Jdavis500 Gen 3 Coupe Build Thread

[edwardb]

Can someone tell me I am not crazy here? I haven't been able to find anything on the forum about this. The IRS differential is offset from the midline of the car and is not aligned with the transmission which is on the midline.

No, you're not crazy. This is talked about occasionally for all models. FF has the drivelines off-center 1 to 1-1/2 inches (in that range) toward the right side on all, including the the Gen 3 Coupe. It's actually pretty typical in DD's as well. Starting with the engine, if you look at the motor mounts, you can see the left is larger than the right, pushing the motor over that direction. I'm surprised to see your TKO lining up on the center of the chassis at the tailshaft. My T-56 is about an inch to the right. Roughly matches with the offset of the IRS differential as you pointed out. Maybe check the orientation of your transmission mount plate? Maybe it doesn't hurt anything. But the offset is all by design.

[jdavis500]

Thank you for the confirmation. I recalled that the shifter on the TKO 600 has to be rotated so the shifter is further forward. This will allow me some space to get the transmission a little more in line with the differential. After removing the bolts on the shifter plate, I wasn't sure how to remove the plate. Mike Forte told me to give it just a little knock to break the silicone seal and voila, now I can flip it. I haven't mastered searching in the forums. I can't seem to figure out how to search a phrase like "transmission mount". Inestead, I get all entries that contain those words individually, but not as a phrase. Speaeking of transmissionmount for the TKO 600 and the Coyote, the FFR tech advised me to place the orient the "U" shaped mounting plate with the arms of the "U" forward". The shock mount and matching hardened plate are bolted directly to the trans and then the shock mount to the "U" plate. He said not to use the mount extender with the slots in it for this transmission. I haven't gotten a chance to put these all together yet. Assuming it fits, I will post some pictures.




IMG_0149a.jpg

[jdavis500]

The shifter is rotated and the transmission mounted. The advice from FFR didn't seem to work. The "U" shaped transmission mounting plate worked in the opposite position with the arms of the "U" facing the rear. I used the shock mount with the matching hardened steel plate only(didn't use the mount extender). The shock absorbing mount bolted directly to the transmission and the transmission mounting plate. The trans is now offset to the right and more inline with the differential. It's off by maybe 1/2".



***Update***

I later noticed that the oil pan is sitting below the frame and at a slight angle with the rear end of the pan lower than the front. In addition, the QT bellhousing flange is significantly exposed below the frame. It looks like I need to fab some spacers. I will plan on placing about 3/4" worth of spacer on the top of the trans shock mount as described elsewhere. In addition, I will grind down the exposed flange.

[edwardb]

That looks perfect. Whatever minor difference you have between the transmission and diff is easily handled by the U-joints on the driveshaft. In fact, it's desirable to have them slightly offset. Not exactly on zero. That extra plate you're talking about is for the Roadster. It's definitely required there for the Coyote since it's a bit shorter than other engine options. But clearly the Coupe doesn't need it. The transmission mount is a completely different design. Add it to your "not used" box.

[jdavis500]

I later noticed that the oil pan is sitting below the frame and at a slight angle with the rear end of the pan lower than the front. In addition, the QT bellhousing flange is significantly exposed below the frame. It looks like I need to fab some spacers. I will plan on placing about 3/4" worth of spacer on the top of the trans shock mount as described elsewhere. In addition, I will grind down the exposed flange.

[edwardb]

I later noticed that the oil pan is sitting below the frame and at a slight angle with the rear end of the pan lower than the front. In addition, the QT bellhousing flange is significantly exposed below the frame. It looks like I need to fab some spacers. I will plan on placing about 3/4" worth of spacer on the top of the trans shock mount as described elsewhere. In addition, I will grind down the exposed flange.

