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Stupid Question...... Body Buck
I was looking at the plans for the body buck and realized that there was no mention about the dimension (thickness 1/4, 1/2, 3/4) of the plywood used. So, after searching the forum and not finding anything I thought i would ask two questions:
1. What thickness should I use?
2. does anyone have an "advanced plan" for a buck they would recommend?
Thanks all for being patient with my "stupid question".
Craig
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Administrator
Craig where are you located?
FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)
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Senior Member
Just remember, the thicker you make the vertical supports the heavier it gets. And you're probably going to want to hoist it into the air at some point. The vertical end pieces don't need to be very thick as the load is vertical. And use particle board, MDF is too heavy. Don't ask me how I know.
If I was doing it again I probably wouldn't take the time and expense to build a buck, I would just use a couple of 2x4's through the wheel openings. I'm not convinced these fancy and elaborate bucks actually do anything, FFR just stores the bodies on the ground outside.
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Not a waxer
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Erie, pa
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Senior Member
Ditto what Jeff says on the casters. I bought 5" hard rubber casters for my chassis buck, and they worked great until I started getting some weight to my build with all the suspension bits. It gets hard to move around. I also had 4 swivel casters; I wish I would've only had two. I saved a few bucks on the casters vs true 8 or 10 inch pneumatic tires; if I had it to do again, I'd definitely spend the extra few bucks on pneumatics.
For my body buck, I also used 7/16" OSB...works just fine.
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago.
Got Corvettes out of my system, and now back after 18 years to build a MkIV.
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, 427 Stroker, Holley Sniper 2, Hyperspark, TKX, IRS, Wilwood Big Brakes
Here to learn, contribute, and have fun!
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I am starting planning for my build. I am not sure of the weight rating I should look for in a pneumatic wheel for a chassis dolly. Any recommendations?
Thanks, Andrew
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The wheels Jeff is talking about you can get at Harbor Freight. I got mine there a couple years ago for $20 apiece three years ago. might be a bit more now but very easy to move and they have brakes on them as well.
FFR 9883 MKIV ,427 Windsor engine
TKX 5 speed, Three Link 3.55 gears
Power Steering, Leather Seats
18" Wheels and Tires, Drop Trunk
Fun Package
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Hello, I can't figure out how to build a body buck for the MK IV Cobra, I'm willing to pay for a set of plans that I can read and understand, any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Mike
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
429 SCJ COBRA
Hello, I can't figure out how to build a body buck for the MK IV Cobra, I'm willing to pay for a set of plans that I can read and understand, any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Mike
Oldie but a Goodie. Should have everything you need for both. Modify as you like.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-MkIV-Roadster
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I used the plans that CV2065 shared for the chassis dolly and it’s worked great. I will say that there comes a point in the build where I’d be a bit uncomfortable putting too much weight on it (I’m at that point now, about to drop engine in).
If the actual question is around body bucks and not chassis dolly, I can’t recommend enough the solution I used. I bought 2 kayak hoists from Amazon and put them perpendicular to the wall in my garage. The kayak strap slips go through the wheel wells and the cockpit flex is diminished by using 2 2x4s between the cockpit walls. Super light and out of the way storage at the top of the garage, and you have 2 functioning kayak lifts after the build is done (rather than having to figure out who can take a body buck)
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
FDLWproject
I used the plans that CV2065 shared for the chassis dolly and it’s worked great. I will say that there comes a point in the build where I’d be a bit uncomfortable putting too much weight on it (I’m at that point now, about to drop engine in).
I’d suggest putting the wheels on before you install the engine. These Dollie’s are not meant for that much weight and it would interfere with the install.
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Originally Posted by
cv2065
I’d suggest putting the wheels on before you install the engine. These Dollie’s are not meant for that much weight and it would interfere with the install.
Agreed! That’s the plan. Bleeding the brakes and putting on the wheels, running the harness, and then done with the dolly before engine goes in
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