It looks like you used bulkhead fittings for your front brake hard-line-to-flex-line junction...and it looks like you made your own bracket. What was the hole diameter of the thru-hole (probably for an AN-3 size)?
I'm trying to figure out if I can use the FFR-supplied bracket, or if that hole is too big for the AN-3 sized hardware
The flex lines by Goodridge are installed and the brakes are bled. No leaks under full pressure, so that made me happy.
The radiator was a little bit of a project. As I mentioned previously, I ended up with a Ron Davis unit that a would-be-builder unloaded because he chose to take on a different project. The flanges are too short for the Breeze supports, so I had two pieces of aluminum angle welded to it. It worked out very nicely. The setup is way more than I need (it's sized for a 1000 hp LS), but I shouldn't have any radiator-related cooling issues.
Given that wiring is next, I decided to install the Breeze cubby divider and the battery tray. And because I'm installing the fuse box in the trunk, I stiffened up the divider with a piece of 1/8" aluminum. It's super sturdy. I didn't bring it all the way to the top of the Breeze piece because I figure it will be easier to install the bulb seal. It will all be covered with sound deadener and carpet anyway. I'm pretty sure I'm going to cut a full-width access hole into the rear cockpit wall. Also, I've decided not to use the FFR trunk hinges because I feel like they'll just get in the way. An old-school prop-rod will work just fine.
You can see the general location of the fuse box. I'll use a Seals-It split grommet to seal it all up. Split fuel hose will prevent any wire damage in the meantime.
And finally, the battery tray. Fairly straightforward, but I had to address the gap due to the X member and the 4" tube not being parallel:
I found that mounting the rear part of the box directly against the 4" tube and then pulling the front plate to the X members worked well. The gap is gone, or at least unnoticeable. I debated about powder-coating the box, but I actually like the raw stainless look.
I enjoy following along on this build. Very nicely done, very clean, great attention to detail. I will be doing an LS build as well so I like to see the things each builder does to innovate and overcome obstacles so we can all create a superior end result with minimal mistakes. Many have done what you are doing but not all have shared in such detail. Watching several LS builders and taking in a lot of info. Just a big thank you for sharing your dream and info! It is greatly appreciated!
The wiring has started in earnest and I'm working on it circuit by circuit. I might have mentioned previously that I have a ton of experience with residential wiring, but only a little automotive. It's a different thing, so I'm taking a very (maybe overly) methodical process to getting things right. Many of you may shake your head when you read this, but it's what makes sense to me.
I'm happy with the Rebel Wire harness, and the wire they use is clearly high quality.. I'm kind of on my own because while Rebel is known for their high quality harnesses, they aren't known for their schematics. Correction -- they don't supply any, so I'm creating one for each circuit after I confirm it's working. I really enjoy the process and I'll know what every wire does when I'm done.
It's definitely going to look worse before it looks better, and it's more organized than it looks (really, it is ). There's a ton of extra length on each circuit to be shortened.
Observant readers will notice the turn signal above, which is from Frank at i.e.427. It's a solid unit with a nice mechanical feel, and it will also switch the horn and hazards (or high beams if you choose). The installation instructions are excellent, and the install itself is simple. I had to translate the RF harness wires to mine, but that was super easy.
So far I have the following circuits working: turn signals, horn, headlights, tail/park lights, brake lights, and reverse light. I'm happy that I got all of this done without any fuss -- with one exception... the turn flasher stops when I apply the brakes while the turn signals are on. I isolated the problem to the Hopkins trailer converter, as my test light flashes properly when connected upstream from the converter. The converter clearly isn't translating the signal. I thought it was a bad unit, so I replaced it with another from Autozone. No change. It was suggested I replace the Hopkins unit with a Tekonsha converter, which evidently does a much better job of dealing with LEDs. It arrives soon, and I'll update this thread with the results. I've learned through a little research that this is a known but sporadic problem with the Hopkins converter. I should note that I replaced the front 1157 incandescents with LED's from SuperBrightLEDs, so that may have something to do with it. Yes, I have LED flashers installed. The converter will ultimately reside in the trunk next to the fuse box.
I know there can be debate about the best and safest power source for testing circuits, but I decided to go the battery route with an in-line 5A fuse, a switch for convenience (however crude it may be), and a 12g temporary feed. Obviously this will all be replaced by proper gauge wire that feed a bulkhead isolator and a bussbar behind the dash. Maybe a disconnect switch too, but I haven't decided on that. I'm using 2 gauge battery cable from West Marine. Really nice stuff, and they will cut and crimp for you (at least the store near me will).
