EdwardB’s 35 Hot Rod Truck Build

[TxMike64]

Amazing built!

Kinda makes me want to throw my hands up and walk away from my build - as now all my efforts look terribly rudimentary... Oh well, it's rough and unrefined, but this junk is still mine!

[edwardb]

Amazing built!

Kinda makes me want to throw my hands up and walk away from my build - as now all my efforts look terribly rudimentary... Oh well, it's rough and unrefined, but this junk is still mine!

Now don't be walking away!!! It's your build and something to be proud of. Many do the "rough and unrefined" on purpose. It's another version of art.

[edwardb]

Earlier this week we sanded and polished the rear fenders. That’s it for paint. Huge shoutout to my buddy Greg who did the paint with some occasional help from me. Mostly just tried to stay out of the way while learning a lot about the process. A truck with all the fixings is a lot of work. More than both of us expected. Just for grins, here’s a picture of the checklist I had hanging above my workbench as we ticked off all the parts.



Today I mounted the rear fenders and did the final adjustments on the running boards. A few more tweaks and bolts tightened underneath and that was it. Drove it around the block a couple times in my sub. Sure different with windows and things closed up since the go-kart. Seems to drive OK. But only 25-30 mph for now. Will have a better feel for it later. Engine seems to run OK. Transmission shifts OK include the sport shift. A/C blows cold. Not as loud as the Coupe but not real quiet either. Next week I’ll get the inspection done so the title and registration process can get started. Michigan has been running 4-6-8 weeks. We’ll see.

While out on the driveway and a little bit of late afternoon sun, snapped these pics.











I think I’m going to go with XPEL on the running boards for protection. So, I guess I’m really only 99.9% completed. But that can be done while I’m waiting to get legal. Other than that, on to my next project. I'll post more about that in the next couple days.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking good Paul! It sure is bright….State Troopers will spot you from a mile away ‘cause you won’t blend in with traffic

Hope the registration process goes quickly so you can get out and have some fun with it this summer

Jeff

[Jim1855]

Paul,
Looks great. Kinda what we expected, you are predictable and talented.
I'll second Jeff's comment, that sure is a bright red. Way into the "arrest me" range.
Jim

[Jeff33Ford]

Stunning! Can't wait to see it in person this summer.

[wareaglescott]

another great build. Congrats!

[Ted G]

That looks amazing!!! Congrats my friend!

[Fman]

Beautiful! Love that Ford emblem on the tailgate. Congrats on another epic build. Hope you get out and enjoy it this driving season.

[wallace18]

Job well done!

[rthomas98]

Paul that looks really great.

[Blitzboy54]

Work of art! Congratulations Paul, she’s beautiful.

[dbo_texas]

Looks amazing as usual. Great job on the build Paul!

[Lew]

Beautiful job Paul!
What offset do you have on your wheels?

Lewis
'35 Trk

[edwardb]

Beautiful job Paul!
What offset do you have on your wheels?

Lewis
'35 Trk

Thanks. The wheels are from Wheel Smith in California. Tire size 245/45ZR18. I have the same wheels/tires on all four corners. The wheels are 18" diameter, 8" width, 5 on 4.50" lugs, 5.00" backspace. That's the largest backspace they offered. The installation also includes 1" spacers to clear the brakes and also sit better in the fenders.

[D02G]

Hey Paul,

Maybe I missed it, but did you announce your next project?

[edwardb]

Hey Paul,

Maybe I missed it, but did you announce your next project?

Not yet. Soon. Working on my graduation post and will talk about it there. Thanks for your interest.

[edwardb]

This has been a little slow in coming. First a couple more pictures of the finished truck in addition to the ones I posted before.







Time to get legal and graduate. With the truck done, I called the local sheriff dispatch line for the safety inspection. That’s how it works here. That was all the way back on Tuesday, April 11. Within 15 minutes or so, the officer drove up my driveway. He signed the inspection form with only a glancing look at the truck. That was easy! I checked the Michigan SOS website for an appointment to do my title application. There were times later in the same day. Why not? Let’s get this done.

