What size wheels and tires are you currently using? Rubbing has been a big problem for the 818 unless you use specific sizes. 215/40/17 is the tire size recommended by FFR, and it barely fits. The wheel width and offset also will impact it.
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What size wheels and tires are you currently using? Rubbing has been a big problem for the 818 unless you use specific sizes. 215/40/17 is the tire size recommended by FFR, and it barely fits. The wheel width and offset also will impact it.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
15.jpg18.jpgthe tires currently on the car are the donor's , I quite honestly don't even know. I have a set of the FFR rims , I know they are larger then current so I will have to deal with this issue.
here are the rubbing pics.
I spent the weekend working on the brake lines. Got them all completed and decided I did not like the way they looked so I ripped them out. I am practicing bending lines until I like my results.
I am really looking for perfection and that is impossible.
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I'd suggest picking up some copper nickel brake line, it is a lot easier to work with, can be cut to length, won't rust and allows you to go with metric brake fittings instead of using those SAE to metric adapters. This will however require a brake flaring tool and metric brake fittings.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-325-3-16...101752&vxp=mtr
http://store.fedhillusa.com/22nutpack.aspx
I started the front brake system and noticed a large gap under my master cylinder. I had to stop the brake lines and remove the master cylinder because I left off the cover plate. 2 steps forward , 1 1/2 steps back. need to powder coat it and reinstall master cylinder. Liked another posters idea of using 90 degree hose as rear transition for the cooling tubes. 730151.jpg730152.jpg730153.jpg730154.jpg730155.jpg
finished the cooling tubes, I like the way it looks with the 90 degree bend in the rear. I secured the front flex tubes to the frame away from potential contact with battery ( thanks Tamra). I completed the brake and clutch lines, but I am still not happy with the way the lines run and bend in the rear. I will be changing that. I attached the gas pedal direct to the front firewall using part of the supplied ffr brace . I tried to line it up as best I can with the predrilled hole. it is off and
will probably drill my own hole that lines up more centered with the pedal. Anyone feel that will be an issue?
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I purchased Marson RN-1 rivnut setter. It was less than $100.00 with different size mandrels. Having the ability to remove a piece and replace it seems to me a better option than the rivet.
Looking good. A good riv-nut tool is WELL worth the price. I've used mine a lot already and mostly for modifications on things I've added that didn't come with the kit.
Just an aside. If you will be putting it on the road, you might check your state requirements on brake lines. Here in CT, they specify steel. I had started down the copper nickel route until advised otherwise. If you already checked your state out well, never mind and keep having fun with the build!
" That which is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce
SN 46 In the building 10/4/13.
Go Cart 10/20/16
Coupe Conversion
EJ205 Wagon donor
I am using the ffr lines
I believe they meet nj regs
I have been through the nj licensing on an electric conversion, it's the same process.
You need to make sure everything is secure and nothing hanging.
They are nuts for leaks and lights
Looking good. You may want to check your clearance on the brake master cyl. top line. That area is crucial in the fitting of the windshield fiberglass cowl. In my experience this has to be just right for it to work. You may be OK but it is worth a check IMO. Keep up the good work!
need as much help as there is to offer. I thought I was done with the brake and clutch lines until I pumped the system with air and put soapy water at each connections. Quite a bubble bath.
depressing to say the least. I guess I am not as good as flaring brake lines as I thought.
pulled off all the lines and will start from scratch. I guess I will try to make all bends and connections with as long of lines that I can fine with flared ends.
I to went through the leaky brake line phase.
Tried 2 or 3 cheap flaring tools. Same results.
Bought an Eastwood
http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html
Two 818 with abs. About I'm 32 for 32 flares.
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Read the old threads, almost everyone has a problem using the old style double bar flare tool, I wasted many pieces of brakeline... and with my early kit they didn't even send the correct lengths so that you had to cut them. I gave them a list of the exact lengths req. in September of 2013!
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
work continues while I await the new brake flaring tool from Eastwood. I got lucky as it went on sale right after I purchased it and they honored the sale price.
Fuel Filter and water overflow tank installed. Placing and trying to figure out shifter placement. I had all aluminum pieces powder coated so things are really tight and need to be filed to fit.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg
As I am awaiting replacement brake hardware to repair the errors I made, I was able to move ahead with a few other items. I installed degas tank and secured radiator. Ran fuel lines. Trying to get correct shifter location and install transmission tunnel. Looks like that needs to be adjusted with grinder.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I needed to trim lots of things on my center tunnel sheet metal, mostly the little tabs that hang down.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
It never rains in Southern California :cool. Lol
http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrBT...iBoMgnRFtYbdc-
I'm cursed with remembering insignificant trivia.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Well, let's hope the El Nino does come this winter... we need water!
I think I can get away with not weather-proofing my 818, as our rain patterns are pretty predictable. As long as the Quattro's not in the shop during rainy season, I'll be OK!
Anyway, sorry for the hi-jack, back to insurance guy's build...
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
The shaft on the back of the trans should rotate freely but with some spring force to pull it back to middle position.
1. Did you try changing gears in the donor? Did it work then?
2. How are you moving the shaft? Using the FFR shifter and cables? Try rotating the shaft by putting a screw driver through the hole in the shaft and twisting it.
Last edited by STiPWRD; 08-21-2015 at 02:16 PM.
There's three in/out positions. In, nuetral, out. It can be difficult to pull it by hand and get it to the middle position as it likes to jump all the way in or out. It only rotates in the middle.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016