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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Redbone Has Graduated / The Official Dark Side Build Thead
The Redbone Roadster
What Redbone Means:
The word REDBONE is a Cajun term for a person of mixed-race, which the REDBONE BAND adopted to signify their mixed ancestry...The combined ethnic groups include Native American, African and European so these people are unique because they are the culmination of many cultures...Since my car is also made up of mixed origins, Truly A Louisiana Gumbo, it is only fitting that it be given this name since it is neither Ford nor Chevy nor Shelby, but something totally different and unique.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redbone_(ethnicity)
Last Go-Kart Drive Before Block Debacle:
https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA
New Engine Block Arrives:
https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk
Friends Help Pull The Leaky Block:
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k
New Mill Gets Installed:
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8
What The Car Looked Like As A Red Gel Coat Driver:
https://youtu.be/CaRlqMmKIzk
Our Final Build Thread Video:
https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA
Here Are The Specs For Our Build:
1. 383 Small Block Chevy (Dart SHP Block) 10-1 Somewhat Pump Gas Friendly Compression Ratio!
2. Eagle Internally Balanced Rotating Assembly With 6" H-Beam Rods With Floating Forged Flat Tops.
3. Dart Iron Eagle 215 CC Heads with 2.05 Intake & 1.60 Exhaust Valves.
4. Harland Sharp Roller Rockers & Other Go Fast Goodies.
5. Comp Cam Extreme Energy 288 Hydraulic Roller Tappet Cam
6. Edelbrock AVS 800 Feeding A Weiand 7530 Team-G Single Plane Manifold.
7. Schoenfeld IMCA Modified Headers & They Really, Really Fit, But Stuff Had To Move A Bit!
8. New Old Stock Corvette ZF 6-Speed Transmission With Hydraulic Clutch. (.75 5th & .50 6th Gear Over Drives)
9. Standard Front End Set Up With Mustang Brakes & Forte’s .75” Sway Bar.
10. Standard 3 Link Moser TSD 500 Rear (Dana 44) With 3.73 Gears & Explorer Brakes.
11. The wheelbase has been shortened by .875" to better center the rear wheels within the wheel arches and improve pinion angle adjustment.
REDBONE / The Band:
The Vasquez-Vegas brothers were of Yaqui, Shoshone, and Mexican heritage...They began by performing and recording surf music as the Vegas Brothers, later as the Crazy Cajun Cakewalk Band, where they performed throughout the 1960s at venues on the Las Vegas Strip...In addition, the band often alluded to Cajun and New Orleans culture in their lyrics and performing style.
https://youtu.be/OnJqFrVD3uE
https://youtu.be/7jUii4gFGZQ
https://youtu.be/kECS4CeitQw
https://youtu.be/yaC_kX_kWs4
Last edited by GoDadGo; 01-23-2021 at 08:46 AM.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 5 Likes
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Steve,
I think you put it in backwards. The distributor should be in the front. Oh yeah, it's a Chebby. Congrats, Steve! It's good to see you back on track.
Dave
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Good Show! Glad it's running after the delays.
Jim
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All I can say is GO DAD GO.
MK4 delivered 2/24/2017. Complete kit #9023,IRS, Power Steering, Leather, heater, 17" wheels, sway bar ft & rr, tremec 600 and Gordon Levy Racing SBF 427. First start and go kart 8/19/2017. Graduated 1/15/2018
MK4 #9230 complete kit delivered 1/27/2018. IRS, PS, leather, Tremic 600, SBF 427. Graduation 10/15/2018
MK3 #5253 donor bought unfinished. SBF 331, T5 Trans.
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Seasoned Citizen
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Nice work getting her back in the road!!
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
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Senior Member
Congratulations she sounds great and it’s good to see you making progress again
Rick
#8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater
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Senior Member
Welcome back, Steve. Good to see things moving forward (except the distributor, that is!).
-Karl
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MKIV Roadster #8641
Complete Kit with IRS, Eaton Detroit Truetrac, 3.55 gears, Wilwood Brakes
Ford Racing Z427 w/ Pro-M Sequential Port EFI System
TKO 600 + McLeod Midshifter; Fast Freddie's Electro-Hydraulic power steering
Miller Customs Bodywork & Paint
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Senior Member
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Gentlemen,
It is great to be back & great to once again be a Full Fledged, Wrench Swinging member of this forum.
