P100DHG Build Questions

[P100DHG]

Why? The factory front location is basically free space. From there the cable runs are short. Given the frame design, like the fuel and brake lines, if in the back the battery cable would have to come through the transmission tunnel which is already a bit congested. Not sure where you'd locate it in the back anyway. And FWIW, one of the very common mods for the Roadster is moving the battery to the front.

I know what you mean by free space. There is quite a bit up there, I would like to keep that area free for a few reasons. First is looks, I want my engine compartment free of clutter. I say that now but pulling that off is going to be very difficult with power steering and AC. But so far I've got almost everything concealed behind my panels I am making That’s my plan. It should look like a show car when I pop the hood and perform like a race car. The SBF takes up considerably less space than a coyote so that area will be very easy to see. So visually moving it to the back is favorable. Second is I want that airflow from that area to be free. The panels I made are going to block airflow and circulation so, I need to improve it. Lastly, The more weight I get to the rear wheels the more chance I have a 50/50 weight distribution.

I am just wondering if it’s best to setup the electrical and leave my wires long or it’s best to set my engine in and wire everything up afterwards.

[David Williamson]

The front battery mount location is fairly hidden down low behind the rad aluminum back wall. The hood only opens to about 30 degrees so the sight line to the engine is from the back. With IRS not sure where you can put the battery in the back that it would be out of sight. I have not scaled the Coupe but my Mkll is 46/54% front to back with a full gas tank and I guess the Coupe is similar. I had the engine in when I did the wiring. Some guys have put hood vents in to reduce under hood temperature, so far I have not had any temperature issues.
David W

[P100DHG]

For the pipe thread fittings that go into the back of the wilwood calipers and bottom of the reservoirs, I did not put sealant on them but i am reconsidering that decision before bleeding my brakes. I am getting a lot of misinformation. Wilwood said use Teflon tape, uhh.... FFR said loctite 567... and FFCars people are saying use nothing... any advice?

I bought this to have in hand
image.jpg

[edwardb]

For the pipe thread fittings that go into the back of the wilwood calipers and bottom of the reservoirs, I did not put sealant on them but i am reconsidering that decision before bleeding my brakes. I am getting a lot of misinformation. Wilwood said use Teflon tape, uhh.... FFR said loctite 567... and FFCars people are saying use nothing... any advice?

I bought this to have in hand
image.jpg

Start by putting the Teflon tape back in your tool box and save for home plumbing. Many, including me, don't recommend it for anything on your car build. Most especially anything related to the brakes. Technically, pipe thread fittings don't need sealant. The tapered threads are intended to provide the seal when properly tightened. Personally, I've still always used some sealant. Lubes the thread to help them seat properly, gives a little extra insurance, and if applied properly doesn't hurt a thing. I've used the Loctite 567. What I happen to have on hand right now, and used on my Coupe build, is Permatex 59214. Same as you pictured. There are others that would also be suitable. Those just happen to be the ones I've used.

[P100DHG]

Start by putting the Teflon tape back in your tool box and save for home plumbing. Many, including me, don't recommend it for anything on your car build. Most especially anything related to the brakes. Technically, pipe thread fittings don't need sealant. The tapered threads are intended to provide the seal when properly tightened. Personally, I've still always used some sealant. Lubes the thread to help them seat properly, gives a little extra insurance, and if applied properly doesn't hurt a thing. I've used the Loctite 567. What I happen to have on hand right now, and used on my Coupe build, is Permatex 59214. Same as you pictured. There are others that would also be suitable. Those just happen to be the ones I've used.

Yeah when wilwood said Teflon tape I was like that can’t be. Okay glad I got the right stuff. Everyone did say no sealant needed so... I’ll find out my fittings are very tight so I’ll report back if I have leaks or not. If so I’ll use some sealant and get back at it.

[edwardb]

...I’ll find out my fittings are very tight so I’ll report back if I have leaks or not. If so I’ll use some sealant and get back at it.

Maybe I wasn't clear in my post. I said I use sealant. I don't wait to find out if they leak. I use it up front to make sure they're seated and give some insurance. Much easier when dry and before you start the bleeding process.

