Wedel456's Build Thread - Gen3 Coupe - North Carolina

[wedel456]

Now that all my panels are done, powder coating completed (at least for the 100 percent necessary panels at this point), the engine is on order, and I have worked out the switch and relay situation, I started thinking about how I wanted to run the wiring. After reviewing multiple builds, I decided I like the clean and hidden wiring path of @P100DHG and the Ron Francis location from @EdwardB.

Wiring Paths:

1. The Ron Francis wiring will be installed under the driver's side dash, with most of it being hidden by the custom panel.
2. The Ron Francis wiring will run through the upper right-hand corner of the custom panel into the back of the dash and then down through holes drilled through the left top side Front Top Transmission Cover.
   Electical Panel Location 1.jpg Electical Panel Location 2.jpg
3. All front harnesses will run down the transition tubing, then along the driver's side bottom frame rails, splitting to go out to the engine components (tach, oil pressure, water temp, etc.), and then to a split for the headlights and fan. This is the same wiring path as P100DHG. This is the optimal path if you are looking for the wires to almost completely disappear
4. The rear harness will go in the opposite direction, following the brake lines, then splitting to the left and right taillights and the required wiring for the sending unit and fuel pump.
5. The main battery feed, starter wiring, etc will run along the passenger side frame rail up through the transmission tunnel to Ron Francis MS-01, documented below.

Main Power Plan:

For the main power setup, I have decided on the following configuration:

1. Battery - I will be using an Odyssey PC925 battery for its compact size and reliability along with their terminal kit (could not find the PC925T with easy shipping and this ended up being cheaper). The terminals for both positive and negative will be soldered crimpless terminals and protected by covers (positive and negative)
2. Battery to Disconnect - A #2 AWG cable will run from the battery to the Ron Francis MS-01 disconnect located on the passenger side of the cockpit, near the transmission side panel.
3. Battery to Starter - On the same feed post of the disconnect, a #4 AWG cable will run to the starter.
4. Under Dash Power - On the switched side, I’ll be using a #6 AWG cable to power a 150A bus bar that will be installed somewhere inside the cockpit, behind the dash.
5. Battery Grounding - The main ground will be a #2 AWG cable running from the battery’s negative post to a grounded spot near the front corner of the engine bay on the passenger side. This will be accomplished by grinding away the powder coating and using a 3/8-16 flange head screw into a tapped hole for secure grounding.
6. Alternator - The alternator will be directly connected back to the battery using a #4 AWG cable through a mega fuse for protection.
7. Grounding Bus Bar - I will also install a grounding bus bar under the dash. This will be grounded to an additional location by removing powder coating and using a 3/8-16 flange head screw for a secure connection.
8. Under Dash Grounding - All electrical components under the dash, including lights, switches, and other accessories, will connect to a grounding bus bar to ensure a centralized, organized, and easy-to-manage wiring system.

Open Items
I am still looking for mounting locations for the CDI box (MSD 5520). Once that location is ermined I will need to decided on all the cables are run to the engine for monting. I plan on using as much as the Ron Francis wiring harness to connect into the CDI.