Looking sharp! Your just a little bit ahead of me, which makes me feel good. You got this wiring thing!!
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Looking sharp! Your just a little bit ahead of me, which makes me feel good. You got this wiring thing!!
The wiring harness has been quite the undertaking. Dieting was slow to start but once I got an understanding of how everything was linked together it went much quicker in the end. I ended up taking about 20 lbs out of the harness and that was just for stuff I knew I did not need. I am now in the process of trying to fit and mount the fuse boxes and ECU to then get the wiring routed as cleanly as possible. What I find most frustrating is not knowing exactly where mounting something may or may not be an issue later on as the build progresses while also trying to ensure that the fuse boxes are placed in an accessible location in case there are issues later down the road.
Once I finish up with this harness I hope to start the final prep work (fluids and brakes) to attempt an engine start by mid summer.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/P7Hq05P3IkSonqJC2
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
Finally finished up the wiring harness and am crossing my fingers that a ton of troubleshooting won't be needed.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dBKmMIGBfhOhfmKh1
I installed the seats and harness bar last weekend. I found that there was plenty of room for the drivers seat using the FFR gas tank. What I struggled with was getting the passenger seat to fit correctly. Since I went with aftermarket seats I had to also purchase a couple of seat brackets that I modified in order to get everything to fit correctly. I modified the provided FFR seat brackets as well to raise the passenger seat up a few inches in order to get it to fit.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kcSjyEV4TwK6kh1t8
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
Think you just sold about 10 iwire harnesses.
are these the NRG reclining seats on ebay?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
I have to same seats. They are pretty nice for the money.
Where did you purchase the brackets?
I have to same seats. They are pretty nice for the money.
Where did you purchase the brackets?
I strongly considered the iwire harness and would advise anyone not comfortable or not wanting to deal with wiring to look into it as well. For me, it was more for the learning process. Yes it was a pain but taking the harness apart and following where all the connections went and how everything works as compared to the wiring schematic was a very valuable experience.
The seats are made by Cipher and yes they are reclining.
I got the brackets off of amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Imprez...+Racing+Bucket
Last edited by LearningCurve; 06-27-2018 at 03:12 PM.
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
[QUOTE=LearningCurve;330282]I strongly considered the iwire harness and would advise anyone not comfortable or not wanting to deal with wiring to look into it as well. For me, it was more for the learning process. Yes it was a pain but taking the harness apart and following where all the connections went and how everything works as compared to the wiring schematic was a very valuable experience.
I knew NOTHING about car wiring and saw the harness as a challenge. I printed K3LAG's approach to wiring and the wiring diagram for my donor; put it all in a binder and went after it. I learned a ton and have a pretty complete understanding of how it all works after going through it.
I am currently trying to figure out my seat installation and will look into these brackets to see if they will help. I have the NRG seats - they seem pretty well made and comfortable for the price and I'm a Wookie (6'2" | 230lbs).
220,221 whatever it takes....
I started working on the shifter over the last few weeks and as should come to no surprise to most, the FFR shifter setup is less that optimal. I am attempting to use the aluminium FFR shifter with the long cables on a 5 speed. Shifting into 3rd and 4th is possible but it does not go very smoothly. Shifting into 5th or Reverse is impossible from the shifter. From the back of transmission shifting through the gears is not a problem. At this point I don't think I have any other choice but to consider the MR2 option or Wayne's option. Very disappointed with the FFR setup.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7cYXZNMftc8VKsuZA
Leaning towards the MR2 option right now. Anybody have or know someone who may have a MR2 shifter for sale?
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
You can turn the FFR aluminum shifter around if you want.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post270236
MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A
Join the mr2 for sale Facebook page lots of part outs. Other option is http://mr2enthusiast.com or https://www.rat2motorsports.com/collections. Those to 2 companies part out mr2s often as well. Not many people need shifters other then 818 folks so you will probably just need to email them asking if they have the part since it probably won't be listed. 85-92 shifters are longer throw 93+ cost more and are shorter.
For the position my shifter is at in my 818 I used a 85-92 shifter. 93s are nice and are my favoret if you drive an mr2. Just require more hight in the 818 for well.
Last edited by redfogo; 07-10-2018 at 11:47 PM.
Just for future comparison sake.....
www.mr2oc.com - No response from my request for a shifter.
Ebay - JDM 91-99 TOYOTA MR2 MR-2 TURBO SHIFTER BOX - $159.99
rat2motorsports - Got a response within 24 hours and they wanted $85 for a 85-89 AW11.
MR2enthusiast - Got a response within 12 hours and scored a shifter for $30 plus shipping.
