Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[Bleach]

Hi,
I just want to say thanks for putting such detail in your build thread. I look forward to your updates and check back way too often. I hope to build one myself in a couple of years.

Brian in AK

[edwardb]

Hi,
I just want to say thanks for putting such detail in your build thread. I look forward to your updates and check back way too often. I hope to build one myself in a couple of years.

Brian in AK

Hey Brian. Thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated. I sometimes struggle with how much/too much detail. But I get a lot of comments, mostly off-line, similar to yours. Will stay the course with detail but not show tightening every screw. I seem to be kind of in a weekly update mode, which I enjoy doing.

Hopefully you can join the party sometime in the future.

[BTHWarrior]

Paul, another awesome build thread! Quality build with great detail. Quick question, since you have now used two different windshield wiper set-ups. Will the wiper set up you are using on the coupe work on the roadster too?

Roy

[edwardb]

Paul, another awesome build thread! Quality build with great detail. Quick question, since you have now used two different windshield wiper set-ups. Will the wiper set up you are using on the coupe work on the roadster too?

Roy

Thanks! Having fun (again). Obviously I can't answer with 100% confidence without actually trying it, but I don't see any reason why the Specialty Power Windows wiper kit wouldn't work in a Roadster. All the parts are slightly over-sized compared to the Lucas style parts. But I think everything would still fit.

[Automan]

Hi Edward, do we have to ask for these updated parts delivery from Factory Five? That is totally amazing that they are doing this.

thanks
Nelson

[edwardb]

Hi Edward, do we have to ask for these updated parts delivery from Factory Five? That is totally amazing that they are doing this.

thanks
Nelson

I was told they were sending out 60 sets. 30 have already been sent. 30 were in the process as of a couple weeks ago. Mine were in the second group and after asking they sent it since I was at the point in my build where I needed the parts. As long as you're in this first 60 kits sold, you should be getting the parts. But any doubt, just call them. I'm assuming that future kit deliveries will have the updated parts from the start.

[Automan]

I was told they were sending out 60 sets. 30 have already been sent. 30 were in the process as of a couple weeks ago. Mine were in the second group and after asking they sent it since I was at the point in my build where I needed the parts. As long as you're in this first 60 kits sold, you should be getting the parts. But any doubt, just call them. I'm assuming that future kit deliveries will have the updated parts from the start.

Thats awesome, mine was number #50.

Thankyou

[edwardb]

Bit of a slow week on the build. Have managed to get a few smaller tasks done that were on my list but are neither very noteworthy or photogenic. In addition, spent some time mounting the A/C condenser in front of the radiator. Kind of mixed and matched a little with the parts provided in the kit, but it worked out OK. Decided it was best to have the lower hose stay inside the radiator tunnel rather than the go around the outside like the top hose. Just worked better plus avoided interference with the frame and sheet metal in that area that I mentioned in a previous update. The instructions say to go on whichever side works best. My main accomplishment was getting a driveshaft safety loop installed.

Before that, thought I would share a picture from a car show last Monday. For the last couple of years our club, Great Lakes Cobra Club, has supported a car show at a local high school technical campus. Automotive Technology is one of their programs. They have a shop with multiple lifts, bunch of great equipment, an extensive welding area, and body shop with a mixing booth and beautiful downdraft paint booth. Would be a killer place to work on our builds! Anyway, each year they invite local clubs to bring their cars and interact with the students. The date had to be rescheduled due to rain, but the new date was beautiful and sunny. Probably affected the turnout a bit, but still was good. All of the students, not just the automotive groups, are allowed to come out and check things over. I had good old #8674 there. Along with my usual car show sign, had another that I made for Autorama last year with a number of construction pictures and descriptions. That turned out to be very interesting for the students and led to some good interaction and promoting our hobby with the younger set. Here’s my Roadster between my club buddies Superformance and a brand new Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat. Obviously before the crowds arrived.



For the driveshaft safety loop, looked at several options and decided to get the rather generic one available at Summit, Jegs, etc. Seems solid enough and best I could tell from catalog dimensions, would fit in the Coupe chassis. So ordered it from Jegs (Summit was out of stock) and just finished the install. Easiest would have been to bolt it on from the bottom. Even though it would have been pretty minimal, just couldn’t bring myself to interrupt that nice smooth chassis bottom or having anything hanging lower than the frame. So mounted it on top. Trimmed it to fit between the cockpit floor sheet metal and installed three heavy duty 5/16-inch rivet nuts on each side. Took a little time because the location for the rivet nuts wasn’t real handy, even with all the panels removed. But it’s done and I’m satisfied it’s very rigid and strong. Hopefully it will never be needed.

Trimmed, new holes drilled, ready for installation.



Installation completed, viewed from the top.



From the bottom.



Also this week took all the aluminum panels off except for the front foot boxes. Just a few pieces left there to fit and drill. Will finish those up when I pull the engine/trans mockup out in the near future. Then everything off to powder coat.



