Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[TMartinLVNV]

Jeff, that is a great wife you have there.

Terry

[edwardb]

Hi, I was wondering if you had a picture of your under carriage, the way it currently sits. I would love to see where your seat bolts are coming out of.

Im using FFR aluminum low back seats with Speedway universal seat rails. Also used the Kirkland seat brackets for the seats. On the passenger side both my front bolts ended up coming out by bracing where putting a nut on will take some grinding lol. really tried to get the seat in the seat pan. I did the template like you did but was off alittle. longer bolts will fix the issue.

thanks
Nelson

The Corbeau seats and base I used gave me quite a bit of flexibility of where to place the seat mounting bolts. So not sure how much this will apply to your situation. But here's a pic of the driver's side. Easier to see from the top versus the underside. Three of the bolts are in the seat pan. The fourth (top right in this case) is through a frame rail so takes a longer bolt. You can kind of see the outline of my seat base where it pushed into the Lizard Skin a little. As I think I showed earlier, I put aligning nuts (these https://www.mcmaster.com/90955a123) on the seat frame so once aligned, the bolts go in from the bottom with nothing to reach or hold from the inside. Which would be very difficult. The seats are out now, and hopefully will go in one last time once the carpet is in. Hope this helps.

[edwardb]

Last update before leaving on vacation for two weeks. Prepared a 3-page punch list of everything needed to finish this thing. Quite a bit there, but a good sign it’s down to a list I can manage. The remaining powder coat parts are at the plater. The interior parts at the interior shop. Met with them yesterday to work out the details. Both places promised they’d be done when we get back. Ordered the new 16-foot SE trailer as mentioned before, and Larry Johnson is quoting 8-10 weeks. Pick-up will be in Three Rivers, Michigan like my last one. The owner of my old SE is leaving it here at my place until the new one is ready. So I’m not without a trailer if needed.

For the actual build, knocked out some last-minute details on the front cowl. Did the final trim on the back edge. Turns out the side vents (by the latches) were cut out but undersized. Used the provided template and the pressed screen to get them properly sized and put a radius on the edges. Both the vent and latch openings had gaps between the inner and outer fiberglass shells. Somewhat like the hood scoop cutout on the Roadster. So got those filled with HSRF and should be good to go. Little more clean-up on the underside and then the bedliner spray when we get back, and it will be done except for paint of course.

Had a bit of a scare that’s maybe worth mentioning. I ran the Coyote checking out a few things. Still chasing a few codes Ford Performance is working on. Later came back to the garage to find a puddle of antifreeze on the ground in the vicinity of the RH (passenger) rear corner of the engine. Good grief. Heater hoses and heater control valve back there but confirmed nothing was leaking. Further review with a trouble light and could see antifreeze on the back corner of the head and running down onto the starter motor and then to the floor. I panicked thinking maybe head gasket, but at least in my experience that’s not how they leak. But still had visions in my head of a big problem. After things cooled off, dug deeper and found the source of the problem. It was the heater hose connection at the front of the engine. Was leaking from there and running down between the top of the head and the intake, and eventually off the back of the engine. The connectors I used were what come with the Coyote installation kit. But I knew from the Roadster build they are Gates 28504 connectors. So ordered a couple and replaced the one that was leaking. Immediately could tell it fit better, locked on tighter, and didn’t wobble like the other one. In comparing the parts, the ones with the kit are marked made in China with an unidentified logo. The Gates ones have the Gates logo and the package says made in the U.S.A. Cheap knock-off parts included in the kit? Would seem so. Decided to switch the other side too as a preemptive move. A little disappointing, I guess. But relieved not to have a serious problem.

Another small detail to sort out was the Speedhut GPS antenna location. After studying multiple locations, ended up making a bracket out of 16-gauge steel (aluminum wouldn’t be the best choice for the magnetic antenna…) and attaching it to the LH firewall extension. This places the antenna in a similar location as the windshield mounting bracket location often used on the Roadster except on the other side. It's just below the fiberglass body and in front of the windshield and any other obstacles. Which for me has always worked well.



