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Thread: Project Wildcard #1209

  1. #1
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    Project Wildcard #1209

    We took the 25 minute ride to Factory Five today and picked up our kit. I guess that means it's time to start the build thread!
    Here are the build specs:

    FFR:
    Chassis #1209
    33 Hot Rod Gen 2
    Uncoated Chassis
    Configured for 351w and AOD Transmission
    Leather Roadster Seats
    33 Grill (Roadster, no hood, side covers)
    Soft Top
    3-Link Rear Suspension Upgrade
    Rear Spreader Polished Stainless Steel Exhaust
    Heat/Sound Insulation
    Electric Power Assist Steering
    Chrome Tilt Steering Column
    Brushed Aluminum Interior Door Handles
    Brushed Aluminum Trunk Handle
    Floor Mats
    2 Piece Forged Bonneville Style Wheels 18x9 and 20x11
    Mickey Thompson 245/45/R18 and 305/35/R20 Tires

    Parts from Other Vendors:
    Ford 8.8 Rear with 31 Spline Axles and Trac-Lok - Forte
    QA1 Proma Star Adjustable Coilovers all around - Innovative Rodding
    Bumpsteer Kit - Kootenai Valley Customs (KVC)
    Trunk Gas Strut Kit - KVC
    Trunk Lid Adjuster - KVC
    Trunk Bulkhead Tube - KVC
    Steering Bearing Seal Kit - KVC
    Delrin Bushings - KVC
    Matching Gas Pedal - KVC
    Fan Shroud - Mike Everson
    Inner Firewall - Mike Everson

    Engine Tentative:
    1969 351w bored/stroked to 393.
    AOD Transmission


    Thanks for following!
    Sean and Liam


    109928601_10218371929030393_212724123675417290_o.jpg116117950_10218374212767485_2077552412107692923_o.jpg116002212_10218374213287498_3162839114206916463_o.jpg109829277_10218374213487503_1830372485689493792_o.jpg115735231_10218374212967490_5805765595705890687_o.jpg
    Last edited by shmelty; 08-22-2020 at 05:34 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Gen 2 Roadster #1209, 33 Grill, 3-Link Rear Suspension, Leather Roadster Seats, Electric Assist Steering, Rear Exhaust, 2 Piece FFR Bonneville Wheels (18x9/20x11) Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires (255/45/R18 and 305/35/R20), '69 Ford 351w (Stroked to 393. All Forged), AOD, 8.8 31 Spline Rear with Trac-Lok, QA1 PromaStars (Front 9" 220lb/Rear 12" 200lb Springs).

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    I see you got your new toy. Enjoy! How do you plan on getting through all the BS here to get it through all the inspections and emissions. I gave up trying to find a crusher car and am going with a GM LS3 E-Rod crate motor. At least it comes with a good warranty. I want an LS3, GM Tech for 36 years so its a natural for me.

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  5. #3
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    Most likely your 2 yr GM warranty will almost be up by the time the car is finished unless you purchase the engine at the very end of your build.
    I had my LS3 and tranny before the car arrived, oh well.
    Is there room for the CAT’s under the chassis? Not a lot of room under there.
    I went with no CAt’s, no emissions in my area.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mastertech5 View Post
    I see you got your new toy. Enjoy! How do you plan on getting through all the BS here to get it through all the inspections and emissions. I gave up trying to find a crusher car and am going with a GM LS3 E-Rod crate motor. At least it comes with a good warranty. I want an LS3, GM Tech for 36 years so its a natural for me.
    I am using a Pre-1974 Block (1969 351w). I have worked with the DEP, MAC, and State Police to get pre-approval for the emissions waivers. I too struggled to find a suitable crusher but they are out there. There is a junkyard in lexington, ma that will do the legwork for you (for a fee) but this engine block fell in my lap and I chose to stay the course.

    /Sean
    '33 Hot Rod Gen 2 Roadster #1209, 33 Grill, 3-Link Rear Suspension, Leather Roadster Seats, Electric Assist Steering, Rear Exhaust, 2 Piece FFR Bonneville Wheels (18x9/20x11) Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires (255/45/R18 and 305/35/R20), '69 Ford 351w (Stroked to 393. All Forged), AOD, 8.8 31 Spline Rear with Trac-Lok, QA1 PromaStars (Front 9" 220lb/Rear 12" 200lb Springs).

