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Thread: Cup Holder instalation

  1. #1
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Cup Holder instalation

    For those with cup holders in the trans tunnel top, how did you install them to keep them in the hole? And what position/location did they end up?

    The 4 ideas I've come up with are glue/HSRF/JBWeld, build a bracket underneath, friction push in, or plane old gravity. All have advantages, and unfortunately disadvantages. I'm also making the trans tunnel top aluminum removable, so the fact that it has to move forward and aft for install/removing, and the cross bracing of the 3/4" tubes is another design issue I'm trying to solve. It looks like the cup holders will be straddling the forward cross brace, and be right up next to it, which means it will restrict the forward/aft movement with the cup holders installed, necessitating the aluminum may have to go on first, then the cup holders drop in. I think. Maybe.

    This (picture) is what I'm thinking at the moment.

    The more ideas the better. Thanks all. Pictures if you got 'em
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    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I put cupholders in my Mk3 first build. They were relatively shallow and in the same general position you show. But that build was a T5, so more space than a TKO where it can be a little tight. You'll need to figure out where they fit best for your build. But they need to be firmly attached. Gravity definitely won't due. There's pretty strong positive air pressure in the transmission tunnel. I've read of several instances where guys had them pop up or fly out completely due to the pressure. For mine, I put a heavy bead of RTV on the underside where they came through the cover.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  3. #3
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul. Yeah, these are the small one's from Watson's Streetworks. They have about 1/2"+ vertical clearance from the top of the TKO, so that will work. Just can't quite push the trigger on the hole saw yet, trying to figure out location, then attachment.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  4. #4
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    I had similar cup holders to those pictured in your post. I placed them on either side of the diagonal brace behind the shifter on the TKO600 rather than in front of the shifter. My reason for this location was to keep water bottles out of the way of the shifter and the forward throw. The holders are staggered as opposed to being beside each other. After one season, I took the original aluminum holders out and put in some larger diameter marine stainless steel units. The aluminum holders looked terrible after one season with scratches. The new units are designed to hold a "Koozie" (which helps to keep water cool a little longer), but also have a smaller recess for coffee cups. The holders are NOT secured in place. The hole in the aluminum trans cover is precise and allows for a friction fit. No glue... no silicone...no mess. KISS!!! In addition, being able to remove the holders makes it easy to clean the spilled dried coffee.

    I like having the cup holders. They also serve as a good spot to put the phone and wallet when there isn't a water bottle in them.
    Last edited by Dave Howard; 04-30-2017 at 03:37 PM.

  5. #5
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    There is room between the shifter and the rear bulkhead for a console with cup holders included. Got mine at cupholdersplus.com. It's called the drinkster narrow bench seat console shorty. I did modify the rear to match the angle of the rear bulkhead wall. Not too difficult. Nice to have an armrest too although it does set back some.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  6. #6
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I put a pair in a car I built for a customer:



    No glue; like Dave's simply a precise fit with the carpet and insulation pie cut and tucked into the hole. Actually takes a bit of effort to push them into the holes or pull them out for cleaning. These sure as heck aren't gonna' get blown out by under car air pressure!

    Jeff

  7. #7
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRL16 View Post
    There is room between the shifter and the rear bulkhead for a console with cup holders included. Got mine at cupholdersplus.com. It's called the drinkster narrow bench seat console shorty. I did modify the rear to match the angle of the rear bulkhead wall. Not too difficult. Nice to have an armrest too although it does set back some.
    Any Pictures? Permanent/fixed or removeable?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I put a pair in a car I built for a customer:



    No glue; like Dave's simply a precise fit with the carpet and insulation pie cut and tucked into the hole. Actually takes a bit of effort to push them into the holes or pull them out for cleaning. These sure as heck aren't gonna' get blown out by under car air pressure!

    Jeff
    It's hard to tell from the picture angle: Are they between the two cross braces, or straddling the forward cross brace?
    Last edited by boat737; 04-30-2017 at 04:43 PM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  8. #8
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    A better question might be, how do you keep from spilling the contents? The urge to "git r done" is never preceded with, is my coffee cup secured in it's holder Just kidding of course, but make sure you use only positive seal cups. I am sure someone out there had spilled their morning coffee.

  9. #9
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    Correction on that console name. It's the short bench seat cruiser console. No pics yet. It's a nice fit though. Sorry about that. Too many irons in the fire.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  10. #10
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    https://youtu.be/cbbJa3_Fn1c Here's my youtube link. Hopefully it works
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  11. #11
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    I put some nutzerts into the aluminum under it. The fasteners are covered by the material on the bottom of console storage area. Rock solid.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  12. #12
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    I REALLY REALLY REALLY like my magnetic cup holders. No worries about where the bracing is, and when I take them out, there is no evidence that they were there in the first place. Dont know if this is allowed, but here is the thread from the other site:
    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...glove-box.html

  13. #13
    Senior Member karlos's Avatar
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    Looks like the locations you're planning are the same as what I ended up with. Clears the crossmembers and the top of the TKO600, but not by much. Wouldn't know how to act if something wasn't a tight squeeze

    As far as retention goes, a big fat silicone O-ring works great. Holds tight but can be removed from under the car if absolutely necessary. About $1 a piece from eBay (link provided below). Not sure what size you might need. I went with a 2-7/8" ID O-ring to fit a 3" OD cupholder. Has to be stretched somewhat to fit, which keeps it from falling off.


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FDA-SILICONE...oAAOxyUrZSp6SA





    Last edited by karlos; 04-30-2017 at 06:35 PM.

  14. #14
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The O-ring retainer is a great idea. I'm going to remember that. My comment about making sure they are firmly attached and could come out under pressure was maybe overly dramatic. It's not like the transmission tunnel is an air compressor tank. But I was mainly responding to the possibility to have them in with gravity only. They will lift or even come out if installed that way. They need something holding them in place.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  15. #15
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    My cupholders are held with two hose clamps each, attached end-to-end. Don't thighten too much otherwise the cupholder will dent.

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