SS383 Build - 33 Hot Rod #1134

[peterh226]

So I’ve been working on the door guides. The manual is a bit off as some of the measurements are still Gen 1. The 3/8 and 1/2 from a baseline is not enough for the aluminum strips which need more like 1.25 in.
CA8130F4-4BD0-4D82-A3AE-B885F4EC4678.jpeg

If you look closely you can see in pencil where the opening show up compared to the manual measurements. Since the aluminum pieces have to fit a certain way, I’m going to go with the opening required by these pieces.
DB74F693-C23D-4A26-AE37-DE08B5954E9D.jpeg
Most of the difference is at the front edge.
I found that if you tape the aluminum trip pieces together and turn them upside down on the opposite door you can see how they can fit. You can see the passenger side pieces upside down on the drivers door below.
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Also I found that the 19in trim dimension on the window track is not quite enough because of the aluminum. Looks like 18.75 or maybe a little less to clear the trim and the seal.

[peterh226]

Cut out the dash to get my gauge cluster figured out. Gonna mount the vents way at the ends but may need to play some games to get the vents to lay the way I want. I think I’m going to mount all switches on a to be designed console.
6D1954FE-5BEF-43AF-86C0-8C779416CD66.jpeg

[FF33rod]

interesting gauge layout. Hadn't seen one before with 2 of the smaller in the middle. What company is that from Peter?

Steve

[peterh226]

interesting gauge layout. Hadn't seen one before with 2 of the smaller in the middle. What company is that from Peter?

Steve

I got it at a booth at the NSRA show in Kalamazoo MI. http://phoenixmachinellc.com/
DashInsertMounted.jpg phoenixmachinellc.jpg

[peterh226]

I had no problems with the lower holes. But my question is about which hole to use for connecting the coil overs to the upper control arm. The manual still shows the old style arm and doesn’t mention which to use. Most Gen2 builds I’ve seen use the top hole. One person at F5 thought the lower as right. Thoughts?

I recently went back and moved the lower control arms to the upper holes. I had to relocate a grease fitting so it would not hit the Power Steering. I am using the Lower hole on the upper shock mount to get extra ground clearance. With some pre-load in the front spring, I'm about 5+ inches for ride height. So I'm happy for now.

[peterh226]

I had posted some A/C and Heating lines somewhere but wanted update my posting here to be complete.
The HVAC is tight and as others have noted, playing with locations and fittings.
HVAC.jpg HVAC2.JPG

I also got a flapper for the defroster.
DefrostFlap.jpg

[peterh226]

I got busy today working on the console design.
Ignition and headlight switch will be on a panel under the dash (wife suggestion!). Power window switches on the side. Usable compartment under the armrest as well. USB plugs will be on the front of the armrest. HVAC ports will feed the foot wells as well.
68B8E189-2E6C-4E15-911A-C36AEDAF0B26.jpeg

[Bgardner]

Nice

Very similar to what I am mocking up. Will your stick miss the coffee cup when going through the gears. I'm not sure if I can get 2 cup holders in with my set up but that will be the passengers problem.

[Dduty]

I recently went back and moved the lower control arms to the upper holes. I had to relocate a grease fitting so it would not hit the Power Steering. I am using the Lower hole on the upper shock mount to get extra ground clearance. With some pre-load in the front spring, I'm about 5+ inches for ride height. So I'm happy for now.

I talked to Jim S. at FFR about which to use.
The lower holes will give more clearance especially if you are running full fenders. By using the upper holes the chassis will run lower. Regardless of which you choose the control arms and coil overs must match.

[Dduty]

Cut out the dash to get my gauge cluster figured out. Gonna mount the vents way at the ends but may need to play some games to get the vents to lay the way I want. I think I’m going to mount all switches on a to be designed console.
6D1954FE-5BEF-43AF-86C0-8C779416CD66.jpeg

Hey Peter,
The gauge panel is really sharp and I’m looking similar.
I assume the gauge cluster is flat and the dash is slightly convex in that area.
What is the method for mounting it?

[peterh226]

Hey Peter,
The gauge panel is really sharp and I’m looking similar.
I assume the gauge cluster is flat and the dash is slightly convex in that area.
What is the method for mounting it?