Showed up at the appointment time and waited just a few minutes. When I walked up, I explained why I was there. The head shake and eyes rolling back in the head suggested this might not be easy or fun. She wasn’t very happy with me, and I found out very quickly not to say anything or even ask questions. After going through my papers (and aggressively shoving back to me the ones she didn’t want) and looking at her computer screen, off she went to the supervisor’s office. Both came out and filled out the screen together. After a discussion about how I already paid sales tax for the crate motor so it shouldn’t be included in the amount to be taxed (again not happy with me) I paid my tax bill and she handed me the papers. She explained that because it was a replica, it didn’t fall under the assembled vehicle procedure. They applied for the title as a 1935 Ford Truck with the FF serial number as the VIN. I didn’t question it but didn’t seem right. This is my fourth time since state changes after my Mk3 Roadster 12 years ago. The other three were treated as assembled vehicles (and replicas obviously) so this was a big surprise. My conclusion was either something has changed or the application would get to Lansing and be delayed. Imagine my surprise when eight days later I received the title in the mail. 1935 Ford Truck with the FF serial number as the VIN. I still don’t understand it. But I’m not going to question it.

The next day I worked with Robbin at Midwest Classic Insurance and had the truck added to the same policy as my Coupe. With the title and proof of insurance, made another appointment to get registered and my license plate. In and out in 10 minutes this time with smiles all around. Total of $37 for registration, a personalized plate, and the annual tax. That 1935 date was paying off big time! I’m on a temporary tag until my personalized plate arrives.

Back home, what else to do but have my first real drive? Drove one of my shorter country loops. Just under 12 miles. All worked OK. Drives good, runs good, shifted good, etc. Up to 55 - 60 mph and no surprises. But three things to address: (1) There was a very loud squeak/rattling sound from the back wall of the cab. (2) There was a huge rush of air coming from the rear corners of the cab. (3) The brake pedal was too high. Here’s what I did with each, and at least two may be useful for other truck builders.

Squeak on rear wall: Upon further examination, it was from where the body rests on the “cab rear to bed aluminum panel” (page 314 in my manual). The rear fiberglass wall of the cab is flexible enough that it moves along this aluminum panel and makes quite a racket. Ideally, this length along the back wall of the cab should be bedded in the adhesive of your choice at time of the last body installation and the fiberglass flange on the outside of the rear wall (just in front of the front bed wall) riveted to the aluminum panel. Too late for me. Took the seats out (also for point #2) and put a row of 3/16” multigrip rivets into the aluminum panel and through the fiberglass flange from underneath on the inside of the cab. That seemed to work. Can’t make it rattle or squeak by shaking the rear wall and didn’t make any noise on a very short test drive. Highly recommend new builders lock that area down during the build.

Air from rear corners of the cab: This one I should have seen coming. Really don’t know what I was thinking to be honest. With the cab installed, there’s a roughly 6 x 8 inch opening to underneath the truck at the rear inside corners. The kit provides an aluminum corner piece that gets carpeted and installed in the rear corners. But it’s not airtight. Air and exhaust sound pours through that opening like you left the window open. I’ve now stuffed multiple pieces of 2-1/4 inch square by 42 inch long window A/C foam weather seal into the opening from inside and from underneath. I don’t know yet if that fixes the problem. Again, something for new builders to look at. There may be other ways that air is getting into the cockpit from along the sides or back. I will continue to monitor.

Brake pedal too high: I set the brake pedal according to the Wilwood directions to get the required amount of throw. Remember, this isn’t a Wilwood pedal box. Didn’t use it. I have a Wilwood double master cylinder on the modified firewall with a vacuum brake booster. The brake pedal swings on a mount I fabricated and bolted to the top of the platform where the Wilwood pedal box normally goes. Detailed earlier in this build thread. With the power brakes, I get full braking with only a couple inches of pedal push. So, I dropped the dash and adjusted the clevis that is attached to the brake pedal arm to lower the pedal about half an inch. Huge difference. My foot was catching on the side of the pedal. Now it’s much more natural and feels safer.

Also on my “to-do” list was to attach the running boards to the chassis mounted platforms FF supplies. The fiberglass running boards are a little bit flexible and along with the fenders can move around some. I decided to use the same 3M 5200 Marine Sealant that FF said to use for the floor insulation panels. Was impressed with it when I used it before. For each, put some beads of adhesive on the chassis mounts, bolted the running boards to the front and rear fenders, then put some weight on the running boards (a precision cinder block on towels…) and let them set for a couple days. Seem rock solid now.

