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This is the Scott's Hotrods dual reservoir setup.
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RT drop trunk in place.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
TMartinLVNV
It is starting to look like a car now.
What tires are these? What size are they?
Your build is looking good, by the way!
David
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David, these are the standard tires that come from F5 when you order the tire/wheel package. I got the 17s and they came with Mickey Thompson ET Comp. 245/45 front and 315/35 rear.
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Senior Member
Thanks! My Kumhos have 13k miles on them and it's time for new tires. Can't get the Ecsta XS's any more, so I'm looking for other options that are nice and grippy.
David
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David, I haven't seen anyone write a great review of the MT tires. Several variety of the Nittos seem to be popular here. The MTs are pretty cheap. I planned to break in the car with these and then pick one of the Nittos. But who knows! Maybe these will be good.
Terry
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Not a waxer
RE: The M/T tires---While instructing a novice autocross school I drove a student's Camaro equipped with a set. They definitely weren't doing the car any favors but should make for a decent street cruiser tire as long as you understand their limitations. I ran Kumho XS for a couple of years and they're not in the same league.
Terry,
You're moving right along! I've never seen anyone use flex line for the entire braking system. Have you bled it yet and if so do you have a firm hard pedal? I have to wonder if the minute amount of swelling that occurs in even high pressure flex hose compounded over the whole length might result in a bit of a soft pedal. Curious to see what you've found.
Keep moving!
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 09-15-2019 at 06:29 AM.
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Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
RE: The M/T tires---While instructing a novice autocross school I drove a student's Camaro equipped with a set. They definitely weren't doing the car any favors but should make for a decent street cruiser tire as long as you understand their limitations. I ran Kumho XS for a couple of years and they're not in the same league.
Terry,
You're moving right along! I've never seen anyone use flex line for the entire braking system. Have you bled it yet and if so do you have a firm hard pedal? I have to wonder if the minute amount of swelling that occurs in even high pressure flex hose compounded over the whole length might result in a bit of a soft pedal. Curious to see what you've found.
Keep moving!
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I have not. That is going to be next weekend's task. I will post updates here when I do.
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Senior Member
Your really moving along Terry, you should easily make the Huntington Beach gathering in April. You got your car a day before me and your months ahead. The brake lines look really good.
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Thanks Bob. I was able to spend a solid week on it by taking some time off of work. I feel like I am further ahead than I planned. There have only be a few days where I have not done something on it. Right now my dash is on my kitchen counter and the gauges and gauge wire harness are on my dining room table. I should be putting the vinyl on it and installing the gauges/switches this weekend. Being a single guy has its advantages I can spread out anywhere in the house that I want.
Do you think you will be able to drive yours to Huntington?
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This morning was an expensive one. I decided to place my order for the motor. What the hell, it is only money. I've become quite accustomed to eating a bowl of Cheerios for dinner
After a lot of thought, I decided to go with Mike Forte. The deciding factor was that his price was virtually identical to BP but you get a new Dart block and the "Cobra" valve covers and air cleaner cover standard.
I ordered his 347 package. The main specs are:
Dart block
Edelbrock air gap intake manifold
Edelbrock E-Street heads
Power steering
Holley Sniper EFI
TKO 600 with .64 OD
Quicktime bell housing
Forte now offers to modify your motor mounts to fit the Dart block for a small fee. On a very similar build, his engine put out 438 hp and 415 ft lbs.
Last edited by TMartinLVNV; 09-16-2019 at 11:30 AM.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
TMartinLVNV
Thanks Bob. I was able to spend a solid week on it by taking some time off of work. I feel like I am further ahead than I planned. There have only be a few days where I have not done something on it. Right now my dash is on my kitchen counter and the gauges and gauge wire harness are on my dining room table. I should be putting the vinyl on it and installing the gauges/switches this weekend. Being a single guy has its advantages
I can spread out anywhere in the house that I want.
Do you think you will be able to drive yours to Huntington?
I may be able to make Huntington beach with the car, if not I will be there anyway. Currently we’re in the Grand Tetons in Wyoming, Maybe we can drop by on our way home to Ca. My motor should be arriving from Mike Forte a couple of days after we return.