An update about my paint situation. Today I went to the shop and met with the owner and general manager. We were able to reach an agreement (yea!) and I will deliver the Coupe for paint on Oct 1. Completion promised in 10 weeks or less. I’m not going to discuss the specifics, but summary is somewhat more than I expected but less than first quoted. I know they will do an awesome job, as they did on the last two they painted for me. So very happy and relieved to have this behind me for now.

Finally, on a side note, last weekend was the big Woodward Dream Cruise here in SE Michigan. Organizers claim 1.5 million people and 40,000 classic cars. Officially, it’s the third Saturday in August. But in reality, people and cars pack Woodward Ave. for a couple of weeks. Our Great Lakes Cobra Club had an event during the week, and then an all-day event the day of the cruise. 60+ cars and 100+ members, so a great turnout. Between admission, silent auction, and rides made a sizeable contribution to charity. I gave two rides myself. Not the London Cobra Show quick shots, but a nice cruise on Woodward taking in the sights and event. Weather cooperated for a great day. #8674 just about to turn 6,000 miles on the way home. Good times.

[Automan]

Yes it does!!! thankyou.

I managed to get the passenger seat in with the rails functioning with my self sitting it. (230lbs lolol). The position of the seat belt mounts, its hard to get the seat all the way back. I did as far as it could go. Leaves me with aLittle storage space behind the seat. My god its a chore to get in and out of the car up on jack stands lolol. Hope its a little easier on the ground with doors to hold me lol.

Here are some pics of the seat. And a pic of my 1965 289 in the engine bay almost ready to turn over. Also my Dash.

cockpit 1.jpgcockpit 2.jpgengine bay 2.jpgsteering.jpg

Nelson

[edwardb]

Yes it does!!! thankyou.

I managed to get the passenger seat in with the rails functioning with my self sitting it. (230lbs lolol). The position of the seat belt mounts, its hard to get the seat all the way back. I did as far as it could go. Leaves me with aLittle storage space behind the seat. My god its a chore to get in and out of the car up on jack stands lolol. Hope its a little easier on the ground with doors to hold me lol.

Here are some pics of the seat. And a pic of my 1965 289 in the engine bay almost ready to turn over. Also my Dash.

cockpit 1.jpgcockpit 2.jpgengine bay 2.jpgsteering.jpg

Nelson

Glad it helped. Looking good!

[Automan]

Hi Mr Edwards, how do you plan on installing your rear backup light.

Where will you mount it?

Im considering buying the same light fixture as you got. Just dont know exactly where to put it.

thanks
Nelson

[edwardb]

Hi Mr Edwards, how do you plan on installing your rear backup light.

Where will you mount it?

Im considering buying the same light fixture as you got. Just dont know exactly where to put it.

thanks
Nelson

I did show my initial idea of using a single Maxxima M42206 14 LED for a backup light here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post311486. But decided I didn't like the look of the light or cutting that big hole in the rear panel. Briefly considered hanging it under the rear panel, but nixed that idea too. I ended up using these lights: https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...marker-lights/. Described in this post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post369063. And shown in this video: https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8. I'm happy with how it turned out. But a lot of personal taste involved. Hope this helps.

[Automan]

I did show my initial idea of using a single Maxxima M42206 14 LED for a backup light here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post311486. But decided I did like the look of the light or cutting that big hole in the rear panel. Briefly considered hanging it under the rear panel, but nixed that idea too. I ended up using these lights: https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...marker-lights/. Described in this post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post369063. And shown in this video: https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8. I'm happy with how it turned out. But a lot of personal taste involved. Hope this helps.

I just re read those posts. That is exactly what lights i was hoping for but couldnt find them. Checked everywhere (well obviously not everywhere lol) even finish line.

I watch the video and its perfect. Ordering those rear backup lights now.

Thankyou!!!!!!!

[Automan]

I just re read those posts. That is exactly what lights i was hoping for but couldnt find them. Checked everywhere (well obviously not everywhere lol) even finish line.

I watch the video and its perfect. Ordering those rear backup lights now.

Thankyou!!!!!!!

So, i just ordered the lights lol, thanks again. 2 for either side. So i am using a TKO 500. Do you have a simple wiring diagram for installation of backup lights?

