King's MK4 Coyote Build

[2bking]

A couple of things I needed to do before the Lizard Skin application involved the trunk area and DS front bulkhead. I have the ISIS Power Cell, Mega fuses, and battery in the trunk but I hadn't completed the doors for these compartments. I made these doors (sorry, no pictures) with piano hinges and used the #8 screws and thread inserts to keep them closed. The DS foot box has some unused holes that needed to be plugged as well. I didn't like the flat block-off plates supplied so I made some with a better finished look. I machined some simple mating blocks with the different hole diameters to do this with and used a HF 10 ton press to form the plates. The large one had some stress in the outer edges that produced some potato chip waviness. The cuts relieved the stress and flattened out the edges. Here are the parts before installation:
DSCF4629d.jpg

I also formed the block off plate for the side slot. I used the factory supplied plate and formed it by hand using strips of scrap aluminum and a small hand press. It was fairly easy to do. Here are pictures of all the plates installed:
DSCF4631d.jpg

The Lizard Skin was next. The instructions indicate it will stick to bare aluminum but I opted to apply some aluminum primer to ensure a better adhesion. Sanding wasn't necessary before the primer but clean surfaces were needed. I used solvents to clean the parts and remove any silicone left behind around the seams. I masked the surfaces not needing the Skin and lightly primed them. I purchased the Lizard Skin spray gun for the application and a gallon of both sound control and ceramic insulation. The sound control goes on first if you are applying both products. The gun comes with a right angle tip for application on the undersides and I only used it on the PS foot box. The straight tip was used on all other places. Some drying is required between coats so it took two days to complete the job. The sound coat was applied to all panels but I only applied the ceramic insulation to the surfaces around the cockpit and heaver where the hot areas are known to be. It's a latex based product and easy to apply and clean up. At this time it's not completely dry but seem to have a hard durable surface. Of all the post about the product, no one seems to have complaints. Here are some pictures with and without masking:
DSCF4632d.jpg DSCF4634d.jpg DSCF4637d.jpg DSCF4639d.jpg

I can now start wiring and not have to dissemble the parts again.

[DaleG]

Blown away by your attention to detail, as always.

[2bking]

It's been awhile since my last post and I have made progress on the wiring. It's about 90% complete on the chassis. Since I’m using the ISIS wiring and Ford Racing Controls Pack, it isn’t quite straight forward how to integrate the two and replace the RF wiring that came with the kit. Needless to say, I’ve been digging through schematics and reading a lot.

The ISIS Wiring replaces some of the Controls Pack functions and I wanted to take advantage of the circuits in the Controls Pack that were left unused. The Controls Pack contains a Power Distribution Box that has six relays. Using the “One Button” start available in the ISIS wiring leaves the Starter Relay available for another function but requires some rewiring. The PDB contains these six individually fused relays:
1. PCM (Vehicle Power) Relay controlled by the PCM
2. Starter Relay controlled by the PCM
3. Fuel Pump Relay controlled by the PCM Relay
4. Fan Relay controlled by the PCM and externally
5. Intercooler Relay controlled by PCM and externally
6. AC relay controlled externally and through the PCM
The Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) originates and is fused in the PDB making seven fuses in the box. The KAPWR circuit powers the PCM memory and alternator. The Fuel Pump Relay function is replaced by the rear Power Cell and is available for another use. The Intercooler Relay is not used because the engine doesn’t have a supercharger. The PDB schematic is shown here:

PDB schematic.jpg

The need to redirect the outputs from these relays stems from the extra circuits needed to power the ABS, Wipers, and AC without having to add more relays and fuses. The Power cells have all circuits used for other non-listed functions. The AC Relay is controlled externally but the output is not wired into the Controls Pack Harness so I added the needed wire and it powers the AC Control Panel and Compressor clutch. I rewired the PDB to send the Fuel Pump relay output to the ABS and wipers. The starter Relay output is used for dash/gauge power I removed the Intercooler Relay and used a spade terminal to connect the input to the relay to the ABS un-switched 20 amp feed. The PDB is shown here before connectors are mated and cover installed.