Did you get the FF Coyote installation kit? It contains 1/2-inch spacers that are installed inside the Energy Suspension motor mounts, which I assume you're using. With the spacers installed, the pan will be at or slightly above the frame. Slightly lower in the back is normal. I too found the QuickTime bell needs to be trimmed. But I'd recommend getting the engine spacers installed first, which will reduce the amount you need to trim.

[mtwarog]

I can't seem to figure out how to search a phrase like "transmission mount". Inestead, I get all entries that contain those words individually, but not as a phrase.

Hi,

Here's a trick for searching. Use google and put this into the search bar:
"transmission mount" site:thefactoryfiveforum.com

By putting the search in quotes, you will get those words in order. The site:thefactoryfiveforum.com will search the site.


Your building coming along nice. Thanks for posting your progress.

Thanks.
-Matt

[jdavis500]

Thank you Matt. I have used that technique elsewhere, but hadn't thought of using it for this site. EdwardB, I have the mount spacers in place. The front of the pan is above the bottom of the rails and the rear of the pan is below the rails by abot 3/16" and the flange even more(too much bell exposed to trim). By placing the spacers at the transmission mount, the rear pan is above the rail and the flange is trimmable.

[edwardb]

EdwardB, I have the mount spacers in place. The front of the pan is above the bottom of the rails and the rear of the pan is below the rails by about 3/16" and the flange even more(too much bell exposed to trim). By placing the spacers at the transmission mount, the rear pan is above the rail and the flange is trimmable.

Looks like that's the way to go. Sounds good. You apparently have the QuickTime RM-6081 SFI bell housing? We've found on the Roadster builds as well that the bottom circle on that particular bell housing extends below the chassis tubes. A little late, but for reference the non-SFI RM-6080 doesn't have that bottom circle.

[jdavis500]

The drain valve on the bottom right side of the radiator makes for a tight squeeze when the radiator is fitted within the radiator tunnel. FFR recommended a 1/4" hex plug in place of the valve. Fixed the problem. The left lower radiator bracket makes it tough to get good clearance for the radiator supply to the engine. I bent and twisted the rear end of the bracket to allow a little more clearance. I also notched the aluminum panel to give better clearance for the lower tube. There is a tight fit between the left LCA bracket and the swaybar in this area, but now the "cool tubes" lower and upper tubes fit fairly well. It was necessary to put some wedge cuts and some relief cuts in the fuel line used to cushion the radiator where it contacts the lower brackets. Making a little progress here.

[edwardb]

The drain valve on the bottom right side of the radiator makes for a tight squeeze when the radiator is fitted within the radiator tunnel. FFR recommended a 1/4" hex plug in place of the valve. Fixed the problem. The left lower radiator bracket makes it tough to get good clearance for the radiator supply to the engine. I bent and twisted the rear end of the bracket to allow a little more clearance. I also notched the aluminum panel to give better clearance for the lower tube. There is a tight fit between the left LCA bracket and the swaybar in this area, but now the "cool tubes" lower and upper tubes fit fairly well. It was necessary to put some wedge cuts and some relief cuts in the fuel line used to cushion the radiator where it contacts the lower brackets. Making a little progress here.

Good to hear you were able to get the Boig cool tubes to fit that lower hose connection. I bought them too but haven't tried to install yet. I too bent the LH bracket and moved the radiator to the left as far as possible. That seems to give more clearance. Also cut the fuel line cushion to make it fit better. We seem to be on similar paths... I see you have AC listed in your build plan. For that bottom RH side, you're going to find the lower hose connection for the condenser is going to be obstructed in the same place as that valve. Also, based on the mock-up I've done, the nose hinges hit the bottom of that same tunnel piece on both sides. I haven't yet, but I'm planning to just cut the bottom of the aluminum tunnel sides panel off even with the 3/4-inch tube. I don't think that will hurt anything and clears away the obstructions.