Nelson

[edwardb]

So, i just ordered the lights lol, thanks again. 2 for either side. So i am using a TKO 500. Do you have a simple wiring diagram for installation of backup lights?

Nelson

I powered the backup lights (and reverse lockout module in my case with the T-56) with the 10 amp radio circuit in the RF harness. No radio in my build, so it was an available circuit. On your TKO, the backup light switch is the front one on the LH side. Two threaded looking prongs sticking out of a screw-in switch. That switch is normally open, and closed when the transmission is in reverse. I ran a wire from the radio wire to one side of the switch (doesn't matter) and then from the other side to the positive wires of the backup lights in the back. Then ground the backup lights. I added the required wires to the rear harness before installing. Will work whenever the key is on (the radio circuit is an Acc Feed) and the transmission is in reverse. In the past, some have used a relay. But the LED lights pull so little current, it's not necessary. You'll need a pigtail that fits that switch on the transmission. Different than the one I used on my T-56.

[Lougarvin]

Hola Paul,

Slowly but surely following your build on my Coupe. Just ordered the Pro-M fuel pickup and Breeze tank vent. The Ford tank seal now has different numbers. One is for ‘98 Mustangs and the other is for ‘99 thru 2004. Which one please?

Thanks Lou.

[1932]

What master cylinder did you use, i have 3/4 and it needs just a little more. But with knee pain do not want any more than needed.

[edwardb]

Hola Paul,

Slowly but surely following your build on my Coupe. Just ordered the Pro-M fuel pickup and Breeze tank vent. The Ford tank seal now has different numbers. One is for ‘98 Mustangs and the other is for ‘99 thru 2004. Which one please?

Thanks Lou.

I have no experience with other part numbers or tanks from those years. I've only ever used the F4ZZ-9072-DA filler neck seal. It's for 87 - 93 Fox body Mustangs, which matches the most common fuel tanks used including in all of my builds. Available from numerous sources, including Amazon. Also here: https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...-neck-to-tank/.

What master cylinder did you use, i have 3/4 and it needs just a little more. But with knee pain do not want any more than needed.

The two builds I've done with the Wilwood pedal box (Roadster #8674 and the Gen 3 Coupe) used .75 MC's for the front, and .625 MC's for the rear. I have no personal experience with other sizes, so can't make any recommendations. You may want to consider power brakes.

[1932]

I was asking about master for the tilton throw out bearing, i am using the same as you ( very happy with it ) but need some more travel. Have body off so i will change it out to 1 or 1 1/8. Which one are you using?

[edwardb]

I was asking about master for the tilton throw out bearing, i am using the same as you ( very happy with it ) but need some more travel. Have body off so i will change it out to 1 or 1 1/8. Which one are you using?

Oops. Sorry for the misunderstanding. I'm using a Wilwood 260-10373 13/16-inch master cylinder with my Tilton 60-6104 Hydraulic Release Bearing (HRB). That was the size recommended by Tilton using their instructions along with the Ford Performance M-7560-T46 (Centerforce dual friction) clutch. Based on testing to date and two miles of preliminary driving, everything is perfect. Easy and smooth pedal pressure, release point right where I want it, exact amount of throw, etc. Extremely happy with the setup so far. A larger MC would give more travel, but Tilton is very specific about the maximum throw of the HRB. So be very cautious there. Mine isn't moving the maximum amount, but it's somewhat close. Also, increasing the MC size will increase the effort required.

https://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/...ies-HRB-V2.pdf

[edwardb]

We’ve been back from vacation just over a week now. Took a bit to get things settled back down on the home front including harvesting my lawn. Cooler weather and rain while we were gone made it go a bit crazy. Couple words about our vacation. Two weeks divided between our son and family in Nampa, Idaho and a whole bunch of my family in southern Oregon. It was kind of a family reunion to celebrate my Dad’s upcoming 90th, and we used the occasion to have a family workday to paint the entire outside of their place and put a new roof on their shed. We were done by 3:00. Amazing what a lot of hands can accomplish. Looks great and they were so appreciative since this isn’t something they can do any more. Had a chance to visit one of my favorite places on the planet with my brother and his wife. If you haven’t been to Crater Lake, Oregon, it’s worth checking out. Measured at 1,949 feet deep which is incredible. Couple of iPhone pics below, which don't remotely give it justice. Stopped at Beckie’s Cafe on the way back for some huckleberry pie. Locals will know just what I’m talking about. Unfortunately, a little too much drama on the last day before we flew home. My wife tripped on a parking lot bumper while stopped during our drive back to Idaho. Broke her wrist and generally a little banged up. Pretty scary how quickly something like that can happen. Two ER visits and she’s on the mend. But guess who’s helping a little more than usual (no comments) with cooking, dishes, driving, etc.