Steve
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PLATNUM Supporting Member
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Senior Member
CVOBill
MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater
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On a roll
Yippee! Good for you, Steve!
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount
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Senior Member
Awesome Steve, glad to have you back in the wrench turning game!
Chris
Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.
MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.
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After all you've been through, its good to see this accomplished and you and everyone else smiling. Congrats...
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Thanks For All The Well Wishes & Support!
Our goal is to get it on the road and legal in the Red Gel Coat so that we can do a proper shake down before painting the sucker.
Since we had such a long delay with life issues, I just want to Drive This Thing a while before I have to pull it apart for paint.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-30-2018 at 01:29 AM.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Good luck getting it wrapped up!
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Ok Gang,
I've had the chance to drive my car around the neighborhood (Rural Roads Only) and had the joy of taking more than a few of my neighbors for rides.
The car drives very well and the block change allowed me to upgrade the camshaft to an OEM style hydraulic roller setup.
The drivability is greatly improved and I can now run it at 1,600-1,700 RPMs without any stumbling or lurching.
Those RPM numbers are important because I needed to hit 1,700 RPM in order to do 70 MPH in 6th.
Steve
New Camshaft Horse Power Specs Based On A Smaller Headed, Lower Compression, Similar Intake, 356 Cubic Inch Small Block Chevy Are Shown Below:
http://www.compcams.com/v002/pages/398/xr288hr-10.aspx
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-04-2018 at 06:43 PM.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
I've logged about 25-30 miles so far on the new block so I have one question for you all:
How many miles have you guys put on your Go-Karts before you decide that it is time for paint?
- My pal and Build Guru (Darrell-Darrell) is itching to paint the car for me at the exorbitant prices of One Dollar.
- We've only been friends for 30 years so the car will be in very good hands.
- This is the fellow who set the engine and transmission and fabbed/modified my headers plus he builds street-rods from scratch. (Scratch = NAZ Style)
What-Cha-Think?
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-25-2018 at 10:24 AM.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
2-3000 miles, I always put at least a year in gelcoat
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Seasoned Citizen
For me I knew I had to get the paint done BEFORE I drove the car or it would be a long long time before I pulled the body again. As it is, I couldn't wait for the graphics and took the car thinking I'd get the graphics painted on after a couple weeks. That was almost four months ago and still too busy sorting out the car to give it back to the painter.
So if you're like me you better get the paint done first before you license the car and start driving it.
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Hi steve! For me it was all ways get legal then drive the car to see if and where the problems would show up. Have done a lot of body work so it is mostly in primer, put on 1700 miles and decided to change some things (twin turbos - water to air coolers & heat exchanger - fuel system) that makes for more body work!! So if you think of any changes or problem areas = wait to paint, if all good to go then paint and be done!
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Senior Member
Paint
Originally Posted by
GoDadGo
I've logged about 25-30 miles so far on the new block so I have one question for you all:
How many miles have you guys put on your Go-Karts before you decide that it is time for paint?
- My pal and Build Guru (Darrell-Darrell) is itching to paint the car for me at the exorbitant prices of One Dollar.
- We've only been friends for 30 years so the car will be in very good hands.
- This is the fellow who set the engine and transmission and fabbed/modified my headers plus he builds street-rods from scratch. (Scratch = NAZ Style)
What-Cha-Think?
Steve, i got mine driving in gel coat in september drove it till Thanksgiving, took it apart and to paint first of January, where you live maybe drive till starts gettiny to hot next summer.
Walt
FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.
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Senior Member
Hey Steve,
Mark Dougherty gave me some very sound advice early on in my build. Drive it in gel-coat for 1 year before thinking about paint. I am very glad I took his advice. I've added/changed things that would be difficult on a painted car and with my driveline issues, I am very glad the car is still in gel-coat.
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Not a waxer
I don't think there is a right answer. I've done them with zero miles, >4,000 miles and everything in between. More often than not the ones with more miles were simply because my schedule wouldn't allow me to take the car earlier.