This weekend we’re off for Texas to visit our youngest son and daughter-in-law. So the build will take a week or so off. Enjoying the build a bunch. But a break every once in a while is good too.

[Fixit]

Great to hear that a HS still has an "automotive" program... Around here "Industrial Arts" were the 1st things to get cut, then the Music & Arts programs de-funded.

Having been one who's shot 2 driveshafts out from under various cars (with loops thankfully) - but usually you're dealing with 4 feet of tube, not 4 inches ! The short driveshafts in these things almost lend themselves to a "scatterblanket/containment" device.

[GoDadGo]

Since I can't work on mine much, it's always a pleasure to watch yours come together.
Very Nice Sir Paul, Very Nice!

[Automan]

I received my Updated Aluminum kit!!! Awesome. Cant say enough good stuff about Factory five.

[edwardb]

As updates goes, this one is especially minor. After a great week+ away visiting family in Texas, back home in (much cooler!) Michigan now. Had some things to do once we got back including hacking through my yard. But last couple of days started back on the Coupe build so will report in.

With all the sheet metal gone, set the gas tank back in place and made up the SS flex lines between the pump hangar and the 3/8-inch rigid SS. Used Aeroquip TFE Racing Hose and Aeroquip FBM1103 -6 AN PTFE Racing Hose Ends. I’ve used these parts several times before and assembly is pretty straightforward. I’ve never tested before installation and haven’t ever had a problem. But decided this time to up my game a little and test them after assembly. Picked up a Fragola Performance Systems 900666 AN hose pressure test kit. Pretty simple setup with a plug for one end, and fitting with a Schrader valve for the other end. With the plugs in place, put in 70 PSI of compressed air (Coyote runs at around 55 PSI) and dunked in water. No bubbles is good. All passed OK. I didn’t quite tighten one test fitting all the way, and sure enough a solid stream of bubbles when dunked. Nice peace of mind knowing they should be good when gas is added.

Just a quick editorial comment. Not real hard to notice I didn’t use any of the kit provided fuel line components. Nothing wrong with them, and many use them just fine. But my choice was to go a little different direction and what I’ve done on the last three builds. What this shows is what happens once you start down the slippery slope of changes. First up is using rigid 3/8 SS for both supply and return (kit is steel 5/16 and 1/4). Then going with the full 3/8 Pro-M pump hangar which has -6 AN fittings. Then going with the larger Trick Flow fuel filter. Pretty soon you’re all in with -AN fittings and SS flex and the rest is history. All the kit parts get left in the boxes. The final result is a very robust and (hopefully) lifetime quality fuel system that should easily handle the Coyote. So far so good with a nearly exact setup on #8674. But much of this is a personal choice, stuff I like to do, and isn’t meant as a negative toward the kit components. Similar comments could be made about my choice to also use rigid SS for the brake lines. Ok, back to the build.

Here are the installed fuel lines, and also now finally routed and anchored the rear harness with a few more padded clamps and 3/16-inch rivets. It’s offset to one side to stay clear of the trunk box shown previously.





Also finalized the routing for the rear harness along the back of the chassis. Plenty of wire on the passenger side. Just enough on the driver’s side. Next step is hook up the lights when the body goes on.



Spent several hours today taking things apart getting ready to remove the mock-up engine block and transmission assembly. Then will finish fitting and drilling the last of the aluminum panels and get everything over to the powder coater. This isn’t much of a picture, but shows how the radiator needs to be out in order for the 2-ton HF hoist to reach far enough into the engine compartment. Also shows the newly installed modified front inner splash guards received in the update package from Factory Five.



Spent some time over the last couple weeks studying the various products available for a keyless pushbutton start setup. Decided to go with the pretty simple Digital Guard Dawg PBS-I. Ordered it direct since I wanted something other than their standard start button. So don’t have it yet. But when I do, will test and do a write-up about it plus some of the other electronic aspects of the build. It’s pretty interesting when you line it all up to see how much technology there is in a 60’s era replica when using modern stuff. More later.

[Automan]

I absolutely love reading your post!!!! learning alot.

I have a silly question for the you and the builders out there. So the kit provided a fuel pickup with a returnline. So i assume this is for fuel injection only. I am installing a 65 289 naturally aspirated. What do i do with this return? create a second vent or just plug it it up.

Nelson

[Automan]

Also, Are your riviting your panels on or welding them. Just wondering what those copper peices spaced out?

thanks
Nelson

[edwardb]

I absolutely love reading your post!!!! learning alot.

I have a silly question for the you and the builders out there. So the kit provided a fuel pickup with a returnline. So i assume this is for fuel injection only. I am installing a 65 289 naturally aspirated. What do i do with this return? create a second vent or just plug it it up.

Nelson

Thanks. By normally aspirated I'm assuming you mean carb and mechanical fuel pump? If so, you only need one supply line from the fuel tank to the engine. The kit supplied pickup can absolutely be used. Just close off the return line at the pickup. Some go ahead and choose to install a return line in case they ever decide to go with fuel injection. Then block the line at the source.