[P100DHG]

Maybe I wasn't clear in my post. I said I use sealant. I don't wait to find out if they leak. I use it up front to make sure they're seated and give some insurance. Much easier when dry and before you start the bleeding process.

Roger that I went back this morning before work and put sealant on all my pipe thread connections. And I would recommend it as well.

[P100DHG]

I put my engine hoist together today. Is the chain installed correctly the directions don’t show how it should be installed....?

846AC531-2AC3-4334-BAA6-1E3735C26CA5.jpg CD6CFBD4-DF90-4200-A593-8D6C1E03586F.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

I put my engine hoist together today. Is the chain installed correctly the directions don’t show how it should be installed....?

That'll do.

Jeff

[Logan]

That is the correct way to connect the chain to the end of the hoist arm. However, a tip.... get the hook as close as possible to the hoist arm by putting that bolt through a link that is closer to the hook itself. Let the excess chain links hang down next to the hook. I use the first or second link in the chain (from the hook end). This helps you achieve maximum height with the hydraulic ram of the hoist doing the heavy lifting. Also less moment for the engine to swing and/or twist like with the current config.

[P100DHG]

That is the correct way to connect the chain to the end of the hoist arm. However, a tip.... get the hook as close as possible to the hoist arm by putting that bolt through a link that is closer to the hook itself. Let the excess chain links hang down next to the hook. I use the first or second link in the chain (from the hook end). This helps you achieve maximum height with the hydraulic ram of the hoist doing the heavy lifting. Also less moment for the engine to swing and/or twist like with the current config.

Fantastic suggestion I’ll adjust it

[P100DHG]

85F8A0AA-877C-4086-B326-DBCF8B669216.jpg

So pardon my confusion here cause I don’t have my driveshaft at my house. But imagine the drive shaft goes into this hole in the transmission. My hole is like 3/4” deep. I see a rubberized material with a spline pattern and a metal round plate... doesn’t look right to me... how is the driveshaft going to go into that.... I am seeing this all for the first time. Help!

[edwardb]

85F8A0AA-877C-4086-B326-DBCF8B669216.jpg

So pardon my confusion here cause I don’t have my driveshaft at my house. But imagine the drive shaft goes into this hole in the transmission. My hole is like 3/4” deep. I see a rubberized material with a spline pattern and a metal round plate... doesn’t look right to me... how is the driveshaft going to go into that.... I am seeing this all for the first time. Help!

There's a rubber donut in there from the factory. Needs to come out. I've purchased several Tremecs but the dealer always took it out before delivery to me. So I don't have personal experience. But have seen others talk about it. Apparently reach in there with needle nose pliers or whatever and pull it out. I've also heard it can be left in and pushed forward with your driveshaft. But don't quote me on that. There is another seal, the one with the rubber seal that extends out the back and goes around the outside of the slip yoke, that does stay in place.

[P100DHG]

I’m working on plumber and right now I’m working toward getting my AC and heater hoses plumbed behind the dash. I have read that when I crimp them they will shrink or stretch I can’t remember. I don’t want to have issues with them being too short or long... I can see a little hole in the crimp fitting so I can tell it’s touching but I cut mine to the exact length, I can always recut them. I have not crimped them. My question is 3 part.

image.jpg

1. does this look okay or should I cut my hoses longer in anticipation of shrinkage or shorter in anticipation of them stretching a little.

2. I bought the master cool AC hose crimped from Amazon. Has several different sizes. 8,10.... what size are the fittings here?

3. I have seen on TV that one should oil the O rings. What type of oil are they using?

Thanks

[edwardb]

I’m working on plumber and right now I’m working toward getting my AC and heater hoses plumbed behind the dash. I have read that when I crimp them they will shrink or stretch I can’t remember. I don’t want to have issues with them being too short or long... I can see a little hole in the crimp fitting so I can tell it’s touching but I cut mine to the exact length, I can always recut them. I have not crimped them. My question is 3 part.

image.jpg

1. does this look okay or should I cut my hoses longer in anticipation of shrinkage or shorter in anticipation of them stretching a little.

2. I bought the master cool AC hose crimped from Amazon. Has several different sizes. 8,10.... what size are the fittings here?

