EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

[edwardb]

Yes, thanks that helps greatly.

I didn't have an old version of the FFR Coyote install guide but I downloaded the Hot Rod Coyote install guide and it still shows the old way.

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This looks like it bypasses the 15 amp fuse but still runs through the relay.

Is this correct?

Can I delete the Coil/EFI Crank lead and the Alternator lead from the RF harness? Or am I getting ahead of myself?

You mentioned a fuel pump cut off switch, maybe under your dash? Is that recommended? Cut into the tan line coming out of the relay or the green line going in?. Does it matter which side?

-Steve

Yes, that older pic shows what I did. The fuse in the RF panel is removed. Using that wire, the power for both the RF panel fuel pump relay and the actual in-tank fuel pump come from the Coyote green fuel pump wire via the Coyote PDB. The Coyote PDB has the necessary fuse for the fuel pump. The inertia switch wires complete the ground circuit for the relay. Inertia switch closed = relay grounded, relay closed, +12V from Coyote PDB goes to the fuel pump. Inertia switch open = relay open, no power to fuel pump. Exactly how you want it to work. For the fuel pump switch, I don't know if it's recommended or not. It's just something I wanted, and yes it's on the center dash support underneath and out of sight. Mainly for diagnostic purposes (can crank the engine without it starting) and also a hidden security feature if I'm so inclined. But I didn't switch the main fuel pump wire. That's carrying a lot of current and that would need a substantial switch. I added a small rocker switch in one of the inertia switch wires. So opening the switch is the same as the inertia switch being open and breaks power to the fuel pump via the relay. Pretty simple.

For the RF ORG-EFI OR COIL wire, I used that one to connect to the Coyote pigtail cavity 5 Light Green Ignition Relay Trigger wire. The Coyote system needs ignition switched +12V to wake it up and keep it running. The RF ORG-EFI OR COIL wire is the perfect candidate.

For the alternator wire, I'm not sure what you're asking. You need the main +12V battery feed wire from the RF harness (discussed in the last response) to the large post on the alternator. Then you need the alternator connector from the Coyote harness into the connector block on the alternator. Those two things provide the entire alternator function. There is a brown alternator wire coming off the RF ignition switch harness that goes to a connector on the end of the RF alternator harness wire. Maybe that's what you're asking about. That one can be deleted. Not used.

I uploaded a wiring spreadsheet in my build thread. It has a lot of detail and maybe would help if you don't have it. It's post #325 here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post243285

Continued good luck with the wiring!