BTW, the pickup provided with the kit isn't really for fuel injection unless you use an external pump. Most I think (myself included) do use an in-tank fuel pump for fuel injection. Then the kit piece isn't used and new one with provision for a pump is required.

Also, Are your riviting your panels on or welding them. Just wondering what those copper peices spaced out?

thanks
Nelson

No welding in my garage... I've used flush mounted solid rivets in a few places. I'm guessing that's what you're seeing. Mostly in the dash pictures. I use them sometimes where I've done some custom fabrication or want to bury the head. I set them with a small anvil and a hammer. Pretty low tech.

[WIS89]

Paul-

Great work as always! I like the choices you are making, and appreciate the explanation that accompanies them.

You are making the coupe build look fairly effortless, which is meant as a compliment!

As with your other builds, thanks for letting us ride along with you.

Regards,

Steve

[edwardb]

Paul-

Great work as always! I like the choices you are making, and appreciate the explanation that accompanies them.

You are making the coupe build look fairly effortless, which is meant as a compliment!

As with your other builds, thanks for letting us ride along with you.

Regards,

Steve

Thanks Steve. Appreciate the positive and encouraging comments. You wouldn't think it was so effortless if you were watching me splitting my mock-up block from the bell housing this morning. Fought with it for quite a while until I realized I missed one of the mounting bolts. Duh... No way around it, these things are a lot of work. But it's fun and satisfying work, and the final result is a blast.

[JoeAIII]

Paul,
Good to see your build progressing.

Any word on the 2018 coyote and control pack?

[Automan]

Thankyou!! i will block it at the source just in case i ever go throttle body or fuel injection.

[edwardb]

Any word on the 2018 coyote and control pack?

Word from Ford this AM: Still on track for summer 2018 release, but the latter part of the summer. Nothing more specific than that, but seems still on track to meet my build schedule. I can work with that timeframe. Between finishing all the panels and getting them powder coated and installed, my heat/sound insulation completed, more electrical, and even starting some body fitting, I have plenty to keep me busy all summer.

[TheBabyBadger]

Spent some time over the last couple weeks studying the various products available for a keyless pushbutton start setup. Decided to go with the pretty simple Digital Guard Dawg PBS-I. Ordered it direct since I wanted something other than their standard start button. So don’t have it yet. But when I do, will test and do a write-up about it plus some of the other electronic aspects of the build. It’s pretty interesting when you line it all up to see how much technology there is in a 60’s era replica when using modern stuff. More later.

So I'm pretty sure you just spent $600 for me... THAT system is a MUST HAVE. It answers security and convenience all in one. What an AWESOME system. Love it!

BEAUTIFUL FUEL SYSTEM! Always enjoy checking out your progress, Paul! When I retire I'll have the time to dial my kits like yours! Of course... I am only getting ready to begin #1, so I guess I have some time. Absolutely amazing attention to detail!

[edwardb]

Been a little while since an update. I’ve been working on the build, but enough other life things going on have things slowed a bit. No worries. As of today, now have had all the aluminum panels fitted, drilled, and cleco’d in place. Only remaining panels are the splash guards – two in front and two in back – that will be fitted when the body is installed. I’ll be taking all the drilled and fitted panels to the powder coater next week.

Couple words about the Gen 3 Coupe aluminum panels. I didn’t count them to confirm, but seems like there’s more than on the Roadster. Or maybe I'm just tired of drilling... In general, I would say they all fit very well. I did tweak a few bends for the best fit. Also had to trim a few places to clear welds a little better. But I’m very satisfied with everything. One observation though. Because of the space frame design, and multiple frame and angle pieces, there are a lot of places where the frame tubes go through the aluminum. There are varying sized gaps with most of them that will need to be filled to get the cockpit airtight. Similar to the Roadster, just more of them. I’ll be using a combination of caulking and aluminum tape as I’ve done before. But that’s later. Also, again because of all the frame tubes and angles, be careful laying out where you put rivets. It would be real easy to put some where they're not accessible.

I did make one new panel. In another build thread I saw where the builder suggested a fill panel for the center area below the firewall in the engine compartment. I decided to do the same thing and finished it up this morning. I can’t see any downside to covering that area up. There will be some wiring behind it, so should look a little neater. I am hedging my bets though in case there’s something I’m missing. I drilled holes for the rivets in the new panel, but not in the frame yet. I’ll do that at time of installation, assuming all is OK. I’m tentatively planning to put the Coyote PDB in this area, or on the new panel directly, TBD when the engine is installed. I’ll have the master disconnect behind the panel with the switch lever in the cockpit.



On the passenger side footbox, installed my usual 10-32 nutserts for the access cover to the A/C evaporator and hoses.



These are the rest of the footbox and engine compartment panels now fitted and ready to go out for powder coat. Nothing too earth shattering here.