Finally, just yesterday changed the oil. Chevrolet Performance says to change the oil in their LS crate engines after 30 miles and again at 500. Each time check for foreign material or whatever. They must not trust their assembly folks too much! My odometer was at 90. But first go-kart drives where with an uncalibrated Autometer speedometer which was way off. Actual mileage probably in the 30-40 mile range. The drained oil looked pristine and nothing in it. But all new now.

I’ve been waiting for some decent weather to take some longer drives to report my issues solved as well as more driving impressions. Between the few days of repairs and rain and even a little snow, just hasn’t happened. Rained all day yesterday and supposed to again today. (Side note, my grass is really green!) I’m hoping to take it to a club event next week. We’ll see.

So, with that, I’m calling this build thread a wrap. It’s been an interesting journey like it always is. My truck was delivered on January 5, 2021 and officially done and legal last week. Two years plus. Not a fast build by any means. But as is usually the case, life happens along the way. During that time, lost my elderly Dad, lost a brother to Covid, gained a new granddaughter (that makes five grands), went to the HS graduation of another granddaughter, have played taxi for our oldest grandson who’s at university here in Michigan and just finished his junior year studying mechanical engineering, lots of car events with our local club, LCS, Factory Five open house, another Detroit Autorama, my wife had major surgery and now completely recovered, and I had my own hospital stay dealing with some medical issues. Around all that was able to get this truck built. Who says the life of a retiree is boring? Lots of thanks to go around as always. To Factory Five for a fun project and a very cool final result, multiple suppliers who mostly gave me great service, to forum members who encourage me and answer questions, to my wife who supports my hobby and usually joins for cruising, and a special shout out to my buddy Greg who always was a text message away when I needed help with something and ended up being my painter. Nice work even though we totally trashed his garage. On to the next project.

<< continued in the next post >>

[edwardb]

I’ve been not so subtly hinting about my next project. Time to fess up. Here’s a quick summary and a link to a longer thread about it. I’ve had a lifelong interest in aviation. Did radio control models pretty much since high school until that was replaced with this car thing. But I’ve always wanted to build a real airplane. Crazy, right? So far most everybody says I am. I don’t care. I’m doing it. I’m building a Sling TSi from Sling Aircraft in Johannesburg, South Africa. It’s a 4-place mostly all aluminum low wing that’s been around a few years and getting a lot of interest. I ordered the wing and empennage kits last June and received them April 4. Just over three weeks ago. I’m having fun and so far incredibly impressed with the kit. Here’s the post with more details. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...708#post524708.

If you want to skip my life’s story, here’s a link to the EAA website where I’ll be posting pictures. https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=PaulTSi. Here are just a few:

Finished Sling TSi Example:



Serpent Express trailers also work for airplane kits:



Skeleton of the LH wing. And yes, I can get it out of my basement. The wing spars come out of the crate factory built. Along with several other structural and safety items. But you do have to drill countsinks for the rivets along the top and bottom of the wing spars. Visible in this picture. A total of just under 800 between the two spars. The flat plates at each end of the wing are jigs to align the wing with 1.5 degrees of washout. Locked in once all the skins are in place. Very clever.



I hereby declare myself the winner of the “How many Clecos does it take?” contest. For an airplane, a lot of them. This is placing the skin on the rudder assembly:



Finally, an interesting piece that was the first thing I put together to check part fit, instructions, etc. This is the elevator horn that later has weights added for counterbalance. A lot of pieces and they fit perfectly. In the background you can see an example of the build manual and also how the parts are organized. Impressive. Literally thousands of rivets to pull for the build. My Milwaukee M12 Rivet Tool is working great. I also have a new air driven version that sucks the mandrel into the container. Will use that when I get into really high volume like the wing and fuse skins. Pulling by hand isn't an option here. I had to pull a couple of the medium size 3.2mm rivets by hand in a corner that was inaccessible with the Milwaukee tool. It was all I could do to pop with two hands. This assembly is mostly 4mm rivets and (for me anyway) impossible to pull by hand. The Milwaukee tool grunts a little but sets them perfectly.



With that, I’m off to keep working. Still planning to be back here regularly and post. Also have a full summer ahead of cruising for both the Coupe and the truck.