DSCF4571d.jpg

Other than 50 amp circuit breakers on the inputs to the PDB and ABS and a 30 amp breaker on the AC blower motor, all circuits are fused either in the PDB or Power Cells. AS I said, the Fuel Pump Relay was replaced by a rear Power Cell output but the inertia switch needed to be made part of the circuit. The power cell has plenty of amps to drive the pump but the inertia switch isn’t design to be directly in the circuit. I added a latching relay and put the coil current through the inertia switch and fed the pump current through the relay contacts. When the inertia switch pops, the coil current is stopped and the relay opens stopping the fuel pump. The rear Power Cell is located in the trunk to the left of the battery and the mega fuses and Fuel Pump Relay are in the upper compartment with the flip top. The inertia switch is located between the battery and Power Cell.

DSCF4655d.jpg DSCF4656d.jpg

Continued next post

[2bking]

Grounding is always a problem if not well done so that a good connection is maintained over time and environments. All my ground points had the paint removed around the connection. For the battery ground I used a two point connection, one high and one low about 12 inches apart. I used these .25-20 screws which have teeth for pressing into a .250 dia. hole.
2014-09-19 15.16.25d.jpg

I used stainless washers under the nuts for a corrosion free interface. Ground points are shown here.
DSCF4667d.jpg DSCF4664d.jpg DSCF4669d.jpg DSCF4659d.jpg

The dash is removal and has connectors on all circuits. Some are shown here.
2014-09-19 15.19.12d.jpg

The dash and wiring is not finialized yet because it will be stripped to cover with leather and wood veneer. The indicator lights and hazard switch haven’t been installed as of now. I’m using LEDs for the indicator lights and a GM hazard switch.
DSCF4649d.jpg DSCF4650d.jpg

I installed the Coyote for routing the gauge wiring and finding wire lengths. While doing this, I discovered my wire routing plan was poor and needed rethinking to get protection from the radiant heat from the DS header. I made a three piece wiring tray that screws to the 4” tube so the wires can be placed below the tray and out of direct radiation of the headers. It provided a very clean path for hiding the gauge and ABS wires from the firewall to the front of the car. The tray is shown in these pictures.
DSCF4680d.jpg DSCF4681d.jpg

Continued

[2bking]

The wiring for fan, horn, and front lights are routed on the PS along the ¾” sq. tubing. I used the RF front harness and spliced in the feeds from the front Power Cell and PDB. I got the white screw-on clips from McMaster-Carr that the harness is tied to.
DSCF4646d.jpg

One more problem I needed to deal with was the mounting of the engine oil temp sensor. The Moroso pan has an oil level bung that has a strait thread and uses an O-ring to seal. Since the PCM doesn’t monitor oil level, the sensor is useless. I cut up the level sensor and threaded it for ¼” pipe. That allowed me to keep the O-ring seal and install the oil temp sensor. Pictures of the mod are shown below.
DSCF4671d.jpg DSCF4673d.jpg DSCF4675d.jpg DSCF4679d.jpg 2014-09-19 15.14.39d.jpg

[carlewms]

King,

Timely post ... this will help me with my grounding plans which are still to be done.

Thanks,

Carl

[clancypm]

I really like your gauge setup

[2bking]

I really like your gauge setup

Thanks clancypm! It's some extra work and I like the organization. The gauges are clustered instead of spread across the dash. By the way, is your first name Matt?

[clancypm]

no its clancy

[2bking]

Sorry, I exchanged email with another builder whose first name is Matt and he was wanting to know if golf clubs would fit in a roadster just before your thread showed up.

[2bking]

After reading some of the conversations about power steering and twitchy handling at higher speeds, I decided to add the Heidts valve now rather than cutting lines and re-plumbing later if needed. At first I tried to mount the valve on the frame but couldn't find a location that could be plumbed neatly. I decided to mount it close to the PS pump on the engine and worked out a location that simplified the mounting bracket. The PS pump is attached with three screws, two of which could also attach the mount. I purchased more hose ends and was able to complete the lines with the hose previously purchased. The pictures tell the rest of the story.