Yesterday I returned the Coyote block I borrowed for the engine/trans mockup. Now the real waiting begins for the (hopefully) Gen 3 Coyote crate. Also cleaned up the T-56 and hit it with a coat of Duplicolor engine ceramic clear. I’ve done that with my transmissions in the past and really helps to keep them neat and clean. If that’s important to you… Last week I trimmed the QuickTime bell housing and block plate. This to remove the 1-1/2 inches or so of the flange that extended below the frame as pictured in an earlier post. Have to say that bell housing material is tough. But it’s done, nice and straight and touched up. Looks like it came from the factory that way. I’ll post a picture when it’s installed. While all my panels are at the powder coater, planning to dive deeper into all the wiring. Plenty to do there.

I’m going to go off topic now. I’ll try to tread lightly, so bear with me. This is something I want to say. Hopefully it doesn't sound too much like a grumpy old grandpa. Which I am. But just the grandpa part. Most I think are aware there was an accident earlier this week with a Factory Five Roadster that resulted in the extremely unfortunate and untimely death of the driver/owner. Happened here in SE Michigan so is especially close to home. I actually drove through that immediate area running an errand in the DD yesterday. I didn’t know the gentleman, but still hits close to home in our close-knit community. My deepest and sincerest condolences to his family and friends. By all accounts he was an avid builder and supporter of our hobby. Out of respect and not having first hand knowledge, I’m not going to get into the details of what happened. But the press and police are reporting excessive speed as a contributing factor. This is a huge and sobering reminder to all of us to respect these cars for what they are. Properly built and setup, they are a blast to drive and in moderation don't have to be scary or necessarily dangerous. But we have to respect what they are at all times. A momentary lapse and the right combination of circumstances, and, well, this is what can happen. I am admittedly pretty conservative with my mostly street driving. Out of respect for the car, the law, and my own driving ability. But I'll admit I’ve had a few times that I’ve pushed a little where I shouldn’t have, and something happened I didn’t expect almost instantly. Nothing ever really bad or close to losing it. But a reminder of just how quickly things could go badly. I get a little nervous when I see threads talking about "ideal" horsepower, and the numbers go up and up. Many times by first time builders and only for street driving. Yes, the power is controlled by the driver's right foot. But the margin for error gets even smaller at these high HP's. Bottom line, unfortunately many of us act like this can't happen to us. We have to accept that it can. As the LEO said at my first build’s safety inspection, “Be careful out there.” We all need to be constantly reminded and on guard. RIP my brother.

[wareaglescott]

Well said on the last part Paul. Thanks for taking the time to say it. A good reminder to all of us.

[David Williamson]

Paul agree well said, have fun driving and keep the racing to the track.
do you have any pictures of the new aluminum parts that go behind the seats in the rear wheel well installed? I have the old parts installed and it looks like I will have to cut and modify them to get the new parts installed.
David W

[edwardb]

Do you have any pictures of the new aluminum parts that go behind the seats in the rear wheel well installed? I have the old parts installed and it looks like I will have to cut and modify them to get the new parts installed.
David W

I assume you're talking about the multi-bent somewhat small pieces that are new and provided in the update kit? That are intended to fill the opening in the front of the rear wheel wells? If so, no. I've received the pieces. But I had the rest of the sheet metal already fitted and drilled and then removed along with the body when the new parts arrived. So I haven't had a chance to try them. It will probably be a couple months at least before I'm back to that point with the body mounted. I hadn't heard the new parts required any trimming of the existing parts. But then the new parts aren't mentioned in the instructions either. Maybe someone else has gotten that far and can show us some pics.

[David Williamson]

yes those are the ones. My aluminum is mostly mounted, just have to get the new front spash shields powder coated. Maybe a call to FFR next week is the answer.
David W

[edwardb]

As more of the details of this build are coming together, I’m finding it fascinating to note how much modern electronic content it has. Certainly, a far cry from the 50+ years ago these cars started from. Some of it by choice. But some of it just representative of more current automotive practices. I thought it might be interesting to capture some of this in a post. I’ve spent most of my career in and around the automotive industry, and it’s especially interesting, at least for me, to note how I’ve had personal brushes with some of this along the way.

LED Lighting. I already did a post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post311486) about this, so won’t repeat it. But the build will have all LED lighting, including headlights, fog lights, all the marker lights, interior lights, etc. It’s hard to beat the excellent light output, low current draw, and longevity of LED’s. Other than the higher up front cost, no downside in my opinion. It’s typically necessary to change out the two flashers in the fuse panel for solid state versions, which I'm doing. Other than that, everything else works with the existing wiring, switches, etc. Did most of the same on #8674, and I like it a lot. Invention of LED’s is attributed to a GE scientist in the 60’s. So they’re about the same age as the cars we’re replicating.

