Papa's MKIV Roadster Build - #9115 (Post Grad) - One million + views!!!

[Papa]

See if you can read this I found the instructions

If it is a march sagnaw pump there should be a large nut with a fitting in the center on the back of the pump which is the discharge port

RickAttachment 73394

Rick,

Going through my Blueprint documentation, they installed a pump specifically for a 1979-1995 Mustang. I would have to assume this would work out of the box with my Mustang rack. How would I check the pressure to be sure?

Dave

[Papa]

Are you going to rivet it in from the firewall side or use rivet nuts in case you ever need to pull it loose?

I've decided to buy a bag of the "sealing rivets" from McMaster-Carr and will rivet the bracket from the outside of the foot box.

[Papa]

Today I worked on finalizing the locations of the headlight dimmer, turn signal, and hazard switches. The dimmer went into the bracket I made and is cleco'd in place until my "sealing" rivets arrive.



For the hazard switch, I mounted it under the dash on one of my dash braces along with my trip odometer reset button.



The turn signal switch is the only thing that went into the dash.



A couple of other odds and ends I accomplished today was to mount a clock adjust button in the glove box as Paul suggested and I connected my negative battery cable to the chassis.

[Itchief]

Dave

Sounds like you should be good to go. Much easier than what I had to go through to get mine setup and working.

You would have to install an inline pressure gauge once you get everything installed. You would only have to reduce the pressure if the steering feels to light.

I really like the bracket for the dimmer switch.

Rick

[broku518]

Hi Papa,
Quick question. I really like the black panels look. What spray did you use?

[Papa]

Hi Papa,
Quick question. I really like the black panels look. What spray did you use?

It's Rustoleum Bedliner spray.

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/fb4...0&odnBg=FFFFFF

[Papa]

I started on the fuel system today. After a bit of discussion in the main forum, I ended up calling Gordon Levy and ordering a complete pump (internal), lines and fittings to connect up with my F.A.S.T. EFI system. So, in preparation for those items to arrive I assembled and installed my F.A.S.T. fuel pressure regulator.



I also installed a plug in the mechanical speedo sending port on my transmission and then decided to tackle the E-Brake cables. This is where I ended up with the cables.









It just doesn't seem like the routing is correct from the frame bracket back to each wheel. If anyone can offer some recommendations on routing with the three-link, I'd appreciate it.

[Papa]

I made hangers to get the cables off the diff. Here is a link to the full thread I started on this in the main forum:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Cable-Routing

[Papa]

Things have been a bit on the slow side here as I worked out how I was going to lay out the fuel system. Well, yesterday my new pump, lines, and fittings ordered from Gordon Levy arrived. I'll be working on that and the e-brake handle this weekend.

I plan to run the fuel lines through the trans tunnel. Any recommendations on best location? I'm thinking along the top on the passenger side. Also, just to be sure - the rubber tip on the return line (inside the tank) gets removed correct?

[edwardb]

I plan to run the fuel lines through the trans tunnel. Any recommendations on best location? I'm thinking along the top on the passenger side. Also, just to be sure - the rubber tip on the return line (inside the tank) gets removed correct?

Most don't recommend putting either fuel or brake lines in the transmission tunnel. Can get a little tight plus what might happen if the driveshaft should let go. Down the 4-inch frame tubes is by far the most common approach. That's what I've done on my builds. Can't help you with that rubber tip. I've seen it before but not sure what it does. Anti-siphon valve? Prevent foaming? Not sure I'd be in a hurry to take it off, but I really don't know. Hopefully someone else does.

[Itchief]

I ran mine on the outside of the 4 inch tube as close to the floor as possible

Rick

[Papa]

Most don't recommend putting either fuel or brake lines in the transmission tunnel. Can get a little tight plus what might happen if the driveshaft should let go. Down the 4-inch frame tubes is by far the most common approach. That's what I've done on my builds. Can't help you with that rubber tip. I've seen it before but not sure what it does. Anti-siphon valve? Prevent foaming? Not sure I'd be in a hurry to take it off, but I really don't know. Hopefully someone else does.

I ran mine on the outside of the 4 inch tube as close to the floor as possible

Rick

Thanks guys. The little rubber part stays on the return line. I will be running my -6 braided fuel lines (not hard lines) along the 4" frame rail as well. I ordered some ITC anodized separator/clamps to keep things looking tidy, but that means another few days of waiting for parts to arrive before I can run the lines. I did install the new electric fuel pump into the tank and will get the wiring connected this weekend. The RF harness fuel pump and fuel-level sender plug wiring is too short to reach between the two, so I'll be extending the harness to the fuel pump.

