Great photo documentation... Thanks.
What Optima Battery did you install?
Thanks,
Carl
Visit our community sponsor
Great photo documentation... Thanks.
What Optima Battery did you install?
Thanks,
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
Today was mostly wiring up stuff. Not the things for great pictures. I wired up the all the circuits and tested them. I really like this self-canceling T/S module. Uses 2 momentary switches I got from Radio Shack. The longer you press the button the longer the T/S flash. Press both at the same time and 4-way flashers work. Very easy to install. 6 simple wires. Here is some photos of it. I used the same one on my Type 65. I wish I used this on my MK4. I may have to do a retro fit, LOL.
IMG_1006.JPGIMG_1007.JPGIMG_1008.JPG
For the last 3 days I have been working on this MK4 and a 818E. I was able to cover the dash and the 3 panels for the center console. I can wire it all up tomorrow for sure. Working on 2 cars at the same time can get a little hectic, but I can manage.
IMG_1013.JPG
I was able to wire up the dash and fan today. I added some gas and started up the 427. Sorry Bill, I know you wanted to be here for the start but you are out of town and I had to get along with the build. Here is a video. After fixing a slight fuel and P/S pump leak all is well.
Everything works as it should. Woo Hoo!
Last edited by wallace18; 08-18-2016 at 03:08 PM.
Thanks Tom for that clip. That is what I was hoping for.
Thanks to Mike Forte as well, great result. Bill
WOW!
Engine sounds great Tom. Bill, I know you must be happy to hear that sexy sound!
Great milestone, and so fun to see. Making great time on this build, and she looks great.
Regards,
Steve
Today I charged the A/C and set engine timing and idle speed. The A/C blows nice and cold. Heat works well too. Then I plumbed the defrost valve and Y-pipe. Also installed the defrost cable assembly. Make sure you always insulate all the low side lines in the car so condensation does not come back to haunt you, LOL. Then I plumbed up the A/C vent and center console with switches. I also installed the under dash LED lights. I hope to install the roll bars and the CV joints and sway bars tomorrow. Still waiting on rear springs and front and rear brake parts.
IMG_1015.JPGIMG_1016.JPGIMG_1017.JPGIMG_1018.JPGIMG_1019.JPGIMG_1020.JPGIMG_1021.JPG
Got a lot done today. I installed the L&R CV-Axles and installed all I could in the rear suspension. I also installed the rear sway bar and front one as well. I mocked up the roll bars. I actually drove it off my lift so I could change oil on my wife's BRZ and 570 EFI side by side. No brakes so I took it easy, LOL.
IMG_1023.JPGIMG_1024.JPGIMG_1025.JPG
Bill and Laura came by today to look, see and hear their MK4 at this point in the build. They were very happy with everything so far. Laura had questions about hearing each other driving. Of course she just heard their 427 with open headers, LOL. I gave them the keys to my MK4 with the breeze quiet pipes. They had a great drive and she was ecstatic about the car. She could not believe how smooth the car rode. Both had ear to ear grins on their faces. Bill can hardly wait for his to be done. But patience is key in building these I told him. Here is a photos of them in my MK4.
IMG_1027.JPG
Last edited by wallace18; 08-21-2016 at 07:55 PM.
After busting a part of my LF tooth with a 24MM impact socket Saturday I spent 3.5 hours at the dentist on Monday. The good news is I am fine now. Today I made the trunk rear cover I use to hide the seat belts and speakers. I think it trims up the trunk nice too. I also mounted Replicaparts trunk lifts and the horns. Also mounted the weather seal for the chassis to the body area. Waiting on some parts that should be here next week to be able to go-cart. This will allow me to install the FI on my MK4 in the mean time.
IMG_1028.JPGIMG_1029.JPGIMG_1030.JPGIMG_1031.JPGIMG_1032.JPGIMG_1033.JPGIMG_1034.JPG
Well the springs and some of the brake parts came the last few days. I was able to finish up the front brakes, rear springs, set ride height and do a preliminary front and rear alignment. Waiting on FFR engineering for new rear caliper hardware setup. Should be soon. Here is some pics.
IMG_1043.JPGIMG_1044.JPGIMG_1045.JPGIMG_1046.JPGIMG_1048.JPGIMG_1049.JPG
Looks like fun building all of these FFR kits and this is going to be another QUALITY build. Nice work!
may I ask, what tires (brand & model#) are those?