Instrument Cluster. Many are using GPS speedo’s these days, and this build is no different. I have the Roadster Speedhut GPS speedo version in #8674, and I’ve been happy with it. GPS is fascinating, from its origins as a U.S. military system in the 80’s, to now used on everything from cell phones to pet trackers and who knows what else. I think most are pretty familiar with it, so won’t go any further other than to say GPS navigation in our cars is a marriage saver for me. But that’s a little off topic. Something else I find personally a little more interesting with this instrument cluster is the technology behind the gauges themselves. For decades, starting with the amp gauge in the original Ford Model T, gauges have been a mixture of coils, gears, bimetal strips, capillary tubes, and I’m sure more. Some of that is still around, but nearly all automotive gauges today are totally electronic with the needles swung by stepper motors. Including these. And a lot of fancy electronic circuits behind sensing whatever needs to be sensed and commanding the needles to move. Stepper motors were invented many years ago, but were one of many advancements from the space program. Apparently, carbon brushes don’t do well in space. Found their way into the emerging computer industry in disk drives, printers, etc. Then found their way into automotive with instrument clusters being just one of the applications. I happened to work for VDO at the time they were making them for Saturn. One of the very early users of all electronic instruments. In its early days, Saturn did a lot of things that were outside “normal” GM practices of the time, and this was one of them. The instrument cluster plant was in Winchester, Virginia, and later moved to Mexico. Spent a lot of time at both. Still a huge supplier to just about every car brand now as part of Continental. If you peel back the instrument panel in a modern car you’ll find the cluster is typically a single circuit board with everything surface mounted including the miniature stepper motors. Pretty cool stuff.



Coyote Crate Engine. Nearly everything on these engines is standard these days. Multi-port EFI, variable cams, PCM control, distributorless ignition (DIS) with electronic cam and crank sensors, O2 sensors, stepper motor throttle body with drive by wire, in-tank fuel pump, and more I’m not thinking of at the moment. I worked at the Philips plant in Indiana where DIS was invented and first manufactured. Wasn’t separate coil-on-plug at the time. But the concept was the same. Was originally introduced on the Buick 3800 V-6 in the 80’s. GM made millions of them, and so did we until the patent ran out. Also made them for Harley Davidson and Outboard Marine. Now DIS is pretty much standard for automotive. Haven’t seen a distributor on a modern engine for a long time. VDO, mentioned earlier, was one of the early pioneers of the in-tank fuel pumps. Still making them today. Spent lots of time at that plant in Mexico. Also worked at plants that made stepper motor throttle bodies, drive by wire pedals, fuel rails and injectors, and the current Gen 2 Coyote PCM. Small world.

Keyless Pushbutton Start. Nothing too earthshaking here, and no personal connections this time. But as mentioned before, decided to do keyless pushbutton start on this build using the PBS-I system from Digital Guard Dawg. They were out of stock when I initially ordered. But did finally receive the system late last week. I very carefully wired it all up on the bench just to confirm it works and exactly like I thought it would. It does. I put a light on each of the outputs (Acc 1, Acc 2, Ignition, and Start), hooked up to a power supply, and put it through its paces. It works like the DD style pushbutton start in our Dodge Durango, with the only exception that the brake has to be pushed to turn the engine off. Most DD’s are automatic transmission, and the pushbutton start won’t turn off unless in park. So for a manual shift car, this makes sense I guess. Installation should be easy enough. This version is just a single module. Other than needing power and a wire to the brake light switch, it wires just like the ignition switch and exactly duplicates the ignition switch function. Should be an easy plug and play including with the Coyote. Popped the cover off the module and took a look. I do stuff like that. Nice clean and well made circuit board. Has three large 60 amp relays. All good.



Headlight Control Module. One of the not so fun parts of these builds, IMO, is getting a DD quality low/high beam headlight setup including flash to pass which is also pretty standard on DD’s. Usually requires a couple relays, one of which has to be a latching type (which I’ve not had good luck with) and somewhat tedious wiring. During my second build (Roadster #7750) a few years ago, American Autowire introduced an electronic module that provided these functions. Really easy to wire and was seamless. I had very good success with it. Others on the forum used it, but a couple had some issues. Turns out users elsewhere were having problems too. American Autowire did some work, released a couple updates, and claimed the issue was interference with analog (not the newer digital versions) of MSD ignition boxes. The problems were apparently never resolved to their satisfaction, so American Autowire took it off the market. Since they worked fine for me, several years ago saw a new one on eBay and grabbed it as a spare. Then had a chance to get another, so got that one too. I put one of them in #8674, and it’s working perfectly. So with one left, will put it in the Coupe. I guess that means I can’t do any more builds since I’m out of headlight control modules.



T-56 Reverse Lockout Module. Found out after buying the 6-speed Tremec T-56 transmission I’m using in the Coupe that it has a solenoid controlled reverse gear lockout. As one who has accidentally made a few grinding sounds with the TKO going towards reverse while moving forward, I like this addition. Doing some research, I found there are several ways this can be dealt with. Some just muscle it into reverse against the solenoid. Others cut the spring in the solenoid to make it push in more easily. Both approaches strongly discouraged by Tremec. Obviously, better to use the solenoid as intended. Some add a pushbutton to power it manually when needed. Others wire a switch to the brake pedal and power it when the brake is pushed down. But the elegant way is with yet another electronic module that senses speed, and when stopped energizes the solenoid so that reverse is available. Once the car is back in motion, reverse is locked out. So I picked up one of those modules, as pictured. Also tested this on the bench with a light and the kit provided speed sensor in a drill. Works as advertised. With the speed sensor stopped, the light goes on, simulating powering the solenoid. Start the drill motor, simulating vehicle movement, and the light switches off. Lockout happening. I like it. I’ll use the built-in speed sensor in the T-56 and the speed sensor wires in the RF harness. But only for the lock-out module since the GPS speedo doesn’t need anything else.