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Originally Posted by
bobm488
I may be able to make Huntington beach with the car, if not I will be there anyway. Currently we’re in the Grand Tetons in Wyoming, Maybe we can drop by on our way home to Ca. My motor should be arriving from Mike Forte a couple of days after we return.
Sure. I'm a few miles off of I-15 on the south side of town. Did you end up going with the Coyote?
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
TMartinLVNV
Sure. I'm a few miles off of I-15 on the south side of town. Did you end up going with the Coyote?
Yes, Coyote and TKO 600. I will text you with the days we will be in Las Vegas
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
RE: The M/T tires---While instructing a novice autocross school I drove a student's Camaro equipped with a set. They definitely weren't doing the car any favors but should make for a decent street cruiser tire as long as you understand their limitations. I ran Kumho XS for a couple of years and they're not in the same league.
Terry,
You're moving right along! I've never seen anyone use flex line for the entire braking system. Have you bled it yet and if so do you have a firm hard pedal? I have to wonder if the minute amount of swelling that occurs in even high pressure flex hose compounded over the whole length might result in a bit of a soft pedal. Curious to see what you've found.
Keep moving!
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff. I read a few reviews on the M/T and they don't sound to be as grippy as the Kumhos. I'm leaning towards Nitto NT555 G2. I haven't autocrossed my car yet (just 13k miles of street smiles!), but I like the grip I get with the Kumhos and want to keep the autocross option available in the future!
I was also wondering about how well the the all-flex line brake system will feel. I look forward to hearing Terry's results!
David
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Senior Member
Terry,
Just a reminder to "insulate" everywhere your brake lines travel over an aluminum edge or go around an "outside" corner (steel or other-wise) . . . vibration is the worlds best "buzz saw" and will eventually cut thru anything, including high pressure brake lines.
A simple [split] rubber hose section or split loom used for electrical circuits will do wonders for protection. In the long runs, you might consider additional clamps for support.
Doc
FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.
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Originally Posted by
Big Blocker
Terry,
Just a reminder to "insulate" everywhere your brake lines travel over an aluminum edge or go around an "outside" corner (steel or other-wise) . . . vibration is the worlds best "buzz saw" and will eventually cut thru anything, including high pressure brake lines.
A simple [split] rubber hose section or split loom used for electrical circuits will do wonders for protection. In the long runs, you might consider additional clamps for support.
Doc
Good ideas Doc. For the left side of the frame run, I spread the clamps out just far enough so that the lines won't sag. Do you think I need more there? I don't know if over the long term they will become less stiff. I am planning on putting one more along the front cross member in the middle. Right now I only have one at each end. When I put on the "P" clamps with the hose installed, after riveting it in place, I folded the loop part over the rivet. This made the lines stand off from the frame about 1/4" and I thought it looked a bit more "clean" when installed that way. If I have any line that goes around an edge of aluminum, I usually get a section of hose, cut down one side, and fit it over that edge. If it moves around, I put double sided foamy tape to hold it in place. I already have this issue with the main harness where is goes between the steering column and firewall.
I started working on the dash today. I found the planning process to be a lot of fun although detailed work. I have all the extra holes cut, the vinyl/foam installed, and the gauge holes in the vinyl cut out. It is all being compressed by weights on my counter top until the glue has permanently set as I type this.
Terry
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Quite a bit of progress but not without some frustration. A POL box arrived. I was hoping for my fuel pressure regulator and EFI fuel lines. But the only thing in the box was the radiator. I got my brakes bled. That was quite a job. I did not do a bench bleed like so many others recommended. I just did them normally with both a buddy and his right foot and with a vacuum bleeder. It took a LOT of effort to get all of the air out of the system. I think I went through about a liter of brake fluid before I got a nice and firm pedal. A few fittings leaked until I snugged them up just a little more. Maybe it would have been easier if I did do the bench bleed?
Several people were curious as to how the pedal feels with my all flexible lines system. Here is my description. I'm not a car or brake system expert. The pedal is definitely firmer than my Nissan Maxima or my Jeep. The pedal moves about 1" with little resistance and then feels like it hits a wall. If I want it to go down further, I really have to mash it and the I can only get about 1/2" more pedal travel. So you guys tell me. Does that sound like the lines are expanding and causing a "mushy" feeling? I don't know, but it feels pretty darn good to me.
