You are getting really close for sure.
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I got to see this truck first hand last week - Wow, I am inspired, what a good looking build with lots of nifty custom touches
Congrats. And thanks for your generous hospatality
Got my Florida title and tag yesterday, and had first drive today. Just a few minor bugs to work out then we're finished.
How I got titled in Florida:
I went to my local tax assessor's office and followed DMV procedure TL-48. https://www3.flhsmv.gov/dmv/Proc/tl/tl-48.pdf
Register it as a REPLICA, not a Kit Car. Very important. No inspection is required. Only documents you need are the Certificate of Origin from Factory Five, DMV Form 82040, Insurance Card, and an invoice to pay sales tax on. Nothing else. They will use the Factory Five VIN that's listed on the COO. They even listed my weight as 1000 lb. I was in and out in 20 minutes. One note: "Factory Five Racing" is not in their database, but "FFR" is. BE sure to tell them if they can't find it.
I forgot one thing: you need form 82042 and have a police officer come to you house to verify the VIN before you go to get title.
https://www.flhsmv.gov/pdf/forms/82042.pdf
Last edited by DamnYankee; 12-20-2019 at 01:26 PM.
First drive today.
Took kit delivery 2/10/19.
Titled and tagged 12/16/19.
Color is Matte Gray.
Power is 495hp LS3 with T-56 6-speed manual.
Drives arrow straight, and much smoother than my Cobra.
Dakota Digital dash cluster, Electric door poppers, wipers, electric E-Brake, Wilwood brakes, flush taillights, Heat/AC.
Aluminum bed by Smokeys Rod Shop: https://www.smokeyroadrodshop.com/
Front wheels 18x8.5
Rear wheels 20x10.5
BTW, I did all the bodywork and primer. First time I've done that, can't say it was enjoyable. My buddy shot the final color and matte clear.
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Last edited by DamnYankee; 12-18-2019 at 09:04 AM.
Which invoice was required? Kit or everything?
FFR 35 p/u # 0014
I used to think I needed a Rolex watch, now I’d be happier with a Swedish K!
Nice job . Congrats. It looks great thanks for sharing the pics.
FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600
Very impressive! Wipers are nicely done and I like those taillights.
Congratulations. That truck bed is a show stopper. Love it.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Where did you get the wipers? Happy with them.
Ralph
See here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post371373
They work fine in the garage, haven't been in rain yet but I'm sure they'll do the job.
Yankee, thanks. I apologize for asking when I could have looked at your build thread, and seen your excellent description.
Just curious as to the wiper blades choices that Speciality offers. Straight vs curved, pros and cons? Not sure which way I would go.
Great build. Ralph
I went with the straight stainless arms. These make the wipers park horizontal to the shaft, so they rest on the fiberglass below the windshield. I'm guessing the angled arms would let the wipers rest on the glass, which may be ok too. Depends what look you want I suppose.
Covered storage space is lacking in my truck. So picked up this toolbox from Lowes and installed in the bed. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-4...Box/1000615251
Gives me storage for 2 chairs and a soft cooler for a car show. Or can fit 2 gym bags with clothes for overnight trips. Not huge, but fits in the bed perfectly. And watertight. $209. Also available in bright aluminum.
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Congrats! Great job! Love the bed
Just turned 1000 miles on my truck. I've done a few tweaks to make it more comfortable since the first drive:
I'm only 5'6" but I'm still kinda tight in the cab and my knees are bent up a little when on the pedals. So I adjusted the pedals down closer to the floor to get more leg room. For brake pedal was simply turning the MC shaft. For clutch I had to go to a bigger MC (7/8") to get a shorter throw, then adjust the shaft. For gas pedal I had to cut and weld the arm at the pedal to get it lower.
I had an AC leak somewhere and had to run a dye test. Pulled dashboard out and found that one of the hoses to the evaporator was crimped wrong at NAPA and split a fitting. So I replaced both hoses. And AC is ice cold now.
While I had the dash out decided to add cruise control. Since I had drive-by-wire throttle this was supposed to be plug and play. Well 4 days later I finally got it working, and its great.
Added cup holder and phone holder on the trans tunnel.
Added buttons on door jambs so interior lights come on when doors open up. Subtle but nice feature.
I will be driving the truck from south Florida to the FFR Open House in June with several stops along the way and back.
Cheers !
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Car show season in full bore in Florida. Having fun..