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!
Thank you VERY MUCH, NT555 G2 is what I've been looking at and about to pull the trigger. My Sumo's have about had it. Baby needs new shoes.
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!
Well, I must be addicted to your update posts, Tom, because I keep looking and now that it has been over a week since a post, I am experiencing withdrawal symptoms. Your shop didn't blow away in the hurricane I hope?
The Back ordered brake parts came yesterday. I painted them and installed the rear brakes, e-Cables and bled the entire system. My lovely wife Marsha is an expert brake bleeder helper, LOL. She has helped me with 7 different builds so far. Now we can go-cart it and have a alignment shop do a proper alignment on the car. I really do not trust my stuff to get it spot on. I can get it close but I want this perfect for Bill and Laura. Now the only parts we are waiting on are the door latches.
IMG_1054.JPGIMG_1057.JPGIMG_1056.JPGIMG_1058.JPG
Today I was able to go-cart Bill's MK4. Wow! Very powerful, loud and fast. I had Bill come over and test it out also. He took it nice and easy. His smile says it all. Here is a video and some pics next to my MK4.
IMG_1059.JPGIMG_1060.JPG
Took the go-cart to have the 4-wheel alignment today. When we got it home I took it for a good test run. All I can say is WOW!!!!. We put the body on it tonight. Going to get after it next week and hope to get it to Huegenics for paint by the first week of Oct.
IMG_1063.JPGIMG_1064.JPG
I had too watch the gokart video a couple of times. How exciting that must feel. I'm inching closer to that day!
It was great to get back working on the MK4. I first mounted the rear bumper bolts. Next I mounted the front overriders and Turn signal brackets. I add 2 10/24 screws with nuts to the brackets to have everything stay in place when it is time to put everything back together after paint. I also use all S/S fasteners. You can access the nuts for the rear bolts thru the tank plates above. I do not mount the bolts like the manual says. I put the nuts on the inside of the frame and the bolt or studs from the outside going in. No need to drop the fuel tank this way. I also mounted the front T/S ?parking lights. Then I fitted the hood, installed the scoop, hinges, struts and handles. Coming along very nice. Got some bad news the door latches are not due to come in till mid Nov.
IMG_1068.JPGIMG_1067.JPGIMG_1065.JPGIMG_1076.JPGIMG_1069.JPGIMG_1071.JPGIMG_1075.JPGIMG_1074.JPG
OK if you are building a MK4 or thinking of building one please pay close attention. I have been fortunate to build 7 FFR kits. One thing about this is that I made some mistakes but learned how to avoid some headaches. Here is my 2 cents worth on MK4 windshield installation. Be very careful installing the side bars screws. It is very easy to strip or cross thread them. You will most likely have to take them on and off several times. You will also have to install the windshield on and off the car several times to get everything correct. Follow the manual as far as how to install it. I pay to have FFR do the cutouts on the body when I purchase a kit, well worth it to me. Still you will have to open up the windshield holes some. Lay the trim part that covers the hole when finished on the slot and trace the outline. This will give you a idea of what you can trim without losing sealing. You will have to most likely trim about 1&1/2" to 2" off the bottom of the side supports to get it close to seating properly. Place the windshield in place and make sure you have a good seal on the black weather strip on the bottom to the body. See the critical area pic. Must have the windshield pushed down far enough to get this area sealed up good. Mark your holes for mounting and drill to 5/8" hole so you can make small adjustments later. Take out the windshield and take it all apart. Drill out the side bars on a drill press if you have access to one. Most important is to separate the chrome frame from the glass and install your sun visor clips now. As you can see in the photo the screws will protrude through the frame and Will crack the windshield if you do not remove the frame. I use a Dremel tool to grind the screws flat on the inside of the frame. Then I spray some silicone spray and assemble everything back. This will save you from having to buy another windshield, ask me I know,LOL. Use care with all screws putting it back together. I do not use the lock nuts at this point to bolt down the windshield. You have to take it off for paint later why make it hard on yourself, use plain nuts for now. Make sure the distance from the door opening to the top screw is 27"- 27&1/8" so you can install a soft top later if you decide to. Take these easy steps and you will have great results down the road. I hope learning from mistakes I made on my MK4 will help others down the road.