Meanwhile, back to the build. Working down my list of things to complete before delivering for paint on October 1. The interior shop finished up my interior pieces while we were gone. I had them do the stitching and place the pieces on the panels. Minimal wrapping and none of the cut-outs. I wanted to do the finishing myself to save a little $$ plus take a little more time on the details. After some hours, the main pieces were ready to install. Also made and finished the glovebox door and got that all fitted. As of last night, have everything mostly back together. The dash will come apart if necessary, but really hope not to. Not a friendly place to work. All the fasteners for the dash are mostly hidden. Same for the upper transmission cover. The lower transmission cover (over the shifter and e-brake) is removeable and decided to put three screws through each edge. Mostly covered by the seats. Will be using some black chrome 10-32 screws from our local Ace. Stupid expensive, but look nice and blend reasonably well. Still have some work to do on the door cards but will save that for later. Took these quick pictures last night. The garage lighting doesn’t play nice on the vinyl covering. But the color match between the regular black vinyl and the carbon fiber style vinyl (matching the Corbeau seats) looks decent. Carpet will go on after paint. I’m very happy with how this is turning out.







The glovebox door uses the same Richelieu 173167 hinges from Lowes (also the same ones used by Alex on his dash kit) and the VW 111857131L pull/lock as #8674. The button inside is for the Digital Guard Dawg keyless ignition system. Used for system access, emergency unlock, etc. Not required for normal operation.



Club event today, and we’re visiting the Factory Five build school tomorrow. Next steps on the build are to get the body undercoated (U-POL Raptor) and back onto the chassis. October 1 is approaching quickly.

[Jkviper]

Wow, that interior looks great and very tastefully done. Really enjoying your build thread.

[WIS89]

Paul-

Welcome home; nice to hear about your trip, and the family reunion. Very cool of y'all to work on your parent's home! I love the message this sends to everyone, that family is important, and taking care of each other is a priority! (at least that's how I see it; please forgive me for elbowing my way into your family's message)

I am very sorry to hear about your wife's wrist. Once again, the laws of gravity are undefeated. I wish her a speedy (and painless) recovery!

As usual, your updates are terrific! I really like the way the interior is coming together. I know you must be excited about getting some color on her.

I remain inspired by both the quality and the speed with which you complete these builds! And, I really appreciate the time you spend so willingly to help out the rest of us!

Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve

[WIS89]

Duplicate post, sorry!!

[Papa]

I love the red stitching, Paul. It really gives the interior a modern, racy look.

Dave

[GoDadGo]

I love the red stitching, Paul. It really gives the interior a modern, racy look.

Dave

Ditto Regarding Papa Dave's Comment!

If you want a steering wheel to match, then this one might be for you.

http://www.grantproducts.com/products/view/837/

You would need to change the hub, but the wheel also has the red stitching in addition to the top marker so it might match.

Looking Forward To Seeing Your Latest Work Of Art!

[Straversi]

Nailed it! Great use of textures and patterns without going over the top. Can’t wait to see it with the seats and final trim. Speedy recovery to the boss.
-Steve

[jdavis500]

Love it!

[Bob Brandle]

Looks Wonderful Paul!! Great upgrading of the period correct design to a bit more modern and plush look, while keeping the racy look too. Works GREAT!!

[Kool AC]

Looking good Paul. You continue to set the bar on these builds.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks fantastic Paul!

Sorry to hear about Sharon's spill---here's wishing her a speedy recovery.