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Last edited by DamnYankee; 03-08-2020 at 10:38 AM.
Impressive! When you have time, please post details on that cruise control install.
Nice! Cool trophies!!!
I purchased this Cruise Control unit: https://www.thecruisecontrolstore.co...e-etc-engines/
This unit is made by Rostra, which is the same unit that Dakota Digital puts their name on. Tech support from Michael was needed, and great.
I mounted the module behind the dash. There are connections to the clutch and brake switches so the cruise will disengage when pedals are depressed. With the LED taillights I needed to add a relay off the brake switch to the module.
There's a VSS connection to get the speedometer pulses. This got tricky for me because of my setup. I'm using a Dakota Digital gauge cluster with a BIM module that allows the cluster to plug into the OBD connector to talk to all the engine sensors. Because of the BIM module the VSS output from the gauge module is disabled. With my T-56 transmission I'm using the harness from Bowler Transmissions which provides outputs for the speedometer and reverse lockout relay. And another unused output can be used for a cruise control VSS signal. The transmission module is Bluetooth programmable to change the pulse counts. I had to set the pulse count to 2 for the cruise control and it worked perfect.
I can provide more details if you decide to install it.
I didn't notice before that you ran your tailgate inside the bed side panels. Interesting concept. Mine will be in-operable also, but still have it outside the sides.
Looking good.
Ralph
Thanks for posting that on the cruise control. I have seen that unit but the install was a bit of a mystery. Glad to know that they have a satisfied customer. My only decision will be to tackle it on the initial build or add it later.
Ron, congrats on getting your build finished and racking up the miles! Can I ask you about the oil pan you used on your LS? Based on what you posted I ordered the same parts, the pan I received is missing one attach point hole being drilled and I wanted to see if your pan was also missing the same hole. The second mounting point forward of the oil filter mount is not drilled, yet the gasket has a provision for a hole as does the engine block.
Thanks in advance, Gary
I seem to remember that one hole was missing in mine too. No leaks, works fine.
If you do a Google search on it, you'll see that some people say to drill a hole in the pan, and some say not to drill it. I did not.
Last edited by DamnYankee; 03-18-2020 at 07:40 AM.
Finally got my license plate, only took 10 weeks. Factory Five sells the carbon fiber frame.
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Also, found a car cover that fits well. Its for a Subaru Brat !! https://www.carcover.com/gold-shield...-long-bed.html
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Last edited by DamnYankee; 03-18-2020 at 07:52 PM.
Ron, thanks for putting my mind at ease about the missing hole on the oil pan. I have to ask: how the heck to you figure out that a Subaru Brat cover would fit our trucks?
Gary
Just compared dimensions of small vehicles till I found something close.
Congrat's on finishing and reaching 1000 miles, and congrat's on the trophie!
Nice job...bed is really cool
I am struggling with my fuel lines. I am starting to follow the path your on. Did you fabricate all this braided hoses? If you bought them, from whom? If fabricated where did you get the parts and whose tool did you use to crimp the fittings to the hoses?
Chuck,
Got all my parts from Summit. Made up the braided hoses myself.
I'm running an LS motor, so used external fuel pump and combination filter/regulator mounted over the gas tank. This type regulator allows for short return line back to the tank. If you are running a carburetor it's not needed.
I used flexible aluminum tubing for the fuel line: SUM-G2538
Used these tube adapters, 1 at each end of the aluminum tube: EAR-AT165006ERL
Used 1 push on fitting: RUS-641303
Used 1 quick connect fitting: RUS-644123
Used this braided hose: SUM-220984
Used 1 90 degree fitting: SUM-250687
Used 9 straight fittings: SUM-250690
There's no crimping of fittings. They basically screw together using normal tools. Here's a good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vYpIaf75UI
To cut the braided line I bought a big snip at Harbor Freight.
Made an overhead console to mount the speakers. I originally had the speakers mounted behind the seats but sounded too muffled. Much better now.
Console is screwed to the underside of the rollbar hoop.
Sprayed with Flock.
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Picked up 49 Chevy this week.
I'm ready for when we go Mad Max mode in a another week or two !!
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Nice collection!!!
Nice collection. What did you use for a frame on your bug?
I made the frame from 2x3 tubing. Front has straight axle with transverse leaf (from a T-Bucket), rear has coil overs with Ford 8.8 rear.
Chevy 350 with TH-350.
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Last edited by DamnYankee; 05-03-2020 at 09:00 AM.