Heater Control Valve. Finally, the heater control valve supplied in the FF Gen 3 Coupe A/C-Heater system also uses a control module and a motor on the valve itself.



OK, back to the build. This week all the sheet metal is going to powder coat. Until it comes back, going to work on wiring including how much of this stuff will be installed.

[Wilder]

Paul
As always your attention to detail is amazing. Since I run Dakota Digital in my 55 Belair with GPS speedo’s and TPS I wanted the same for my Daytona. I special order a set with TPS and a 200mph speedo (I did get an Edelbrock Supercharger Coyote). I will let you know how it works in 2 month once running.

[edwardb]

Yesterday I removed all the remaining aluminum panels from the chassis. Spent a couple hours getting them all cleaned up and burrs and sharp edges removed. Today dropped them off at the powder coater. All 50 pieces. My main contact wasn't there, so don't have an estimate on the time. Usually it takes a couple weeks. We'll see. I'm doing them in a dark silver/grey satin color. Same thing I used on #8674 that pretty closely matched the glimmer color Factory Five put on the 20th Anniversary chassis. Like the color and like how easy it is to keep clean. Should contrast nicely with the gloss black everywhere else. The chassis looks a little naked now. (Can I say that??) I made a quick temporary brace for the dash that holds it at the same level as the firewall. Planning to work on wiring and the A/C - Heat installation while I'm waiting for the panels to come back. I'm having some custom rocker switches made for the center switch panel I've shown previously. Switches for fog lights, hazards, and A/C. Got the proofs yesterday and they look good. Using only icons. I'll post some pics and more details when I get them.

[CaptGCCS]

Edwardb, that every one calls Paul... sir.. You seem to have the radiator that I do. When I fit it inplace, it looks like it would be a bear to get the a hose on when the end of the radiator dumps into the square tube by the sway bar. In my complete kit I have a flex SS HOSE it says to cut to length but I dont see where it can go... I realize your panels are gone and I read and looked at your mock up and that Coupe walk around but nothing touches on the fact that the radiator dumps the welded pipe down to the center of the engine compartment where there is frame in the way... the roadster was alot less painful...

[edwardb]

Edwardb, that every one calls Paul... sir.. You seem to have the radiator that I do. When I fit it inplace, it looks like it would be a bear to get the a hose on when the end of the radiator dumps into the square tube by the sway bar. In my complete kit I have a flex SS HOSE it says to cut to length but I dont see where it can go... I realize your panels are gone and I read and looked at your mock up and that Coupe walk around but nothing touches on the fact that the radiator dumps the welded pipe down to the center of the engine compartment where there is frame in the way... the roadster was alot less painful...

The kit provided SS flex radiator hose is for the top hose, not the bottom. A flexible rubber hose should have come with your kit intended for the bottom hose. The radiator provided in the kit is the same one as also now used in the Roadster. The angled bottom hose connection is a nice improvement for the Roadster compared to the previous version's straight connection. But makes things a little "interesting" for the Gen 3 Coupe. The available space to get the angled bottom hose through the frame is limited, to say the least. Further complicated if you have the front sway bar.

I'm not positive I have a solution because I haven't completely assembled everything yet. But I'm doing three things mentioned I think previously in the build thread: (1) Moved the radiator as far as possible to the driver's (left) side. Side note this also makes more room on the other side for the A/C condenser connections, if you're doing A/C. (2) Bent the upper tab on the driver's (left) side bottom radiator mount toward the outside which allows the radiator to go over the maximum amount (point #1). (3) I’ve purchased and am installing the cool tubes from Boig Motorsports rather than the upper and lower kit provided radiator hoses. The lower hose is specifically bent, and has a rubber connector, to work in this installation. I’m aware of a couple other builds that have used these parts and they were able to make the connection. Tight, but got it done. Bob Boig promised me he'd do whatever was necessary to make them work if I have any trouble.

As far as my screen name – Edward is my middle name, B the first initial of my last name. EdwardB has been my screen name on this and the other forum since I showed up here. Previously was my screen name for many years (more than I want to say…) when I was active on R/C forums, other websites, email, eBay, etc. So kind of my thing I guess. But Paul is my first name and I usually answer to that. Not a big secret.