3. I have seen on TV that one should oil the O rings. What type of oil are they using?

Thanks

1. Those two short hoses are probably the hardest part of the installation, to be honest. The length on each has to be just right or it will be difficult/impossible to get together. To be honest, I don't remember if the hoses got shorter or longer when crimped. But what I can confirm is they definitely change, and if you don't take that into account you'll have trouble. Also the larger hose changes length different than the smaller one. My A-C kit came with a whole bag of extra fittings, and plenty of hose. So I practiced with fittings I didn't need. Helped to get used to the Mastercool crimper (easy) and to measure before and after with a micrometer and then took that into account when cutting the hoses. I recall it was around 1/8-inch, but don't quote me on that and check each hose size.

2. You'll use the #6 and #8 dies. Again, suggest practice as mentioned in #1.

3. The Factory Five kit includes a small white tube of compressor oil, and the Factory Five instructions show using that to lube the o-rings during assembly.

[P100DHG]

Very helpful Thanks Paul. One day I hope to shake your hand in person and thank you personally for all your wisdom, help and patience. Invaluable thank you sir.

My little white bottle came completely empty that must have been my confusion... I'll have to call vintage air.

I searched around and found the answer. It gets longer. I Found it in Jdavis500’s thread. So I’ll crimp one side then check for fit before I crimp the other side. Also thanks to Jdavis500 for this post.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post341829

[P100DHG]

Is there a way to get a horn button to work? I am trying to think of how it could be wired without seeing wires tied to the steering wheel. I am using the Ross Thompson turn signal however I would like a traditional horn button.

[P100DHG]

I am mocking up the wiring harness in my car. I am trying to run all wires down low to avoid seeing them. The wire to my alternator isn't long enough to snake its way around the engine and up to the alternator (if I run it high it is long enough but looks unsightly. Is there a quick way to identify a wire's gauge so I can order more. The wires don't seem to be labeled with their sizes on the sheath. FFR is closed understandably so, so any help would be great.

[edwardb]

I am mocking up the wiring harness in my car. I am trying to run all wires down low to avoid seeing them. The wire to my alternator isn't long enough to snake its way around the engine and up to the alternator (if I run it high it is long enough but looks unsightly. Is there a quick way to identify a wire's gauge so I can order more. The wires don't seem to be labeled with their sizes on the sheath. FFR is closed understandably so, so any help would be great.

According to my records and previous measuring, the alternator wires in the Ron Francis harness are 8 gauge. I've seen some argue it's not heavy enough. But I've used it (as have many others) without issue. I don't know any easy ways to identify wire gauges, unless it's in a package and then I read the label () but I've used this from DelCity.net website multiple times. You count the leads and measure one of them with a good micrometer.

Gauge = Conductor Stranding
20 Gauge = 7/0.0126
(7 strands that measure .0126 each)
18 Gauge = 16/0.010
16 Gauge = 19/0.0112
14 Gauge = 19/0.0140
12 Gauge = 19/0.0177
10 Gauge = 19/0.0223
8 Gauge = 19/0.0281

[P100DHG]

According to my records and previous measuring, the alternator wires in the Ron Francis harness are 8 gauge. I've seen some argue it's not heavy enough. But I've used it (as have many others) without issue. I don't know any easy ways to identify wire gauges, unless it's in a package and then I read the label () but I've used this from DelCity.net website multiple times. You count the leads and measure one of them with a good micrometer.

Gauge = Conductor Stranding
20 Gauge = 7/0.0126
(7 strands that measure .0126 each)
18 Gauge = 16/0.010
16 Gauge = 19/0.0112
14 Gauge = 19/0.0140
12 Gauge = 19/0.0177
10 Gauge = 19/0.0223
8 Gauge = 19/0.0281

Wow that's an impressive and really important table! Always appreciated. Glad to see you are still watching over me despite being done with your build! Guardian angel 0:-)

Thank you!

[Automan]

Wow that's an impressive and really important table! Always appreciated. Glad to see you are still watching over me despite being done with your build! Guardian angel 0:-)

Thank you!