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[DaleG]

All very well thought out, and neatly done.

[2bking]

I've been working on a few details that needed to be done prier to the final install of the engine. One of those are the heat shields around the foot boxes. I purchased some .016 thick stainless sheet to make the parts. I cut out the patterns and bent them up. After a couple of hours of hand polishing, I got a mirror finish. I installed them using spacers I made from aluminum rod.

2014-09-216d.jpg 2014-09-217d.jpg 2014-09-218d.jpg

[DaleG]

Sooo Cool!

[2bking]

I out smarted myself when I found a GM hazard switch thinking I would incorporate it in my dash and eliminate the toggle switch. It was cheap, about 10 bucks. When it arrived, I quickly realized I had the replaceable part but the contacts and wiring were in the steering column of the intended car. The switch contained the shorting bars and the ball point pen mechanism for on and off but no mating contacts. I liked the switch so decided to design a mount with contacts for putting it in my dash. Here is the switch:
hazzard_sw.jpg

I design and made this mount for it. The brass posts are the contacts the mate with the shorting bars in the switch:
2014-09-310d.jpg

Then mounted the switch:
2014-09-313d.jpg

Here it is in the dash:
2014-09-311d.jpg

It took me a couple of days to complete it and it was a nice change of pace from the building. Now back to installing the Coyote.

[2bking]

I unpacked the Breeze radiator shroud, marked and cut the opening for the fan, and added 1/4-20 nutserts for installing it. I powder coated it black in oven but had to make an extended door to get it in. Its the largest part I have powder coated to date and it turned out very nice.
2014-550.jpg

Next, I unpacked the radiator and started to install it but it seems like every time I think I can start building by the manual, something goes haywire. I tie-wrapped the radiator to the cross member and it just didn't fit right and the mounting locations were off. I marked the center of the radiator and offset by 5/8" just like the manual instructed but it looked tilted in the frame. I got out the surrounding aluminum panels to do a test fit and DS side was way off from fitting close to the radiator. After some measuring, I found the cross tube for mounting the radiator was welded in crooked and backwards and the radiator had a slight warp. I can't fix the warp but I did add a spacer under the radiator flange to level it out. The first picture shows the tilt and the radiator warp is evident also. The next two are the mounting tubes. The PS has been trimmed to allow the radiator to fit on the short mounting tubes but the mounting holes on the radiator don't fall on the tubes as shown in the manual.
2014-541d.jpg 2014-542d.jpg 2014-543d.jpg

I thought I had all the needed parts covered for hooking up the hoses. I purchased the parts on the FF list as well as the ones Kevin (Bansheekev) listed. I printed the picture Kevin made of the lower radiator hose and tube and tried to make mine fit like his looked but my hoses were not quite the same. After fussing over it for several days and several trips to the auto supply store for different hoses, I got a combination that worked well and the hoses were not trying to kink in the bends. I did have to splice the one connecting to the bottom of the radiator to relieve a twist stress but the rest are close to Kevin's layout. I also used the Breeze support on the hose where it passes through the X brace for the front suspension.
2014-556d.jpg 2014-555d.jpg 2014-554d.jpg 2014-553d.jpg

The coolant tank mounting was easy for the upper mounting holes with a couple of simple brackets but when I mounted it, it was evident that a support at the bottom was needed. I did a little searching for ideas for the lower mount but turned up nothing so I fabbed up one that is probably similar to the factory one on the cars. I attached it to the fan shroud and the tank is very solid.
2014-544d.jpg

The hose connections to the tank were not straight forward as to what connected to the small upper ports. I searched several mustang parts lists for different years and a hose was connected to one or the other but never both. I connected one to the radiator. The FF instructions show capping the port on the engine where some of the hoses connected and the port on the tank would also have to be capped so I made a hose to go between the two but with a rod in it to block any flow. The hose from the tank to the engine is just for show.
2014-551d.jpg

Except for heater hoses, the radiator is plumbed.

