Corrugated tubing and rubber couplers

[octobersknight]

All,
If you've used the FFR corrugated tubing and filters, I could use your help and advice. I checked out a few threads already, like sgarret's build and the silicone coupler discussion, but I haven't found what I needed.

My donor is a 2006 WRX. Earlier today I tried following the manual and put the thin, smaller coupler "sleeve" on the water pump. I could not for the life of me get the larger coupler to slide over it - with or without the corrugated tube attached. I tried a spare large coupler without the little sleeve on the water pump and it felt right around the pump bead/collar, but loose past it. What have others done?

Also, my hard lines had crazy cracks in the rolled bead. Anyone else experience this? I wonder if it happens to all of them eventually, only we never see after it's installed. I'm going to reach out to FFR and see what they can do about it.

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[Ajzride]

I threw the rubber adapters In the trash. Buying a 10 pack of silicon adapters on Amazon was cheap and saved a ton of headaches.

[octobersknight]

What part did you buy? I didn't find anything close when I searched.

[Ajzride]

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00UILRC...roduct_details

[michael everson]

Wow. never seen that on the pipes. Probably doesn't matter but wouldn't want to find out the hard way.
mike

[octobersknight]

Update: FFR is sending new pipes ASAP. Awesome as usual.

Has *anybody* used the FFR rubber couplers? I'm really trying to use them rather than buy yet another part, but will give up soon trying to fit them. The new pipes will be the deciding factor for me. If I can't even get them on the new pipes I'll try the silicone route.

On that note, has anybody found red ones the right size?

[Harley818]

Hey October....

I had to go back and read my thread but back when I did it I used the thinner rubber couplers supplied by FFR. At that time they were also supplying a thicker rubber bushing that went over the pipes. Apparently that was for the original 1.25 in hard pipes. I received 1.5 in diam pipes and didn't need the thicker bushings.... and couldn't get them on.
In my thread (Harley's 818, on P 2 of the build threads), there is a whole discussion on the issue starting with post #53 where I couldn't get the bushings on, and a final summary and pics on post 72 showing my eventual routing. There is also discussion about the importance of the heater return line that you should be aware of.
I'm not sure if this helps as that was 4 or 5 years ago now (was it that long ago???) and I don't know what they supplied you.
Looks like Ajz has a good solution if you have issues.
Hope this helps.

Drove my car to work today....AGAIN. Still brings a smile to my face. 4th summer and running strong. Worth it.

[octobersknight]

Harley,
Thanks, I took a look. Do you remember what your water pump connection was? I'll assume it's the thinner of the two inner coupler sections. I was going over the gas filler neck, but maybe I'll have better luck under. Are there any later clearance issues with that tube and a floor pan or diffuser?

[Harley818]

Don't recall what size the water pump connection was but I did use one of the rad hoses supplied by FFR. I think you cut one of the hoses in half and use one on the back and one on the front.
No clearance issues with the tube and floor pan or diffuser that I know of but I don't have a rear floor pan or diffuser.

[octobersknight]

Harley,
Thanks, I took a look. How did you route your right side tubing and pipe? I cant find a way that doesn't rub somewhere. Maybe I'll buy some 90-degree silicone reducers and just cheat a little.

I was able to get the thin inner sleeve onto the water pump and get the out coupler on there. I have both rear tubing sections hooked up to the engine now. I'm working to figure out how to run the hard tubes to the front. FFR sent me some new ones that are a little cracked but way better than the previous ones.

[NAZ]

Possibly another option to consider:

If you can't find a standard radiator hose that works, throw away that hard to work with wrinkled tubing and go to AN fittings and hose. Way easier to work with and much stronger. You don't have to weld in AN fittings as you can purchase AN adapters to fit more common size SAE style hose fittings.

[Harley818]

Harley,
Thanks, I took a look. How did you route your right side tubing and pipe? I cant find a way that doesn't rub somewhere. Maybe I'll buy some 90-degree silicone reducers and just cheat a little.

I was able to get the thin inner sleeve onto the water pump and get the out coupler on there. I have both rear tubing sections hooked up to the engine now. I'm working to figure out how to run the hard tubes to the front. FFR sent me some new ones that are a little cracked but way better than the previous ones.

I just ran the tubing up the side and in through the hole in the front side just behind the wheel to the radiator. I used some extra rad hose to cushion the tubing in places where it touched the frame. That stuff is very thin and I'm sure would rub through quickly. I strapped the tubing all the way along to make sure it didn't move. So far so good.

[octobersknight]

I ended up with pretty good routing for my flexible lines. I was able to connect to the OEM pump connection with the thinner coupler as a sleeve and then the regular outer sleeve. I bought and used a silicone elbow for the right side rear connection because I couldn't get the corrugated hose to bend the way I wanted. The front end bent tube easy they say in the manual, but the connections are very close to the tires at full lock.

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[Rob T]

When Chad built the car I own, he put some 6" long lightweight aluminum channels (just easily bent up, nothing fancy) on the corners where the front wheels turn in to protect the tubing/hose. They have some scuffs on them, so I know they are working, and I never worry about wheel rub on the tubing. I seldom have the steering wheel to lock, except in the driveway or paddock, but it's nice to know I'm protected.

[STiPWRD]

I'd suggest test fitting the front splash guard aluminum - it will help press the tubing back away from the wheels. You may have to move the tubes towards the rear a bit. The sheet metal is meant to be flush with the frame. I also had a slight rubbing problem in these areas (wheels would rub on the frame at full lock) and had to put in some steering rack limiters.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-1-DOUBLE-...0AAOSwzJ5XYwlQ