I laid out in my Coupe build thread what I plan to do for the engine build, but here are the cliff notes:

Junkyard 2018 F-150 Coyote was picked up for ~$3200 from a wrecked truck. I plan to convert this to the same configuration as the Mustang Gen 3 Coyote, there is a twist coming at the end of this post (my teaser to keep you reading). What I found you need for the conversion:

Engine harness - The F-150 uses a MAP sensor (yes it's speed density tuned) and you'll need the Mustang engine harness to work with the FPCP
Timing Cover - Accessories are just arranged differently on the truck
Cam shafts - different firing order, plus they are wimpier than the Mustang GT units
Intake manifold - Plays nicer with the mustang engine harness and performance is better. I went with a GT350 unit, but the Mustang is probably better bang for the buck.
Timing phasers - They can either be replaced or re-marked for the Mustang timing. Check out this write up for more details: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post421587
Harmonic balancer - Only needed if you're running A/C. The truck has a 4 rib for the A/C and mustang kit requires a 6 rib.

That's it, that's what you NEED. This should cost in the realm of ~$1500 - 1700 for all those parts depending on availability and patient you are waiting for back order stuff. So depending on how much you can source an F-150 motor for that means you could be in the ball park of a Gen 3 for $5K. Now it would be a used motor so that adds risk plus this just gets you to where you're at with the crate motor configuration. You'll still need the alternator kit, low profile oil pan and pick-up, flywheel (if running a manual trans), FPCP, headers and so on.

Why might you want to go through all of this logistics you may ask?? Well, there is a chance to save ~$3-4K on a Gen 3 engine and unlike previous Gen Coyotes the Gen 3 shares more of the same parts with it's Mustang brother:

Compression ratio - same 12:1
Rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, wrist pins, bearings) - same exact part numbers
Heads - same
Valves, valve springs, followers, lash adjusters - all the same. With the exception of the cams and valve covers the whole head assemblies are identical.
Injectors, both DI and port - same
Fuel rail and all the DI stuff - same

As mentioned above the valve covers are different part numbers, but they both mount to the same heads and I believe (have not 100% confirmed yet) the only differences in them are mounting bosses for the wiring harness christmas tree push pins thingys. The main engine harness differences are in those areas dealing with CMCV configuration and the added MAP sensor that the Mustang does not have.

The oil pump is different on the truck, the gears are slightly thinner. If upgrading gears pay particular attention to this or get the mustang unit ($65 - $75) then upgrade with the thicker mustang gears. I imagine the thicker gears would provide a bit more oil flow.

What I did different from above:

Got a whole new timing set, there's a part number for it in the Ford Performance catalog. Not cheap, but on a used engine I felt it was prudent to replace. I got a whole host of new seals for all the cooling components, same logic with the used engine. Once I got the engine home from the junkyard I did find a lot of oil build up in the intake tract and actually found sludge in the oil pump, not sure it ever saw an oil change in it's short life and it may have had a bad PCV valve so that is also getting replaced. The pistons had what I considered pretty extensive carbon build up, I suspect it was an oil consumer which is a common F-150 Coyote problem. So I pulled the pistons and rods, cleaned them all up and will be installing them with a new set of Gapless ring from Total Seal. No issues with new rings on a used motor according to Total Seal since these gen 3 blocks have the plasma sprayed in cylinder liners.

Moving on, also upgraded to an ATI super damper since I needed one anyways. Went for an MMR lightweight water pump pulley and their secondary chain tensioner for the driver's side to properly tension on the slack side of the chain.

Lastly, the heads are getting a port and valve job on them. This is actually the last thing I'm waiting on before I can reassemble the engine. I'm staying with the stock head gaskets as they are good MLS pieces and can be obtained for ~$40 a piece which is a fraction of any aftermarket head gaskets.

OK, that was a lot so here's the twist. I'm exploring the possibility of putting in a voodoo crankshaft and having a hybrid voodoo/coyote engine. I pressed the test and ford happily sold me the crankshaft which is sitting in a crate awaiting it's fate, lol. This creates some challenges:

1. Firing order will have to change. I'm working with two different cam companies to see if they can make a custom set for this firing order. COVID has made all of these kinds of things move much slower and frankly I have plenty of time to export this before I need a running engine in my build. To deal with spark and injectors firing order, my plan is to re-pin the engine harness PMC connector to accommodate the new firing order.

2. Tuning...this is probably still the largest unknown at this time. I know there are fuel trims for left and right cylinder banks and re-pinning the harness could have some implications there, but I'm not sure to what degree. Theoretically with the flat plane crank firing order efficiency from one cylinder to the next should be much more similar since there are no firing events in a row on the same cylinder bank. If anyone has experience with Coyote tuning (Gen 3 with FPCP in particular) I would greatly appreciate them weighing in!

3. The listed stroke on the voodoo crank is 0.012 longer than on the Coyote. I believe a thicker head gasket will take care of this. Ford has a set of thicker head gaskets they dubbed for "rebuilds". I have yet to find out what the compressed thickness is of either the stock or this thicker head gasket. Again if anyone has knowledge on this please share! My calculations show the stock head gasket thickness to be in the ball park of 0.040, but this is just an approximation based on book engine specs that ford performance shared with me. If anyone wants those specs PM me and I can send you the document they sent me.

4. The unknown, unknowns...Let the spears fly! Am I off my rocker or does this seem like a seriously cool thing to try (obviously I'm in the latter camp at the moment)?

The good thing is if the Gen 3 Coyote with a flat plane crank doesn't workout I have everything I need (awaiting heads from machinist) to put it together and install in the car.

Cheers,
Patrick