[jdavis500]

Good to hear you were able to get the Boig cool tubes to fit that lower hose connection. I bought them too but haven't tried to install yet. I too bent the LH bracket and moved the radiator to the left as far as possible. That seems to give more clearance. Also cut the fuel line cushion to make it fit better. We seem to be on similar paths... I see you have AC listed in your build plan. For that bottom RH side, you're going to find the lower hose connection for the condenser is going to be obstructed in the same place as that valve. Also, based on the mock-up I've done, the nose hinges hit the bottom of that same tunnel piece on both sides. I haven't yet, but I'm planning to just cut the bottom of the aluminum tunnel sides panel off even with the 3/4-inch tube. I don't think that will hurt anything and clears away the obstructions.

Thanks EdwardB. To be honest, I am a little intimidated by the AC installation for some reason. I guess it is time to order it and dive in.

[edwardb]

Thanks EdwardB. To be honest, I am a little intimidated by the AC installation for some reason. I guess it is time to order it and dive in.

Yea, I hear you. I've never done anything like it either. Fortunately, the instructions are very detailed and the supplied kit seems well thought out. I'm making a couple of minor changes with the vents and integrating the controls into a custom switch panel rather than the standalone they provide. But other than that, plan to install it exactly as shown. Like you said, just dive in.

[jdavis500]

Just wondering if I need to adjust the position of the coolant fill. Does it need to be above the reservoir? Can I drop the reservoir lower(and further forward) to gain more room?

[edwardb]

Just wondering if I need to adjust the position of the coollant fill. Does it need to be above the reservoir? Can I drop the reservoir lower(and further forward) to gain more room?

That's clearly the Moroso Mustang/Coyote radiator expansion tank. Same as I used (and others) on Roadster #8674 and plan to use on my Coupe as well. If you plumb the tank using the Ford connections, as opposed to how FF shows in the Coyote installation instructions with conventional overflow tank, you don't need the T-filler in the upper radiator hose. Everything is done through the cap on the expansion tank. Works great BTW.

[jdavis500]

Fitting some engine bay componenets. Not sure if this Moroso tank is going to be a good choice. This is all new to me, but there doesn't seem to be much space for this shape. The position shown doesn't look great and will require some tight turns on hoses. A mre vertical tank might be a better option. I wonder if there are other air intake options.





IMG_0269a.jpgIMG_0271a.jpg

[forcefed1]

I struggled with the center line too.
Here's what I suggest.

Let your exhaust headers determine it.
the tranny and the rear end can be off the center line all day and you'll never care. When I bolted up my exhaust and headers everyone could see it.
I ended up slotting the holes for the tyranny and letting it float until I centered the side pipes. Then I bolted the tranny there.
I ended up about 3/4 " off center with the tail of the tranny. now teh side pipes and headers are right with the chassis.

[TheBabyBadger]

Great build so far! I'm waiting for an email confirming my kit shipped! So I'm STOKED right now. The coolant resevoir has been a google search item for me for weeks now. Is that Moroso MPN# 63783?

That's the one I planned to use. Can it be mounted on the radiator side of the two openings or will it obstruct the hood? You could also go rear fire wall...?

The tank should be just slightly above the coolant fill and I'll piggy back EdwardB, plum just like the OE system. AIR always finds the highest point to pocket, so it's best if it's just slightly above, it will also make burping and topping off the system much easier.

My plan was to 90 the intake off the engine and stuff it in the LF corner of the engine bay. Again... I'm planning these things without the car here yet. Did I mention I'm excited? LOL... Good luck. I'm subscribed!

[jdavis500]

I struggled with the center line too.
Here's what I suggest.

Let your exhaust headers determine it.
the tranny and the rear end can be off the center line all day and you'll never care. When I bolted up my exhaust and headers everyone could see it.
I ended up slotting the holes for the tyranny and letting it float until I centered the side pipes. Then I bolted the tranny there.
I ended up about 3/4 " off center with the tail of the tranny. now teh side pipes and headers are right with the chassis.

I think that is a good point about the exhaust having the least room for error in terms of engine alignment.