Don't knock the switch and wire nuts... they serve their purpose for now. . And the alligator clips are for the Battery Tender.
To help with circuit testing, I'm using super cheap LED pigtails from Amazon. I've connected them to things like low beams, high beams, dash light, horn, reverse light, etc. A quick and effective way to at least confirm the circuits work.
As I mentioned above, I was having an issue with the Hopkins trailer converter supplied by FFR. The brake lights and turn signals would not work together. This morning I replaced it with a Tekonsha unit and everything works great now.
Thanks to Frank (i.e.427) for timmediately knowing it was a problem with the converter and pointing me to the Tekonsha.
Your build is coming along nicely. I really like your chassis color, much nicer than black.
I’m working on a new clutch pedal stop bracket that doesn’t require drilling holes in the 3/4” tube. If I finish it before you come up with a solution I’ll let you have the first one.
Your build is coming along nicely. I really like your chassis color, much nicer than black.
I’m working on a new clutch pedal stop bracket that doesn’t require drilling holes in the 3/4” tube. If I finish it before you come up with a solution I’ll let you have the first one.
Nice work, Terry, and you're making good progress. I admire your ability to dive into the wiring and keep things organized. Testing one circuit at a time, and ensuring proper operation before moving on is definitely the way to go.
MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
Meandering, leisurely build thread is here
Things are progressing. I've been spending a bunch of time getting the wiring sorted and organized, with not much that's really visible.
I was originally going to place the trailer light converter next to the fuse box in the trunk, but decided it was simpler and cleaner to locate it just underneath, on the inside of the bracket for what I think is used for the 3-link suspension (maybe I'm wrong). I'm using weather-packs where ever it makes sense, and this seems like a good use for them.
I've also jumped around a little bit, getting a few other things done. One thing in particular that I wanted to address was the driver footbox inside panel, which was just loosely sitting above the 4" tube. This isn't too pretty, but it will be covered up and more importantly it's rock solid. The footbox side panel now has zero movement and I was able to gain about 1.5" of space. So much for the nice pretty powdercoated footbox floor.
I got the drop trunk fully installed, with just a little more sound deadening to apply. I'm using some NOICO material leftover from a previous project, and I have just enough to get the trunk done. I don't know how much I'll really use the extra space that the drop trunk creates, but it's nice to have it done.
I've started a rough mockup of the dash. I'm going with a Competition(ish) layout with a grab handle on the passenger side for functional purposes, but I also think it balances the appearance. I picked up a 12" handle at West Marine that I think will complement the interior well. My gauges from Speedhut are in production and should arrive soon.
I haven't updated this thread in while, primarily because of being away and most of the little stuff I've done since the last post isn't terribly interesting. However I have hit a milestone of sorts... I ordered the drivetrain. I didn't plan on ordering it until later this year, but honestly I was struggling with placement and fitment of certain things without being able to see, in-person, how the drivetrain will fit. I got the green light from the boss, and here's what will be arriving over the next several weeks:
GMPP LS3/430hp from Pro Touring Store. I debated between this and the other GMPP versions (495 & 525 hp), and the Blueprint 530hp. The 430 is a sweetheart of an engine with an excellent factory tune, and can always be cammed if desired. The hp rating is pretty conservative and closer to 450-460 by many accounts, but it's the torque curve that matters. Blueprint is out to July with their LS3, and about $2K more out-the-door (although a much better warranty for self-installers). I ended up buying the long block and the loaded intake manifold separately because it was significantly less expensive than buying the full crate. Side note and interesting tidbit -- Dale Schwartz, owner of Pro Touring Store, is super knowledgeable and helpful in the LS/LT space. And his dad owns Schwartz Performance, who builds the chassis for the Shelby Carbon Cobra.
C6 Corvette Oilpan (GM 12624617) and the needed parts, as recommended by FFR.
Wegner Automotive WAK034 Accessory Drive in machined finish with 170 amp alternator and power steering (Jones pump with remote reservoir). It comes with an ATI balancer, which is nice.
Controller Kit from PSI Conversion. It's essentially the GMPP controller kit (factory tune) with upgraded braided loom.
Flywheel, Quicktime Bellhousing, and Clutch from Mike Forte, along with his external slave setup. I originally intended to go with the internal hydraulic TOB, but Mike made a pretty compelling case to go external. Equal pros and cons to both, and often debated.