Jeff

[Walt]

Paul, your build is looking great, i am installing an a/c setup in my roadster, i like your dash vents more then the ones that came with mine, might i ask where you got them?
Thanks
Walt

[edwardb]

Paul, your build is looking great, i am installing an a/c setup in my roadster, i like your dash vents more then the ones that came with mine, might i ask where you got them?
Thanks
Walt

Thanks. And thanks to all the others for the positive and encouraging posts.

The center two vents are what came with the Gen 3 Coupe heat/A-C kit from Factory Five. I liked the style OK plus I like how they can be easily completely shut off. Since the setup doesn't have any duct or blend valves, serves as a kind of rudimentary control, e.g. force more air pressure to the defrosters, or to one side or the other. I found 499193 Vintage Air louvers were an exact external match. The kit supplied ones had longer internal threads, but both work for this installation and look identical. The two outside ones in my dash are the Vintage Air pieces. I bought them at Summit, but available from multiple sources.

[Walt]

Great Paul, thanks , and again your builds are pretty amazing!!

Walt

[edwardb]

Big day today. This morning my friend Greg, who’s building a challenge car and lives close by, came over and was a huge help completing the U-POL Raptor spray on the underside of the body and cowl. Super happy with how it turned out. But first some preliminary steps completed earlier this week. I’ve mentioned before, but I’m trying to get a decent enough finish in the cockpit roof to not use the kit supplied headliner. I really don’t want to mess with it, plus the roof kind of disappears behind the roll cage. So I’m hoping a clean, relatively smooth surface will be OK and look good.

I intentionally saved enough of the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation (CI) to coat the underside of the cockpit area. Not sure exactly how much but thought it might help to reduce heat radiated into the cockpit. Can’t hurt, right? So sanded the surface a bit to knock down the big bumps, masked it off, and gave it a spray. There are several coats.



The piece of Gorilla tape in the foreground has a story, which I’ll explain since it’s yet another lesson learned. I handle the body very carefully, turning it over, spinning around, etc. But when it’s on its roof like pictured here, the sides are quite flexible. Apparently, I wasn’t being careful enough because while working to mask off for the heat control spray, heard a cracking sound and found the back flange of the hatch opening cracked at the LH (as looking at the picture) hatch hinge opening. That area is under a lot of stress with the sides moving out, and the cut-out weakened it enough to crack there. I used some HSRF and some clamps to squeeze it back together. Then added two layers of glass in the area. I preemptively also put two layers of glass on the other side. Also left the glass across the cutout, and will trim out once the body is back on the chassis. The tape across the opening limited the movement of the sides to hopefully prevent any new damage. Lesson learned for other builders? Maybe not cut that back edge until the body is installed on the chassis for the last time. As an aside comment, the slot I cut is considerably smaller than the one shown in the manual. Some, with the revised hinges (which I have) report that no slot is required. I couldn’t find any position for the hinge where the slot wasn’t necessary.

Moving on, for the cowl, since the underside is exposed for the world to see with the cowl tipped up, spent some time trying to clean it up some. It does have a partial shell on the underside, which is an improvement over previous versions. And the remaining glass did have a pretty thick covering of some type of black undercoat material. But there was a lot of adhesive and rough edges to clean up. Then I decided it would really look a lot better if the open gaps between the rib pieces and the shell were filled. I think everything is bonded OK. But appearance could be better. So HSRF to the rescue again and filled everything in. Also chose to backfill the wheel opening lips with some HSRF to make a more gradual transition rather than the sharp angle. Did that for the front and rear wheels. Can’t see too much in these pictures but looks like this ready for spray.

[edwardb]

With that, time for masking and spraying. Spent a day plus getting everything masked including the outside of the body completely covered. My experience with spraying undercoat using a Shutz style gun is that material goes everywhere. So a complete mask is pretty important. I also took the time to mask all the edges, so they’ll be painted rather than have undercoat. And there are a lot of edges on these two big pieces. I spread two big tarps on my driveway and sprayed toward the woods. Fortunately, the weather cooperated with reasonable temps, no rain, and no wind. Perfect. Using the one gallon U-POL Raptor kit, was able to get a full coverage coat on everything (Greg was following behind checking as I went), two coats on the cockpit roof, and three coats in the rear wheel wells. The front wheel wells already have the thick factory coating, so didn’t need additional coats. Also got three coats on the rear splash guards. That used every last bit of the one gallon kit. A few hours ago, pulled all the masking. It’s cured enough to touch. But needs at least 24 hours, so I’m walking away from it until Monday. Tried to get a few pics. Shadows in the garage prevent good pictures. But the coverage and color is very consistent. Couple small details plus time to cure, and these pieces will go back on the chassis for the very last time.