[BB767]

On page 166 of my manual is specifically says to remove the rubber piece on the end of the return line.

[Papa]

On page 166 of my manual is specifically says to remove the rubber piece on the end of the return line.

Mine shows the same thing. The manual also describes drilling the openings to reduce restrictions through both the output and return tubes. I'm installing a completely different setup than the one shipped with the kit. I'm going to leave the tip installed as it was delivered and will see if I have any issues.

[Papa]

Today was one of those cats & dogs days. I started by installing a clutch cable adjuster. It came with a pair of self tapping screws, but I actually tapped a couple of holes to attach the adjuster using a couple of #10-24 stainless screws.



Next, I cleaned up the fuel tank vent assembly. I didn't like the idea of having an open piece of tubing that could get clogged by an insect or let other crud get to the fuel tank. So, I installed a vent cap typically used by moto-cross bikes.



I then tapped a couple of holes to attach cushion clamps to hold the vent tube rather than zip ties.



I also completed extending the harness for the fuel pump plug. Once that was done, I assembled the e-brake handle and test fit it in the chassis. It looks like I'm going to have to make some modifications to the cockpit aluminum to get the handle to work. Is this a common issue? Any advice here would be appreciated.

[edwardb]

I assembled the e-brake handle and test fit it in the chassis. It looks like I'm going to have to make some modifications to the cockpit aluminum to get the handle to work. Is this a common issue? Any advice here would be appreciated.

Assume you're using the factory position on the side of the transmission tunnel. The common issue most experience (me included) is the handle ends up too close to the aluminum panel throughout its required movement. You'll need to get it moved out by slotting the holes in the chassis mount or the e-brake mounting brackets (maybe both) and slide it over enough to provide some clearance. Get it on enough of an angle that the handle swings away from the aluminum panel. It doesn't take too much to get it where it works OK. BTW, the former Mustang donor e-brake assembly had the same issue. At least they're consistent.

[Papa]

Assume you're using the factory position on the side of the transmission tunnel. The common issue most experience (me included) is the handle ends up too close to the aluminum panel throughout its required movement. You'll need to get it moved out by slotting the holes in the chassis mount or the e-brake mounting brackets (maybe both) and slide it over enough to provide some clearance. Get it on enough of an angle that the handle swings away from the aluminum panel. It doesn't take too much to get it where it works OK. BTW, the former Mustang donor e-brake assembly had the same issue. At least they're consistent.

As always, Paul, thank you for the help. I'll look at what you suggested and see where it takes me.

[Papa]

After looking at what I would need to do to move the handle further into the cockpit, it seems that the structure of the bracket is in the way. Here is what I'm thinking about doing to get the e-brake handle to fit and allow full range of motion. I'm considering cutting out the structure along the red dashed lines. I think the assembled e-brake handle should provide enough rigidity to just bolt it into the remaining portion, but if not, I can add a piece of 3/16 bar stock between the two sections (yellow dashed lines).



Any thought on this approach?

[edwardb]

You could approach it that way. But lots of us have made it work without going to that extreme. Here's a picture for FWIW. Note the back mounting is pushed all the way in. The front mounting is all the way out. This in addition to slotting the frame and/or e-brake brackets. Don't remember the exact detail. It's been a couple years. Note the back on top and the front on the bottom. I found this made a difference. I did route the cables slightly differently, but that doesn't matter for the handle clearance and is a whole other discussion.

[Papa]

You could approach it that way. But lots of us have made it work without going to that extreme. Here's a picture for FWIW. Note the back mounting is pushed all the way in. The front mounting is all the way out. This in addition to slotting the frame and/or e-brake brackets. Don't remember the exact detail. It's been a couple years. Note the back on top and the front on the bottom. I found this made a difference. I did route the cables slightly differently, but that doesn't matter for the handle clearance and is a whole other discussion.

Paul,

I'll see if that approach helps (offset front to rear). I also noted in your picture that you have the bolt heads that attach the grab handle to the assembly are flipped compared to my assembly. One of the issues I'm having is that the nuts are hitting the cockpit aluminum. Since all of this is hidden by the boot, I'll flip those as well and we'll see how much closer that gets me.

Thanks,
Dave

[Papa]

I've been working with GAS-N to order a set of headers and side pipes and I can't say enough what a great experience it has been working with these guys. I was sent a pair of header flanges to try on my heads to see what worked best.



When I asked about the location of the bung for the O2 sensor, they asked me, "Where would you like it to be?" Since I had specific recommendations from FAST EFI, I just sent that information along with the flanges back to them and they are making my headers to my specifications!