[mkassab]

Hey Paul.... My guess was your project was going to be a plane or helicopter. I've always wanted to do a helicopter.... although a plane is much safer. I too am going to do RC planes and Helicopters.... I have all the "stuff" but this car building is taking precedence.

Good luck, Mark

PS: I know I've asked you lots of questions, mostly via PMs.... will you continue to check them? If not, maybe I can get your email addrs some day.

[Papa]

Great work, Paul. You have set the bar with every build you've done. I'm still thinking of doing a Coupe or the RCR GT40 once I get to retire and get tired of traveling.

Dave

[Alan_C]

Once you get more miles on the 35 truck, I would be very interested in your seat of the pants comparison between the Coyote and LS3.
If I ever get my garage expansion built, I want to do a LS3 swap into a Saturn Sky.

[Jeff_J.]

Congratulations Paul, Great looking truck.

[edwardb]

Hey Paul.... My guess was your project was going to be a plane or helicopter. I've always wanted to do a helicopter.... although a plane is much safer. I too am going to do RC planes and Helicopters.... I have all the "stuff" but this car building is taking precedence.

Good luck, Mark

PS: I know I've asked you lots of questions, mostly via PMs.... will you continue to check them? If not, maybe I can get your email addrs some day.

I'm not going anywhere. Still will be checking in here frequently (like now) and I get notified of PM's. Will respond as best I can.

Once you get more miles on the 35 truck, I would be very interested in your seat of the pants comparison between the Coyote and LS3.
If I ever get my garage expansion built, I want to do a LS3 swap into a Saturn Sky.

I drove the truck another 20 miles or so yesterday. Hard to make a comparison between the Coyote powered Coupe and the LS3 powered truck. The Coupe drives like a fast and loud sports car. The truck like a... truck. At this point, the Coyote is smoother and more sorted than the LS3. But the Coyote is custom tuned and the LS3 is on the stock tune from Chevrolet Performance. Runs fine but maybe it would benefit from a custom tune? I don't know. I found the cost of the two engines to be nearly the same. Everyone always says the LS engines are cheaper. When I add up all the receipts, wasn't the case for me. That's comparing apples to apples -- new crate motors in both cases. There are a lot more LS's out there in salvage or whatever, so the opportunity on that side is maybe cheaper for the LS's. Installation was almost exactly the same. Same amount of major components, wiring, fuel lines, etc. So far, the main advantage of the LS3 is that it's more compact. In this case, made a difference. For other models (Roadster, Coupe) it's nice to have the extra room but they can handle either. For the amount of miles these cars typically get driven, I don't find durability to be a concern with either. So far, for me, it's a toss-up.

[RJD]

Truck looks fabulous! Congrats on your latest project taking flight (pun intended).

[Paul Mischenko]

Amazing build Paul - Congrats, I was just thinking what you will be up to next and saw the plane. Cars must be getting too easy for you!!!!

[edwardb]

Truck looks fabulous! Congrats on your latest project taking flight (pun intended).

Amazing build Paul - Congrats, I was just thinking what you will be up to next and saw the plane. Cars must be getting too easy for you!!!!

Thanks for the shout-out guys. Having fun with the airplane build. Lots of new learning and impressed with the kit. Empennage parts basically done. RH wing about 75%. LH wing not started. Ordered the next wave of kits. Six months lead time. When received, will have everything except firewall forward (engine and prop) and avionics (local supplier). Additional kits should keep me busy for at least another year. Lots of pictures on my EAA build site. https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=PaulTSi

[edwardb]

We had an extremely rainy spring and it’s been a super busy summer with family activities and travel. So haven’t driven as much as in previous years. We’ve tried to split driving time between the coupe and the truck. As of this minute, the truck has 737 miles. (750 in the title just sounds better…) The truck is running great. No issues whatsoever. The automatic transmission also is working just as it’s supposed to. The HGM controller has a Bluetooth connected app, so you can monitor what it’s doing. Appears to be going through the gears and into lockup just as it’s supposed to. Transmission temp also is fine, so my rear mounted power cooler is doing its job. The Vintage Air A/C works very well. Too well according to my wife. Really not much else to say. I’ve taken it to several car shows and events. It gets lots of attention. Last Sunday attended a weekly cars and coffee that they claim is the largest weekly event in the country. Can’t verify, but there were 600 – 700 cars and pretty crazy. I was surprised and pleased that the truck was awarded a top 5 best in show. That from an actual judge versus the usual participant judging where guys just vote for their friends. Don’t get me started on that…