Very Well Said. He is watching over all of our builds. So much appreciated Paul

thankyou
Nelson

[edwardb]

Wow that's an impressive and really important table! Always appreciated. Glad to see you are still watching over me despite being done with your build! Guardian angel 0:-)

Thank you!

Very Well Said. He is watching over all of our builds. So much appreciated Paul

thankyou
Nelson

Thanks guys. I'm enjoying watching your builds and happy to share what I've learned during mine. If it helps.

[P100DHG]

What do you guys think of a belly pan. It would give a nice finished appearance from underneath. This is the last thing I’d do on my build and I’d need a lift to do it. Probably would require a transmission cooler? That might make it not worth the effort. Thoughts?

[q4stix]

I'm planning to do one on mine. I'll add a few NACA ducts to help with cooling and then have a way to vent near the rear.

[P100DHG]

I need help designing a full EVAP system. I just hate the smell of gasoline. My garage stinks. I bought a bronco charcoal canister and hooked it up to the vent and it helped for 10 days I didn’t smell gas at all. But now that the canister is saturated it’s smells again. Not as bad but it smells. I have absolutely no leaks. I duct taped the filler neck and I can smell it coming from there If I put my nose up to it so that could be it but I am thinking I want an EVAP system so it eliminates the smell completely. Because it was gone for 10 days when the charcoal filter was new. Can you guys help?

This is what I bought

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a smaller quarter-inch line plugged the vent plumbed into the 5/16 port on the canister which I think is really 3/8 but it fit over it barely and the two larger ports open to the outside air

Other fixes welcome to

[Erik W. Treves]

I am wondering if your tune is off? Have you checked to see how rich your idle is?

[P100DHG]

I am wondering if your tune is off? Have you checked to see how rich your idle is?

Well yes because I ran the car without the O2 sensor is this my problem? So it was rich for sure

[Erik W. Treves]

I am trying to remember your induction setup - If you are running EFI without the O2's then , yes this is a problem. If you are not running EFI and running carb and haven't tuned the IDLE and are rich or super lean you will get that fuel stink smell in the garage... sometimes it can be really bad. If you have extra fuel going into the manifold it can pool in the intake and/ exhaust... then when you shut the car off the car will continue to out gas hours later.... ever spill a little gas on the floor and have to open windows to get the stink out? The same thing can actually happen if you are too lean - you can get lean misfire causing unspent fuel in the exhaust... I have found, a really complete idle will have water vapor at times coming from the pipes.

[P100DHG]

Problem solved. I installed the filler neck and gas cap and the odor is gone. I guess putting duct tape over the filler neck just isn’t the same. I feel kind of dumb. So learn from my dumbness once again. Lol. As of posting this I don’t think a full EVAP system is necessary. Just a charcoal filter will do. But time will tell

[P100DHG]

2 questions

Before I cut anything I need some advice on my fuel filler neck....

4A23EFBF-B4A3-426B-BFBA-A70D8DAEE421.jpg

This doesn’t seem right. I could use some advise before I make a mistake cutting too much or the wrong side or something


2. Reverse light recommendations? FFR confirmed no matching reverse light but I need something for safety. I am opting out of a third brake light but I think it’s important people know what direction a car is going in a parking lot.

[edwardb]

1. I can't tell exactly what your picture is showing. I cut and installed mine exactly like the manual showed. Final looked like page 485 in my manual. The one minor issue I had with mine was the cutout in the hatch side aluminum contacted the bottom of the rubber tube attached to the cap. I extended the cutout down so they weren't touching. That was enough that the cover for the inside now also had to be lowered. So added some pieces around the top of the cover to it sealed against the inside of the body.

2. Your TKO has a reverse light switch. Normally open, but closed when in reverse. The T-56 in mine is exactly the same. I added a power wire to the rear harness for the backup lights. Used the radio circuit since I don't have a radio. It's an ignition circuit so only powered with the key on. Normal for backup lights. The added wiring goes through the switch in the trans and back to the positive side of the light(s). Wired the ground(s) to the chassis at the back. Reverse closes the circuit and lights the lights. Pretty simple.

