Beautiful job with that! The ducting is probably going to get soft with any heat, but the metal bands in it (I assume they are metal) will help it keep its shape.
Nice setup. Anxious to know the performance as I would do something like this to cool my trans. Wondering if those side cutouts flow enough air for either task, yours or mine. I know some others setup stuff on the cutouts but don't recall any final reports - great / marginal (fan fixed?) / flopped...
Wondering if those side cutouts flow enough air for either task, yours or mine. I know some others setup stuff on the cutouts but don't recall any final reports - great / marginal (fan fixed?) / flopped...
If you recall my side vents are quite a bit larger than factory. I expanded them 1.5" and removed all the inside material to maximize their effect. I will definitely give a full report when I return from the track. I will have data logs on the temps to share as well.
You are making me feel inadequate. I've spent the last two weeks working on an old craftsman drill press and a diehl bench grinder. Actually, it would be a huge help to me if anyone here had any information about the vintage of the drill press. I think it is newer than 100 or 150, but still pretty old, maybe 70s or 80s. I've spent two hours looking through pictures of "old craftsman drill press" today trying to figure out how to tighten the motor belt, and only found a single picture that matched this one.
It was probably grey originally, hard to tell there was so much grim on it. After I wired wheeled it I powder coated it blue and black (craftsman red makes me think of harbor freight tools).
I completed the transmission cooler ducting that grabs air from the driver's side vent and forces it through the transmission cooler. I trimmed the short ends of the fiberglass duct so that the long edges seal up against the cooler body forming a tight seal. The end caps are short and only need a small piece of foam to completely seal the edges. I made two small aluminum brackets to affix the duct to the cooler mount and then routed the hose.
I ended up using a 4" hose made for dust collection systems in a wood shop. I'm not sure about it's heat rating but it is not real close to anything hot, fingers crossed that it holds up. If it doesn't I'll have to use automotive silicone hose, but that's $$$.
Until I get a chance to take the body off again and mold a nice piece to fit the driver's vent, I made an aluminum arm that holds the hose end in place just inside the side vent. That should suffice for now.
Well, my track days turned out to be a bust. I didn't even get a single full lap in
The issue is that the ECU loses sync with the crank sensor at anything above 4700 rpm. When that happens the motor hiccups, farts and shuts down until the rpm's drop and it can reacquire sync with the crankshaft. I didn't have the equipment needed to do a deep dive on the wiring at the track so I packed it in.
Now I have to rip out all the interior and trace the crank sensor wire back to the engine and find out why this is happening. My guess is that when I rewired the car this winter and extended all the wires, I put the crank sensor wire next to a wire that is electrically noisy and when they all got tightly wrapped together, some noise is jumping into the crank sensor wire. Now I have to unwrap and pull out all the wires to isolate the crank sensor wire to figure this out.
It ran fine in my garage before the event since I never revved it that high. Lesson learned, test the full rpm band BEFORE going to the track. It's tough with a track only car since you can't legally drive it on the road to work out all these issue ahead of time.
So, no data on the swivel oil pickup and no data on the transmission cooler and duct setup until mid August when I have another event.
Last edited by Hobby Racer; 07-16-2020 at 03:21 PM.
I would run a shielded crank sensor wire end to end, outside the existing harness and see if it is a fix, then do whatever to the wire bundle after you figure it out. Save tearing the bundle down first if at all possible.
I would run a shielded crank sensor wire end to end, outside the existing harness and see if it is a fix, then do whatever to the wire bundle after you figure it out. Save tearing the bundle down first if at all possible.
I thought of doing that but I don't have a spare shielded wire to test with Maybe I'll see if I can put a scope on the signal to ensure it is a noise issue first. As it stands now I'm just guessing based on the data logs from the ECU.
Nice mill! Makes mine look like a toy, but I generally make small things so it works out well. If I could suggest something (which involves you spending some money), get a DRO (Digital Read Out) for the mill. It is one of those things that when you get it you wish you had done it sooner. Takes using the mill to a new level of convenience and makes it easier to perform precision operations.
Nice mill! Makes mine look like a toy, but I generally make small things so it works out well. If I could suggest something (which involves you spending some money), get a DRO (Digital Read Out) for the mill. It is one of those things that when you get it you wish you had done it sooner. Takes using the mill to a new level of convenience and makes it easier to perform precision operations.
Rick
Already have one! I just need to get it hooked up properly. The readout is maybe 20 years old but the scales are quality glass scales. I am trying to find the wiring pin-outs for the scales so I can buy a newer DRO readout and connect it to my glass scales but I am having a tough time finding the specs.
Oh I hate those issues! I understand so much the situation you're in.
Is it possible you made a mistake on your wire extension, like bad crimping or bad soldering?
As for not legally driving the car on the road, there is a fix not too far from NY and it's called IN. lolll Actually Art is there! Gives you an excuse to move and register the car there.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
Electrical sensor gremlins. UGH. You're sure it's not a bad sensor? Or the sensor is not held down tight?
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
In chasing down the issue that prevented my car from revving past 4700 rpm, I ended up taking the car down to this state. Ripped out the interior, the wiring, unwrapped the harness etc.. Just to find out that all it needed was a resistor added to the crank trigger sensor. Apparently by extending the wiring harness this winter I changed the electrical pulse just enough that the ECU could no longer lock onto the crank signal past 4700 rpm. Adding a resistor across the sensor leads stabilized it enough so the ECU can maintain a signal lock up through red-line now.
Custom engine swaps and aftermarket ECU's can be a serious challenge
Custom engine swaps and aftermarket ECU's can be a serious challenge
TELL ME ABOUT IT, MAN!!!! And that issue is just the tip of the iceberg in what's possible to happen...