I’ve been making a punch list of items to address and this week basically closed it out. Listed here:

- One of my main concerns is that the cab is tight. Nothing new there. The new version with the extended cab is for a reason. I made the situation worse with the somewhat thick custom buckets from Wise Guy Seats. I talked to them about possibly reworking the seats to make the backs thinner so they’d slide back more. We came to the conclusion that wasn’t really practical. What they did suggest was to remove the headrests and then the seatbacks fit under the rear window flange. Not really what I wanted to do because my safety side wants the headrests. But I tried it and the added 1-1/2” or so of additional rear movement does make a difference. For someone bigger than me different seats would give more space.

- The Chevrolet Performance instructions said one oil change at 30 miles and again at 500. Completed the first one several months ago and found clean and pristine oil. Was a bit past the 500 mark but changed it again yesterday. Again, the oil was clean, almost clear, and no sign of any shiny bits. I’m calling the early oil changes and break-in complete.

- With the truck on the lift for the oil change, looked everything over, checked for tight bolts, etc. Everything was just like new. One thing I’m watching closely is the steering shaft. Specifically, where it attaches to the steering rack with all the u-joints. Issues in this area have been reported by several on the forum. So far, everything is tight with no sign of any issues.

- I adjusted the ride height. Normal for new builds to sag a little at first plus I already had the tires really tucked into the fenders. I haven’t detected any rubbing. But decided to put a couple turns on all four corners to recover from the slight sag plus a little. Tires still look tight but now have more clearance. Still has the slight front to back stagger I want.

- I’ve had a little bit of a concern with the electric power steering. This is my first non-hydraulic setup. I feel like it works OK for normal driving. But at low speeds (while parking, going in/out of the garage, etc.) it was boosted but seemed to have too much effort. Had a back and forth with Dan at Factory Five and after several questions he says it’s working as it should. The good news is that after I raised the ride height (previous point) it’s better. You can’t spin it with one finger. But it definitely feels more boosted and the effort is reasonable. I’m thinking I had the ride height low enough that the front was binding a little? Or at least in a position where it was too much for that specific electric setup. I’m OK with it now.

- I removed the gauge on the Aeromotive fuel regulator and replaced with a plug. It’s been stable at the recommended 60 PSI since installed and adjusted. So removed the gauge as generally recommended for safety reasons.

- I thought about lowering the accelerator similar to how I lowered the brake pedal as discussed in a previous post. That would perhaps provide a bit more foot space. Dropped the dash and worked a bit to see if that would be reasonably possible. Bottom line, no. It’s buried and I’d have to take a whole bunch of things apart to get at the mounting bolts for the plate it’s installed on. Then drill new holes in the frame where it’s mounted. Plus, at full throttle (all the way down) it’s nearly hitting the firewall already. So, no go on that idea. Put everything back together. Related to this, I use the cruise control a lot. It's handy on the turn signal stalk and lets me take my foot off the accelerator and be more comfortable.

- I’ve thought about replacing the mufflers. It’s not particularly loud and I don’t mind the sound. But several forum members have reported internal baffles on the kit supplied mufflers coming loose. I haven’t noticed any unusual sounds from mine. Banged on them pretty good and nothing sounds loose inside. So going to hold on that idea for now.

- My last punch list item, still open, is to put some type of protection on the running boards. Right now they’re the same paint as everything else. My idea, for now, is to put some film on them. Xpel is what I’ve used in the past and I like it. I’ll get around to it eventually. But the bottom line is unless you’re a small child, you don’t step on the running boards. Unless you want to bang your head against the top of the door opening while climbing in. The opening is low so only makes sense to step from the ground directly through the doors. It's relatively easy to get in and out of. Nothing like the coupe.

That’s it. Other than the couple of minor items I'm watching, the build really is done. It’s fun to drive and show. I wouldn’t hesitate to take it on a longer trip. Just haven’t had the occasion to do so. With that, thinking about selling it. Read on in the next post.