Also, the rear splash guards.



So some comments/observations about the U-POL Raptor product and the application. I spent a lot of time reading the directions, watching YouTube videos, etc. First, note this is a urethane 2-part catalyzed product, so in theory cures to a much harder finish than air dry water or solvent based products. Like Herculiner. Plus it’s possible to have a finer finish than those brush or roller applied products. But it’s definitely more work, a little more expensive, and highly recommended to use a respirator, gloves, and use the product carefully. Note also since it’s catalyzed, once mixed the material has a one hour pot life and will completely cure in about 24 hours. You would need to save unmixed components to have any for touchup or whatever.

The kit that I bought included the “free” standard Shutz gun. It worked fine and it’s handy how it screws directly onto the bottles of material. I read several bad reviews. But seems if you clean it after each bottle, it sprays consistently. I found this to be the case. After each bottle, just sprayed some reducer through it and went to the next bottle. This material and gun will always spray a textured finish. I was OK with that but wanted it relatively smooth. (Relatively being the key word here…) After reading other recommendations and doing a little testing, found that between 60-70 PSI and 15–18 inches distance gave the finish I was happy with. For the second coat of spray on the underside of the cockpit, we added about 1/2 ounce of reducer to the last 1/2 bottle of material. Then sprayed from a slightly further distance. This gave an even finer/smoother finish. Perfect for the second coat but maybe wouldn’t provide as good of coverage for a first coat. Late yesterday, I found that U-POL sells a higher end adjustable gun (UPL-UP4880) than can apparently give an even smoother finish. Wish I would have found out about that sooner because probably would have sprung for it. But couldn’t have it here soon enough to get the spray completed and my assembled car to paint on Oct 1. Maybe next time. U-POL also describes a process where with even more reducer and a more standard HVLP gun, you can get an even finer finish. Didn't pursue that, but another option.

I don’t consider myself an expert sprayer by any means. But I’ve done enough of it over the years to be mildly experienced. I found this product and the process to be relatively straightforward and not hard to apply. I think anyone following the directions could do the same. The finish is vastly better than the brushed-on water-based undercoat of #8674. But then again, for a Roadster, the underside is basically unseen. For the Coupe, not the case. No question it’s harder and in the long run probably more durable. Which may or may not matter as the material under #8674 is still fine after three seasons and thousands of miles. Would I use it again? Absolutely. Probably my first choice now. Where appearance isn’t as critical, U-POL does sell a brush/roll-on version. Also a urethane 2-part catalyzed material. For a Roadster build, that’s something I’d seriously consider while avoiding the time and effort for spray masking.

That's it. Next week everything goes back together and ready for the painter the following week.

[GoDadGo]

I'm a big fan of this product.
It really looks professional if you've got the touch which you most certainly do.
Super Job From This Guys Perspective!

[Jim1855]

Paul,

Looks great. I hope to follow something similar for the Challenge Car. My abilities will be improved using your techniques as a guide, thanks.

Do you need assistance putting the body back on? Might be able to talk Daryl into a ride & visit.

Jim

[edwardb]

Paul,

Looks great. I hope to follow something similar for the Challenge Car. My abilities will be improved using your techniques as a guide, thanks.

Do you need assistance putting the body back on? Might be able to talk Daryl into a ride & visit.

Jim

Hey Jim. Thanks. My same buddy Greg is going to help put the body on. Probably this Tuesday. But you and Daryl are welcome to drop over any time. It will be out of the garage on Tuesday, Oct 1, however.

[shark92651]

Looks great! The roof turned out real nice.