[jdavis500]

Thank you EdwardB for the education regarding an adjustable circle cutter to cut holes for the guages. I bought the one you recommended and it works like a charm. I finally settled on a spot to mount the coolant reservoir and I like how it fits. It could be a little higher, but it is a tricky mount. Splurged on a nice right angle drill attachment and life has been much easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-...+drill+adapter

The $9 option is for the birds. I recieved the AC kit last week and will start to make sense of that this week.

[jdavis500]

BabyBadger,

Congrats on the order. You will be surprised how quickly the engine bay fills up once a coyote is put in. I think the current position is the only opiton for this coolant reservoir with this engine in this car. It would be nice if it were more vertical and less horizontal.

[Dlirium]

Great stuff! Have you run any of your electrical yet? Specifically thinking of how to get the front harness routed...any electrical picts would be appreciated!!!

[jdavis500]

The CNC Triple Reservoir fits snugly on the DS frame triangle. My rivnuts are a little off so it is slightly uncentered in the space, but works great. I made a backer plate to cover the rear of the reservoir mount and to improve the mount strength. There will be a few rivets mounting the mounting plate to the frame that are not seen. I plan on sending the reservoir out to powdercoat. You can see by the tape on the engine bay frame rail tat the Coyote is a very tight fit requirin some twistis and turns to get it in.

Dlirium, I haven't started electrical yet. I think I will mount the ECM going thru the center of the firewall with the rear extending toward the cabin. This is new to me, so any input is welcome.

[edwardb]

I think I will mount the ECM going thru the center of the firewall with the rear extending toward the cabin. This is new to me, so any input is welcome.

Since you already have the Gen 2 Coyote, I assume you know the harness connections for the engine to the computer are at the front RH side of the engine and integrated into the rest of the engine wiring so not readily moved. I've seen where guys have installed the computer in the firewall as you're describing, but that's mainly with the Gen 1 Coyote. Mike shows mounting the Gen 2 computer in the firewall, so obviously it's possible. But some level of unlacing and/or modifications to the harness will be necessary to get it there. It's going to depend on how comfortable you are doing that, plus how it relates to the bigger picture of where everything else fits, the cables route, etc. My main thought would be to lay out the entire installation, including the the RF harness and the heat/AC, before deciding anything.

For my Gen 2 Coyote Roadster build, I ended up leaving the computer near the RH side where the engine cables reached without modification, and FF now provides a mounting bracket for that. One came with the Coyote installation kit I ordered for the Coupe, but it's the same one and haven't decided yet if it works for the Coupe or if that's the best location. I don't have my engine yet, so can't offer much more input.

[jdavis500]

I decided to pull out the harness and try to work on ECM placement. With the ECM mounting bracket kit that came with the kit retired, I attached the engine harness first. Not many options there. Top of PS footwell or front. Not great options especially with AC. I suppose it could be mounted somewhere vertically between the frame rails to to the side of the engine bay. That is less than ideal. I began to unravel parts of the harness and looks like I can comfortably mount the ECM in the firewall. I don't have enough experience to know if I can spare the space in this area for the ECM. I guess that will answer itself eventually. With the firewall in place, I am a little surprised with the pitch of the dash top. I lost all my pics prior to removing all the aluminum. Does this look right. It feels awkward. Seems like it should be flat.

[edwardb]

Good stuff. Interested to see what you do. Curious why you consider hanging from the frame rail less than ideal? Maybe concerned with engine or header heat? That's actually similar to where they're commonly mounted in the Roadster. Actually a little further from the header on that side, and it hasn't been a problem. Those PCM's are designed to work in the under hood environment. That's where they mounted in the Mustang.

The top of the dash has about a 10 degree slope up toward the front. Yours looks OK.