NOTE TO BUILDERS: Don't wait until you are "just about ready for paint" to start making your body & paint plans because you're liable to be disappointed when you learn that guys like me, Miller, Pike and Whitby aren't sitting around waiting for the phone to ring wondering when the next car is going to come along. Just sayin'...
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 11-26-2018 at 06:24 AM.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
NOTE TO BUILDERS:
Don't wait until you are "just about ready for paint" to start making your body & paint plans because you're liable to be disappointed when you learn that guys like me, Miller, Pike and Whitby aren't sitting around waiting for the phone to ring wondering when the next car is going to come along. Just sayin'...
Jeff
Excellent Point Sir Jeff-Ski,
Darrell-Darrell is working on his son's Jeep Rock Crawler right now and will have a clear bay in his shop in late March or early April.
I need to be ready to go when the Jeep goes home to his Baby Boy's place and that bay is open for painting purposes.
Beggars Can't Be Choosers Especially When Your Hot Rodding Pal Offers To Paint The Sucker For You!
Steve
NOTE: ..I wouldn't have even thought about building this car if he wasn't willing to set the drive-line for me.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-26-2018 at 09:26 AM.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
I logged 10 more miles this weekend and so far so good; however, I'm still paranoid after having to replace the block.
The car performs well and is plenty quick even with the rev limiter sitting at a conservative 4,000 R.P.M. limit.
I've played with the Edelbrock AVS 800 and it is no longer burping or popping under initial acceleration.
Though most folks don't like these carburetor, I'm finding it is working very well for my application.
We will be fitting the windshield next weekend and hopefully, it will be a fairly easy task.
I hope it will be easier than most since I moved the fuse block the passenger side.
I guess it is what you do when you become one with The Dark Side!
Fuse Block Link:...https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/albu...chmentid=51762
Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-03-2018 at 11:23 AM.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
With some excellent advice from Jeff Kleiner and the steady hands of my wife (Davey) we fitted the windshield.
It is sitting in place with a couple of spacers on each side and one motorcycle tie down to nail it at the 27" sidearm to door opening space.
Now all I need to do is mark, drill, tap, shim, and bolt it in place in order to properly mount that sucker.
Please know that I'm still debating on the "Sir EdwardB" tap it option.
Thanks Jeff & Davey!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-02-2019 at 11:23 PM.
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Senior Member
Don't debate; just tap it! Makes things sooooooo much easier.
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
phileas_fogg
Don't debate; just tap it! Makes things sooooooo much easier.
John
Yup. Just do it. You'll have that bad boy on and off multiple times, and each time you'll be thankful. And for the record, can't take credit for it. Saw it in another build thread.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
GoDadGo
With some excellent advice from Jeff Kleiner and the steady hands of my wife, we fitted the windshield.
It is sitting in place with a couple of spacers on each side and one motorcycle tie down to nail it at the 27" sidearm to door opening space.
Now all I need to do is mark, drill, tap, shim, and bolt it in place in order to properly mount that sucker.
Please know that I'm still debating on the "Sir EdwardB" tap it option.Thanks Jeff & Davey!
Probably best if you just crack the windshield now, and save the disappointment later..
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Hey Gents,
Where do you all like the windscreen center to be sitting/mounted to avoid AC Bill's cracking scenario?
A. Touching/Sitting On The Body.
B. 1/8" Above The Body.
C. 1/4" Above The Body.
D. 3/8" Above The Body.
Please vote early and feel free to vote often if you have done multiple builds.
Thanks,
Steve
Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-09-2018 at 06:40 PM.
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Not a waxer
It's not about where the center is. For about the hundredth time...if you don't want the windshield to crack DON"T TRY TO BEND IT! By that I mean that it has to remain completely relaxed when it is attached to the chassis and to accomplish this you must adjust &/or shim the "arms" so that when the bolts between them and the chassis are tightened no pressure is introduced to the glass. If you have a gap between the arms and chassis then pull them up tight you're going to be putting pressure on the glass (i.e. trying to bend it ) and it will eventually crack. Funny story, when building the SEMA coupe Ron, Henry and I were talking about this subject and how important it is...almost 75 roadsters built between us and exactly zero cracked windshields. But maybe we're just lucky.
