if you look at the complete kit tool requirement, it adds up quickly - I have about 1/2 of this stuff, but dang - it adds up quick!
https://cobradreams.com/items-that-i...-in-my-garage/
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if you look at the complete kit tool requirement, it adds up quickly - I have about 1/2 of this stuff, but dang - it adds up quick!
https://cobradreams.com/items-that-i...-in-my-garage/
Last edited by toadster; 07-30-2019 at 10:14 AM.
You have a lot on your list. Do you have a Harbor Freight near by?
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
Have no idea. Collected tools since I was a teenager so I had a solid base along with tool chests, engine hoist & work bench machines. IIRC I bought a air powered rivet gun, a pile of clecos & tool, air powered nibbler, Rivnut tool, transmission jack, 1/2" drive 250ftlbs torque wrench. Can't think of anything else right now but will add it if anything comes to mind.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
I printed off the list also and have been buying a few items that I don't already have in anticipation of building one, but I probably already had 75% of the tools.
I can't imagine anyone starts one of these builds that doesn't own a single tool.
Some of those prices seem high too, $80 for a set of screwdrivers is a little much
True, a typical builder would usually have had to have been a bit of a Gearhead, and have gathered some basic tools at least.
Not to say a total newbie shouldn't build one, but it sure will increase a build budget, having to get them all at once. Many standard tools you could probably get at pawn shops, or second hand stores, for a lot less money. Just try to avoid the junk tools, like ones made in India, or Taiwan..If your close to the Canada/US border, don't forget there is about a 30% saving on the exchange rate. Canadian Tire's wide range of Mastercraft tools, is pretty high quality, and with a lifetime guarantee. You can get some great specials on them from time to time. I was looking at this one today, (even though I don't need it..lol) as it was a smokin good deal. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...0294p.html#srp
I looked at about 1/3 of you list, then quit..You don't need a set of ratcheting wrenchs, or a dozen screw drivers or some $$$$ caulking gun. I doubt I spent more than $200 on tools, the only specialty tool was a set of cleco's, and maybe a few extra #30 drill bits.
Last edited by rich grsc; 07-30-2019 at 12:37 PM.
Toadster,
Don't over think this. If you look through the manual, each section has a list of tools needed. Most are basic hand tools like wrenches and screwdrivers. You'll most definitely need a drill, bits in two sizes for the rivets, and a rivet tool of some kind. Specialty tools can be borrowed from most AutoZone or similar stores. I recommend having a torque wrench of your own as you'll need it frequently. Some metal shears, a hammer, jack stands and a jack. A good wire crimper and stripper, and about 50 1/8" cleecos and 10-15 3/16" cleecos with a a set of pliers for them. Buy or borrow what you need as you go and you won't be left with a pile of tools you didn't use.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
yep, I plan on checking out the aisles there - but you get what you pay for, I've had hit or miss on some of their stuff to be honest
sounds like you've done plenty of work previously, probably the most intensive was replacing the rear axle on my son's mustang - I've done a bit but nothing like an engine replacement
LOL it's not that I don't have tools, this is the full list of stuff in the manual - so I was just adding it all up
agreed - I like to buy tools that will last - the one-off stuff I can risk for a cheap buy - but even things like the brake flare tool shows that you get what you pay for
it's not my list, it's Factory Five's list! what do you think was your best purchase in the $200?
Thanks all - just going through the inventory and listings...
Toaster, I had a decent base of tools already. When I need to use a 250 lb torque wrench, I will rent one from Auto Zone for free. I don't have or want to store an engine hoist. I will see of I can borrow one from friend or buy one on Craigslist then resale it afterward.
Harbor freight has its place. IMHO, it is not for precision tools or things you want to put to heavy use, it is great for prybars, light use air tools, and BFHs.
When quality is important, I agree on not buying the cheapest option. But, other than this car, I will probably never use a brake line flaring tool again. Amazon has a great selection of flaring tools that range from $20 to $300 plus. I think the $75 tool will do just fine. It maybe I'll rent that from Auto Zone too?
Items like a wire stripper and crimper that I will use over and over again for the rest of my life, I don't think twice about laying down some money for quality.
Terry
Last edited by TMartinLVNV; 07-30-2019 at 10:15 AM.
Thanks Allan. I will take you up on that offer. That is very nice of you.
Just a quick caveat, choose the tools that matter from a good auto parts supplier, sometimes the HF tools are from another land where QC is secondary, and the last thing you want is to get injured or have the car damaged. Good luck with the assembly.
Kind of off topic, but what Torque range should one look for when purchasing a torque wrench for a MK4 project? At present I have one that ranges between 50-250 ft.lb.