TKX from Mike, with the mid-shift kit installed.
I'm also finalizing the fuel system. I ordered the Pro-M hanger as recommended by many, and will likely go with a 255 or 340 lph pump, in-line filter (Holley, Aeromotive, or Trickflow) and an adjustable regulator -- all installed as close to the tank as possible. I thought about going with the C5 Corvette filter/regulator combo that many LS builds use, but it appears their reliability has gone downhill. Holley makes a combo unit that I may look at.
A few things done since the last update. The fuel tank is installed, but I'll spare everyone photos because it's really no different than any other build, with fairly common components...Pro-M hanger and 255lph Walbro pump.
I started tackling the fuel system, beginning with the filter and regulator. I debated using the Corvette filter/regulator combo that's very common with LS builds, but I was told by several people (and I've read) that the quality of those units has become very inconsistent. I chose to use a filter that was OEM in GM's trucks starting with the GMT800 platform (I can remember replacing one in our 2003 Surburban). Available anywhere, proven, and inexpensive. I'll be using -6AN adapters to integrate it into the fuel system.
I mounted it in this location, as many others do with other filter types (most commonly recently it seems, are the canister filters).
Next was the regulator. Like many, I chose the Aeromotive 13129 unit. This will allow for a short return line and a single line to the engine bay.
I installed the regulator on the 1" tube just forward of the tank. It took me a while to land on this location, but I think this will work well... it's easily accessible through the wheel well and even from underneath. I won't install the gauge in this location for obvious reasons, but I'll use one temporarily at the fuel rail schrader valve to set the pressure.
I made the bracket to accommodate four positions (upright, upside down, and on its side either way), as I want flexibility depending on how the flex lines go.
I've got the long block on the stand so I can replace the oil pan with the C6 Corvette unit as recommended by FFR. After that I'll bolt up transmission and test it in the chassis. I'm going to skip the clutch install during this step, because I'll likely need to pull the assembly out anyway to trim the Quicktime bellhousing. No sense doing that under the car if I don't have to.
I'm always amazed at how small these things are... power-dense for sure. This is the LS3 430hp.
TKX with the mid-shift kit installed by Forte (one less thing for me to do!). I'm interested to see if I'll need to trim the cross-brace on the transmission tunnel. We'll see.
Harness from PSI Conversions. I chose PSI over the GMPP harness because they offer the braided loom and the length is shorter and more appropriate for this car (oh, and it's about $500 less). It's a complete plug-n-play setup with a factory tune ECU.
I made a bracket for the fuse box. Somehow I missed that option when I ordered the harness, but no big deal to make one...
This is a harness for the dual fans. The engine ECU has two fan triggers - one at 187 degrees (I think) and the another at about 200 (I can't remember the exact temps. Anyway, this harness and relay setup is designed such that both fans will operate at half speed for the lower temp trigger, and then at full speed for the higher temp trigger. Reasoning is that two fans at half speed is quieter than one at full speed, and the amp draw is less. I shouldn't have any cooling problems.
When the time comes, you'll want to read into the GMPP fan control settings. They made it much more complex than it needed to be. Regardless, you'll have no issues cooling with two fans. I use the single FFR-supplied fan with a very tight homemade shroud and had no issues this summer.
When the time comes, you'll want to read into the GMPP fan control settings. They made it much more complex than it needed to be. Regardless, you'll have no issues cooling with two fans. I use the single FFR-supplied fan with a very tight homemade shroud and had no issues this summer.
Hey Bruce -- Thanks, I remember PSI mentioning something about this, and in fact I believe they made some adjustments to the cooling fan part of the tune. To your point though, I'll need to learn more so I know exactly how it's supposed to work.
I never planned on using dual fans, but I stumbled on the Ron Davis setup at a price that I couldn't pass up from a would-be FFR builder who had it made for a 1000hp LS and then decided to put that motor in his Chevelle and ditch the FFR project. Total and complete overkill.
Finally off the dolly, on to the temporary wagon wheels, and the engine ready to install. Well sort of -- the clutch isn't installed... I just want to check clearances and then remove to trim the bellhousing.
First, and as expected, I need to deal with the lip of the bellhousing that sits below the frame rails. I can deal with this a number of ways: 1) cut along the line in the picture as many do, 2) raise the engine a bit, 3) some combination of 1 & 2. I'm inclined to just cut it and move on. The alignment of the transmission to the rear end is very close and will only need a few minor adjustments, so I don't expect that to make a material difference in the height of the bellhousing flange.
