That should work. Or get Mechie to thread the tube so you can screw the Peterson Regulator right into it.
Peterson Vacuum Regulator.jpg
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That should work. Or get Mechie to thread the tube so you can screw the Peterson Regulator right into it.
Peterson Vacuum Regulator.jpg
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
What's the thread on the peterson piece?
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It is a -12AN thread. That thread is 1 1/16" with a pitch of 12
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/engine_breath.html
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 09-27-2016 at 11:28 PM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Here's the Cosworth version:
Cosworth Peterson egulator adaptor.jpg
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Looks to be an O-ring Boss type fitting? Anyone know the size o-ring? Wish standards for these types of things were more readily available (or free). Technically the o-ring doesn't need a counterbore to sit in, but I really don't like o-ring's not constrained on the OD.
Last edited by Mechie3; 09-28-2016 at 08:53 AM.
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"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
I would look at making at least a one off of a new tube. A new cap means you have three leak paths vs just two if it hooks straight into the tube.
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Lot's of info here;
Parker O-Ring Handbook
And the always helpful McMaster Carr has good info and selection of O-rings (and almost everything else in this world!).
I've used the parker oring handbook a lot, just never for ORB. Didn't realize they were in there. Thanks.
I did finally find that the AN standard is essentially just the SAE J514 and found some dimensions here for ORB's:
http://www.cpvmfg.com/technical-reso...boss-sae-j514/
Interesting that the SAE J514 shows a spot face (dimension F) and parker (MS33649) does not for the o-ring to sit on. The hardest part of finding these is knowing the standard number and getting lucky enough to have it come up in a search for 12AN. Once you find that number you can often find the standard (for free) but if you can't....good luck!
Also found a terrible copy of MS33656 which gives dimensions for the male AN fittings if you wanted to make your own:
http://everyspec.com/MS-Specs/MS3/MS...S33656J_13785/
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There is a very small counterbore in the top of the Cosworth adaptor. The O-ring on the regulator is SAE dash 912 aka Parker 3-912. It's also the same ring that goes on the -12AN ORB fittings on the pump and the pan. I upgraded mine with Viton -912.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Thanks for the links!
I may be wrong, but I didn't think the o-ring sits on the spot-face. I thought the spot-face was simply to ensure the male fitting bottoms there to guarantee that the o-ring plunges a specific distance into the compound chamfer section. Why else would it specify in zoomed-in detail the precise dimensions of the chamfer?
Don't know. My only experience with ORB's is hooking up some fuel rails that I didn't make.
It doesn't look like I'll be able to make an oil port fitting myself. We don't have the right sized tap in my building. Having a friend checking the other building for me. Taps are $60. We also don't have internal threading inserts to make it on the CNC. I can still make a CAD model and have it quoted at a shop if people are interested.
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"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
We just used an O ring style female to dash 10 male, then tapped our cover to 12" npt and screwed in a male dash 10. Now, it comes off with a dash 10 wrench for adjustment. easypeasy lemon squeezy
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Just verifying, I was told by Element Tuning that I need to remove the Killer-B baffle and Killer-B oil pickup ?
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
I got a surprise tonight. I'm re-building my 2005 STI which I know is the correct year for the A/C bracket we use for the Aviaid plate to work right. I got the bracket bolted to the block and when I went to install the Aviaid mount plate discovered only three mounting holes!
20160929_222036.jpg
Apparently because it's a race car some previous owner had removed the A/C in the race conversion and decided that top mount hole wasn't doing anything and it's in the way, so he cut it off.
A new OEM one costs $195! I've got my recycle/wrecker guy looking for one at a more reasonable cost.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Crappy luck.... Would be a good opportunity to practice some cast aluminum welding, if you're into that kind of thing
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Are the block castings the same in that area across engine model/years? In other words, can you bolt on a 2005 sti compressor bracket to any year 2.5 (or 2.0 for that matter) block?
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Howdy yawl,
Avid 3 stage worked great for me for almost five years just had pump overhaul by Aviaid! Unfortunately can't use it due to NO Dry Sump allowed in class I want to hill climb my 818 (when built) in. :-(
May put my set up for sale also have a bunch of -12AN new fittings/hose as I was going to move the tank from the firewall to the middle of the car. :-0
Note I ran my block's/head's CCV closed loop, with a breather tank off the dry dump tank, used a Peterson vacuum control valve on one of the CCV's, pumped oil straight into where oil filter screws in, and scavenged from 2 -12an fittings welded into custom made pan. Never had any a rod bearing issues, excessive oil burn, and seals never leaked, regularly data-logged up to 2g's Lat. :-) Hardest part for me was sourcing the very unique die (from the UK) to make a custom Crank shaft bolt that was long enough to be able to bolt the pulleys on an mandrel to the crank, needed to align the pump and alternator (no power steering using EPAS) correctly.
Video
https://youtu.be/Zf_eXAQ1x0M
TNX
Dave
Last edited by biknman; 10-03-2016 at 06:28 PM.
Dave, I've always appreciated your creativity. Is that Aviaid three-stage pump all suck or is one an oil pump?
Did you see my latest for my STi? They should be finished dynoing it by tomorrow. This has an external Peterson pressure relief valve/KB pan. Might be worth combining with dry sump. Am still enamored with the Dailey system. Seeing yours I might be swayed. How did you drive the alternator?
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Just used a Moroso Alternator Pulley 23556 on the ALT and on the crank mandrel and a HTD Alternator Pulley 40-Tooth P/N 23558. If your interested PM before I post it all for sale. Here is a video I did tonight:
https://youtu.be/Kz_AWph-X4Q
Last edited by biknman; 10-03-2016 at 06:56 PM.
Here is a pic I took tonight after removing the pump it's bracket, the alternator bracket and pulley, belts, crank mandrel with alternator and pump pulleys, and the sump pan from the block.