I had a basic set in the beginning. As the build started, I was visiting O'Rielly auto parts multiple times a weekend. As the build progressed, I was only making a single trip ( still multiple tools ), then towards the end, perhaps a new tool every 2 or 3 weeks.
Now that my build is done, I still go to the church of O'Reilly every now and then.
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here
Joining a local club is an easy way to increase access to one-time tools (and a great source of assistance and knowledge).
Our club has a couple items that float from build to build regularly: body buck, engine-hoist, engine stand, etc.
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!
I touch more than $2000 worth of tools and equipment everyday while working. I can't imagine the struggle you're going to go through assembling a kit on a shoestring tool budget but good luck to you. Remember, once the car is assembled you're going to need tools to work on it. And buy cheap -- buy twice, good quality tools last a couple of lifetimes and don't be afraid to cruise the swap meets and pawn shops for quality hand tools if you have a tight budget.
Tools are like horsepower -- you can never have enough.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
I've lost the video, but a recent thread on this or the other forum showed a comparison between the HF torque wrench and the Snap-On one. HF was slightly more accurate at a fraction of the price, and the build material & quality were comparable. That video is only one of many pieces of anecdotal evidence showing the HF torque wrenches are one of the best tool bargains out there.
And to BrewCityCobra's question: I found I needed three to finish my build. The first was a 1/4" drive mini-wrench for the front rotors 20-200 INCH-pounds, the second (work horse) was a 1/2" drive 10-150 Foot-pounds, and the third was the 1/2" drive 25-250 Foot-pounds for the wheel nuts. I also bought a 3/8" drive 10-80 Foot pounds just for the convenience of a shorter handle to fit in tighter spaces.
John
Last edited by phileas_fogg; 07-30-2019 at 01:17 PM.
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
There are must haves, that should be good quality tools, like socket sets and wrenches. There are use it once or twice items, they can be cheap "good enough" tools or loaners from parts stores. Then there is a huge amount of "make your like easier" tools. Ratcheting wrenches, pry bars, stubbies, wobble extensions, 90* screwdrivers, etc.
I have always been a cautious Harbor Freight buyer. There are a couple things that I will recommend. There is a lot of junk in there. But, they have been stepping up their game and basically cloning some high end tools. I actually bought a socket set and some wrenches when I was moving overseas and had already shipped my tools and my car broke down. I have to say that besides the "brand of shame", they are nice. They are in my emergency kit.
Here is my HF list of what you should get.
Torque wrench - Their basic 1/2" Pittsburg clicker is all you need. These have been tested many times and have proven to be as or even more accurate that high dollar counterparts. Their newer higher price point ones have been spanking Snap-On for accuracy and repeatability. Torque specs on cars are ranges. If you get it in the range, you are good. When you need 250# for the hubs, use a loaner from a parts store. You only need it once.
Rivnut tool. If you are doing any removable panels, the HF tool is all you need. Elephant ears and access panels are what I have done.
Floor jack. Their Daytona jacks are a copy of Snap-On. To the point that there was a law suit.
Digital calipers. More then accurate enough for automotive work. Sears carried the EXACT same one, with a Craftsman sticker. You don't really need this for the build anyway.
Parts store tools and usually pretty much the same as the HF low end stuff. Exceptions would be Lisle specialty tools, or some carry brands like GearWrench.
The $30 flare kits are junk. Parts stores, HF, Summit, etc all sell the same crap. A good, not too crazy tool is made by Ridged. You will likely need 37* and 45*.
Things I bought specifically for the build:
Swivel head rivet gun. Got it at Ace Hardware. There are a couple spots where you need it. If you put the rear cockpit wall in before the trunk floor like the instructions say......head on over to you helpful hardware man. Like I did.
Rivnut tool. HF. Refills from McMaster-Carr
Clecos
Fastrax alignment tool.
90* drill adapter.
Various drill bits, taps, and hole saws. I never seemed to have the exact size I needed.
What I wish I would have bought. I did some custom metal work. Fan shroud, glove box, etc.
Combination disc / belt sander.
Jig saw table. (basically a jigsaw mounted up under a table) Used one while helping a friend, and instantly smacked myself in the forehead. I wasn't really aware of them.
There was a bunch of stuff since I did my own body / paint. But that is a different subject.
I should probably caveat that I didn't follow the advice I provided. For my situation, I don't mind buying tools and I bought a few during my build that fall into the luxury, nice to have category.