[2bking]

The Coyote has a crank case vent on both valve covers and only one has to be used unless your state requires a vent to the intake upstream from the throttle body. In that case both vents have to be used and hoses for both sides come with the controls pack. The instructions with the engine says to place it in the upper half of the plenum close to the throttle body and on the inside of a bend if possible. The hose has a quick disconnect with o-ring seals in both ends and I didn't want to modify the hose. Some builders have cut out the port on the air box that comes with the engine and installed it in the large rubber tube connector at the throttle body. I opted for a new port to be installed in the 4" 90* elbow. I copied the dimensions on the air box port and made an aluminum one with pipe threads. The pictures tell the story.
2014-546d.jpg 2014-547d.jpg 2014-548d.jpg 2014-549d.jpg

[2bking]

I have the Whitby's AC unit with heater and the Coyote requires water circulation through the heater hoses when the heater is not in use. The AC comes with a solenoid controlled heater bypass but my controls require vacuum. The one I'm using fits a 99 ranger and probably a ton of other cars and has four connections. I wanted to hide it behind the engine but with all the hoses in and out of it, it was going to access problems for future inspection and repair. I decided to place it on the front wall of the AC housing and proceeded to make and find hoses. I needed 5/8" molded hose to make the bends so I looked through a local auto store and picked out several with candy canes, U bends, and Ls. Here is a picture of the first try of hoses before installing it.
2014-559d.jpg

I eventually had to replace the lower left hose with molded ones because it collapsed in the bends in the final configuration. I made the splice tubes from 3/4" solid rod and used four, one of which was a reducer for the factory 3/4" hose to 5/8".
2014-557d.jpg

I made a cover to hide the mess from some .04 thick aluminum and polished it.
2014-558d.jpg

The engine is now ready for the first start but I don't want to put fuel in the tank until some other tasks are completed. It should be soon though.

[MPTech]

Very cool build King.
I may have missed it, but did you install a radiator support on the bottom? Either a Breeze or custom piece (easy to build, especially with your skills).
Everyone seemed to highly recommend it and it was easy enough to fabricate, so I installed one (good peace of mind, so it is not bouncing around on the bottom and causing stress on the top).

Keep up the good progress.

[2bking]

Very cool build King.
I may have missed it, but did you install a radiator support on the bottom? Either a Breeze or custom piece (easy to build, especially with your skills).
Everyone seemed to highly recommend it and it was easy enough to fabricate, so I installed one (good peace of mind, so it is not bouncing around on the bottom and causing stress on the top).

Keep up the good progress.

I almost purchased the Breeze support but it seemed to rely on friction at the strap mounting points to provide support which to me didn't look very structural. So, I was in the process of designing a lower support but didn't know exactly where the bottom of the radiator was supposed to be located so I consulted the build manual. I got out the nose sheet metal and started piecing it all together. I discovered the lower flange on the radiator gets riveted to the sheet metal across the nose which in turn is riveted to the sheet metal on either side of the radiator. With it all cleco'ed together it seemed to provide very good support. The build manual doesn't show installing these pieces until after the body is on so I can see how a lower support is needed until then. After that it seems to be redundant. The weakest part of the sheet metal is the connection of the side parts to the nose so I decided to add a doubler there but I haven't done it yet.

I am concerned about the difficulty in replacing the radiator if the need occurs. With the body on work space is limited thus making the job of drilling and riveting difficult. I have read many threads regarding leaking radiators so that time may come.

[MPTech]

I almost purchased the Breeze support but it seemed to rely on friction at the strap mounting points to provide support which to me didn't look very structural.

not clear what you mean "rely on friction", the support runs across the bottom of the radiator and the radiator sits on it, taking the stress off of the top tab mounts and preventing it from bouncing around.
I made mine and I know you can too. pretty simple. also very easy to remove (2 bolts easily accessed from the bottom).

this one: #70551 - Lower Radiator Support Kit

[2bking]

not clear what you mean "rely on friction"

I was referring to the bolts in the slots where the strap could both rotate and slide. Perhaps it works better than my first impression. Are you also riveting the sheet metal to the lower flange on the radiator?

