Wilwood Clutch Pedal Travel

[kcarlasc]

So my car is complete but clutch is at the very top make driving it a little sucky since it engages so high.

Is there any adjustment on the WilWood pedals for travel? I could not find anything... Thinging about just adding a pedal stop to the floor to help with the travel.

[Hobby Racer]

The Wilwood pedals are completely adjustable. If you want to lower the pedal, loosen the jam nut on the actuation rod and screw it in until its where you like it and then tighten the jam nut. If you run out of adjustment you may need to cut the rod down a bit. I had to do that on my Wilwood pedals to get them where I liked them.

[DSR-3]

I think a separate stop is the answer, and it's on my list too!

[kcarlasc]

Thanks guys..

I will take a look at the adjustment not sure how easy it will be to get to now...

[Hobby Racer]

I think a separate stop is the answer, and it's on my list too!

I actually just finished putting a stop on my clutch pedal as well. It limits the amount of travel to just the amount needed to disengage the clutch, allowing for quicker shifts!

[kcarlasc]

Any Pics?

I actually just finished putting a stop on my clutch pedal as well. It limits the amount of travel to just the amount needed to disengage the clutch, allowing for quicker shifts!

[DSR-3]

No doubt it's nicely done so yea, any pic's?
I'll admit that a test with a 2x4 was a good start...

Any Pics?

[Hobby Racer]

Here are some pics for you guys. I used an elevator bolt for the stop post, you know the ones that are on the legs of tables and benches to level them. I put a rivnut into the cross beam and lock the bolt in place with a jam nut, works great.

IMG_20200414_170859861.jpg IMG_20200414_170922480.jpg IMG_20200414_170941453.jpg

[kcarlasc]

Well.. that didn't go well. Found the adjustment and the rod must have been crossed threaded some cause it snapped... now I need a new MC and the piece on the pedal... wonderful

[grabera7]

Here are some pics for you guys. I used an elevator bolt for the stop post, you know the ones that are on the legs of tables and benches to level them. I put a rivnut into the cross beam and lock the bolt in place with a jam nut, works great.

IMG_20200414_170859861.jpg IMG_20200414_170922480.jpg IMG_20200414_170941453.jpg

Hobby, do you have a measurement of the clutch/brake pedals to firewall? I'm trying to figure out the right amount of rod to cut off from the master cylinders. Or if you know how much you cut off the rod that'd work too.

[Hobby Racer]

Hobby, do you have a measurement of the clutch/brake pedals to firewall? I'm trying to figure out the right amount of rod to cut off from the master cylinders. Or if you know how much you cut off the rod that'd work too.

I can measure for you but honestly your better off cutting the rods down a 1/4" at a time and test fitting them as you go. I know its more work but every setup is a bit different, especially since each person likes their pedals at a different height based on seating position and leg length.

[grabera7]

I can measure for you but honestly your better off cutting the rods down a 1/4" at a time and test fitting them as you go. I know its more work but every setup is a bit different, especially since each person likes their pedals at a different height based on seating position and leg length.

Got it! I’ll just do that then.

[jforand]

Grabera7, Hobby is going to be spot on with the differences in setups here. One huge factory is going to be the size of the master cylinder piston. That will greatly affect the amount of fluid pushed for a given pedal travel. The same will be true on the slave cylinder side as well. I am all mounted up but will need it fully plumbed and bled to determine exactly how to push them as far forward as possible. I also want the clutch and brake to be at the same height so the clutch travel is going to be the limiting factor. I'm not cutting anything until I get a direct measurement on the travel required for proper disengagement. FYI, I plan to run a 3/4" MC piston and the stock OEM slave cylinder. Others have done this very thing and reported that the stop is necessary as they over extend the slave and blow it apart. I think my preferred method is going to be using the firewall as the stop and dialing the pedals down so there is just enough travel plus a little margin before the pedal bottoms to sheet metal.

[Mitch Wright]

I cut my rods down a 1/2 inch and installed a pedal stop for the clutch using a 3/4 master's.