Your interior is VERY VERY clean for a race car. Too clean... what gives? loll
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
Wow great!! You managed to fix a very weird issue quite quickly! I wish I would be you.
But why wait eng of Aug? There is no possibility to go there before, or somewhere else?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
I ran two full days at Watkins Glen, basically the first real driving I've done this year
The oil pump swing-arm is a complete success! I logged oil pressures and saw no drop in pressure during hard corning or hard braking like I saw last year.
Last edited by Hobby Racer; 08-26-2020 at 08:11 PM.
The transmission cooler with the forced air ducting worked excellent. Two days of racing and the oil temps never got over 195F! That is the actual fluid temp and not the case temp.
Last edited by Hobby Racer; 08-26-2020 at 08:11 PM.
I knew the swingarm pickup would work. It’s an interim step between the oem pickup and a dry sump system. Now somebody’s got to break the news to Gator. He didn’t give it much sway.
I knew the swingarm pickup would work. It’s an interim step between the oem pickup and a dry sump system. Now somebody’s got to break the news to Gator. He didn’t give it much sway.
LOL! I've been hoping it would work in his H6 because I want to run an NA EZ36 too! But I do still have my doubts that on a long carousel turn or a high banked turn that this will work. It sure is a simpler and less expensive solution. I'd be tempted to add some sort of a scavenge pump to the heads with a feed back into the upper oil pan as insurance. No tank, just straight back to the upper pan.
I see that IAG has made a copy of the Cosworth baffle plate with flaps with one key difference, it doesn't sandwich between the pan and block, it bolts to the block with a slight clearance around the edges inside the pan so oil can run off the sides into the pan. And it has little scoops to grab the oil sliding across the top of the plate and directs it down into the pan. I'm not sure if that idea could work with the EZ36 or not.
OK Hobby get to work producing a few more, I'll be first up to buy one!
Last edited by Sgt.Gator; 08-27-2020 at 02:50 AM.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Good News on the trans cooler. Mine is in also, waiting for September 11. We have a similar set-up, but I put a tee after the intercooler and am running water through mine.
OK Hobby get to work producing a few more, I'll be first up to buy one!
The swivel pickup is quite easy to make. The pan modifications were more involved. If you need one just drop me a line and I can fabricate one up for you.
Great news on the success of your pickup project, congratulations!
I've seen the swing design work on motorcycle engine installs in cars too.
I hope to need one someday... 'Hating having my car torn down for paint & work, and I need some social distancing!
Have fun on your track days- jealous!
But I do still have my doubts that on a long carousel turn or a high banked turn that this will work. It sure is a simpler and less expensive solution.
I'm still going threw the telemetry data but I thought I'd share this. In turn 6 "the carousel" at Watkins Glen I pull 1.5g for a bit more than 10 seconds. I think that qualifies as a long sweeper!
Hobby: Out of curiosity. What tires are you running? 1.5g is a strong number. Were you on the ragged edge?
That was on Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec. An extreme performance street tire, not even a D.O.T. slick! Secret is that turn 6 at Watkins Glen has 10 degrees of banking
I'll have to look through the data and find a flat corner to get a true lateral G number for comparison.
Glad to hear of the oil pick up success, FUN. I would guess on a slick you will see 1.6-1.7+ in the Carousel.
Impressive numbers on the Dunlaps, those are 200tw aren't they? On BFG R1 DOT slicks here at NCM at long sweeping T5, T15 and 16 and the sink hole we would see 1.4-1.6 with 2* banking or less.
Glad to hear of the oil pick up success, FUN. I would guess on a slick you will see 1.6-1.7+ in the Carousel.
Impressive numbers on the Dunlaps, those are 200tw aren't they? On BFG R1 DOT slicks here at NCM at long sweeping T5, T15 and 16 and the sink hole we would see 1.4-1.6 with 2* banking or less.
Yes, they are 200tw, but very grippy. I have a set of Hoosier A7's mounted on custom sized Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 wheels that I have not tried yet.
What have you done for block/head/venting/PCV/Catch Can setup?
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
What have you done for block/head/venting/PCV/Catch Can setup?
Nothing special. The EZ36 only has a vent and PCV on one cylinder bank, the drivers side. I run an open crank case with the OEM vent and PCV running into a 1 qt. catch can that is open to atmosphere via a foam breather. I get about a 1-2 tablespoons of oil in it during a 30 min track session. I only empty the can after an entire weekend of driving.
Nothing special. The EZ36 only has a vent and PCV on one cylinder bank, the drivers side. I run an open crank case with the OEM vent and PCV running into a 1 qt. catch can that is open to atmosphere via a foam breather. I get about a 1-2 tablespoons of oil in it during a 30 min track session. I only empty the can after an entire weekend of driving.
That's remarkable! Must be the difference between an NA engine and a turbo boosted engine blowby.
You may find this NA EZ36 Dyno of interest. Usually they are always a turbo or supercharged EZ 30-36, but this one in NA. By our iWire vendor, iWire's 6 Cylinder Subaru Tune Day with Dyno Pulls:
The 3.6 was just a bit more than WRX? I was expecting close to 300hp, so at least 250whp.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
The 3.6 was just a bit more than WRX? I was expecting close to 300hp, so at least 250whp.
A 2007 WRX was only 224 hp at the crank, so about 190 whp. The 3.6 is rated at 254 hp at the crank and about 220 whp. That's 30 more hp than the turbo EJ255 engines.
And that's naturally aspirated on 87 octane, not bad I think.
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Originally Posted by aquillen