[Bob Brandle]

Paul,
I continue to be fascinated and educated on your current Gen 3 Coupe build, after also reading thru your Roadster builds. Thank You so much!!
Last Saturday, I placed my order for a FFR Gen 3 Coupe and, if you don't mind, I intend to follow many of your equipment and technique choices and advisements. I'll of course add in some of my own custom touches and choices, but that's where the FFR kits and subsequent builds "allow" such owner creativity. I'll soon create my own Forum Build Log, under "Bob's Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build" where you'll see some of my relevant background and plans for my Gen 3 Coupe.
Bob

[edwardb]

Paul,
I continue to be fascinated and educated on your current Gen 3 Coupe build, after also reading thru your Roadster builds. Thank You so much!!
Last Saturday, I placed my order for a FFR Gen 3 Coupe and, if you don't mind, I intend to follow many of your equipment and technique choices and advisements. I'll of course add in some of my own custom touches and choices, but that's where the FFR kits and subsequent builds "allow" such owner creativity. I'll soon create my own Forum Build Log, under "Bob's Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build" where you'll see some of my relevant background and plans for my Gen 3 Coupe.
Bob

Awesome! Thanks. And congratulations on your kit order. Wrapping up attendance at the London Cobra Show this weekend and had a chance to study a couple completed Gen 3 Coupes in some detail. The early Factory Five prototype, which I've seen a couple times before, and Erik Treves' incredible build for the first time. I'm ready to get back home and work on mine, with some renewed enthusiasm. Bunch of people have asked whether it will be here next year. I'm not setting any deadlines. We'll see.

[edwardb]

It’s been a little while since the last update. 4+ days out of the schedule to attend the London Cobra Show. Pouring rain on Thursday, including flash flood warnings, and a not-too-great weather forecast for the following days seemed to affect the attendance. Haven’t seen any actual numbers. Friday had some spotty rain in the area, but nothing like predicted. We didn’t go on any of the cruises, but nothing was cancelled from what I understand. We hung around and visited friends and took a private cruise. Saturday, the big day, was sunny most of the time with just a couple of really minor sprinkles around midday. The parade into town was a blast as usual. I was asked to be in the Factory Five booth along with some other customers since Dave was there by himself with just one car. Everyone else was at Barrett-Jackson in Connecticut. It was different than previous London shows for me, but I enjoyed meeting and talking to lots of people. Was able to spend some time looking (again) at the Gen 3 Coupe Dave brought. Also checked out Erik Treves' awsome double turbo build. Good old #8674 is the lead picture in the show report Factory Five just posted. Another great time, and I’d encourage everyone to consider attending.

Back to the Coupe build… I’m still waiting for all my panels to be finished at the powder coater. Promised “maybe” for this week and “for sure” next week. I’m guessing it will be next week. Hope so anyway. Meanwhile, decided to start on body work. Following the same process I’ve used with the Roadster builds. I’ll get the body all cleaned up, mounted, everything fitting and gapped, then deliver for paint when it’s time. It’s dirty messy work so really prefer to do it outside on the driveway. First half of the day is cooler and in the shade, so have spent several mornings making dust. Nearly have the main part of the body done, then will work on the nose. Work so far has been to straighten all the edges, get the flanges around the firewall, windshield, doors and hatch straight and parallel. I knocked the top off the parting lines all around just to keep from hurting myself on them. I’ll leave the rest to the pros. In general, I’m pleased with the body so far. I did find a little clay in places in the parting lines, so dug that out. There’s a couple spots that need some HSRF repair, but nothing major at all. The areas around the side quarter windows will need the most work. Obviously I’ll learn a lot more when it’s time to start fitting everything to the chassis. Hope to finish this stage with a couple more morning sessions.



Before we left for London, I did start tearing into the wiring. First order of business was the Ron Francis main harness. With the fuse panel in place, started looking at what it was going to take to get everything routed the way I wanted. Didn’t take long and I had the wrapping off quite a bit of it. Removed the Hot Rod specific harness branch and a couple other unused wires. Then change the routing and angles so the front harness and brake pedals wires are properly oriented. With that progress, stopped and did a spreadsheet plan for all the circuits and how I’m planning to connect everything. Also mocked up the hoses for the HVAC connections so I could see what space I have to work with. It’s going to be tight, but I think it’s going to fit. But I’ve decided I’m not going to go any further until I have the Coyote harness. Somehow that all needs to fit and be integrated as well. So I’ve stopped for now. Snapped this pic. This is definitely the “before” picture with everything just stuffed in there. It will look a lot different when done.



This week I received the three custom switches for the switch panel. Talked about before. They’re rocker switches for the fog lights, hazards, and A/C on/off. They have laser etched icons, and LED indicators. I’ll have the LED’s under the icons on the dash lighting circuit. The other LED’s light when pushed on. The literature says they’re rated for 15 amps at 12 volts. But they’re marked 20 amps at 12 volts. Either way, will easily handle the three circuits without relays. These are from New Vintage USA, a local company here in SE Michigan. They have a lot of interesting products and from this small job do very nice work. Not cheap (there’s a common theme…) but I’m happy with them. I’ve now got the switch panel basically done. A few more details and it will get the same C-F style vinyl wrap as the gauge panel. In addition to the switches already mentioned are the temp and fan control for HVAC, wiper/washer switch, seat heater switches, and aux outlets on the ends. Note that this is integrating the FF supplied HVAC controls. So I won’t be using their panel.