[edwardb]

I’m one of those guys that enjoys the build as much as the driving. Maybe (probably) more. I’ve always ended my builds with the excitement of seeing it come together and work the way it’s supposed to. But at the same time a bit disappointed that the build is done. I’ve turned over three Roadsters mainly for that reason and landed on our Gen 3 Coupe. That one isn’t going anywhere. Both because of how much we like it plus we’re very active in our local Cobra club and kind of need something like that to be a part. Plus it's just so unique. This summer has proven that maybe we don’t drive enough to have two hobby cars and I'm not into having cars that aren't driven. Plus at some point I’m going to need the bay in the garage for my current airplane project. So, I’m entertaining the possibility of selling the truck. We don’t have to and I’m not going to give it away. I can find an alternate storage site if/when necessary. But if the right person comes along maybe we could work something out. Someone who likes driving more than building. Rather than having to go through this build thread, here’s a recap of the build. It’s highly optioned, with top quality all brand new parts. Clear Michigan title as a 1935 Ford Replica Pickup.

- Truck kit chassis number 138 purchased from Factory Five and delivered January 5, 2021.
- All fiberglass options including fenders, running boards, engine side covers, and hood. (Obvious from pictures)
- Ordered without powder coat. Alesta FF Super Silver II done locally on the frame and all panels. PPG DP90 epoxy on front suspension components.
- Chevrolet Performance 19370416 LS3 6.2L 376 C.I.D 430 HP crate motor, cast-aluminum with 6-bolt, cross-bolted main caps.
- Chevrolet Performance 19354328 LS3 engine controller kit.
- Vintage Air Frontrunner Drive System with 170 amp single wire alternator, Sanden A/C compressor.
- ATI Super Damper harmonic balancer.
- Holly Oil Pan and Valve Covers (with COP wiring clean-up).
- Hooker Headers (with kit).
- Gearstar Performance GM 4L65E Performance Transmission Level 3. Rated for 500 HP, 500 torque.
- Precision Industries Torque Converter, 3200 – 3400 stall speed.
- HGM Compushift Sport Transmission Controller with paddle shift option, Bluetooth connectivity.
- Lokar Electronic Sport Shifter. Uses paddle shift function on demand.
- Derale 16 row powered transmission cooler under bed in back.
- Griffin radiator (with kit).
- Pro-M Racing High Flow fuel pump hanger, Walbro 190 lph pump, Aeromotive regulator, Trick Flow fuel filter, Aeroquip TFE Racing braided stainless steel fuel lines, all -6 AN fittings.
- Moser 8.8 3.55 Rear Axle/Diff (with kit).
- 3-Link rear suspension (only option for truck).
- Koni coilover shocks (with kit).
- 400# kit coils springs in front, 250# Eibach coil springs in back.
- Wilwood 6-piston front brakes, Wilwood single piston rear brakes with e-brake (with kit).
- Wilwood dual master cylinder with vacuum power assist and proportioning valve. Braking is low effort and very strong.
- Electric power steering (with kit).
- IDIDIT chrome tilt steering column and steering wheel (with kit).
- Ron Francis wiring harness (with kit).
- IDIDIT switching relay headlight controller.
- Watson's Streetworks headlights on chime.
- Dakota Digital DBW cruise control. Switches on turn signal stalk.
- All LED external lighting including front DRL’s (with kit).
- Autometer gauges (with kit) plus added matching clock.
- Vintage Air Gen II ComPac A/C and heat. With Gen II Streamline control panel.
- Specialty Power Windows windshield wiper mechanism with billet arms.
- Chase Bays windshield washer reservoir and pump.
- Ball's Rod and Kustom power windows (with kit).
- Smokey Road Rod Shop aluminum bed wood system (vinyl covered, with kit).
- Custom Wheel Smith 18 x 8 chrome hot rod 52 spoke wire wheels (four corners).
- Continental Contisportcontact 2 245/45ZR18 tires (four corners).
- U-POL Raptor undercoat complete body, fenders, interior.
- Completely insulated with Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Dynamat Dynaliner. Firewall, cockpit including tunnel cover, and doors.
- Floor is double panel with insulation between (with kit).
- Custom Bucket Seats from Wise Guy Seats. On sliders plus back tilts back and forward to access storage behind seats.
- Custom center console with armrest and lit storage compartment. Under dash courtesy lights. Aux and USB ports.
- Paint is Sikkens base coat red 408E5 (from color book) and 4 coats of clear, sanded and polished.

