Is there anyone here who has done the battery box from FFmetal.com? It looks clean, but I'm envisioning REMOVING the battery to replace after the body is on, and wondering how much of a pain in the *** that might be.
Looking for other options / experience from others.
Last edited by Higgybulin; 09-16-2018 at 05:50 AM.
MK4 #11012 picked up 04/16/24
351W, 3 link, single roll bar
MK4 #10616 picked up 4/10/23
302w, 4 link, 17's, dual roll bar SOLD
MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars SOLD
I used the forward mount from breeze and am very happy with it, highly recommended. Moves the weight to a better spot and easy to access. Much easier to disconnect negative for working on the car too.
I know many of the pro builders on here use it on ever build.
I am still in the build process, but did install the rear battery box. I am thinking a battery swap will be a test of strength and caution. I have the drop trunk box, so no place to put your knees in reaching the battery, which will have to be raised under the arched 3/4" hoop, avoiding hitting the terminals against the metal. With arms fully extended you will need to lift the battery, just clear of the box and draw toward yourself. I have not practiced the procedure, just tried to think it out, before it is needed.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
Another vote for the Breeze front mount, shorted cable runs, easier to get to, works great.
John
FFR #7388 - Mk 4 Complete Kit w/ IRS, Ordered 10/21/10, Delivered 12/8/10. 302 with FiTech and Under Car Exhaust, Heat & A/C, Rod Top. Hard top and shop built side curtains added 2023.
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
I used the trunk drop battery box. It is not easy to remove the battery with the body on but it is not a big deal. Not something I plan on doing very often. I like it. Extra room in the trunk and a clean engine compartment. Just a matter of personal preference.
-Steve
These cars need the weight in the rear if you plan on doing any performance driving.
Ease of access is a once in maybe 7 year concern. 20,000 miles and I have never touched my battery. I have, however, wished for more traction in the rear.
To safe the battery for removal from a trunk well, would be fairly easy to 3D print terminal caps with (plastic or nylon) set screws.
Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.
Have a red top battery in a CNC bottom mounting plate in the trunk. Very easy to remove or hook charger leads too.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 09-17-2018 at 07:58 PM.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
That wouldn't be nearly as much fun, would it? I've arced through blue tape on impact, but several layers should do the trick.
Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.
That wouldn't be nearly as much fun, would it? I've arced through blue tape on impact, but several layers should do the trick.
How about electrical tape? Hence the name, blue tape is masking tape. Not exactly made for insulation. Or save the plastic caps that come on the battery when you buy it?
Need help finishing your project we can help here or at your shop.
FFR GTM #34 first GTM with working AC. 400 hp LS1 w/G50
FFR coupe 3617CP 331 Stack EFI T-5 IRS Cobra brakes, AC/heat.
Both cars by NRC, we can build (and have built) any FFR product.
We also make and sell a ton of great parts for the FFR community.
Brake kits, AC systems, #1 supplier of Team III wheels.
The battery in the trunk is the ideal place for me, a battery just doesn't look right under the hood. Use the red optima battery with the side terminals in the trunk installed as the build instructions mention and upgrade from the FFR 4 gauge wire to a 0 gauge wire. I don't see any reason to have constant access to the battery... if you need a trickle charger a permanent trunk mount would be ideal.
My plan for my MK IV Challenge Car build with 2015 IRS is to put a Braille B3121 below the upper trunk level, behind and to the passenger side of the diff center. From my evaluation a dedicated box and battery just fits. It should lift straight up even with the additional cross bar for the Challenge Car. I would like the weight lower but the 21# Braille would be only about 10-12" above the axles. From this location the battery cable is about 8' long.
I used the battery box from FFmetal.com I was very impressed at how easy it was to install and the fit up and look were great!! I wanted the weight in the rear for performance driving.
Ed.
FFR 7570, 402sr ROUSH 455HP, TKO 5 speed, Wilwood brakes, IRS 327gears Torsen Diff, Forte's Hydraulic Clutch, 15to1 AGR Power steering rack and lots more it never seems to end?
TEMPTATION: because willpower is no match for Horsepower!
I used the battery box from FFmetal.com I was very impressed at how easy it was to install and the fit up and look were great!! I wanted the weight in the rear for performance driving.
Ed.
In my post, I listed my concerns, but am pleased with the product. I have the FFM box mounted up and look forward to having the battery in the rear and not taking up space, otherwise. The box is very well designed and made. I am lugging up my cable ends and wiring in the cut off switch, presently.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
14 years ago, I bought everything that FFmetal (Linwood) had; firewall forward, larger footboxes, F-panel without a hole, radiator shroud, and the battery box. Now I are FFmetal! I've only had to get to my battery twice in 14 years. The key is using remote battery terminals and a cutoff switch. Hint, leave the battery handle on, makes it easier to pull it out of the box.
I just wasn't a big fan of the rear battery myself. So...
Some steel, a neighbors welder, bit of paint, thread tap and some large body-bolts from TSC. Made my own front battery box for pennies.
Well, I went with both. I have the Breeze front battery mount for the battery and also purchased the FF Metals drop box for the truck since they are so small. I hate to have the wasted space under the top shelf of the trunk. I have the Moser 3 link so no issue with the IRS cross member. I'm using the FF Metals drop box as my tool/extra parts storage compartment in my trunk. Got a flocking kit from Flockit.com and the FF Metals box looks beautiful.
A bit pricey but I think worth the extra storage space in the trunk.
Steve
2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print EFI 306 with AOD trans, and under car exhaust. Ford Eruption Green with saddle leather interior.
1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.
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Originally Posted by initiator