[P100DHG]

1. I can't tell exactly what your picture is showing. I cut and installed mine exactly like the manual showed. Final looked like page 485 in my manual. The one minor issue I had with mine was the cutout in the hatch side aluminum contacted the bottom of the rubber tube attached to the cap. I extended the cutout down so they weren't touching. That was enough that the cover for the inside now also had to be lowered. So added some pieces around the top of the cover to it sealed against the inside of the body.

2. Your TKO has a reverse light switch. Normally open, but closed when in reverse. The T-56 in mine is exactly the same. I added a power wire to the rear harness for the backup lights. Used the radio circuit since I don't have a radio. It's an ignition circuit so only powered with the key on. Normal for backup lights. The added wiring goes through the switch in the trans and back to the positive side of the light(s). Wired the ground(s) to the chassis at the back. Reverse closes the circuit and lights the lights. Pretty simple.

1. Okay I looked for like an hour for that and somehow I miss it... so sad and embarrassing. Many thanks for pointing that out. Also just to add to my embarrassment it took me more time to look for, email FFR, post on the forum after not understanding the email then it did to do, which took 5 minutes... argh.

2. Sorry I wasn’t clear I was wondering if there was a particular part you guys like as a backup light/lamp

[edwardb]

1. Okay I looked for like an hour for that and somehow I miss it... so sad and embarrassing. Many thanks for pointing that out. Also just to add to my embarrassment it took me more time to look for, email FFR, post on the forum after not understanding the email then it did to do, which took 5 minutes... argh.

2. Sorry I wasn’t clear I was wondering if there was a particular part you guys like as a backup light/lamp

Yeah, the filler tube instructions are spread around in several places. Glad you got it worked out. For the backup lights, I used these: https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...marker-lights/. They're Maxxima brand (decent) but don't know the part number. https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8?t=19. Lots of other choices. I don't know that there's any particular one. Just whatever the build chooses.

[P100DHG]

Yeah, the filler tube instructions are spread around in several places. Glad you got it worked out. For the backup lights, I used these: https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...marker-lights/. They're Maxxima brand (decent) but don't know the part number. https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8?t=19. Lots of other choices. I don't know that there's any particular one. Just whatever the build chooses.

I am going to try these from eBay - click here for eBay listing

It took me hours to find them I just got lucky I had given up and then just stumbled on them. I can’t replicate the search without the exact title in eBay (Google doesn’t bring them up) so my suggestion is just click the link above if you want to take the plunge. If they are good I’ll let people know. I don’t have the FFR lights at home but these are so cheap I thought I’d pull the trigger and assume the size was similar enough. I did measure off the template in the manual and they are close. The number of wires slightly concerns me that they will light up red... but it says back up light in the title so I’m hoping they are white. I’ll report back.

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[P100DHG]

Update FFR rear lights are 3” so these are slightly smaller but I think they might be passable and certainly safe at this price if it doesn’t work out

[P100DHG]

Seller got back to me the lenses are clear and the lights are white. I'll know in a month when they get here but, if you can't wait $10 is worth the risk I'd say. They could also look and work like trash so let's see.

[P100DHG]

Any good suggestions for a cup holder? I might be completely delirious thinking I’d be able to drink a latte and drive this car but I’m curious what people have used.

[P100DHG]

I have a question regarding the headliner. Can this be installed after the body is put on the car? My upholstery guy is telling me it can’t be done. Roll bar will prevent a well executed job. I just saw it done on Motortrend so I’m somewhat doubting him.

He proposes I take the painted body, load it into a uHaul, bring it to him, let him do it then bring it back to the painter to have it fitted on the car. I’m like are you kidding me what a massive pain in the *** and at the risk of screwing up the paint. I told him to go down to Jeff’s but he won’t drive 90 miles to the body.

I thought about calling a mobile headliner guy and send him to Jeff’s place and just order the matching leather and have it ready for him to install...

Need help with some advice on how to manage this situation. If it can be done after body is installed?

Just to say this situation with the headliner is making me a little nervous not having a clear direction.

[David Williamson]

I put my head liner in with the body off before paint but the taping for the paint did mess up some of the edges. I know some have put it in with the body on but it is not easy to do and get it smooth. My car was painted with the body on.
David W