[jdavis500]

Good stuff. Interested to see what you do. Curious why you consider hanging from the frame rail less than ideal? Maybe concerned with engine or header heat? That's actually similar to where they're commonly mounted in the Roadster. Actually a little further from the header on that side, and it hasn't been a problem. Those PCM's are designed to work in the under hood environment. That's where they mounted in the Mustang.

The top of the dash has about a 10 degree slope up toward the front. Yours looks OK.

Yes, definitely concerned about heat, but I hear you on that. Visually, the PCM seems to be out there when the hood is up. The space is more on display in the coupe than the roadster. Add the harness... maybe i shoukd broaden my horizons.

[Bob Brandle]

Great dialog, troubleshooting and solutions here guys. Thanks jdavis500, Edwardb, forcefed1 and all. Just placed my order for the Type 65 Coupe a week ago and soaking in all of the knowledge and developing my plans.

[jdavis500]

After a lot of thought, I committed to the location of my PCM. Options were:

1. Somewhere in the engine bay on the passenger side. The AC drier and the side engine bay panel made that difficult.
2. Thru the firewall right of midline(like Mike Everson). This is a reasonable spot. I was concerned that AC duct work would quickly make space an issue behind the dash, especially since I am going with 4 AC vents(2 in center and 2 outside) and 2 defrost vents. It may be possible to squeeze these in among the wiring and the PCM, but I am skeptical.
3. At the top of the transmission tunnel. The downside is that the back of the PCM needs to go thru the top/forward transmission tunnel aluminum panel. The back of the PCM may also interfere with switches in the dash.

I went with option 3. It is not the purest design, but it will look good from the outside and it will give me more room for ductwork and wiring. To do this, I had to make a cut-out in the transmission tunnel aluminum. I also needed to tilt the PCM slightly down toward the rear to avoid the ignition switch. I will fab a lower aluminum dash(below the dash and over the trans tunnel, thanks EdwardB) that will close this all in and I will take care to seal well around the PCM where it penetrates the aluminum. Rivnuts and a bracket have made this a sturdy location. I have run the engine harness and the Controls Unit and they seem to work well here. There is about 4 feet of thick bundle at the start of the Controls Unit that needs to be dealt with. If I mount the DPB just outside the transmission tunnel, I can loop, tie and hang the excess wiring inside the tunnel(Thank you Mike Everson).

Fuse Panel

I found 2 viable options here.

1. Right of steering column behind dash(like Mike Everson). No exposed wires from driver's POV, but again worried about excess ductwork.
2. Driver's left knee below chassis SN. Potentially exposed wires, but leaves room for access and ductwork. I plan on fabbing an aluminum panel to cover this. I haven't seen this in other builds, but I assume it can work and be cosmetic. I don't think I would match the full angled frame brace. May have to be creative here. I used the same bracket technique as EdwardB to bracket this panel(Thank you Paul).

I must admit that wiring all these harnesses was intimidating. I have a long way to go, but as I have chipped away, I feel more and more confident that I can complete the task.

Currently, I am pulling the engine to finalize some engine bay aluminum and to fix my clutch fork and get comfortable with the hydraulic clutch set-up.

My wife does not understand why I would want to torture myself with a project like this, but I am loving it.







IMG_0654.jpgIMG_0449.jpgIMG_0450.jpgIMG_0658.jpg

[jdavis500]

Here is a quick update on a few things. I will try to post more. I tore down a bunch of stuff for powdercoat, installed powdercoat and now I am in the reinstall phase.

I got the Mastercool crimper for the AC lines. I found that the crimper squishes some of the hose out of the fitting and between the crimps on either side, elongates the hose by around a half inch. I never retested the hose after I crimped both ends until my reinstall. It took a long time for me to figure out why the hose was too long. Sooo, ordered four more fittings and shortened the hose. Now fits no problem. Some things come with experience.

The lower hose at the condenser came into contact with the frame and I had to notch that out to get clearance.

Here are some more finished pictures of PCM placement.