IMG_1087.JPGIMG_1077.JPGIMG_1078.JPGIMG_1080.JPGIMG_1082.JPGIMG_1083.JPGIMG_1084.JPGIMG_1086.JPG
IMG_1088.JPGIMG_1089.JPG
Here is the pics of the side measurement for proper soft top install later. 27to 27&1/8" from door opening to top screw.
IMG_1094.JPGIMG_1095.JPGIMG_1092.JPG
Awesome info, thank you. You answered a lot of questions for me that I didn't know to ask.
Got a lot of stuff done today. Windshield all done. I mounted and gapped the doors and mounted and gapped the trunk. Still a little left to finish up the trunk tomorrow. I know I shown this before but I mount the doors in the doorway. Then I use 3/16" tape around the door cutout area all around the door. Then I trace a black market to the tape. When I pull the tape off I am left with what I need to remove to get my 3/16" gap. I just sand down to the line and there you go. Just repeat for other door, trunk and hood. I really like Replicaparts trunk kit. It keeps it open without having to use a prop rod. Hopefully will have some door latches and hardware from WIS89 soon. Thanks again. Here is some pics.
IMG_1096.JPGIMG_1097.JPGIMG_1098.JPGIMG_1100.JPGIMG_1101.JPGIMG_1102.JPGIMG_1103.JPGIMG_1104.JPGIMG_1105.JPG
sorry if i am a little late to the game here. I think there is a simpler way to wire this in. I used an on/off toggle between the solid black and purple (L/R turn). this act as my hazard mode switch. i used a mom-on/off/mom-on toggle for the directionals. with the hazard mode "off" the directions work as normal. with the hazard mode "on" either direction with send a signal to both sides (thru the hazard mode switch) which triggers the module to hazards. another directional trip will shut them off. turn "off' the mode switch and you are back to regular operation. amazing how many ways there are to skin a cat!!
Looking great, like a car!
Today I finished up the trunk and installed the roll bars and grommets. Had some honey do's to do this afternoon so I will get back at it tomorrow.
IMG_1108.JPGIMG_1116.JPGIMG_1109.JPGIMG_1115.JPG
Today I mounted and wired all the lights on the car. I use Weather-Pac connectors on all of these. I also started to mock install the oil cooler . I have to fabricate a lot of the front aluminum due to use using the Breeze radiator mounts. But this way I can make sure all fits nice and tight to the body so all the air goes to the radiator. I am taking a few days off for my Anniversary. My wonderful wife Marsha has been my best friend and helper for 17 years on Sunday. God Bless her for putting up with all my car stuff. She is a keeper for sure!!
IMG_1117.JPGIMG_1118.JPGIMG_1119.JPGIMG_1120.JPG
33054.jpg
Had 3 free hours this morning. I mocked up the front and rear wheel well splash shields. I also make my own for the big gap in the front of the rear wheel wells as well. I make a card board template and transfer to aluminum. I attach it to the square tube that runs vertical with 1/8" rivets when paint is done and body back on. They will be coated with black truck bed liner material and have seals on the ends.
IMG_1123.JPGIMG_1124.JPGIMG_1125.JPGIMG_1127.JPGIMG_1129.JPG
Well the latches from WIS89 came UPS and I was able to install them. Thanks Steve. I also mocked up the oil cooler lines and finished up the aluminum in the radiator area. All will be coated black. I also mocked up the side pipes. I only have the mirrors and door bottom aluminum left to mock up. I will strip the car down some and take it to Huegenics on Friday for paint work.
IMG_1131.JPGIMG_1132.JPGIMG_1135.JPGIMG_1134.JPGIMG_1137.JPGIMG_1138.JPGIMG_1139.JPG
Today I finished up the aluminum in the lower door area and did the hardware drilling for the soft top. Car is ready to go to Huegenics for paint tomorrow morning. Here it is being loaded up ready to go.
IMG_1140.JPGIMG_1141.JPGIMG_1142.JPGIMG_1143.JPGIMG_1145.JPG
Looks great Tom. We will see you out there in the morning.
Tom-
I don't remember seeing it, but have Bill and Laura selected a paint (and stripe) color?
Everything looks great! You sure do nice work, and at a pace that exhausts me just reading it!
How long will it be at paint? Hopefully it will be back in time for some serious driving before it gets cool down there.
Regards,
Steve
They are going with a silver/gray color with black stripes. Should be done sometime in Nov. It never gets too cold to drive down here. LOL. Thanks again for your help.