I can provide a complete build list with even more details upon request. 737 miles as it sits at this moment. If you’re interested in considering, PM me and we can talk.

[edwardb]

Shameless bump. Only one time. I promise.

[progmgr1]

I'm hoping that the real reason you're considering selling is to free up garage space so you can be the F9 Beta Builder, if/when that ever shows up...

Keith HR #894

[edwardb]

I'm hoping that the real reason you're considering selling is to free up garage space so you can be the F9 Beta Builder, if/when that ever shows up...

Keith HR #894

Not thinking beyond the airplane build right now. But appreciate the sentiment. I actually contacted FFR about doing exactly that before deciding to build the truck. Things were way up in the air at the time and several years later only one beta build (Erik Treves, who else?) and still making changes. I've seen the current version of the F9 in person and while I like it not sure it's for me.

[edwardb]

Truck is listed at Bring a Trailer: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...truck-replica/

[JohnK]

Best of luck Paul. Surprised it hasn't sold yet, but I'm sure it'll do well on BaT. It's a gorgeous build.

[Kbl7td]

I saw your truck sold for significantly less than you originally listed for. Why not set a reserve?

[edwardb]

I saw your truck sold for significantly less than you originally listed for. Why not set a reserve?

It did have a reserve, not sure why you'd think otherwise, and just beat it during the last minutes. After a lot of research and considering several offers, it was clear my original idea of value wasn't realistic. You know what they say -- the market determines the value. Not the seller. Obviously I would have been happy with more. But I'm OK with how it turned out. The truck will be going to Texas.

One other comment. If this had been the newer extended cab model, it would have done better. The limited cab size of this original version definitely limits the market.

[Kbl7td]

On my end it didn’t show a reserve like an eBay listing. Not sure if that’s a feature of BAT or if it shows a reserve is set once you go to bid. If I ever list my SLC, I would prefer them to not show that there is a reserve, only that it wasn’t met by all parties once auction was over.

[edwardb]

On my end it didn’t show a reserve like an eBay listing. Not sure if that’s a feature of BAT or if it shows a reserve is set once you go to bid. If I ever list my SLC, I would prefer them to not show that there is a reserve, only that it wasn’t met by all parties once auction was over.

The was my first time with BaT, so I'm far from an expert. I think it's possible to sell with no reserve, but from what I've seen the listing says that. When there is a reserve, it has to be agreed to with BaT before they accept your listing (I had to negotiate a bit with mine) and the amount is never disclosed to the bidders or even the final buyer from what I can tell. If bids don't meet the reserve, it says auction has ended and reserve not met. But again doesn't say what the reserve is to anyone but the logged in seller. I found the overall process well organized and professional. But it's not fast. Took several weeks to get everything ready. Their website has quite a bit of information and FAQ's which probably explains things better than me.

[JohnK]

I'm also far from an expert on BaT but I have lurked on a LOT of auctions and bid on a few. As far as I know, if there's no reserve it will be advertised as such and there will be an indication at the top of the listing that there's no reserve. If there's no such indication, then that means that there's a reserve but the reserve amount is never disclosed. I have seen on some auctions where, once the reserve has been met, the seller will post in the comments that the reserve has been met so that bidders know that the auction will result in a sale. This is totally up to the seller to do, and doesn't always happen so sometimes it's not clear whether the auction will result in a sale until time runs out.

Edit: As an example, if you look at the current crop of "Project" offerings, it's clear which ones are being sold with no reserve.

https://bringatrailer.com/project/

Sorry for the hijack.

[edwardb]

Truck is sold and headed to Texas. Loaded into a trailer today and away it went. Semi-sad to see it go. It was a fun project. But on to the next one. The Coupe is down for the winter but already looking forward to getting back on the road in the spring. It's not going anywhere!!



Speaking of the next project, here's where I'm at with my Sling TSi airplane build. The wings and empennage are 100% done and stored "mostly" out of the way in our basement. Next stop for those parts is whenever it's hangar time for paint and final assembly. My fuselage kit is at a freight terminal in the Chicago area and scheduled to be here this Tuesday, Nov 28. Back on May 26, they were promised in 6 months. Not bad. Four crates at 886#. Should be interesting. The build so far has been very enjoyable and the kit is amazing.