[David Williamson]

Getting the short hoses from the evaporator to the bulkhead fitted was a pain. I found a route to fit them without cutting the frame by moving the heater around until it fit. If I was to do it again I would ditch the bulkhead fitting and use grommets like one of the other builders here did.
David W

[jdavis500]

Starting to work on wiring and looking for a PDB location. I hadn't seen this location. It keps thigs clean with the excess harness length tucked above transmission. Does anyone see any issues with installing here. Seems to have good access, while preventing clutter.IMG_1322a.jpg

[P100DHG]

I know it's not apples-to-apples but here's a piano-hinged cover for my roadster trunk dropped-box:





It might give you an idea how to proceed?

What did you use to polish the panels like that?

[jdavis500]

What did you use to polish the panels like that?

Agreed. They look great, but not my post.

[edwardb]

Starting to work on wiring and looking for a PDB location. I hadn't seen this location. It keps thigs clean with the excess harness length tucked above transmission. Does anyone see any issues with installing here. Seems to have good access, while preventing clutter.IMG_1322a.jpg

Should work there. As long as you're not hitting anything on the back of the engine, which would be pretty obvious since it's right there. You may need to tweak the front power connection a little, including attaching the main power with a right angle terminal. That's what I did on my Roadster since it was also right behind the engine like that. You do need to be able to get the cover off occasionally, and it might not be too handy for that. But no big deal. I've had the cover on #8674 off maybe twice in two years of running. Both times to find there wasn't anything wrong, e.g. blown fuse, etc. I'll eventually be posting pictures of where I mounted mine on my Coupe build. In that same back panel area, but on the other side and higher. But then most everything I'm doing including cable routing and PCM mount is different than yours. Lots if ways to approach these things. What you're doing makes good sense.

[jdavis500]

Should work there. As long as you're not hitting anything on the back of the engine, which would be pretty obvious since it's right there. You may need to tweak the front power connection a little, including attaching the main power with a right angle terminal. That's what I did on my Roadster since it was also right behind the engine like that. You do need to be able to get the cover off occasionally, and it might not be too handy for that. But no big deal. I've had the cover on #8674 off maybe twice in two years of running. Both times to find there wasn't anything wrong, e.g. blown fuse, etc. I'll eventually be posting pictures of where I mounted mine on my Coupe build. In that same back panel area, but on the other side and higher. But then most everything I'm doing including cable routing and PCM mount is different than yours. Lots if ways to approach these things. What you're doing makes good sense.

Thanks for the feedback. I made a bracket for the PDB to sit on because it is not very stable if mounted by bolts and rivnuts alone. I set it up so that if I can't get good access, I could unblot and retract. I did break down the harness a little to give me more length to the branch that leads to the PDB.

[jdavis500]

I am currently working on plumbing for my Moroso 63806 coolant tank. I have got my hoses(Thank you, EdwardB for providing the part numbers). The only work-around here is for the hose that attaches to the forward nipple(?) on the tank. It will connect to a hose barb that on the upper side of the radiator(DS). I am planning on ordering this barb today. The only difference from this and the MK4 setup is that this hose needs to be extended to reach the radiator. I plan to run the factory hose to the DS, under where the UCA attaches, using a hose barb union/worm drive clamps to attach a new hose here that will extend foward to the radiator hose barb mentioned above. I haven't seen this setup in action, but seems like a good plan to me.

[jdavis500]

Powder coat, for the most part, is finished. Spray on Lizard Skin Heat and Sound also. Spray on insulation was a big production. Lots of masking and unmasking. Drying and curing. I picked up the sprayer and the full cannister wasn't fully locked so the whole thing spilled on the floor. The finished product looks great and I am confident it will perform, but thinking maybe I would go with stick on in the future. Especially since no one will ever see it. I didn't fully caulk or close gaps because I thought the insulation would be enough to seal them. I would like to use a rope of some putty like JB weld that will bond to everything and be hard and waterproof. Open to any ideas of what product would be nice. Maybe an elastic contruction adhesive. I feel like the silicone might not be durable enough in these particular joints(particularly around the footboxes). Caulk with insulation over the top would be fine, but that isn't what I will have when I patch these areas. I felt like the insulation sprayed better at a psi higher than recommended. I liked it at about 75psi. Heat was second and easier to work with because the sound insulation spurted out in clumps.