Trunk side walls in place. The little triangles were missing from my shipment. I did not see them mentioned on my parts list. I looked at my pics I took of the car before disassembly, and they were not there either. I emailed F5 and they sent them out right away no questions asked. I was eager to move forward so I put my trunk covers on. I will have to run my fuel lines while on my back and on my creeper under the car.
Back wall and some more X-Mat in place.
I was able to work on my dash some more. I'm still waiting on my switch labels to arrive from Carolina Laser (should be here on Mon). I got the switch guards from Perihelion designs. The empty hole is for my heater control knob. I did not like the speedo hiding behind the steering wheel on the left side. As a street car I felt that it was more important to have in view than the tach. With the tach on the left side, I can still see the sweep from about 4000 rpms and up where it is important. I'm going to start working on the wiring for the gauges next. The toggle next to the ignition is for the hazard lights. The toggle on the left side of the dash is for the hi/lo beams. I have the RF turn signal. Do you think that the hi/lo beam switch will interfere with the body or will be difficult to activate?
Last edited by TMartinLVNV; 09-21-2019 at 03:03 PM.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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Senior Member
Dash came out perfectly . . . looks really nice. Glad to hear that the brake lines you're using aren't an issue, but I'd keep an eye on them during the warmer days of Vegas. Good to hear that you are "protecting" the lines at critical points.
On another note, some of the guys here in town are doing the Red Rock Country Club (charity) "Vegas Auto Fest" show next weekend (Sat 10-2), you coming out to cheer us on??
Doc
FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.
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Doc, this is the first I have heard of this. Yes! I'll be there. But, I did a web search and all I see is 9-28, not 10-2.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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Junior Member
Terry, my Roadster was on the truck and delivered just before yours. The Stewart driver was using the crane system for the first time and things got a little hairy here and there. The poor guy had to experience Southeast Missouri humidity (7:30 in the morning and soaked to the skin) and then he had to go to Vegas. But it's dry heat!
We are in very similar places in the progress of the build. I lag behind a bit as I am having my aluminum panels powder coated so I assemble, drill, cleco, disassemble and take to the powder coater then restart assembly. I too have had system holdups due to the POL list but such is life. I just got back from a business trip today and there was another box from FFR on the porch. I have also ordered similar Breeze items with the battery box going in this weekend (along with the gas tank and some more aluminum). Also adding the cubby behind the seats for a little extra room. Going to powder coat the trunk / cubby area in black so it is not as noticable from outside the car. I am looking at the dual remote reservoir from Scotts and thank you for that lead.
What did you do for a motor / trans? I went to the Mott build school and Johnny from Blueprint engines was there and made his pitch and I went with their stroked 302 out to 347 c.i. with the TKO 600 trans and Holly EFI. Engine came in a few weeks back and the dyno card shows 440 horses and 450 ft/lbs torque. I would normally build my own engine but this is made with class components AND it has 3 year warrenty. I ran the numbers and they built it for what I would have paid for the parts and machining. Kind of a no brainer.
I plan to follow your build progress since your roadster shared the ride from Mass with mine. Best of luck Terry. Looks like you are off to a good start.
David Ulm
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Originally Posted by
Duster
Terry, my Roadster was on the truck and delivered just before yours. The Stewart driver was using the crane system for the first time and things got a little hairy here and there. The poor guy had to experience Southeast Missouri humidity (7:30 in the morning and soaked to the skin) and then he had to go to Vegas. But it's dry heat!
We are in very similar places in the progress of the build. I lag behind a bit as I am having my aluminum panels powder coated so I assemble, drill, cleco, disassemble and take to the powder coater then restart assembly. I too have had system holdups due to the POL list but such is life. I just got back from a business trip today and there was another box from FFR on the porch. I have also ordered similar Breeze items with the battery box going in this weekend (along with the gas tank and some more aluminum). Also adding the cubby behind the seats for a little extra room. Going to powder coat the trunk / cubby area in black so it is not as noticable from outside the car. I am looking at the dual remote reservoir from Scotts and thank you for that lead.