[AC Bill]

I hope the FAST EFI instructions, as to where the O2 sensor goes on the header, is also going to work for your Roadster. Were they just general instructions, or specific to the roadster? Hate to have some clearance issue after you get them back, and your trying to bolt them on....

For the header flange to head gasket, I highly recommend using the "Remflex" gaskets. There has been problems with some makes of gaskets, burning out or blowing out, and it's a pain to have to change them. Several builders just use the copper RTV as a sealer and don't bother with the gasket at all.

[Papa]

I hope the FAST EFI instructions, as to where the O2 sensor goes on the header, is also going to work for your Roadster. Were they just general instructions, or specific to the roadster? Hate to have some clearance issue after you get them back, and your trying to bolt them on....

For the header flange to head gasket, I highly recommend using the "Remflex" gaskets. There has been problems with some makes of gaskets, burning out or blowing out, and it's a pain to have to change them. Several builders just use the copper RTV as a sealer and don't bother with the gasket at all.

Bill,

The EFI instructions provide the preferred angle of the sensor (10*) and the minimum distance from the head. They prefer to mount in the collector, but since there won't be a collector on this set, it's more about the first two items. Thanks for the advice on the gaskets. I was going to ask what brands folks have had the best luck with. I also have a tube of the copper RTV that I plan to use between the headers and the pipes instead of a gasket. I'll be using Stage-8 header bolts and hope they perform as advertised.

Thanks,
Dave

[Papa]

I will be tackling my fuel lines this weekend (finally), and while I was shopping for parts and tools I spent some time trying to find a clean way to attach my post-filter to the chassis. What I came up with was this:





It's a roll-bar accessory clamp. My filter is 1.25" in diameter, and these clamps are available in various sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Yama-Bro]

Nice find! That will look good.

[Papa]

I got the filter and clamp mounted.





With a little persistence and help from Paul plus a little more scrutiny of the images in the assembly manual, I managed to get the e-brake handle installed and working. The part that was preventing my success before was the small groove cut unto the ratchet piece wouldn't slide over the frame piece. I just had to file the slot to enlarge it a bit and everything slid into place.



With the clevis adjusted, the brake is fully engaged at about 1/2 the travel, which is exactly what I wanted.



And finally, the handle position when the brake is disengaged.



I'm just waiting on my Koul Tool EZ-On Push-Lok Hose Press to arrive (supposed to be delivered today) and I'll start running those fuel lines.

[Papa]

I took a couple more pictures of the installed e-brake handle to try to provide enough detail to augment the FFR manual.

From the FFR manual:





Notice the placement of the ratchet gear on the handle and how the front of the handle is under the frame while the rear of the handle is over the frame.

Here is a picture of my handle from inside the trans tunnel.



I haven't tightened up the clevis bolts yet because I want to fine tune the adjustment first and I am still considering routing the cables over the 4" tube like Paul did. Also note that with the Wilwood brakes, you need to install the extenders or the cables will be too short.

[GoDadGo]

I had to do a little tweaking with the handle too.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I was one of the first to get the FFR handle when I built a very early Mk4 for a customer---there were no instructions at all at that time so it was one of those "make it up as you go" deals! You've done much the same as I wound up doing on that and subsequent ones. It's not really one of their finest pieces of work IMHO.

Unless things have changed recently you will notice that unlike an OEM mechanism the ratchet notches and pawl are not hardened. Because of this in the interest of longevity I always recommend to my owners that they try to get into the habit of depressing the button to disengage the pawl when applying the brake then release it to lock the handle after it is raised rather than allowing it to "click-click-click" and ratchet which I feel would wear the unhardened teeth.

Build is looking great!

Jeff

[Papa]

... I always recommend to my owners that they try to get into the habit of depressing the button to disengage the pawl when applying the brake then release it to lock the handle after it is raised rather than allowing it to "click-click-click" and ratchet which I feel would wear the unhardened teeth. ...

Jeff

Great advice, Jeff. I've only pulled the handle a dozen or so times and you can already see the effects on the soft metal teeth.

[Ducky2009]

After looking at what I would need to do to move the handle further into the cockpit, it seems that the structure of the bracket is in the way. Here is what I'm thinking about doing to get the e-brake handle to fit and allow full range of motion. I'm considering cutting out the structure along the red dashed lines. I think the assembled e-brake handle should provide enough rigidity to just bolt it into the remaining portion, but if not, I can add a piece of 3/16 bar stock between the two sections (yellow dashed lines).



Any thought on this approach?