[2bking]

I had lots of anticipation going into this event, cleaned out the bay and staged fire extinguishers and water hose just in case but as it turned out, it just happened without much to talk about except it started and ran. Oil pressure same as others had reported, 100 psi on start and slowly went down as engine heated up. Radiator fan came on about 185* on temperature gauge. No fluid leaks.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/zxvdnv5s1...sjlIG6Hilhvcxa

The phone didn't capture the exhaust noise very well. At idle it was quieter than I expected coming straight out the Stainless Headers without the side pipes but it got loud when blipping the throttle. The car is on jack stands so I checked the hydraulic clutch operation; it released at 2/3 of pedal travel. I went through some of the gears and had no unexpected vibrations or noise. When checking the power steering with steering wheel inputs, it immediately went to left hand lock., a sign the hoses were reversed. After letting the engine run about 10-15 minutes, I reversed the hoses and restarted the engine and steering worked as expected. All in all, it was a good day.

[jceckard]

I guess the Coyote scared the Ranger a bit. Nice work!

[jayguy]

Sounds great! Great work, can't wait to see the go-kart video!

[WIS89]

King-

Awesome news! I have been following along quietly, and have been impressed as always. Congratulations on the uneventful first start; certainly not a bad thing! She sounds awesome!

Regards,

Steve

[dallas_]

King,
Nice to meet you today, thanks for taking the time to show me your build. I'm really impressed with the thought behind everything and with the high quality of work you are doing.

Really, really nice work. You will have an exceptionally nice car when you are done.

Hope you will join us at the the TCC monthly meetings. Look for the notices on the Club Cobra under the Texas Cobra Club sub-forum. We meet the first Saturday of every month.

Take care,
John

[Jester]

Great work King

FWIW: I installed my oil temp sensor in a similar bung however the oil temp only rises to levels that register on the gauge in stop and go traffic on hot summer days. In heavy stop and go traffic the oil temp matches the water temp otherwise when driving even in 90 deg temps the oil temp does not register. After seeing the oil temp match the water temp in stop and go traffic the oil temp quickly drops with increased speed. Either the oil temp remains low on the fringes of the oil pan or the larger pan is very effective at keeping the oil cool. I am considering installing a longer temp sensor.

[Jester]

I've been working on a few details that needed to be done prier to the final install of the engine. One of those are the heat shields around the foot boxes. I purchased some .016 thick stainless sheet to make the parts. I cut out the patterns and bent them up. After a couple of hours of hand polishing, I got a mirror finish. I installed them using spacers I made from aluminum rod.

2014-09-216d.jpg 2014-09-217d.jpg 2014-09-218d.jpg

Very nice.

Note: I used insulation and an acoustic layer (no heat shields) and little if any engine heat is transferred to the cockpit. Even comfortable at 90 deg + if you like the sun and hot ambient temps. I do have a cool air duct system installed which is great a keeping the air moving.

Keep up the posts

[Jester]

I almost purchased the Breeze support but it seemed to rely on friction at the strap mounting points to provide support which to me didn't look very structural. So, I was in the process of designing a lower support but didn't know exactly where the bottom of the radiator was supposed to be located so I consulted the build manual. I got out the nose sheet metal and started piecing it all together. I discovered the lower flange on the radiator gets riveted to the sheet metal across the nose which in turn is riveted to the sheet metal on either side of the radiator. With it all cleco'ed together it seemed to provide very good support. The build manual doesn't show installing these pieces until after the body is on so I can see how a lower support is needed until then. After that it seems to be redundant. The weakest part of the sheet metal is the connection of the side parts to the nose so I decided to add a doubler there but I haven't done it yet.

I am concerned about the difficulty in replacing the radiator if the need occurs. With the body on work space is limited thus making the job of drilling and riveting difficult. I have read many threads regarding leaking radiators so that time may come.