What did you do for a motor / trans? I went to the Mott build school and Johnny from Blueprint engines was there and made his pitch and I went with their stroked 302 out to 347 c.i. with the TKO 600 trans and Holly EFI. Engine came in a few weeks back and the dyno card shows 440 horses and 450 ft/lbs torque. I would normally build my own engine but this is made with class components AND it has 3 year warrenty. I ran the numbers and they built it for what I would have paid for the parts and machining. Kind of a no brainer.
I plan to follow your build progress since your roadster shared the ride from Mass with mine. Best of luck Terry. Looks like you are off to a good start.
David Ulm
Hey David. Bob in SoCal was the delivery after mine. That makes us triplets! We were all birthed from the same truck . The driver seemed to know what he was doing when he arrived here. Everything went smoothly.
I like the Scott's reservoir a lot. I do wish that held more brake fluid than a shot glass worth though. It comes with two holes in the bottom and two holes in the back. I used the back holes with a 90 degree elbow to hide the fitting. The other two holes needed plugs. You will have to purchase two plugs and two fittings. Papa on here turned me on to the Scott's option.
I ordered the Forte 347 motor with the TKO 600 and Holley EFI a few weeks ago. Blueprint was my second choice. I asked a lot of questions on here and decided on the Forte based on the new Dart block with 4 bolt splayed bearing caps. It will have Edelbrock E-Street heads and Air Gap manifold. On a very similar build he did, the numbers were 436 hp and 406 ft lbs I think. I also liked that the "Ford Cobra" intake cover and valve covers were already included. The BluePrint seems to be a fine option too.
The wiring behind the dash has really held me up. I feel like it has put me back two weeks. As I said on another post, my cro-magnon brain just doesn't do electrons. I understand pistons, compression, rings, and rockers just fine. BigBlocker on here is coming over to my house on Thurs to bail me out and get the electrical all finished up.
Terry
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
TMartinLVNV
Hey David. Bob in SoCal was the delivery after mine. That makes us triplets! We were all birthed from the same truck
. The driver seemed to know what he was doing when he arrived here. Everything went smoothly.
I like the Scott's reservoir a lot. I do wish that held more brake fluid than a shot glass worth though. It comes with two holes in the bottom and two holes in the back. I used the back holes with a 90 degree elbow to hide the fitting. The other two holes needed plugs. You will have to purchase two plugs and two fittings. Papa on here turned me on to the Scott's option.
I ordered the Forte 347 motor with the TKO 600 and Holley EFI a few weeks ago. Blueprint was my second choice. I asked a lot of questions on here and decided on the Forte based on the new Dart block with 4 bolt splayed bearing caps. It will have Edelbrock E-Street heads and Air Gap manifold. On a very similar build he did, the numbers were 436 hp and 406 ft lbs I think. I also liked that the "Ford Cobra" intake cover and valve covers were already included. The BluePrint seems to be a fine option too.
The wiring behind the dash has really held me up. I feel like it has put me back two weeks. As I said on another post, my cro-magnon brain just doesn't do electrons. I understand pistons, compression, rings, and rockers just fine. BigBlocker on here is coming over to my house on Thurs to bail me out and get the electrical all finished up.
Terry
I visited Terry last week, it was a pleasure meeting you. I guess being the third triplet is why I'm a month behind you two with my build. Now that CNC closed shop the remote reservoir seems to be an issue. I will be picking up a Jamar triple billet reservoir from Kartek today.
Bob the Builder
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Looks great Terry. Glad those flex brake lines are working out for you. Just an observation on the dash. Did you look to see where your dash screws are going to be located once the body is on? Not sure if you planned for a removable dash, but if so, might be something to look into. If not, then disregard my post.
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I did not. I tucked my dash up as high as possible with the body on. After the weatherstripping is put on, I think the body will sit a tad higher. My guess is that the screws will be obscured. I had not planned on making the dash removable. Is that a big deal? I was hoping to finish the wiring and never having to look at it again
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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A couple of updates. I ordered a few parts from Mike Everson including the vinyl shifter boot and RT turn signal bezel for the dash. I also talked to Forte. For just a few extra $$ he will have the trans/motor assembled instead of shipping it out in separate pieces. I figured that is one less thing for me to screw up. Money well spent IMHO. He already has the Dart block delivered to his shop and he expects to start the assembly early next week. vroom! vroom!