Custom Cables - 100-4222-0084 - $91 each + shipping
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
Check out Wayne’s shifters too.. really nice. I have his 6 speed
http://www.verycoolparts.com/shifter.htm
I did consider Wayne's shifter as it does look very nice but as always, I am trying to keep cost in check. As it stands now I am in for just around $100 for the MR2 shifter, which will include replacing all of the bushings and a few other parts. Even with the shorter cables that still only comes out to around $300.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8RYi43DHSfEa3g7T7
Parts number for those interested:
Large Bushing at end of shifter - 33556-17010
Small Bushing at end of shifter - 33548-12040
Spring - 90508-22001
Mounting plate bushings - 90389-08031
Aluminum Sleeve for mounting plate bushing - 90389-10016
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
This weekend I finished installing the MR2 shifter with shorter cables and the bell crank from Zero Decibel. I am really happy with the way it turned out. It is not going to be nearly as pretty looking as the billet aluminum shifter but it is way more functional and has lots of room for adjustments. I did recess the shifter fairly low in the center tunnel because I wanted to keep the shifter with a low profile. Right now it is not interfering with anything but if it becomes an issue I can remove one of the spacers at each corner and bring it up an inch.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XYt5nrc5gbyYRQKv6
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
FIRST START!!!
I finished up bleeding the brakes and topping off all of the fluids. At this point I have put in about almost 4 gallons of coolant. I put in about 2 gallons of gas and filled her up with non synthetic 5W-40. I went through the oil priming procedure by disconnecting the fuel pump and the connectors for the spark plugs and injectors. I engaged the starter and within a few seconds the oil pressure light went off. I did that for a few times just to ensure good circulation. After reconnecting the fuel pump and ignition, I cycled the fuel pump a few times to try and prime the fuel inline. I then pushed it out of the garage just to be on the safe side of starting my house on fire. After that the video speaks for itself. Fired up almost immediately. I was shocked. I drove it around the block shortly after.
Now for the disconcerting news. After my drive around the block I noticed that during idle and any amount of throttle, I am getting lots of smoke. Even after letting it come up to temp in the driveway I am noticing it get much rougher at idle and at times won't stay running. I am guessing there is quite a bit of oil burning and possibly getting on the spark plugs. I can even start to see drips of oil being flung out the back of the turbo. I know this could be any number of things but I am looking for advice on how concerned I should be about this right now.
This is a new 2.5 shortblock with JE hybrid pistons and rebuilt 2.0 heads. The turbo was also rebuilt. Is it possible that I just need to get the rings to seat or is this amount of oil burning excessive for even that to be the case?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/n7cMqVyCuPyD2Rm26
Last edited by LearningCurve; 08-27-2018 at 11:37 AM.
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
That's an excessive amount of smoke. My guess is not unseated rings. Start with the simple things first. Is there oil in the intake manifold?
So right now I am feeling less than optimistic about this. I am not entirely convinced it is oil that is burning. The smoke appears more white than blue and the residual coming out of the end of the turbo is not as oily as I would think it should be if it were oil. It is very burnt whatever it is so it is hard for me to tell if it is coolant or not. I did a compression test on a cold motor and all 4 cylinders were between 152 and 160. All 4 spark plugs have the same coating of burnt liquid on them. I removed the intercooler to throttle body connection to see if I could see any oil or coolant in the intake manifold and it is all very clean and dry. No signs of anything leaking from the turbo into the manifold.
I am open to any additional suggestions.
Last edited by LearningCurve; 09-03-2018 at 11:04 AM.
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
How old is the turbo?
Not exactly sure. I purchased it rebuilt from Busted Finger Motorsports. The exterior of the turbo looks really good. I can only assume it was rebuilt correctly. Since I don't see oil or coolant in the intercooler, throttle body, or intake, I am guessing it is not the turbo.
Here are few photos of the turbo as it was being installed and from today after I ran the car for a few minutes.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/AfAr3sGWku4zLAQw6
https://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/index.html
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
Since your intercooler and intake are clean and dry it does not sound like its your turbo. Unfortunately it sounds like something in the heads. I know you did a compression test but you should do a leak down test to see if there is a crack or something allowing coolant into the combustion chamber.
Where the plugs coated in both cylinder banks or just one side?
MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A
Did you use the head gasket for an EJ20 or EJ25? I'm running the same setup as you and didn't have this issue (EJ257 block with JE hybrid pistons, EJ205 heads). You should be using the EJ25 head gaskets. Did you have the heads resurfaced before you installed them or check their flatness? Any other work done to them?
By the way, congrats on the first start - even though you're still working out the kinks, that's a big milestone in itself!
EDIT: I looked back at your earlier posts and saw you're running the correct head gasket and had the heads re-decked at Andrewtech. Everything looks like it was done right, still scratching my head. Is there a chance you missed some kind of coolant o-ring? When you got the heads back, did you verify their flatness with a straight edge?
Last edited by STiPWRD; 09-04-2018 at 08:30 AM.
