No water or oil temp ?!?

[David Hodgkins]

Hey guys, I have a problem. I went for a short drive on my newly rebuilt roadster and the water and the oil temperature Never came up on the gauges. This was an electrical and cosmetic refresh and I never touch the drivetrain. There was no problem before I started this project. I ran a test tonight and The water thermostat opened but the temperature of the fluid only radiated out instead of cycling. In other words, The upper water hose started to get warm but the radiator didn't. Like my water pump isn't working. I think I've got two different problems here. Or do I?

Help?

PS sorry for the typos this is Siri's problem not mine !

[Gordon Levy]

Check your guage grounds

[ryanmac]

+1 on gauge grounds. I like to use a multimeter set on continuity (beeps when circuit complete) and touch ground connections to known good chassis grounds or negative battery terminal.

Other issue could thermostat stuck open, causing motor to run cold.

[David Hodgkins]

What's wrong with this picture?



EDIT: I forgot to mention that I had a secondary problem, in that the car spewed fluid. I think I can put that problem to rest...

Thanks, guys, I'll check the gauge grounds.

[David Hodgkins]

More info:

I think I didn't warm up the motor all the way. Upon further testing, the cooling system seems to be working effectively, including the fan kicking on. The gauges simply are not reading temp.

I'll check grounds.

[CraigS]

Also check power to the gauges. The senders are variable grounds so the gauge needs power too.

[frankeeski]

What's wrong with this picture?

To answer your question. What's wrong is that you are using a temporary rubber cap where a permanent threaded pipe plug should be used.

[David Hodgkins]

To answer your question. What's wrong is that you are using a temporary rubber cap where a permanent threaded pipe plug should be used.

Threaded pipe? Is the nipple underneath threaded?

[Norm B]

Threaded pipe? Is the nipple underneath threaded?

That depends on the water pump. Some are threaded and some press fit. Yours appear to be press fit. The threaded ones normally look like the ones in the picture. You could get this from Breeze. If you are using the heater port on the intake manifold for your computer ECT it will be more accurate.http://www.breezeautomotive.com/deta...=464&cat_id=17.

HTH

Norm

[frankeeski]

Threaded pipe? Is the nipple underneath threaded?

I like the Breeze solution, However, the nipple that's in there can be drilled out and tapped for threads. This solution is more permanent but does require removal of the water pump so metal shavings and debris don't get into the cooling system. I don't like posting links to facebook but I don't feel like uploading the picture right now. Look for the blue anodized plug on the water pump in the middle of the picture.
https://www.facebook.com/89165005420...type=3&theater

[Jeff Kleiner]

My solution: remove the nipple by collapsing it inward on itself and then install a freeze plug. No tapping necessary. I have 4 or 5 cars (including my own) running around like this---no leaks, no worries

Jeff

[j.miller]

He said..."nipple".....mmm, I'm tellin!

[GoDadGo]

"Nipple"

he, he he hee heh hehe he he!
hhhe, hee, he, hee, he.
Shut Up Beavus!

Works Cited: Mike Judge >>> B. & B.H. Creator

[AC Bill]

To much Teflon tape on the sender threads preventing a good ground, perhaps.

[David Hodgkins]

I tried to fix this last night to no avail.

When I turn the ignition key the gauges flicker and then set to the "0" temp and then just don't move. I've checked the grounds and leads and everything seems to be fine. They just refuse to show temp. The fan kicks on as it should so mechanically everything is working except these gauges.

I'd like to drive it to breakfast with the guys this weekend but now I'm worried if there is a short somewhere. I don't really want to drive the car at all (even though it looks fantastic right now!) if there is any kind of outstanding electrical issue...

[David Hodgkins]

To much Teflon tape on the sender threads preventing a good ground, perhaps.

I didn't remove the senders when I did the "refresh" so I don't think this is the issue...?

I did unplug the wires from the senders though...

[Norm B]

Get someone to help you. Try disconnecting the wire from the sender and momentarily touching it to the block while your helper watches the gauge. The gauge should react. Normally it will spike to full hot. Don't leave the wire connected to the block at all, just touch it and disconnect. The gauge will burn out if the sender wire is grounded for too long.

If the gauge reacts then you have a sender problem. If it doesn't then you have a problem with the wiring or power to the gauges.

HTH
Norm

[David Hodgkins]

Get someone to help you. Try disconnecting the wire from the sender and momentarily touching it to the block while your helper watches the gauge. The gauge should react. Normally it will spike to full hot. Don't leave the wire connected to the block at all, just touch it and disconnect. The gauge will burn out if the sender wire is grounded for too long.

If the gauge reacts then you have a sender problem. If it doesn't then you have a problem with the wiring or power to the gauges.

HTH
Norm

Thanks Norm, I'll try that.