King: FWIW, I used a piece of the thick bulb seal on the front of the lower rad mount aluminum where it meets the body and I used riv nuts to attach the aluminum plate to the lower rad. This is now a removable mount plate with a ~ friction fit to the front of the lower rad opening of the body. The rad is sung with no noticeable vibration (eliminated by the thick bulk seal) and no rivets are required (no holes into the body).

Good luck

[carlewms]

King,

Looks and sounds great! Congratulations on the first start.

Carl

[2bking]

I guess the Coyote scared the Ranger a bit. Nice work!

It did and the Ranger doesn't have an alarm.

[2bking]

King,
Nice to meet you today, thanks for taking the time to show me your build. I'm really impressed with the thought behind everything and with the high quality of work you are doing.

Really, really nice work. You will have an exceptionally nice car when you are done.

Hope you will join us at the the TCC monthly meetings. Look for the notices on the Club Cobra under the Texas Cobra Club sub-forum. We meet the first Saturday of every month.

Take care,
John

Thanks John for the kind words. I'll try to make the next TCC meeting.

Great work King

FWIW: I installed my oil temp sensor in a similar bung however the oil temp only rises to levels that register on the gauge in stop and go traffic on hot summer days. In heavy stop and go traffic the oil temp matches the water temp otherwise when driving even in 90 deg temps the oil temp does not register. After seeing the oil temp match the water temp in stop and go traffic the oil temp quickly drops with increased speed. Either the oil temp remains low on the fringes of the oil pan or the larger pan is very effective at keeping the oil cool. I am considering installing a longer temp sensor.

Jester, I think I'm going to see similar results. While idling, when the fan turns on the oil temp is barely off the peg at 140* and never get any higher.

[2bking]

I added the Lucas wiper motor but not exactly where it was intended to mount. When I filled up that area with the Infinitybox Power Cell and Mega Fuses, I had a plan for an alternative mount. It's good to be able to work in CAD to make things fit before mounting them. But when you see the picture, one thing stands out and that is windshield mounting access. I had decided early on I wanted to make a tilt front end but was on the fence. I contacted Dallas (John) and he graciously agreed to bring his car (it has the tilt front) and meet me. From our conversations I decided it was going to happen and I knew access to some of my mods was marginal without it. In the next few weeks I will start the process of cutting the body.

2014-11-11 13.jpg 2014-11-11 26.jpg

[dallas_]

Finally, another tilt front in Texas!

It sure makes access to everything easier.

John

[DaleG]

I added the Lucas wiper motor but not exactly where it was intended to mount. When I filled up that area with the Infinitybox Power Cell and Mega Fuses, I had a plan for an alternative mount. It's good to be able to work in CAD to make things fit before mounting them. But when you see the picture, one thing stands out and that is windshield mounting access. I had decided early on I wanted to make a tilt front end but was on the fence. I contacted Dallas (John) and he graciously agreed to bring his car (it has the tilt front) and meet me. From our conversations I decided it was going to happen and I knew access to some of my mods was marginal without it. In the next few weeks I will start the process of cutting the body.

2014-11-11 13.jpg 2014-11-11 26.jpg

Clever!

[2bking]

I read a lot of posts about steering racks and new FF spindles and the redesign to eliminate bump steer so I'm thinking the rack extenders are not needed. I'm using a reconditioned stock mustang power rack, Duralast p/n 6439. I have two assembly manuals with slightly different instructions when installing the rack. One says the tie rods on the mustang power rack will have to be trimmed, the other says "inner tie rod extensions are for the stock power rack only". I have the Assembly manual with the trim instructions at the shop so when I assembled the steering components, I expected the rack to be too long. When I initially adjusted the toe, the rod ends only had three or four threads of engagement of the tie rods which left me feeling a little uneasy. I purchased the Breeze 1" rack extenders so the thread engagement would be increased another inch but thinking this will also mess up the steering geometer.