[edwardb]

It’s been a busy week, but the build is back together and ready to take for paint next week. The good news is the various body parts all went back into place with alignment and gaps as I had them before. Had to tweak the bumpers just a bit on the back edge of the cowl, but that was it. Picked up my last batch of powder coated parts. Front lower splash panels, rear outside cockpit corners, and rear wheel well upper front fill pieces all permanently attached. Used some seam sealer to close up any remaining gaps or openings. There are just a handful of panels left. Front and rear splash guards, back hatch wall, and fuel filler cover. Those will go on after paint. Feels good to be putting so much together for the last time. Couple more details, and it will be ready to trailer over.

Took it off the lift, the Coyote fired right up, and backed out of the garage for a couple pics. If some of the exterior pictures look similar to ones posted before, that’s good! Nice to see the mostly finished interior inside the body. Tried to get a couple pics of the cockpit roof finish. To be honest, it’s a bit rougher than I wanted it to be. With more practice and improved technique, I’m sure it could be better. The best finish (e.g. smoothest) is the inside of the back wall of the body. Which will be completely hidden once the back hatch wall is installed. Go figure. But still happy I went that way versus trying to stick up the provided headliner material. One other thing I did was raise the ride height slightly. I just barely touched the underside of the chassis the last time I took it off the trailer. Probably can resolve by raising the nose of the trailer a bit. But for now just put a turn on each coilover. Enough talk. Pictures without further comment.















Next update and pictures should be with paint underway.

[Papa]

Looks great, Paul. Can't wait to see it wearing shiny new paint.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I like the roof treatment a lot Paul! I have a box with headliner for the Gen 3 I'm working on but I think it will just stay there---in the box---and we'll go with something like this. How is the mold panel alignment on your main body? This one is bad, really bad Not looking forward to it.

Jeff

[edwardb]

I like the roof treatment a lot Paul! I have a box with headliner for the Gen 3 I'm working on but I think it will just stay there---in the box---and we'll go with something like this. How is the mold panel alignment on your main body? This one is bad, really bad Not looking forward to it.

Jeff

Hey Jeff. Thanks. My first impressions of the body as a whole were mostly positive. In the end, I'm pleased that what I'm taking to the painter isn't bad either. Some work for them, but not terrible. Alignment and gaps turned out decent. The doors fit well and all the curves match quite well. The final product should be outstanding. But looking back quite a bit of work to get it there. Panel match on the main body was mostly OK. Worst spots are on each side behind the quarter window scoops. Will require some serious sanding (grinding) and filling by my painter. I didn't try to do anything there. In general, the parting lines were a little rough. After knocking them down a bit I picked out some clay and filled back with HSRF. You can see that in the pictures. But match isn't bad. Did have to do a little repair on the inside again in the area of the quarter windows. Those areas on both sides are definitely where some improvement is needed. The hood (cowl) in general was pretty good as far as the glass work although both wheel openings required a little bit of repair along the front edge at the bottom. I did some major clean-up on the inside, detailed a few posts ago. You may/may not want to bother with that. My biggest complaint with the cowl is that the wheel lips are not symmetrical side-to-side. I fought with it a long time before I discovered the right lip is about 1/2-inch further out than the left one. If you try to align the cowl strictly on the wheel well lips (e.g. measuring to a fixed point on the chassis) it will be off center in the front and the back edge and pontoons won't align properly. I see it when looking at the car because I know it's there. But most would never notice it. Just part of its character I guess. I'm pleased FF has apparently made some improvements to the Mk4 Roadster body. Something similar to that on the Gen 3 Coupe would make a great kit even better. This post sounds a little negative, and don't necessarily mean it to be. I love the car and can't wait for it to be done and start driving. But the body could be better.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...My biggest complaint with the cowl is that the wheel lips are not symmetrical side-to-side. I fought with it a long time before I discovered the right lip is about 1/2-inch further out than the left one...

Yeah, discovered that while doing the Coupe at SEMA last year.

...I'm pleased FF has apparently made some improvements to the Mk4 Roadster body...

I know what I've been told by Dave & Tony and we'll see soon enough; 25th Anniversary car #1 will be arriving here very shortly. But we digress---let's get back to your Coupe! Look forward to seeing bodywork updates!

Jeff