I’ve also managed to get some updates about the Gen 3 Coyote crate. Looks like it’s going to happen! I have several sources, and not sure I should be posting too much. But seems the release and availability is maybe 1-2 months away. The part numbers for the engine and control pack (manual shift only) have been released along with the pricing. It is more than the Gen 2. Won’t know exactly how much since street price is less than retail. But pretty much what I expected. Could have been worse I guess. I’ve got feelers out to see if I can be first in line or on a waiting list when they’re released. We’ll see how that goes. But I’m now nearly positive this is going to work for my build and the timing is going to be OK. There are now multiple reviews of the Gen 3 (2018) Coyote out there, with impressive results. Pretty stoked about it.

Finally, all good builds have to have new and more tools, right? So here’s another. Pretty common these days to have torque-to-yield bolts with both torque and angle specifications for tightening. I’ve always determined the angles as best I could. But with more of these coming on the build, decided it was time to have an angle gauge. Looked at several options, and decided on this Brown Line Metalworks BLDAG001 unit. My digital torque wrench is from Brown Line, and I’ve been happy with the quality. This unit has magnets that attach to the handle of whatever wrench you’re using. Reads the angle, warns when you’re approaching the selected angle, etc. Just played with it so far. No actual real use. But certainly a big step up from my previous guesstimating.



That’s it for now.

[TXAggie]

I’ve also managed to get some updates about the Gen 3 Coyote crate. Looks like it’s going to happen! I have several sources, and not sure I should be posting too much. But seems the release and availability is maybe 1-2 months away. The part numbers for the engine and control pack (manual shift only) have been released along with the pricing. It is more than the Gen 2. Won’t know exactly how much since street price is less than retail. But pretty much what I expected. Could have been worse I guess. I’ve got feelers out to see if I can be first in line or on a waiting list when they’re released. We’ll see how that goes. But I’m now nearly positive this is going to work for my build and the timing is going to be OK. There are now multiple reviews of the Gen 3 (2018) Coyote out there, with impressive results. Pretty stoked about it.

Just looked at some reviews on the Gen 3 Coyote nice bump in hp and torque (460/420)... glad I looked through this thread while figuring out my build, should be perfect timing.

[JoeAIII]

Excellent news on your progress an the gen3!

[GoDadGo]

Sir EdwardB,

Can you share your impressions of this build, since you are so far down the road, compared to your last Roadster?
Also, have you had any major surprises that you had to get the gang at Factory Five to address?

Steve

[edwardb]

Sir EdwardB,

Can you share your impressions of this build, since you are so far down the road, compared to your last Roadster?
Also, have you had any major surprises that you had to get the gang at Factory Five to address?

Steve

Hey Steve. Impressions are all positive. There are enough similarities to the Roadster (suspension, steering, pedal box, fuel tank, wiring harness, drill and rivet) that my previous experience certainly applies. The fact that I did a Coyote before means I'm not too nervous about that part. The frame, panels, body, windshield, fuel/brake line routings, and assembly sequence are all different. But the assembly manual is pretty decent plus helps seeing other build threads and completed cars in person several times. I'm learning about heat and A/C for the first time. But the instructions for that are really thorough. Other than follow-up on backordered parts, I haven't had any surprises or things to address with Factory Five. I had a wiring clarification about the A/C which they quickly answered. They sent a box of updated aluminum panels, which I mentioned in the build thread. Awesome customer service. So, all good!

[edwardb]

Today I received word my powder coated panels were done and picked them up. All 50 pieces. Turned out nice. I'm real happy with the color. They call it IG 90 Satin Glimmer. Don't know the brand. But it's a close match to the frame on the #8674 Anniversary Roadster, and used it some on that build as well. I think it's a nice compliment to the gloss black frame on the Coupe. My experience is that it's easy to keep clean and the satin doesn't show scratches. This isn't much of a picture, but was setting most of them in place as I was making sure I had everything. I did.



Going to wrap up what I'm working on with electrical and then switch over to panel insulation and installation. Still undecided how I'm going to do the heat and sound insulation. I really want to use Lizard Skin like I've done before. But with several panels that don't go on until after the body is on, plus all the various frame pieces and angles in the footboxes, not sure. Would be a real pain to mask and spray. Thinking of masking the footbox pieces loose, spraying, and then installing. That might be much easier and work just as well. Or maybe switch to a stick on product for the footwells and spray Lizard Skin on the rest. Have to think about this some more.

[shark92651]

Or maybe switch to a stick on product for the footwells and spray Lizard Skin on the rest. Have to think about this some more.

This is what I am going to do for the DS footbox and under my trans tunnel top on my build and spray the rest with Lizard Skin. I bought the Thermo-tec product at Summit for the stick on. I actually found the best price for the Lizard Skin on Amazon, although I did not spend a lot of time searching.