No picture, but the bottom of the mount holes on the TKX sit about 3-3/8" from the top of the a-frame, so I'll need to use some spacers (I have some from Forte) on top of whatever transmission mount I end up getting. Likely this one.
Also no picture, but the external slave setup from Forte is not going to work. Quite unfortunate as it's a nice piece. The bracket will install fine, but there is noroom to mount the slave cylinder due to interference with the 1" tube. The Quicktime bellhousing is just too wide for this. So it looks like I'll end up with a Tilton internal unit. Not a big problem.
Lastly, and what I'm probably most excited about, is where the midshifter landed! I was fully expecting to cut the cross brace, but sometimes you get lucky.
First, and as expected, I need to deal with the lip of the bellhousing that sits below the frame rails. I can deal with this a number of ways: 1) cut along the line in the picture as many do, 2) raise the engine a bit, 3) some combination of 1 & 2. I'm inclined to just cut it and move on. The alignment of the transmission to the rear end is very close and will only need a few minor adjustments, so I don't expect that to make a material difference in the height of the bellhousing flange.
No picture, but the bottom of the mount holes on the TKX sit about 3-3/8" from the top of the a-frame, so I'll need to use some spacers (I have some from Forte) on top of whatever transmission mount I end up getting. Likely this one.
Also no picture, but the external slave setup from Forte is not going to work. Quite unfortunate as it's a nice piece. The bracket will install fine, but there is noroom to mount the slave cylinder due to interference with the 1" tube. The Quicktime bellhousing is just too wide for this. So it looks like I'll end up with a Tilton internal unit. Not a big problem.
Lastly, and what I'm probably most excited about, is where the midshifter landed! I was fully expecting to cut the cross brace, but sometimes you get lucky.
Lastly, and what I'm probably most excited about, is where the midshifter landed! I was fully expecting to cut the cross brace, but sometimes you get lucky.
I was the same, and I love the driving position with it. As the saying goes - I'd rather be lucky, because 'good' takes practice.
I was able to use the bracket and slave cylinder that Forte provided without issue. Maybe he changed something in the meantime.
Jim
Jim, I found a picture in your build thread and your bracket is completely different than what Mike made for me. That said, I don't think yours would fit either. It's puzzling because we basically have the same config, unless we're using different versions of the Quicktime bellhousing (although I thought there was only one part # for the LS) or your diagonal brace is located differently than mine. The flange of my bellhousing sits about an inch from that brace.
Jim, I found a picture in your build thread and your bracket is completely different than what Mike made for me. That said, I don't think yours would fit either. It's puzzling because we basically have the same config, unless we're using different versions of the Quicktime bellhousing (although I thought there was only one part # for the LS) or your diagonal brace is located differently than mine. The flange of my bellhousing sits about an inch from that brace.
I removed the engine to start getting it all assembled, and to take care of a few things in the engine bay prior to final install.
I decided to get the parking brake done, and I had a Lokar unit mocked up on the transmission tunnel. However I couldn't get the damn thing to work consistently and it was like a rattle trap, so I drove down to Summit to exchange it, thinking I just got a bad one. When I was at the counter I made a impromptu decision to go with an E-Stopp. Being relatively close to Summit is a blessing and a curse.
I really like the way Lidodrip setup his, so I copied it exactly.
I was able to get the accessory drive installed today. It was pretty easy, with the most time consuming part being the ATI damper install. I'm very impressed with the quality of this system.
Hey Terry, your accessory drive setup looks great!
When you had your engine in, did you check your driveshaft? FFR provided driveshaft #16038 with my order. Due to it being so short, I only had about 1 3/8" of engagement with the transmission output shaft. Most of the yoke was hanging out.
I contacted FFR and sent some pics. They have driveshaft #60175 on the way to me. My engine is still in for test fitting, so I will see how it lines up once it arrives.
Last edited by BRRT; 03-12-2024 at 08:01 AM.
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Jeff
Roadster delivered 8/27/23
Chevrolet Performance LS3 Build Thread
I was able to get the accessory drive installed today. It was pretty easy, with the most time consuming part being the ATI damper install. I'm very impressed with the quality of this system.
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and I was going to ask how you got the tool in there...
. And the alligator clips are for the Battery Tender.
Originally Posted by Jim Frahm
