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Thread: Ron Francis / Eliminating remote solenoid

  1. #1
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Ron Francis / Eliminating remote solenoid

    Does anyone have pics of how they eliminated the remote solenoid when using the Ron Francis wiring harness? I'm planning a mini starter that comes with an attached solenoid. The RF harness that comes with the kit will not make it to the starter from the Driver's foot box, where the fuse box is located.

    I also have a dropped battery from FFMetal and a remote power switch in the back of the cockpit. I was talking with Jim Schenk and he suggested a remote power pole behind the dash. Does anyone have a pic of this?

    I hate wiring. My 1st build utilized an older I-Squared, which is the precursor to the ISIS system, so using my 1st build as a template doesn't work in this scenario...

    If anyone is willing to give me some tutelage I'd sure appreciate it!


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    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  2. #2
    Senior Member Bren's Avatar
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    I've got the same set up as you: RF wiring harness, no solenoid, mini-starter, dropped trunk battery box, cut off switch behind the cockpit (behind passenger's seat).

    I don't have any pictures as I haven't finished wiring, but the three big cables that originally go to the solenoid I bundled and soldered together into one side of a union, and then soldered a starter cable (6 gauge, I think) onto the other side of the union. That way, I only have one cable going to the starter from the RF harness. I plan on running a battery cable from the battery to the cut off switch, and then from the cut off switch to the starter. Not including any "extras" that need power, I'll only have two cables on the power terminal of the starter. It looks a lot cleaner.

    One thing I'll note is that you want the 6 gauge starter cable that essentially replaces the three cables on the starter side to be as short as possible. I don't know what kind of amperages go through those three wires, but the longer the 6 gauge cable, the less capacity it has.

    Also, the starter signal from the key switch will have to be lengthened to reach the starter. I just used a butt joint.

    I hope my description is good enough for you to follow, but I can post a wiring diagram if that will help.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    The remote power pole resembles a remote battery charging pole but has a stud and nut on each end.
    Doug

  4. #4
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    For most, the supplied solenoid serves only as a terminal block; I used a terminal block, much cleaner.

    Shown is the HAAT block; also have Hot in Start/Run and Ground blocks

    Power distribution bar per Kevin;s schematic 12-15-13.JPG
    Last edited by DaleG; 08-04-2014 at 09:10 PM.
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Tocoti's Avatar
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    I actually internally butchered my solenoid. It looks like a solenoid but it's a terminal block. I hated to do that to a perfectly good part, but if someone tries to hot wire my car they will be totally confused! Ha!

  6. #6
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tocoti View Post
    I actually internally butchered my solenoid. It looks like a solenoid but it's a terminal block. I hated to do that to a perfectly good part, but if someone tries to hot wire my car they will be totally confused! Ha!
    Nice trick.
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

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