Papa, I didn't like the idea of cutting the cable ends and hand swedging new ends on, or using set screws to hold the cables. Didn't trust that the new ends swedged-on by hand method would hold up, so I made a bracket to allow using the cables as-is without cutting. Also didn't like the idea of bare cables running under the frame rail, but also didn't like the angle of the cables (in relation to the pulling force of the handle) if I ran them over the frame. In the end, the cable sheath under the frame rail was better, IMO. Using the bracket also allowed me to move the handle outward a little, allowing it to not rub the sheetmetal tunnel.

E-Brake Bracket.jpg

[Papa]

Papa, I didn't like the idea of cutting the cable ends and hand swedging new ends on, or using set screws to hold the cables. Didn't trust that the new ends swedged-on by hand method would hold up, so I made a bracket to allow using the cables as-is without cutting. Also didn't like the idea of bare cables running under the frame rail, but also didn't like the angle of the cables (in relation to the pulling force of the handle) if I ran them over the frame. In the end, the cable sheath under the frame rail was better, IMO. Using the bracket also allowed me to move the handle outward a little, allowing it to not rub the sheetmetal tunnel.

E-Brake Bracket.jpg

Mine is working fine now and I've decided to leave the cables as FF recommends, under the 4" frame. I didn't have to cut any of the ends off the cables either, and after one more adjustment today, I'm done with it unless something breaks.

Dave

[Papa]

Finally! This little gadget showed up today and it allowed me to run my fuel lines, well some of them anyway.





I ran the return line from the regulator to the tank and the feed line from the tank to the filter. I'll run the remaining lines once the engine is in and I know how long to make them.

[Papa]

I had to do a little tweaking with the handle too.

I'll bet you did with that giant transmission stuffed into the tunnel!

[rrrose]

You really need to stop finding all these cool little tools and being so helpful with the amazon links. Its literally 3 clicks and on its way. Too easy for $ out the door.
Great progress.
Ron

[Papa]

You really need to stop finding all these cool little tools and being so helpful with the amazon links. Its literally 3 clicks and on its way. Too easy for $ out the door.
Great progress.
Ron

Ron,

You are welcome to borrow mine if you like.

Dave

[rrrose]

Not sure I will need the fuel line tool, but if it comes up for sure. Thanks.
Ron

[Papa]

Today was a backward day in terms of progress. Last week I moved the car to my other garage in order to bring my tractor with the snow blade into a bay that would be easy to access if we got significant snow. I moved the MKIV on the dollies and when I hit the transition between asphalt and concrete, the dollies stopped, but the MKIV didn't. The dollies that stuck flipped up into the space between the rear tires and the cockpit. The passenger side wasn't too bad with just a few scuffs and a small ding, but the driver's side did a bit more damage. I spent the day today with a hammer and dolly getting the aluminum straightened out and the paint (bed liner spray) touched up.





Lesson learned - the dollies are great in the garage, but not so much between the garages.

[Papa]

Okay fellas, I need a sanity check. I think I'm ready to install the engine! I've never done this before, so please help me if I've overlooked something that should be done before the engine goes in.

I have the suspension installed.
I have the steering installed.
I have the brakes installed, bled, and working.
I have the fuel system installed (just need to run the main feed line once the engine is in place).
I have the electrical harnesses in place and the dash is wired.
I have the e-brake installed and working.
I've greased all the zerks front and rear.
I've filled the rear diff with fluid.
I have the battery installed (terminals are not connected) with the ground attached to the chassis and the positive cable run through the tunnel and up into the engine bay.
I have the throttle and clutch cables attached inside the foot box and ready to connect once the engine is installed.
The engine is complete minus the various sending units for water temp and oil pressure. EFI is installed and the harness is ready to make connections once installed.
The trans is installed on the engine and I've installed the speedo sensor block-off plug.

My headers and pipes are ordered, but I won't need those until first start.

Thanks for all the help to get me to this point! Please let me know if there is something else I should do before taking this big step as well as any hint/tips to make the install go smoothly. For example, I've been told that I should go ahead and install the transmission frame mount before the engine goes in.

Dave

[GoDadGo]

1. If you have an engine hoist that rolls, then tip the back of the car up about 12-14" so that you can slip the engine and transmission in without having to tip it up on the tail shaft.
2. Also, you do not install the transmission A-Frame until after you get the sucker in place so leave it alone, but keep in handy.
3. If you are from the South like me and don't have a hoist, then put some dollies under the rear wheels, block them up about the same height, and slide the car under the drive train.
4. It took us about 15 minutes to complete the task.

https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4

Good Luck!