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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I'm back at work and finally making forward progress again. Thanks to everyone for the encouraging words.
Last night, Big Blocker and Jack came over to help out and drink my beer They helped me out a lot. It was a bit like a college physics professor explaining to a 5 year old how a black hole works, but I think they finally got through to me. Also, I called F5 this morning and got some more of other wiring issues worked out.
First of all, disregard this picture in the wiring manual. It is wrong. It has the two lamp wires going into the gauge feed spade. The two lamp wires should be going into where the picture shows the brown (gauge feed) wires. That socket is curiously labeled "Lamp". So the lamp wires should go onto the "lamp" spade. Even that makes sense to me
On page 56 of the Jan 2018 revision of the RF manual, it has you make a daisy chain of red wires from one of the gauge feed wires. The two longer connections are not needed. There are actually two brown gauge feed wires in the harness. One for the speedo/tach and one for the 5 small gauges. This caused me many hours of grief and head scratching.
I have my trunk/under dash LEDs all hooked up to a HAAT toggle switch. I was originally going to hook them up to my keyed on fuse box, but decided to do it this way so that if I need the lights to look for something but don't have my keys with me, I can just flip the switch. I will have to be careful not to leave them on with the ignition off. The black carpet in the footwells will absorb a lot of the red glow. I also used the red bulb covers in the gauges.
4 LED lights for $15 on Amazon, any color you want
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by TMartinLVNV; 10-04-2019 at 01:59 PM.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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Today was very productive. I think I have all of the wiring done until the motor is installed. It feels really good to have that behind me. My aux fuse box is working perfectly. Since I'm not installing a stereo, I'm using the keyed on radio power to trigger the relay to power the fuse box. I'm still waiting for my fuel lines and regulator for FI on my POL.
I worked on the radiator today. I purchased the shroud, upper hinged mount, and lower mount from Breeze. Everything fit perfectly. I had the parts powder coated. I got the fan, shroud, and upper mount installed tonight. It is 9:00 at night and I'm tired. So this is a good place to stop and grab a beer and turn on Netflix. I'll get the lower mount done later.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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Today was seat heater install day. This job was pretty easy. The seats are Kirkey 17" Vintage. I ran the power wires up to my aux fuse box. I plan to mount the relays to the rear wall behind the seat.
I removed the bottom foam and glued the heaters to the underside of the seat cover. The back heater was trimmed a few inches and the bottom heater was trimmed in half.
Next I installed new foam over the bottom heater and added foam to the rear heater.
Finally, I ran the wires out through an existing hole.
Last edited by TMartinLVNV; 10-11-2019 at 12:09 AM.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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Your build is looking great! what is the story on the cruise control, where'd you pick it up?
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Originally Posted by
PrestonT23
Your build is looking great! what is the story on the cruise control, where'd you pick it up?
This is the one I have.
https://www.thecruisecontrolstore.co...c-speedometer/
Only the switch is installed on the dash for now. I'm going to wait until after I get through the go cart phase to install the actual module. I want to make sure everything is working on the car before adding it.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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I had a few hours to work on the Roadster today. I mounted the seats and glued in some carpet. I feel like I'm running out of things to do before the motor arrives.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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I went with the mild steel pipes from FFR. I actually like them loud. Not sure how the neighbors are going to feel about that though. Anyway, I just got them back from coating. I was originally going to have them ceramic coated. When I was picking up some other parts from the powder coater, I talked to him about it. He said that he has a special high temp (800 degrees) powder coating and he guarantees that it will hold up. So, I gave it a shot. I really like the textured look.
I think that I'm going to leave the headers uncoated for now. They are the F5 stainless ones.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
Terry,
You should be fine, hottest point on the side pipes is the bends just after it leaves the body cutout - about 400°f at a standing idle. That improves a bit at speed due to air flow.
Pipes came out real nice . . .
Doc
FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.
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Originally Posted by
TMartinLVNV
[/URL]
Did you punch the holes in the Kirkey or are they coming that way now? Build is coming together nicely, btw.
-Steve
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Senior Member
Looks like you will be go carting by Thanksgiving. Any word on when Mike will be shipping you motor? Mine took two weeks to get to Ca.