Thank you. Fixed it in five seconds. Sure would be nice if there were better instructions. Oh well, moving on.
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My guess is that the mfg's (and maybe Mike) is assuming that if someone's undertaking this project, they've probably done a clutch install before, and feel that detailed instructions aren't necessary... maybe maybe not.Sure would be nice if there were better instructions. Oh well, moving on.
Personally I'd have liked to have some detailed instructions on Mike's hydraulic setup. It was a bit interesting figuring out what went where.
Be sure to use the supplied plastic dummy input shaft when assembling the clutch disc & pressure plate. It simulates the input shaft of the transmission, and keeps the disc concentric with everything... Also a light smear of chassis grease on the input shaft splines and pilot nose when you grunt the transmission into place.
Here's a couple of links that have a few handy tips n tricks for installing the transmission
Post 72
Post 76
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021
I’ve actually installed 3 or 4 clutches in my time, but more than 2 decades ago. Still would have thought this would be an easier job. Maybe they should hire you for technical write ups.
Questions, I don’t remember seeing that plug, is it in one of my boxes? Also, I didn’t paint that blocking plate but it comes off without removing the flywheel, do you think I should pull it and POR15 it?
I did use the alighnment tool. I’ve seen that the pressure plate bolts are toqued to 35 ft/lbs in Ram’s instructions and 35 plus 60 degrees in a FFF post. Which did you do?
Yeah... I found out about the inspection cover/plate being able to be fitted after angry.gif I'd removed the flywheel.
If I recall it's just raw steel, so it needs some type of protection... but I wouldn't go as far as POR-15. That stuff has a pretty thick film thickness. A light rattle can metal primer coat, then color of choice.
I don't remember if the rubber plug was knocking around in the "Ford Performance" parts box, or in one of Mike's boxes. Couldn't figure out what it was for until I saw a pic somewhere then icon_doh.gif
I used the RAM recommended 35 ft.lbs., then just an extra tweak of about 10degs.
Last edited by Fixit; 02-19-2019 at 05:37 PM.
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021
Bet you guys thought I was gone for good, didn't ya? Well, as it turns out I have developed a serious obsession/addiction for the build and I never have the time or the energy to do the build thread. Sorry about that. I am planning to catch up now as the family and I all headed out to the mountains for a spring break skiing trip and I'm nursing a finger injury anyway.
It will be quick updates as best I can remember them and depending on how good my notes were. I have been taking pictures though. I haven't run into anything too difficult or any earth-shattering problems, though some things have stumped me on the transmission for which Mike at Forte's was kind enough to help with on a Saturday night - that guy is committed to his craft! I have spent all my spare time in the garage since early January and I'm pleased with the progress, however; I'm not fast nor do I want to be because I love doing this. Which is strange because I also can't wait to drive it. Oh, the stress!
I bought a nutsert tool and broke it on the first nutsert. I guess I was thinking of it as a rivit rather than a rivnut and I pulled it until it popped. The company was great though, they sent me a whole rivnut kit.
Anyway, this is what I needed it for
Though, I changed my mind on the square hatch and made a round (ish) hatch and used more fasteners. I figure this is a location that will leak in the rain, so I sealed it with weather strip too. This is the Russ Thompson Drop Trunk too. Great product though it is tricky to get it in there with the gas tank and all.
Footboxes are started. No issues here, though I was a little thrown by a statement in the manual about not riveting to the main round frame tube when doing the floor. It turns out it’s okay and necessary on the floor pan in the footboxes.
I also bought the thicker tunnel top and partly so I could cut my own shifter hole because I wanted to use the mid-shifter. I may be changing my mind on that, but I’m happy to say that Mike Forte said he has developed a rear to mid-shift conversion which avoids splitting the TKO transmission.
I bought the Harbor Freight Bauer hand held band saw and mounted on some scrap lumber to turn it into a bench top model – amazingly capable. I have a ¼” aluminum plate I’ll attach to it for the deck.
It’s cold in the garage so I bought a 30,000 BTU natural gas heater which puts out virtually no CO. It’s comfy now!
I made my gas pedal extension from edwardbs suggestion. This allows the pedal to be moved away from the foot box wall. I made mine out of steel flat bar stock from Home Depot, it’s not as wide but it worked well.
Pedal mod is complete.
I like how the pedal feels, but it’s hard to tell without a seat.
I selected the Breeze Auto fuel delivery system. I think it’s brilliant. The pump is in the tank, the regulator is on the tank, the filter is on the tank, the return line stays at the tank. So all I had to do was run the braided fuel line to the fuel rail on the engine. This is as simple as it gets, plus it can supply more horsepower than the coyote makes…I like it!
EDIT: at the time of my installation FFR was supplying a fill tube gasket that was inferior to the Ford OEM part. My suggestion to anyone reading this is to verify that you are installing the OEM part number F4ZZ9072DA. It’s about 20 bucks more but the knock-off one lasted me less than 10,000 miles.
I decided on the single FFR supplied brake reservoir placed in the suggested location. I like the way it looks and it doesn’t block the view of the valve cover from the left fender view point.
I took the fairly typical routes out of the foot box forward and aft. Going through the foot box avoids the heat of the header. It travels behind the outer foot box vertical round tube, which I found to be plenty safe a location away from feet or anything else. It exits through a grommet in the floor pan. The forward brake line travels across the upper engine bay square tube to the left front brake.
The left front brake coupling is where I discovered my first mistake and what I think is FFRs fault originally. The left side F-panel is not positioned correctly as I could not mount the brake coupling in the correct location without modifying the F-panel. Here’s a picture of the left panel at the forward point and it is much wider when compared to the right one. I can only imagine that when I was mounting it I aligned the top and forward points and this caused a slight tilt and moved it forward in the brake coupling area about ¼” to ½”.
I ran the brake line that crosses over to the right front across the main tube just a little higher than where the front battery box will go, but still lower than the top of the tube.
Going aft I ended up having to use the short piece of brake tubing to make it all the way, so I placed it in between the two longer pieces.
Note: The rest of the brake line pictures going to the rear brakes were posted earlier starting at post #123 page 4.
If anybody has had trouble getting the big tip (3/16ths) in the pneumatic rivet gun I found a handy trick. Hold the tip upright with the closed end of a 10 mm wrench and compress the spring by pushing the gun down on it, then just turn the wrench to catch some threads.
I mounted the power distribution block and electrical cutoff switch in the same place as edwardb. They are very handy locations for these things, but I don't know that I will wire things exactly the same. Mostly because I don't want to buy 2 AWG battery wire. We'll see...
So what is this existing wire going to the PDB from the coyote wiring harness, does anyone recognize it?
I'm guessing it's at least partially the HAAT (Hot At All Times) power, but does it get connected along with the power wire from the battery through the cutoff switch as shown in the coyote install manual? Or could I connect it to the battery side of the cutoff switch?
Yes I recognize it. I believe the Ford instructions say to attach it to the fused side of the megafuse, e.g. same side as the short power cable to the PDB. Opposite side as where the power is coming in. That's what I've done on my builds.
Last edited by edwardb; 03-30-2019 at 01:05 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
The Coyote is in it's den. Thanks to Scott Kussel and Evan Middleton for helping me get this done in short order.
Installation went well with a few minor scratches and one thing I need to fix.
The Firewall Forward puts the new larger PDB too close to the engine to be mounted low. I'll be moving it about half way up the Firewall.
Congratulations. Now the real fun begins.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Yup... it's all cylinder head.Can I just say, even though it's been said a hundred times already, Damn, that's a wide engine!
Curious... what are your clearances PS & DS to the footbox tin?
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021