Thanks for giving this a thought. I have been going over the engine build photos I took trying to think of what might went wrong and I can't think of anything. If I did miss a coolant o-ring, I am not sure where that might have been. I don't recall putting any o-rings in when I bolted the heads to the short block and all coolant paths outside the engine appear to be holding up. Since the short block was brand new, I didn't do anything to it besides swap out the pistons. As for the heads, they were professionally cleaned and decked. I don't recall personally checking them with a straight edge but from the photos you can see the mating surface looks very clean. The one thing I didn't do when rebuilding the heads was oil the valve stem seals when installing them. Assuming I am burning oil and not coolant, I don't think that would be causing this issue.
Head Rebuild:
https://goo.gl/photos/4jbtGCtmVfJ4QGFm6
Piston Swap:
https://goo.gl/photos/sZJVYNwXddCsuhHL8
Head Install:
https://goo.gl/photos/QpC8ApXTMoXsrX6y6
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
Do you recall what you gapped the piston rings to? I can't remember where I got these numbers (maybe JE) but I used:
compression ring 17-18 mils gap
oil control ring 20-22 mils gap
Your compression numbers look good though.
Also, does the smoke start immediately or after a few minutes? A few more thoughts on the turbo - is there a chance coolant is leaking into it? You could try plugging the turbo coolant lines (or just bypassing the turbo) to see if this stops the smoke. Also, there's a restrictor hole on the oil fitting going into the turbo, if this hole was drilled out to a larger size, it could be pumping too much oil into the turbo. Is there any chance the oil drain line going back to the pan is clogged?
Sounds like you already bought a leak down tester but I remember someone recommending this one: UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester
Those numbers look right. I followed JE's spec as closely as I could. Yes, compression is good so I don't think it is a ring issue but I am not sure if this could be an issue with then not being seated yet.
https://www.jepistons.com/PDFs/TechC...instrc4032.pdf
After having not messed with the car for a week and cleaning the spark plugs before start-up, the smoke took a minute before it was noticeable and the engine ran fairly smooth. After a few minutes, the smoke got much more noticeable and the engine again started to run very rough. After shutting the engine down for a few minutes and starting it back up the smoke was immediate.
Back to the turbo. Correct me if am wrong, but if coolant or oil were leaking from the turbo, wouldn't I see this in the throttle body and intake manifold? Even if the liquid were just dripping back down the up-pipe, it may be creating smoke as it gets burned off but I don't see how it would be making it into the chamber and getting on the plugs. If the leak tester does not show anything conclusive I think the next step would be to pull the turbo off for a closer inspection.
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
I was thinking that the coolant/oil could be leaking into the turbine side of the turbo and then getting vaporized by the exhaust. It would be pretty tough for anything to drip into the up-pipe since all of the exhaust pressure would be pushing the opposite direction.
Also, how are your fuel trims? Any chance you upgraded the injectors and are running on the rich side? This can cause soot to build up on the plugs. I know it's a long shot...
spark plugs.jpg
I did upgrade injectors. Deatschwerks 565 or 650. Can't recall off the top of head exactly which but it was nothing crazy. The thought that maybe I was running too rich had crossed my mind. I am not sure that explains all of the symptoms though.
Here are a couple of photos of the liquid getting shot out the turbo.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/J2TSwxRjJsnjyopC8
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
It looks like there's a crack in the turbine housing wastegate area at about the 11 o'clock mark. Not sure what's directly behind it (coolant or oil) but that could explain the smoke.
If you upgraded injectors and did not reflash the ECU to account for that then you will definitely be running rich and getting some black spark plugs. Stock injectors are specified in the ECU at 420cc and then the ECU makes small adjustments to the real flow rate through fuel trims. 565 or 650 would be a big difference over stock.
MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
How’s the air oil separator plumbed and oil level possibly pumping oil to the AOS if too full. Pull off and Look into any vacuum line going into the intake manifold as Bob says, introducing oil into the intake.
If all those hoses are clean going into the intake, the issue would most likely be something in the head,since compression is in line. Funny thing is all cylinders plugs are showing signs
Open the oil fill cap while running, be careful. My engine would suck/blow at the oil filler cap as engine running. But no oil came out just puffs of air.
Rich condition would be black smoke but no oily smoot out of the turbo. I believe the engine would flood out before you saw the juice out the exhaust. It would run rough until it stalls.
What does the smoke smell like? Sweet will be coolant. If it smells like a old lawn mower or mini bike it’s oil.
If you. Do a cooling system pressure test does it hold pressure? If not coolants entering combustion chamber. Hope fully some thing here helps you out!
Last edited by DMC7492; 09-05-2018 at 08:28 PM.
Just another thought. Did somebody forget the valve seals?
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
I inadvertently tested this out by installing 820cc injectors and not properly adjusting the ECU to compensate. The engine ran super rich and idle was rough but did not stall, it even drove. I didn't have any smoke whatsoever but when I removed my spark plugs, they were covered in black carbon build-up. I eventually adjusted injector size in the ECU and the engine ran much better.
Valve seals were installed. You can see them in a few of the photos in the link below.
Head Rebuild:
https://goo.gl/photos/4jbtGCtmVfJ4QGFm6
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
Any further updates on this ?