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  8. #5
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    I'm glad it worked out for you. I didn't think about the time lapse on the warranty, oh well. Maybe I can come up with a suitable pre '74 block before I'll need the engine, but I wanted to stay with modern FI. What's another 10K, LOL

  9. #6
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    Sounds like a great build plan. Look forward to following along.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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  11. #7
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shmelty View Post
    I am using a Pre-1974 Block (1969 351w). I have worked with the DEP, MAC, and State Police to get pre-approval for the emissions waivers. I too struggled to find a suitable crusher but they are out there. There is a junkyard in lexington, ma that will do the legwork for you (for a fee) but this engine block fell in my lap and I chose to stay the course.

    /Sean
    Sean, What's the process in using a pre "74 engine. I found a 1971 350 Corvette engine at a junkyard. What paperwork do I need to go this route. I haven't really explored this option. I've read on a couple guys doing this but no specifics are mentioned. Bruce

  12. #8
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    Mr. Smith,
    Congrats on you goal of building a 33 Hot Rod from Factory 5. I have always admired what they did with that vehicle.

    You are correct, that using a 1969 block satisfies kit car emissions requirements because that is a pre-emissions block. This option is popular because it is easy and inexpensive. Also, some folks like the notion of using a period-correct block.

    The easiest thing to do would be to send us the casting data off the block. That would allow us to verify the block, and we will work with the folks at the Motorist Assistance Center ahead of your visit so they know how you are meeting the requirements and have been working with DEP along the way.

    Once your vehicle is finished and you have it registered, you will go for your first inspection. At that inspection, the vehicle should be issued a failing sticker and a referral to a Motorist Assistance Center. The folks at the center are tasked with making sure that emissions requirements are met, and they will verify certain safety items for the Registry (because most inspection station seldom see a kit car, if ever). Once that is done, a code is entered into the system so that your 33 Hot Rod will only get a safety inspection when it goes in for its annual inspection - no more emissions while you own the vehicle.

    You are also correct, that there is another option for meeting kit car emissions requirements that involves crushing an existing vehicle. If you crush a vehicle that is 1973 or older with a similar sized engine, then no emissions controls are required on your kit car. This option is popular with folks that want to use a crate engine. If you are interested in that option, I can send you the details. Obviously, this is a little more involved and expensive than the period-correct block option you are considering.

    Thank you for doing your homework before you dive into this project. If you have any questions along the way, please do not hesitate to drop me a line or give me a call.

    I wish you and your son many happy hours of wrenching, and enjoying the fruits of your labor on the road once you are done!
    '33 Hot Rod Gen 2 Roadster #1209, 33 Grill, 3-Link Rear Suspension, Leather Roadster Seats, Electric Assist Steering, Rear Exhaust, 2 Piece FFR Bonneville Wheels (18x9/20x11) Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires (255/45/R18 and 305/35/R20), '69 Ford 351w (Stroked to 393. All Forged), AOD, 8.8 31 Spline Rear with Trac-Lok, QA1 PromaStars (Front 9" 220lb/Rear 12" 200lb Springs).

  13. #9
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    Well, this sucks. Do I really need to modify the UCAs to use the QA1s in the upper holes? I thought it was direct replacement? I got the kit from Dan Ruth.

    unnamed (1).jpg
    '33 Hot Rod Gen 2 Roadster #1209, 33 Grill, 3-Link Rear Suspension, Leather Roadster Seats, Electric Assist Steering, Rear Exhaust, 2 Piece FFR Bonneville Wheels (18x9/20x11) Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires (255/45/R18 and 305/35/R20), '69 Ford 351w (Stroked to 393. All Forged), AOD, 8.8 31 Spline Rear with Trac-Lok, QA1 PromaStars (Front 9" 220lb/Rear 12" 200lb Springs).

  14. #10
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    Thanks for clearing that up! That'll save me some money and more fun building an engine.

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  16. #11
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    I think you may have that upside down, just a thought.