Now that I can start finalizing some wiring in the cabin, I am looking forward to switch layout. I took a look at New Vintage USA's switch panels and I like them. The switches are simple and have backlit laser etched placards above each switch that look appropriate for the period. They can make switch panels of any shape and size. Some include guages like boost and N2O for instance. I have a panel that I fabbed for the upper console just beneath the dash piece. Proportionally, I like this custom panel in this location. I don't know much about the wiring of said panel with regard to the LED backlighting, but I assume it won't be a problem. I also partly mocked up a panel in about the same size. The fit will be tight behind my fabbed console panel will be tight because of the pitch of the forward console panel. I am pretty sure I can make it work. I think it will look great and be a good impact for the money spent. The only switches I plan on having in the upper dash is headlights and my Guard Dawg PBS-I - 25 mm Billet Brushed Stainless keyless ignition. Still need to place the horn and some indicator lights in the cluster panel. Any comments appreciated.

http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerc...switch-panels/

[jdavis500]

It's been a while since my last update. Partly because I didn't think I had much to add to the "knowledge base" This time I have a general wire routing question. I was looking at the DS front of the engine regarding wire routing. I tucked everything cleanly between cylinder head nooks and coolant plumbing crannies. After a couple of go kart rides with a hot engine, I started thinking maybe I should not be so aggressive with my wire routing. Everything is in a Ford loom for the most part. I just don't know how well the wires tolerate the heat. I am posting a picture where I actually created a little space here and there. Specifically, I am referring to the wires going to the alterantor, water temp, oil pressure sensor. I know the wires are hard to really pickout, so in general, can the loom touch hot things?

One setback that I had documented in "Go Kart Fail" was the fact that I hadn't setup the pivot stud correctly in the bellhousing. My understanding was that the clutch fork angle was supposed to be just rear of perpindicular to the drivetrain. As a result, when I mated the transmission to the engine, the clutch was always engaged and the car went nowhere when I tried to let out the clutch. It all makes sense now. Man, that was a hassle taking everything apart and putting it back together back together. The end pivot stud depth for my quicktime housing with TKO600 and Coyote was fully seated in the mount. Even then, I think I could have used a another turn deeper to allow the fork to be completely free of pressure when not engaged.

Alignment was fun. I used the Longacre toe-in plteas, camber/caster digital guage and the Quicktrick turnplates. I'm sure alignment shops have a system down, but I still have a new respect for that job. Its a lot of work. Back and forth setting camber, caster, toe and repeat. Eventually, it all works.

I am curious where others have installed the GPS receiver for the Vintage guages. Does it just go anywhere? Does it have to be mounted flat rather than vertical? I seem to have misplaced my directions.



Over the weekend I had my first wire short issue. I had the starter switch rolling aroud on the floor of the cabin. The 4 post screws around the starter switch are prominent and apprently can ground easily unless you wrap them with something like electrical tape. The starter wire shorted which made a lot of smoke and melted the plastic wire insulation. In retrospect, it was a good thing it happened because it made me double down on my wiring knowledge. I still have plenty to learn, but I now have "the fear of God" regarding shorts that can start a fire. I am currently trying to figure out which wires need a circuit breaker that don't already have a fuse. It is one thing to wire so that things work and another to wire them safely.

TBH, I haven't buttoned up my wiring enough to post detail shots, but I will when I am at a more worthy point.

[David Williamson]

I put the GPS sensor on top of the dash left side so it can "see" through the windshield, it's black on black so it is hidden. I have black vinyl covering the dash.
David W