Costs of Full Infinitybox Install?

[lsfourwheeler]

For the guys that have used infinitybox's setup, what was the total cost of installing the system. Their 20-circuit harness is $1,500, but how much did you guys spend on additional wiring, connectors, sheathing, etc. to finish the harness? I'm debating whether it's actually going to be any cost savings over say iWire or similar. It does add more features but I think the cost part may be the decider for me.

[2bking]

I used it in a roadster and decided I wanted the one button start to be keyless so I purchased the key fob for another few hundred dollars. Other than that, I don't think the wiring expense is any more than the RF harness. There is plenty of wire with the power cells. You should get heatshrink in various sizes and a good set of crimping pliers if you plan to use crimp type terminals and buy name brand crimp terminals. Delcity and McMaster-Carr are websites where you can get quality wiring supplies. Some prefer solder connections where possible so if you go that route, a butane powered soldering device is an excellent investment. The butane devices have plenty of heat (watts) available to solder the heavier gage wires.

Oh, you will need a trickle charger to keep the battery from draining in four to six days or else purchase their battery cutoff box for another few hundred dollars. You can use a battery switch for that and wire a memory circuit for the PCM, clock, radio and speedometer (if it's GPS).

[lsfourwheeler]

Oh, you will need a trickle charger to keep the battery from draining in four to six days or else purchase their battery cutoff box for another few hundred dollars. You can use a battery switch for that and wire a memory circuit for the PCM, clock, radio and speedometer (if it's GPS).

Thanks, I think I'll be adding a simple battery cutoff switch, but I may go with their kit if I think it's worth a couple hundred bucks (costs start adding up quick). That's actually my biggest gripe with the system because having to shut it off means that my power locks and stuff won't work after I've had to let it sit for a while.

I'll have to look into a memory circuit because I didn't even think about having to keep power to the little items like a clock when I switch off the battery. I'm guessing most people have found some way to work around that even though I haven't previously seen it mentioned.

[EODTech87]

Depending on how much the power locks draw you could use something like the item in the link below to provide power after the main battery is disconnected. It could also run other devices that need constant power. They offer it with a 1.2ah, 2.4ah, or 5ah battery or you can also buy the controller by itself and run any size battery you would like.

https://www.powerstream.com/d-sine-dc-ups.htm

[lsfourwheeler]

Depending on how much the power locks draw you could use something like the item in the link below to provide power after the main battery is disconnected. It could also run other devices that need constant power. They offer it with a 1.2ah, 2.4ah, or 5ah battery or you can also buy the controller by itself and run any size battery you would like.

https://www.powerstream.com/d-sine-dc-ups.htm

That type of system looks like a pretty simple solution to the problem, only downside is the batteries will probably have to be replaced every few years. I like the idea though of just a UPS battery backup, but that does add a good bit of weight and complexity to the wiring system...those lead acid batteries aren't light. I'd have to see what the current draw for the power locks and stuff is, but I imagine it's not much.

[EODTech87]

That type of system looks like a pretty simple solution to the problem, only downside is the batteries will probably have to be replaced every few years. I like the idea though of just a UPS battery backup, but that does add a good bit of weight and complexity to the wiring system...those lead acid batteries aren't light. I'd have to see what the current draw for the power locks and stuff is, but I imagine it's not much.

Good thing is they are dirt cheap.
The 5ah system is 6lb.
The 1.2ah system is 1.8lb.

[lsfourwheeler]

Good thing is they are dirt cheap.
The 5ah system is 6lb.
The 1.2ah system is 1.8lb.

Do you think the 2.4Ah system would have enough capacity to run the RF receiver for at least a week? I looked up and the viper system my donor came with (I was gonna reuse to reduce costs) consumes about 20-40mA which wouldn't last quite long enough on the 2.4Ah system. But the 5Ah system is a whopping 6" in every dimension which means there's no way it's going inside the cabin of an 818. I wonder if infinitybox has a recommended way of doing this. Surely I'm not the first person that's wanted their keyless entry to work for longer than a couple days.

[EODTech87]

Do you think the 2.4Ah system would have enough capacity to run the RF receiver for at least a week? I looked up and the viper system my donor came with (I was gonna reuse to reduce costs) consumes about 20-40mA which wouldn't last quite long enough on the 2.4Ah system. But the 5Ah system is a whopping 6" in every dimension which means there's no way it's going inside the cabin of an 818. I wonder if infinitybox has a recommended way of doing this. Surely I'm not the first person that's wanted their keyless entry to work for longer than a couple days.

I didn’t think to look at the dimensions of the 5ah system. Your best bet is probably a battery tender with the permanently installed connector hooked up to the battery with the disconnect in a easily accessible location so you can just connect it when you park the car.