I removed the clamps holding the bellows to the steering rack end by forcing open the crimp;
Before DSCF4703d.jpg After DSCF4702d.jpg

After removing the bellows I checked for the retaining pin that secures the inner tie rod end to the rack but being a rebuilt rack it didn't have one. I tried to unscrew it but it wasn't going to budge.
DSCF4697d.jpg

I knew the rebuilders used Loctite when the rack was rebuilt so a little heat was needed to defeat the locking compound. I heated the rod end until a hint of smoke came from the grease and the end spun of rather easily.
A little heatDSCF4698d.jpg Rack and tie rod separatedDSCF4699d.jpg

The rack extenders came with Loctite for assembly so I applied it to the threads and screwed the parts together.
DSCF4700d.jpg

After assembling both left and right ends I centered the rack to see where the rotation axis of the inner tie rod was in relation the upper and lower a frames. The least amount of bump steer would be when all three are inline and by the looks of this picture they are pretty close.
DSCF470d1.jpg

For a second check I used a laser mounted on the wheel parallel to the axle and pointed at the wall about six feet away. When I moved the suspension through its travel, the laser traced a near vertical line that showed about 1" of tilt which indicates less than a degree of bump steer through the full suspension travel. I think the Assembly Manual should clearly state the use of 1" rack extenders are necessary when using the stock mustang power rack. Otherwise, the parts can be assembled but be unsafe.

[jceckard]

Thanks for the detailed explanation (with pictures even). Do you need to replace the bellows with longer ones?

[2bking]

Thanks for the detailed explanation (with pictures even). Do you need to replace the bellows with longer ones?

Being a rebuilt rack, I think they had universal fit bellows and looked to have a better fit after I installed the extenders.

[2bking]

I'm almost ready for that first Go-Kart ride but I need to install the seat and side pipes. The seat is a bit of a problem because I'm using the FF seat adjuster and there are no assembly instructions. The seat adjusters and hardware are shown here:
DSCF4709d.jpg


The seat pan on the MK4 is too far forward for attaching all four mounting studs and doesn't extend inboard far enough to allow the adjuster to be fitted to the inside rail on the seat frame. I taped off the mounting area of the pan below the aluminum floor and the location of the 2"X2" frame member toward the rear where the seat will sit. I added the tape strip that represented the maximum spread the adjusters could have so the studs on the rails could have wrench access from below. The inboard strip parallels the outboard edge of the 4" main frame tube while the outer strip is the outer seat frame tube.
DSCF4705d.jpg

I adjusted the seat rails to the max rearward indent and laid them on the tape map to find possible mounting hole locations. I also placed a piece of tape where the forward most mounting hole on the seat frame could be placed. What I found was there was no position that would allow the seat to be adjusted fully rearward without one of the mounting studs to be placed in the 2"X2" frame tube and the inboard seat rail would be almost centered under the seat. The oval marks show where the rear studs need to be for full rearward adjustment.
DSCF4711d.jpg DSCF4718d.jpg

I compromised and placed the rear studs just forward of the 2"X2" tube but I needed more structure to mount them to than the aluminum floor. I made these brackets to attach to the 2"X2" tube.
DSCF4713d.jpg and powder coated them black DSCF4714d.jpg

Because the rear studs had to be just outside the 2"X2" tube and the rails parallel, that forced the rails to be parallel to the main frame tubes. The seat needs to be angled to place my body in front of the pedals so it will need to mount to the seat frame crooked. Having one of the sliders under the middle of the seat left the rear mounting hole without anything to attach it to. I made a short piece from some scrap 3/4"square tube and riveted it to the seat frame with steel rivets. Just about the full weight of the seat and body are on this part so I may weld it later before final assembly.
DSCF4720d.jpg

The rails needed 1/4" spacers between the seat and rails to keep the adjusting mechanism from interfering with the seat frame. I made these spacers to go there.
DSCF4716d.jpg

The remainder of the pictures are self explanatory.
DSCF4722d.jpg DSCF4726d.jpg

The seat has about an inch of clearance to the rear sheet metal when adjusted to the rear most position so I will use the space to tilt the seat back by remaking the spacers.

Now I will hang side pipes so I can have that Go-Kart experience.