It's billet with machine screws and bent metal clamps - about 6 of them - on the backside. Nothing fancy. I'm using Dakota Digital gauges so I can install easily in the dash panel and then just plug in the network cable. I'm mounting all switches on a panel underneath so there will only be gauges and the A/C outlets in the panel itself.

[peterh226]

I’ve been going through all of the electrical and sorting out my changes. I don’t want the ignition or lights to be in the dash so I made a panel that will be in front of the fuse panel. I removed the fuel relay and that gives a little more room.

Apr_dash1.jpg
The part where the switches mount is double thick.
Apr_dash2.jpg
Switches Mounted
Apr_dash3.jpg
The Dash will be even with the radio display. So the switches will be behind the dash.

[peterh226]

I decided to add 1/2 in wheel spacers to the rear to get the tire a bit away from the body and closer to the out side of the fender. As with everything, one things leads to 10 others.
I couldn’t find the length I really wanted so ended up with a set of moroso 3in that I cut down. Harbor freight clamp to push out the old and some spacers and a lug nut to put in the new.
IMG_2293.jpg
Only got about 4 threads engaged with the original studs.
IMG_2295 (1).jpg
I used a crowfoot wrench as a spacer and worked great.
IMG_2296 (1).jpg
This one was a bit to long so I took another 1/4 in off. Ended up shortening the pin by about .6 in.
IMG_2300 (1).jpg
This length gives a ton of thread engagement.

[peterh226]

Seats are a tough one. I wanted head rest. Just something about having that support. And since the top will not be removed, looks aren’t as important. I got the kirkey seats and while comfortable for me once in place, they are a lot harder to get in and out of. So, I did some work to get them mounted and might as well share that. After trying several things I ended up with 2x2 tubing so I could mount through the frame and have seat adjusters on top.
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Here are the tubes. I welded a stud to go through the frame as I can’t get to that bolt on its in the car.
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Here’s it mounted to the sliders that have a couple of standoffs to get the right angle to the floor.
image.jpg
And finally in the car.

[peterh226]

It works! Sensors are all sensing. Fan is controlled by the sniper EFI ok. Now I can start to worry about all of the other stuff. My light switch and ignition are a bit close to the dash but will be fine. Now to get back to fitting all of the body pieces.
IMG_2303 (1).jpg IMG_2304 (1).jpg

[peterh226]

Drawing of the layout
HoodSideDrawing.png
I laid out the center points
DD6F78BE-43D2-4E57-BC13-843524C0759C.jpeg
Then drilled the 2” hole
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Connected the holes
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Here’s what it look like with the fender and a sample of the mesh I’m going to use
36EFFE1C-9B63-490B-84AB-8A94891DA25B.jpeg

Mesh will be silver like other accents.

[1932]

I like and will work.

[peterh226]

I got back to fitting the front apron. In the Gen 2 it’s two pieces. I tried some alignment last summer and got close but gave up on the front. Today was the day to get back at it.
First I did some alignment and added a metal brace. Then I added a bunch of fiberglass to join and extend the piece.
56C7FE5B-DE53-4251-8C48-751022C1CCB6.jpeg
I used a bunch of layers
51B1C1D8-6F6C-4DC4-B989-A672BD7388AF.jpeg
And after some fitting I’m happy and it’s gonna work ok.
E567C07E-4FF2-42D9-A28E-706ADA4A7861.jpeg
Tomorrow I hope to get the fenders fitted.

[wrp]

That really looks good.

[GoDadGo]

Looks like a heck of a good solution to me.

[FF33rod]

Looks great Peter. Amazing this still needs to be done on gen 2
Steve

[peterh226]

This was after I sectioned the lowers last summer as well. I dont think I could use the new carbon fiber sides with the fitment issues I've had. Not sure what I've been missing. But, I kinda consider it all part of the fun. The overall body with Gen 2 is the same. Just new doors and they no longer have the inner layer for the top.

[Mastertech5]

Hi Peter, I just read your whole build thread. It looks like your progressing at a good clip. I plan on getting a 33 kit in the next few months and have been reading ALOT on the forums trying to pick up pointers for my build when that happens. Your doing a great job in my book. Keep up the good work and most of all have fun!