Lastly couple more things to note on what I found doing a custom 3stage (2suck1pressure)dry sump system on my Scooby race car. It takes a very custom hard to find die for making a custom crank shaft bolts so you can get the spacing of the HTD or Glimmer pulley on a mandrel to fit your needs to align the belt properly. It took me almost a year and got it form a guy in middle nowhere UK. I can dig it out and let yawl know the size of your interested before I sale it with my other stuff. Be mindful of the suction side hoses as the pump can suck hard enough to pinch the hoses off. And because it's a boxer it can be a pain to keep the hoses from header heat. Note this has a pressure stage so you don't need the stock pump to work so gut the out gear out of the stock pump but leave the rest of the oil pump housing as it needs the be there for the crank seal and the timing belt drive pulley spacing. Also depending on where you chose to pump the oil into the block determines oil filter and pressure regulation. Via the original pickup point through the fitting on the pan allows you to use stock oil filter and the pressure regulator (by pass rather) in stock oil pump housing. Via the special -12an to 20mmx1.5 fitting in the oil filter feed galley will require the pressure by-pass Spring (rear of pump) be set and checked and the use of an inline oil filter like I did.
Happy dry sumping y'all ;-)
Dave
Last edited by biknman; 10-05-2016 at 10:53 PM.
What was special about the bolt? Is it not a standard thread?
818R Build date 10/31/15
biknman
Nice pile of parts. I have a expensive pile just like it. Like everything else on the 818, it takes some creative engineering to make things fit.
I'm working on my sump pan tonight. My current exhaust is OEM un-egual length, but I also have a cheap equal length exhaust. Finding a solution that is acceptable to me is not going well.
Bob
uepan.jpg uepan2.jpg
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Yup not standard by any means. Need to stop by the shop and verify but from memory it's been six years ago the bolt measured physically 12.8 mm x thread pitch 1.5 mm with the tap size at M13x1.5. Easy to find taps not dies and the only "bolts" are for use as drain plugs nothing in a 6-8" long grande 8 bolt :-(
Last edited by biknman; 10-06-2016 at 06:52 AM.
FFR 818r Instagram biknman69
2020 Ram 2500HD, 19 Forester Touring DD, 96 GM coupe for SCCA SM
“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.”
• Ernest Hemingway
Looks good! Yup with all the different type and ways to run a the various intake manifolds, fuel rail set ups, AVCS / TGVs or not, etc etc each 3 stage setup is unique unless you go with one of those $4k setups. The headers are a reason I made my own. I prefer the thicker Sc40 Stainless for headers any-who just seems to work better for me and not common or super expensive already made, But I also have the tools and sources to do it cheap so. Them there billet or forged dry sump pans are rather expensive so I fabricated my own dry sump pan using the OEM pan's mounting flange and some -12an steel Male fittings. This way I can also still run say a Killer B or Moroso 6qt wet sump pan with my headers or the dry sump pan. :-) Them billet sumps are mighty pretty though!
Last edited by biknman; 10-07-2016 at 06:19 AM.
FFR 818r Instagram biknman69
2020 Ram 2500HD, 19 Forester Touring DD, 96 GM coupe for SCCA SM
“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.”
• Ernest Hemingway
I'm very surprised that those making these pretty parts can't think outside the box when working from a clean sheet, a block of aluminum and a five axis machining center. Designs could be more fluid, eliminate and/or simplify fittings and direct the inlets/outlets away from header interference points...
My goal was to work with a Dailey system and build an exhaust much like you have tacked together that puts the turbo in front and exhausting out the side. If it's a race car, I see the fuel cell being where most have gone >> in the passenger seat area.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
On our dry sump pan, I decided that some of the braided lines were to close to the headers for my liking.
I'm afraid that even with fire wrap sleeving, that the rubber hose might melt. So I decided to go with flared hard lines.
Should I use aluminum , copper, steel or stainless steel?
What is a good bender for 5/8 OD and 3/4 OD tubing you selected above?
Thanks for your help in advance.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-08-2016 at 08:28 AM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
I was worried also- I just used fire braid wrap (doubled up in close areas) then used the OEM Header Heatshields (on OEM headers of course- since they did not sit below frame like other headers). Everything was good. I even checked an oil line when I was replacing the oil pump to see if it was heat damaged (cut into it). It was all good, no issues.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I used this bender to make my own 5/8" aluminum crossover vent tube to replace the rusty stock one. I'll post pictures later.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has a pretty tight 2 1/4" bend radius and worked well on some annealed aluminum tube from Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2558
I'd be surprised if it worked well on stainless tube. Stainless is so much more difficult to bend. I have no plans to make anything out of 5/8" stainless tube with it, but if someone has some scrap they'd like to send me, I'd be happy to try bending it and report back. Ridgid makes a ratcheting bender for 5/8" with a 3" radius of bend - might work better.
The problem you'll run into with the hardlines is you will never get close to the bend radius you can get out of a 90-degree hose fitting. You have to have the tube sleeve pre-installed on the tube before you bend it (otherwise the sleeve will not slide through the bend), which means you have to flare it before you bend it. So you end up with about a 1.5" straight section after your flare before the bend starts. The bend radius of those hose fittings is probably less than 1 inch. It might work for you - just a consideration to keep in mind.
Another issue is while the bender makes a smooth bend in the aluminum tubing, it does collapse it slightly in the bend (not as bad as a compression-bent exhaust tube, but not nearly as good as mandrel-bent). I don't know if a slightly collapsed -12 tube would restrict oil flow too much or not. Probably not, but worth thinking about.
The best solution is probably Chad's - sleeving and heat shield.
Last edited by Zach34; 10-08-2016 at 12:14 PM.