Media blasting cabinet
Powder coating sprayer and oven
Eastwood flaring tool
Kool tools braded line fitting tool
Bendpak lift
300lb Torque wrench
Air mini belt sander
Air drill
90 degree head air drill
Extra jack
Extra jack stands
Power Probe II electrical test tool
Thread gauges
Step drill bits
Several other small tools
Do what works for you and your budget.
Dave
Last edited by Papa; 07-30-2019 at 07:10 PM.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
MPTech is 100% correct find local guys that have been doing cars for along time and make some friends. Or better yet see if there are other builders around you and see what you can borrow for one time uses. Things like a engine hoist, load lever and stuff like that. Some tools you will need to get like a wrench set and some torque wrenches and that type of stuff. One word of advise about Harbor Freight, do reviews before buying stuff. Some stuff is not that good and other things are awesome. I purchased their air riveter and it's great, Hot Rod magazine did a review of torque wrenches and theirs where found to be as accurate as my snap on ones. My best suggestion is get the basics and get the rest as you need it. If a build takes you 2 years why get a tool now that you may not not need or will need in a year from now.
Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.
If you are truly new to working on cars then I would highly recommend going to build school. I'm pretty sure that they would help you put together a good tool list and in the end probably save enough money to pay for build school.
I have a pretty large collection of tools and probably own everything on your list. It's nice to have but I have been collecting tools for 30 plus years. The first set I purchased was one of those 500 piece Craftsman sets that I saved for ever to get. Bought it my senior year in high school.
If nothing else, it looks like you have good planning skills.
Keep planning and remember, you will completely blow your budget if you listen to us on the two forums.
Last edited by CDXXVII; 07-31-2019 at 09:32 AM.
F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands
You also don't need to keep all the tools. I bought an engine hoist used on craigslist and will sell it once I am done with it. I will probably sell my electric rivet tool after the build as well.
Can't add a ton to what's already been written. But couple comments from my side. I started out with quite a few tools, so not at square one like you. But I agree with what others have suggested. Get the basics and add as needed during the build. I enjoy collecting and owning tools, so I don't buy them with the intent to sell when done. But that is an option for some. For limited use items, don't overlook the tool loaner program at your local parts stores. I've done that a few times, and usually with good success. Couple times the tools weren't in great shape so I ended up buying my own. But other times, they were new or nearly new and did the job. Don't write off Harbor Freight. I agree completely you need to pick and choose what to buy from them. I personally avoid their electric power tools (I've pretty much standardized on Milwaukee) and usually the pneumatic ones as well. But hand tools -- ratchets, sockets, wrenches, etc. -- are decent and often a fraction of the cost of other sources. Especially when on sale or with their coupons. Other stuff like sandpaper, drill bits, step drills, etc. are crazy cheap even if they don't last forever. Also useful for very limited use items like gear pullers, vacuum and pressure gauge sets, etc. I started out with a pretty large Craftsman set. But have added a number of things, often from HF, and all have been OK. I know the stuff is imported. But unless you're looking at the real high end tool lines (SnapOn, Matco, Cornwell, etc.) most of those are imported too. Maybe even from the same places. We have a couple local HF stores that I visit occasionally. It seems they are trying to upgrade their stuff across the board. Often with other brand names like Bauer, Daytona, etc. Seems like pretty decent stuff. As already stated, check the reviews. Also tons of comparison videos on YouTube.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
great feedback thank you!!
I have seen your build - tools make a HUGE difference in a build for sure...
yeah, i've seen those ~$50
I am going to the build school next week with my 23-y/o son should be a blast!
Yes, I'm assuming 20% bloat on top of the base prices
love your build(s) and yes, quality tools make a huge difference between frustration and excellence!
Or you could contact Jeff Kleiner or maybe 65 Cobra Dude (Col. Henry) and have one of those fellows get you to the point of having a Red Gel Coat Driver!
https://youtu.be/meBYeI96_A8
These fellows are the best of the best.
To bad I didn't know them before I started my build.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 07-31-2019 at 07:11 PM.
If you want to bust your budget - but save your back - seriously consider getting a lift. It's a major big ticket item but the pain, suffering and danger reduction is a major plus.
IMHO.
FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)
Screw drivers? I haven't used a standard screw driver in years. Slot types are more often used as small pry bars than their intended use. BTW, I never use slot tip screws. Get a ratcheting version and a bunch of tips. Mine are SnapOn because I used to be an auto tech but there are many inexpensive ones out there.