[lsfourwheeler]

I would make that the simple solution...but I hope to, at some point, be driving this thing around Georgia Tech's campus and I won't have easy access to an outlet all the time. The parking garages have some, but they're sparse and getting the spot would be hit or miss. Something to think about and troubleshoot down the road I guess if I choose the Infinity Box system...

[Frank818]

About the original question, you could also spend a lot more if you buy the inTOUCH NET for wifi control and inCODE to have the flexibility to update your MasterCell/PowerCell code.

[lsfourwheeler]

About the original question, you could also spend a lot more if you buy the inTOUCH NET for wifi control and inCODE to have the flexibility to update your MasterCell/PowerCell code.

But what is the approximate cost just to get the basic 20-circuit installed? I was thinking at least a couple hundred bucks of wiring and connectors on top of the infinity box?

[Frank818]

Ah in that perspective, yes.

If you don't have any special requirements then the basic 20-cells should be enough. It's the purpose of their kit.
Now do you have access to a car harness (all wires) or not at all?
I had the OEM harness all striped out of the Impreza so I could cut any wires and plugs I wanted to use or customize to my own taste. If you have access to that, you won't need to invest in wires.

However if you have no wires, then a few 100s to buy some here and there should be plenty enough.

Just make sure you identify all of the plugs/connectors you need. I found that most of the time using proper plug/connector was way more difficult than finding wires... and I had to invest in some plugs/connectors.

The more you use sensors, controlers, gizmos, the more you will need wires, plugs and connectors.

And then the more you have special needs, the more you will need other stuff from IBox. For example if you have a 12v+ signal you need to use to trigger something, you will need their inVERT product in order to switch the signal from + to negative. I had to use that and never thought I'd needed it.

[lsfourwheeler]

Just make sure you identify all of the plugs/connectors you need. I found that most of the time using proper plug/connector was way more difficult than finding wires... and I had to invest in some plugs/connectors.

The more you use sensors, controlers, gizmos, the more you will need wires, plugs and connectors.

Thanks for all that info Frank! I've got the donor wiring for the chassis harness that I can salvage some wire from and some connectors. My engine harness is hacked up and soaked in oil, but Infinity Box doesn't really mess with that so I'm just buying a new donor harness at some point. What's your opinion on connectors, use donor ones or replace them? I was thinking of just buying and using Deutsch because they're so highly rated and then I will be able to pick and choose the ones I need.

My car for sure won't be as unique or fully featured as yours but I do want to run radio, ABS, power windows, locks, and A/C. I may use the donor components for the windows instead of their inMotion product though because it really adds more features than I need.

[Frank818]

You saw my build thread. Thanks!

I know IBox was looking into making their product work with ABS a few months ago. You should ask them questions on that before you pull the trigger or at least read their latest Installation documents and if you see something about the ABS make sure you're fine with it. If you see f*all, shoot them an email to know what's up with that.

I used many of the donor's plugs, just cuz I needed to wire x number of wires and have a plug to make it easier to remove. I also re-used a bunch of VW ones that were sitting around for 20 years or re-used for its original purpose. If your donor's plugs are in good condition and they fit what you're looking for, might as well re-use them. China connectors are not as good. And fully pre-installed connectors with wires aren't always cheap, depends which ones you are looking for. As far I know the Subaru's connectors are reliable, but Deutsch should be great as well. I think you could minimize your connector shopping by reusing the good ones of the donor.

I believe IBox can control AC. What you plan on doing with locks? You can use universal electronic locks and they're fairly easy to use with IBox. Probably OEM ones too.

All in all, before you buy anything, contact IBox and tell them you plan on doing with what parts. They'll confirm if everything's fine and if you forgot something or not. Better to find out before than after.

[lsfourwheeler]

You saw my build thread. Thanks!

I know IBox was looking into making their product work with ABS a few months ago. You should ask them questions on that before you pull the trigger or at least read their latest Installation documents and if you see something about the ABS make sure you're fine with it. If you see f*all, shoot them an email to know what's up with that.

I used many of the donor's plugs, just cuz I needed to wire x number of wires and have a plug to make it easier to remove. I also re-used a bunch of VW ones that were sitting around for 20 years or re-used for its original purpose. If your donor's plugs are in good condition and they fit what you're looking for, might as well re-use them. China connectors are not as good. And fully pre-installed connectors with wires aren't always cheap, depends which ones you are looking for. As far I know the Subaru's connectors are reliable, but Deutsch should be great as well. I think you could minimize your connector shopping by reusing the good ones of the donor.

I believe IBox can control AC. What you plan on doing with locks? You can use universal electronic locks and they're fairly easy to use with IBox. Probably OEM ones too.

All in all, before you buy anything, contact IBox and tell them you plan on doing with what parts. They'll confirm if everything's fine and if you forgot something or not. Better to find out before than after.

Sounds like solid advice, I'll make sure to contact them about ABS before I pull the trigger.