I just got on the forums and with the help of members I have already read on the forums I can’t wait to start on mk4 coming next week.
I am a licensed electrician, power plant worker, and numerous other vocations. Retired and have restored or rebuilt numerous cars and motorcycles, I decided after turning 70 this is something I really wanted to do, so here I go on my mk4.
Welcome Bob24! You are going to have a blast building the car, and you can also gain a lot of new friends along the way. With all of your experience you are well equipped to handle this project.
Just got my mk4 unloaded, Eric was great, it was 11 degrees and then started snowing and had 1 inch of snow on the hill to the house. We made it just fine and boxes, truck and car on trailer are in the garage.
After reading and watching videos on removing body, I still had concerns about the flex, pulling out the sides etc. I knew I had to remove it so I put about a 4 ft 1x4 between the body and frame running from the floor to about the door hinge on each side in the door area and a brace from front to back on top center of body over cockpit area. My son and I picked it up went forward a little and took it off in about five minutes. Everyone was correct when they said the body is strong enough to not worry, just take it off.
After reading and watching videos on removing body, I still had concerns about the flex, pulling out the sides etc. I knew I had to remove it so I put about a 4 ft 1x4 between the body and frame running from the floor to about the door hinge on each side in the door area and a brace from front to back on top center of body over cockpit area. My son and I picked it up went forward a little and took it off in about five minutes. Everyone was correct when they said the body is strong enough to not worry, just take it off.
I have seen others use sections of PVC pipe also to hold the body sides away from the chassis to remove or install the body.
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
The Ron Francis wiring diagram shows adding a diode to the charging circuit on my 5.0 alternator to make it charge, does anyone have a picture or diagram of where to add this diode. I do not want to use the alternator light just the volt meter. Thanks
Installing engine today, got hood ready yesterday to cut out for scoop, have body drilled for all the lights. Have body marked for center from front to back. Tested dash wiring and the gauges. This is too much fun
If you have wiring problems, check that the plugs to the different harnesses match in their respective color coding when you plug them in. My front harness plug was reversed on the male side. And reset the inertia switch, then unplug it while working on other things so the fuel pump doesn’t run. Also while tuning you can plug the clutch switch in to the other terminals and start the car without holding in the clutch each time, set the parking brake.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Bob24
