P100DHG Build Thread - Gen 3 Coupe #138

[P100DHG]

I finished and torqued all the rear suspension to spec. I have it roughly aligned. The alignment shop can handle the rest. There are some discrepancies on the torque setting of the center section. The center section instructions state 100ftlbs which is what I used but the torque spec page says 129 ftlbs. What’s the consensus? FFR said use the appendix not the instructions. Anyway I’m feeling pretty good right now about where I am sitting.

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Looks like the studs I bought off amazon are working well. The downside to them, as is the downside to trimming the stud is that if I choose to swap the wheels at some point down the road I am going to be forced to change them because I’d likely order a wheel with the offset built in, thus negating the need for a spacer and a shorter stud. I’ll be keeping the longer studs that came with the kit. That said, installing them is going to require disassembling the entire rear brakes and hubs, no small task. I am overall impressed with the quality of the spacers, their fit and finish is worth the money. More on how they turned out later.

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It’s been a very productive and expensive week. All the parts came back from powder coat and they are a perfect match to the satin frame. All the loose parts and door frames (30 items in total) cost $350. I’ll have another batch as I discover stuff I missed to send out I’m sure. Additionally I got the tires mounted on the wheels and they are awesome. Toyo Proxies R888Rs 315 in the rear and 255 up front. I know a lot of guys are doing 275s in the front but I didn’t want to put too much tire on the front considering how sticky the rubber is on these tires. Sometimes too much front tire can strain the steering system and become darty on roads with ruts especially with tires this sticky. They are so badass. I have 35 x 12.5s on my 2018 GMC Sierra HD Denali with a 4” lift and those 315s are definitely as wide if not wider. The tires cost $1200 (I’ve got a guy) happy to share info if you are in SoCal.

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Finishing up the rear brakes I opted to go ahead and install the hand brake and cables. Since our current driveway has a pretty good slope and our new driveway does as well I think having a hand brake would be prudent for loading it on to a tow truck and into the garage for the anticipated house move. I ran into the same problem as Paul. The Dorman cables felt like they were going to be too short to reach the clevis. I over came this without an extension actually. By installing one side only and pulling the hand brake and releasing 3 times and doing the same for the other side I found enough slack to install both cables. With both installed I pulled the hand brake to the third notch and released 3 times. At that point I found enough slack to remove the cables from the clevis and tighten the clevis till I felt it had enough thread to be safe and strong. I found this to set the pads well and the rotors move with relative ease aside from the resistance from the center section.

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I too had an issue with the Dorman cable being too long to fit under the Wilwood brake mounting position and need to trim it slightly. I did find I needed to slightly widen the slot on the Wilwood hand brake cable mounting adapter. I did this using my drill press, an XY table and a milling head/bit.


So items to accomplish before the anticipated house move would be:
1. Install the sway bars (not crucial)
2. Mount the wheels (critical)
3. Install the steering (seems like a good idea)