Swapping Coyote Headers

[Jdav]

When I built the car in 2017, I had the Coyote shorty headers and j-pipes. After having the j-pipes crack on 2 separate occasions, I decided to upgrade to full length headers and went with the ones from Gas-N.
I was not looking forward to the install on a completed car - the original install was probably my least favorite part of the build and it took me a week, rubbing my fingers raw getting those bolts in tight places (and that was with the body off).
But I am happy to report that tis install was MUCH easier - about 5 hours of work over 2 days to remove the old and replace the new. While still not a fun job and does require you to be some level of contortionist, a few factors made it go smoother:
1) slotted bolt holes: the Gas-N headers have slotted bolt holes, so you can start the bolts on one side and slide the header in
2) flange bolts: the bolts that came with my original headers were hex head bolts that needed a 17mm socket; the ones Gas-N provided were flange head reducing the socket size down to 14mm, allowing for much more clearance
3) pipe angle: the shortys started to angle down pretty sharply almost immediately; the Gas-N are angled out more, allowing more direct access to the bolts

I didn't remove anything from the finished car and with just an extension, wobble and crows foot, was able to get enough access to torque everything down.

The newer version of these headers include a slip joint style at the merge collector to allow for some adjustment.
With the side pipes on, the driver side lined up well with my body cut out. For the passenger side, I needed to shift the engine just a bit. I'm a little closer to the front edge of the body cut out than I was before, but i think it'll be ok.

I didn't notice a big sound difference, but maybe a little deeper exhaust note. I'm sure the design allows it to breathe better.

[Al_C]

Looks good! Any idea why the j-pipes cracked?

I have the shorty headers and j-pipes as well and do not relish the thought of needing to replace them anytime soon or at all! If I were going to do another coyote build, I'd certainly go for something similar to your new ones.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Maybe some help on two things. Really hate to say this after the OP spent so much time on the original J-pipe install but the engine will drop right in with the pipes installed. During the build had my dressed engine in & out a few times. Last time was less than 10 minutes working alone.

I believe the tube to flange tube & welds are too fragile to support the weight of the side pipes. Broke my drivers side pipe in just a few months of daily driving. FFR sent a free replacement. I took the stress off the pipe using some junk draw parts, exhaust hanger insulator, small turnbuckles from Home Depot & perforated metal exhaust strapping from the auto store. About $10/12 worth of parts.

J-Pipe is supported by the unit attached to the square chassis tube above it. Turnbuckles allow the tension on the Jpipe from the side pipes to be set to zero load. have not had an additional fail or even a connecting bolt re-tightening.



This was to be a quick & dirty test. Then it changed to if it ain't broke don't fix it, so I never did a neat version. Thing is its hard to see anyway. Has maybe 4 years + on it now.

[Jdav]

Yes, I know now that I could have originally dropped the engine in with the shortys, but didnt at the time

The j-pipes are IMO just a poor design. Too much weight and dynamic forces on a weld (not to mention restrictive flow)
I too installed a turnbuckle after the first one cracked and was replaced. Decided to go with these after it cracked again.

[Al_C]

I installed turnbuckle supports before it went out for body/paint. Mine connect from the frame to the side pipe connection. Part of my reasoning was that I couldn't keep the side pipes from hitting the ground. (obviously, that got fixed in other ways) It's good to hear that this approach works longer term!

This is what I did, which by the way, was inspired by JDAV...