Oh, and yeah, tap it!
Jeff
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David aka Ducky2009
Originally Posted by
GoDadGo
I've logged about 25-30 miles so far on the new block so I have one question for you all:
How many miles have you guys put on your Go-Karts before you decide that it is time for paint?
- My pal and Build Guru (Darrell-Darrell) is itching to paint the car for me at the exorbitant prices of One Dollar.
- We've only been friends for 30 years so the car will be in very good hands.
- This is the fellow who set the engine and transmission and fabbed/modified my headers plus he builds street-rods from scratch. (Scratch = NAZ Style)
What-Cha-Think?
Sounds great Steve!
I drove with the body in Gelcoat for about 500 miles. I did find several things I wanted to modify after driving for a while. Modified DS footbox - gas pedal side, added power brakes, dash center panel support. Give yourself plenty of time to analyze everything... make sure you're happy.
Last edited by Ducky2009; 12-09-2018 at 08:00 PM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
It's not about where the center is. For about the hundredth time...if you don't want the windshield to crack DON"T TRY TO BEND IT! By that I mean that it has to remain completely relaxed when it is attached to the chassis and to accomplish this you must adjust &/or shim the "arms" so that when the bolts between them and the chassis are tightened no pressure is introduced to the glass. If you have a gap between the arms and chassis then pull them up tight you're going to be putting pressure on the glass (i.e. trying to bend it
) and it will eventually crack. Funny story, when building the SEMA coupe Ron, Henry and I were talking about this subject and how important it is...almost 75 roadsters built between us and exactly zero cracked windshields. But maybe we're just lucky.
Oh, and yeah, tap it!
Jeff
Well Jeff here's my story, My white car which was sold to Mark, had well over 20,000 mile, no cracked windshield. When I mounted that windshield I didn't use any shims, just cranked the bolts down tight. My current car, which has less that 3000, had the windshield shimmed tight, walked into the garage one morning, and there was the crack. SO, damned if you do, damned if you don't.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Originally Posted by
Ducky2009
Sounds great Steve!
I drove with the body in Gelcoat for about 500 miles. I did find several things I wanted to modify after driving for a while. Modified DS footbox - gas pedal side, added power brakes, dash center panel support. Give yourself plenty of time to analyze everything... make sure you're happy.
Thanks Ducky,
Prior to pulling the engine last year, we logged about 35-45 miles.
Since we did the motor R & R, I rerouted my fuel line from the pump to the carb, moved alternator feed wire and added a rev-limiter.
My next mod will be a change to the radiator fan wiring so that I can kick it on with a manual switch.
So far I've logged about 50-75 miles on the new block and worked on getting it properly tuned.
I just want to be done with the testing and done with the car as soon as possible.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-09-2018 at 09:05 PM.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Installed hood plus the door latches recently.
Logged 5 more miles this afternoon and so far so good.
I bumped rev limiter up to 4,200 R.P.M from 4,000 R.P.M. limit.
Hope to get after the hood and trunk latches if time permits tomorrow afternoon.
Progress is slow because we are helping our oldest daughter and our son in law get their home ready for sale.
Mrs. Go-Dad and I love the way the car looks without the hood scoop and are stuck on Dodge Challenger TorRed for the paint.
Here is the car looks like, minus the hood in the most recent video:
https://youtu.be/wOID7yvBRPU
Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-03-2019 at 08:41 AM.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Not much progress on the home front because I'm not there very often; however, the hood latches are on the car as of this evening.
Measured, Measured & Measured Once More Before Drilling Holes In My Hood Earlier This Evening!
Tomorrow I'm going to help a new F-5 family member with a few things that just go a little easier with an extra pair of hands to hold stuff.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-09-2019 at 09:28 PM.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Hey Gang,
We added Mirrors, Side Louvers, Hood Latches & Da-Gas-Cap.
We also logged 5-7 more test miles today.
Shown below is our recent progress:
Louver Video:
https://youtu.be/QyMN73IW6I8
Update On Car:
https://youtu.be/uLmHEoWTEHg
Steve
Last edited by GoDadGo; 03-14-2019 at 02:43 PM.