to cut the threaded tip off my tool to get it out. This was after I wasted an hour+ trying to get it out. Tried disassembling the tool and everything, but it was not possible. To replace that one tip I need to buy the whole set of tips for $35. Ouch. Least I learned something...
Last edited by Logan; 02-28-2020 at 11:16 AM.
Reason: Typo
Least invasive: use another wrench and put the open-end on the nut, just inside of the stuck wrench. Remove the bolt.
More invasive: cut the stuck box end ratcheting wrench out with a dremel. One of those rare cases where a non-reversible ratcheting wrench stinks.
If it makes you feel any better, just the other day I installed a rivnut using my fancy tool in a tight spot, then couldn’t get the tool out of the newly set rivnut. I had to cut the threaded tip off my tool to get it out. This was after I wasted an hour+ trying to get it out. Tried disassembling the tool and everything, but it was not possible. To replace that one tip I need to buy the whole set of tips for $35. Ouch. Least I learned something...
well, i guess i'm off to buy another 15/16ths wrench to see if step #1 works.
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Please step away from the tool box, turn off the light and leave the garage.
Jeff
yeah, my excitement got the best of me, last of 4 bolts mounting the LCAs - the first 'parts' on the car... thinking the clearance was like in front of the tube, but not so... I did leave the garage, today is a new day
Hate it when that happens lol Wrench might be to wide to fit. I’ve ground lots of wrenches thinner in my life over the years.
I’d try some needle nosed visegrips first, it’s almost like grabbing the nut with a wrench.
Good luck!
Kurt
If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....
He used a ratchet box end wrench and when the bolt came through the nut it trapped his wrench. When he tries to take out the bolt the ratchet spins freely and won’t loosen the nut. I don’t think he’ll be able to get another open end wrench in there, not enough room. We’re just trying to give him ideas how to get his wrench out. He wasn’t thinking the bolt would come through and trap his wrench. If it wasn’t a new fangled ratchet wrench he could just back out the bolt. He even said oops I used the wrong end. Any way you look at it his wrench is stuck and he’s looking for help. He made a mistake.... he’s not dense.
Kurt
If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....
Hey Toadster, sh!t happens and we all make silly mistakes. Gotta love it when you assemble something and forget a part or whatever and have to redo it, it only equals frustration and curse words, but please, don't throw the wrenches! As said above and/or get a harbor freight or cheaper brand tool and grind one side down if necessary. I know I've made my share of mistakes and had to make some "custom tools" to get me out of that particular pickle, but I still use some of them when a wonky situation arises. Wrench on...
Worst case if the new 15/16 open ended wrench doesn't fit, use a grinder to make it thinner.... Also, bicycle wrenches are thin, might call your local bike shop and see if they have a 24mm in a thin bicycle wrench.
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Originally Posted by Logan
