FFR is working with PowerNation doing a 2.3L Ford Ecoboost in an 818. What transmission are they using in this build, CV shafts/joints? Any changes related to rear hubs ect. Will FFR be making this an option on the kit ordering page?
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FFR is working with PowerNation doing a 2.3L Ford Ecoboost in an 818. What transmission are they using in this build, CV shafts/joints? Any changes related to rear hubs ect. Will FFR be making this an option on the kit ordering page?
last i heard they are still going to be using a suby trans... 5/6 spd i don't know...
What are they going to do if anything with regard to those (AEM 818) snapping all those axles on his autocross launches?
They have and adapter plate. It looks really slick. You utilize sti clutch/flywheel. Jim and I have been discussing it. They are about ready to fit it in the car to see what changes need to be made, if any. It looks really promising for track cars.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 10-27-2015 at 02:38 PM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Thanks for this---- but, I see some of my own humor launched right back at me! LOL
So is the STI transmission going to be used, because it seems that the 5 speed will have a hard time handling the torque of the ecoboost?
I can do anything with enough time and money.
The 5 can handle the ecoboost, let's not forget the Subie motors make the same if not more torque
The advantage of the ecoboost for racing is yet to be fully determined, but it maybe a more reliable option if it can get the charged air cooled enough, and possably have better oiling cooling options. The main problem with the 818 is the charged air getting cooled down to safe temps to make the motor last. The Subaru motors lasted pretty damn good in all there championship Rally cars but the configuration helped with there longevity. I still think for a race 818 a NA motor will be the best option. I built Fa20 with 250whp and a lighten 818 would rock
Last edited by metalmaker12; 11-04-2015 at 06:02 PM.
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207
Here is a Rossian Q1R on eBay with a 2.0L ecoboost. 323HP in an 1800 lb. car. Maybe we can package the same performance in an 818R for 1/3 the cost.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Rossion...m=201457750233
Met with Jim at FF SEMA booth. The ecoboost fits in the 818, but you have to cut the top V bars because the engine is so tall. The bad news for me, the kit is just for the 6speed. The stock 5spd flywheel won't work. There is a nice adapter they made.
Also found out their R has the same dry sump as mine, a built motor from Element, and NO oil coolers..... Also he told me to block off the heater core and no longer use the Upipe they provided......... Did I miss something in a manual update????
Regardless- someone buy my 818R.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I'm curious how cutting the top V bars would be attractive to anyone. I was planning on going with a 2.3L and no donor, but I need to learn more about this. I guess we'll see how the 2.3 build shakes out over the next few months and certainly before I receive mine in the summer.
FFR Build Status: Reset button hit
'03 Subaru Impreza eSi RHD...because Japan
You can have a flywheel made for anything, not a big problem. I ahd my 3.5 made in Anahiem
I thought we had determined that blocking the heater core lines caused heads to overheat?
I still think your problem is the motor chad, not everything around it.
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With the thermostat open the coolant goes through the engine it has choices on where it goes next.
One choice is through the heater bypass u-pipe.
The other choice is through all the piping to the front radiator.
There is a 3rd choice of a small tube that goes through the turbo.
Maybe to much water was choosing the path of least resistance and not putting enough water through the radiator.
I worry about totally blocking off the heater bypass as that hot water is used to open up the thermostat.
( maybe they don't run a thermostat in the race car)
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
It doesn't have anything to do with my problems. I was just sharing a tidbit of information that no one shared with us builders. Jim said he tapped them and put a bolt in them I believe.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I definitely don't have heater core in my LGT. I do have a bodacious heater next to me, a dry sump tank!
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
I blocked those heater core lines off myself early on. Seemingly no issues on the coolant side.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Only way I get the updates is by the forums. I haven't received an email of one yet (including what would've been really helpful "R supplemental information").
What would be great is a 2.3L vs. 2.0/2.5L pros/cons list from a build perspective. I'm sure its only a matter of time, but the waiting sure is hard. Would love to see it before I write the final check...
FFR Build Status: Reset button hit
'03 Subaru Impreza eSi RHD...because Japan
2.0/2.5
-Pros
-IT FITS!!!
-It works perfectly fine depending on condition of donor and degree of build you want
-Comes with the donor which most people opt for doing
-Huge aftermarket that support this motor
-It has already been proven for numerous years in the subie community
-COST, depends on your budget
-Low CG
-OEM ecu works in this setup, no need for a stand alone to get the car running
-iWire harness can get you through the wiring issues
Cons:
-A2A hasn't been perfected yet
-Used engine
-Old engine design
Ecoboost:
Pros:
-Crate Engine
-Newer tech
-Ford motor, the American muscle, brand loyalist I guess
Cons:
-COST
-Availability
-Fitment - doesn't fit without frame modification
-Need different intake manifold
-Need standalone ECU, OEM one doesn't work
-Only mates to the 6spd sti trans... more cost
-Higher CG
I can think of more most likely but these came to mind.