  17. #12
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    Mark Dougherty chimed in and set me in the right direction so I went with the Lower Holes. See pic below. IMG_0017.jpg

    Thanks,

    Sean
    Last edited by shmelty; 07-26-2020 at 05:15 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Gen 2 Roadster #1209, 33 Grill, 3-Link Rear Suspension, Leather Roadster Seats, Electric Assist Steering, Rear Exhaust, 2 Piece FFR Bonneville Wheels (18x9/20x11) Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires (255/45/R18 and 305/35/R20), '69 Ford 351w (Stroked to 393. All Forged), AOD, 8.8 31 Spline Rear with Trac-Lok, QA1 PromaStars (Front 9" 220lb/Rear 12" 200lb Springs).

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  19. #13
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    I haven't even ordered my kit yet so I guessed. Read plenty of built threads though.

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  21. #14
    Senior Member Mastertech5's Avatar
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    Have any of you guys watched Street Rod Jim's You tube videos? They're also on his build thread here. He documents everything he does. A little boring sometimes but loaded with good information.

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    I have been waiting since the end of March to move forward and get my 33 registered. I have been stopped by the inability of obtaining the assigned VIN required. I have been told by the registry that to obtain the assigned VIN I need to bring the form to a Registry off, pay the $50 fee and bring the form along with a paid reciept to the state police for the the typical vehicle inspection. Problem is, to pay the $50 I need an appointment at the RMV and have been repeatedly told that function is not an "essential service" so they won't give me an appointment. Frustrating beyond belief as the car has been completed for months! I am using a 1958 Buick engine that was given to me by a friend, so obviously it has no smog parts at all. I have spoken with the people at MAC and they have been helpful, but can't do much until the VIN is assigned. Anyone knowing a way around this quagmire would be greatly appreciated as it doesn't look like the RMV is reopening to full service for a long time.

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  24. #16
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    '33 Hot Rod Gen 2 Roadster #1209, 33 Grill, 3-Link Rear Suspension, Leather Roadster Seats, Electric Assist Steering, Rear Exhaust, 2 Piece FFR Bonneville Wheels (18x9/20x11) Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires (255/45/R18 and 305/35/R20), '69 Ford 351w (Stroked to 393. All Forged), AOD, 8.8 31 Spline Rear with Trac-Lok, QA1 PromaStars (Front 9" 220lb/Rear 12" 200lb Springs).

  25. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by cob427sc View Post
    I have been waiting since the end of March to move forward and get my 33 registered. I have been stopped by the inability of obtaining the assigned VIN required. I have been told by the registry that to obtain the assigned VIN I need to bring the form to a Registry off, pay the $50 fee and bring the form along with a paid reciept to the state police for the the typical vehicle inspection. Problem is, to pay the $50 I need an appointment at the RMV and have been repeatedly told that function is not an "essential service" so they won't give me an appointment. Frustrating beyond belief as the car has been completed for months! I am using a 1958 Buick engine that was given to me by a friend, so obviously it has no smog parts at all. I have spoken with the people at MAC and they have been helpful, but can't do much until the VIN is assigned. Anyone knowing a way around this quagmire would be greatly appreciated as it doesn't look like the RMV is reopening to full service for a long time.
    You're gonna have more responses if you post this in the registration section rather than schmelty's build thread..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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  27. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by shmelty View Post
    Mark Dougherty chimed in and set me in the right direction so I went with the Lower Holes. See pic below. IMG_0017.jpg

    Thanks,

    Sean
    Sean, you should turn those upper shock mount bolts around so the nuts will face the radiator, otherwise if you ever want to pull the shocks out you’ll need to remove the radiator.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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  29. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Sean, you should turn those upper shock mount bolts around so the nuts will face the radiator, otherwise if you ever want to pull the shocks out you’ll need to remove the radiator.
    Thanks for the heads up Jim!
    '33 Hot Rod Gen 2 Roadster #1209, 33 Grill, 3-Link Rear Suspension, Leather Roadster Seats, Electric Assist Steering, Rear Exhaust, 2 Piece FFR Bonneville Wheels (18x9/20x11) Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires (255/45/R18 and 305/35/R20), '69 Ford 351w (Stroked to 393. All Forged), AOD, 8.8 31 Spline Rear with Trac-Lok, QA1 PromaStars (Front 9" 220lb/Rear 12" 200lb Springs).

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