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-I...=gearbeacon-20
The philips tips should be the non-slip type. look real close at the side of the flutes near the tip for the ribbed surface
https://www.mcmaster.com/7164a67
Some times you can find them in regular stores but I usually order from McMaster when I order something else.
https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-driver-tips
Get a couple of the 2,3, 6 inch lengths also. BTW McMaster is the all time best source for hardware stuff Here is their overall tip page.
https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-driver-tips
Another example is their aluminum selection
https://www.mcmaster.com/aluminum
Even if I don't buy from them they are a fantastic source of info. Click the aluminum in the page above for info on alloys.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
you don't need a quikjack. See picture, plenty of room to work and a 19 dollar creeper!
wooden lift.jpg
FFR 35 p/u # 0014
I used to think I needed a Rolex watch, now I’d be happier with a Swedish K!
I have quick jacks and they work pretty well but you'll need to work around them. Also, they don't work too well on the roadster, so I had to make a "Bridge" so I can put the jacks as wide as possible under the car. Sorry about the upside down picture. Not sure why it does that.
Lifted.jpg
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
To me this is more than a hobby, I used to make my living turning wrenches, hot cars are a passion, and this is a lifestyle so I have lots of good quality tools and equipment. One piece of equipment I use daily is a four-post lift. I've had two of these things and as I get older I just can't see not having a lift. As a Ford service tech I used a variety of lifts, mostly the old single cylinder installed below grade with four arms -- much like the two-post lifts that are popular now. Hated them things, always laying on the floor to get the lift points aligned with the chassis and low cars usually needed ramps to make it over the arms.
The four-post lifts are inexpensive for what they do. Get the long ramp option and even lowered cars simply drive up on them. The ramp width is adjustable to accommodate a variety of vehicle track widths. I've used mine to service the wife's lawn tractor, ATVs, tractors, and my F550 -- simply adjust the ramp width (no tools necessary) and drive on the lift. When I fabricated the aluminum bed for my F550 I used the lift as an overhead crane to lift the bed and then back the truck under it. I've used it as an extended work bench when dealing with long cumbersome items, a welding positioner for long items, a stacker for storing vehicles, and a bunch of other stuff only limited by my imagination. I purchased the caster kit with my first lift and could roll the lift around the shop and even outside in the driveway where I could pressure wash the salt off my truck. This is an option for some that may not have the ceiling height in a garage. Then again, it's popular for muffler shops to install four-post lifts outside even in Flagstaff which is one of the snowiest cities in the country.
For less than $2K you can purchase a very handy piece of equipment that will get you off your back, make servicing vehicles easy, and solve storage problems when you have one more vehicle than you have room for.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Ditto on this one! I considered getting one and didn't and have regretted it ever since. Not only will a lift save your back and be safer than jacks, it will save you a ton of time as well if you are like me and you are constantly up and down getting tools, finding the nut you dropped, etc. This weekend I need to replace brakes on my son's car and AGAIN boy do I wish I had that lift. Also, the HF pneumatic riveter has worked well for me and is great when you have to pull a couple hundred rivets in a session.
John S
I've got to say that this doesn't look safe to me. The truck is not pushing straight down on the stack. Each tire is putting pressure on two 2x4s at about a 45* angle. Where the weight is, is unsupported from below. You are not using the compression strength of the wood. You are loading it laterally. I know we have all seen huge loads on cribbing stacks that look like that. But the load needs to be distributed across the whole thing and pushing straight down. So basically pushing down on the four solid corners. If one of those top 2x4s lets go, which is what you entire load is on, that truck is going to move.
I just saw that. But, it's not as bad as it looks. Assuming a contact angle to the board of 20 to 25 deg., or 10 to 12.5 degrees to each contact point off vertical, the friction force alone will probably hold it together, even without nails...just don't bump it. But even without the friction, the horizontal force component probably isn't enough to shear common framing nails. If properly assembled with corner bolts and glue there really shouldn't be an issue. But those nails don't look sufficient to provide an adequate safety factor by themselves.
No nails. 3 Inch deck screws. 2x4 18 inch long. Get clear wood as possible, no knots. This will hold a bunch of weight.
Note pictures.
wood lift 1.jpg
wood lift 2.jpg
more,
Note the wood is 1x3s . and a heavier car (pro stock Nova -not mine, I wish,a Friend of Tom Wallace's)
pro stock nova.jpg
Last edited by KenWilkinson; 08-05-2019 at 02:59 PM. Reason: more info
FFR 35 p/u # 0014
I used to think I needed a Rolex watch, now I’d be happier with a Swedish K!
My concern is the wood, not the fasteners. Some of the wood nowadays is very weak and the grain splits easily. I've never been a fan of cars up on wood where it is not solid.
There needs to be a solid stack directly under the load for it to be "safe" (and it's still questionable). wood-wood-wood. Not wood-air-wood.
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