[peterh226]

Thanks @Mastertech5, the number of issues increases exponentially with the number of options and your creative desires. But it's all fun. Many challenges to overcome.

[peterh226]

I’ve got a lot of stuff to fit in the top
- windshield wipers from mighty wipers (2)
- grab handles from a junkyard Cadillac
- chmsl from Watson’s
- rear view camera
- something for overhead lighting

Lens and camera mount
IMG_2482.jpg
grab handle mount
IMG_2484.jpg
wiper mount. I'm going to configure it so I can remove the wiper motors when I want.
IMG_2487.jpg
Bonus image. I have added metal to adjust the running boards so the support fits better. About 1/2 inches in and up. Had fun welding and grinding, but will work well.
IMG_2488.jpg

[peterh226]

Worked on some details. Been worried about how little fiberglass was at the top front edge so I decided (as others have) to put a metal tab in.

AB425C09-8A84-40F0-8816-5AF8006652D4.jpeg
This is with the panel pulled out
084470C1-E866-4854-AA29-1DCF9B4DA0E1.jpeg
Before glassing in place
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Back side
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With screw attachment.

A little more security where it’s probably not needed!

[peterh226]

I’m back to the doors and getting the fit right. I’ve been trying too hard not to remove material and finally realized that was part of my problem. So door fit is almost there and close enough to get the inside and outside door mechanisms working.
Got the power windows installed and oriented to the roof. That pretty much defines where the guides need to go. I really don’t get where some of the dimensions come from for this stuff as it just doesn’t fit the way it should. So I’ll have to do some adjustments to the aluminum door pieces or fab something new. But, the window does appear like it will go up and down nicely and be pretty snug to the door seal.
What experience is anyone else having?
9C860235-39D4-4D1D-A047-AC6CFA1C9BE7.jpeg. 34CE43DE-DB61-4054-8E10-0CFFAB544379.jpeg

[JimLev]

I’m working on the door to window seals now.
How does your windows seal to the roof?
I’m having issues with getting the glass to touch the top front of the weatherstrip.

[BC Huselton]

I’m working on the door to window seals now.
How does your windows seal to the roof?
I’m having issues with getting the glass to touch the top front of the weatherstrip.

I had to open the slot to 1 3/8 the entire length for everything to fit in. Also had to thin out the door top fiberglass because it was too thick to slide in under the aluminum molding and the top edge of the seal. If you slide the seal all of the way up on the molding there is no space for the fiberglass to slide in between.

Also, had to cut and TIG the Molding to conform to the top. I found no way to make the kit molding work without cutting and reworking it.

No trouble with the travel of the glass to the top seal. Check the travel on a bench to see if you have some blockage somewhere.

Good luck

Slide4.JPG

[FF33rod]

One of these days I need to get back to trying to get the windows lined up properly. Similar to others, the slot needs to be a lot wider than in the manual. Last time I worked on them, I was having trouble getting enough adjustment range in the internal door pieces to get the angle on the window correct so that it was sitting snug to the hard top at the very top. Seems like no matter what I did, it was sticking out from the seal somewhere. I have a feeling I'm going to have to take the whole darn door apart again to make some modifications. I hope gen 2 doors are easier for you.

Steve

[peterh226]

Yup, that looks like where I’m heading. Not clear if I want to mold it into the door or attach to the top.

[peterh226]

One of these days I need to get back to trying to get the windows lined up properly. Similar to others, the slot needs to be a lot wider than in the manual. Last time I worked on them, I was having trouble getting enough adjustment range in the internal door pieces to get the angle on the window correct so that it was sitting snug to the hard top at the very top. Seems like no matter what I did, it was sticking out from the seal somewhere. I have a feeling I'm going to have to take the whole darn door apart again to make some modifications. I hope gen 2 doors are easier for you.
Steve

Gen2 doors have some more room but don’t really seem any better. Lots of rework and filler. At least I feel like I’m making progress and the window fit seems ok.

[peterh226]

I have brazed the two pieces together and will epoxy the mounting screws in place as studs. I’m going to paint to match the grill and belt line.
31640179-B6C7-4806-A404-24001F62771A.jpeg. 0EC65312-8F25-4FDB-9D11-DC7960DAC61C.jpeg
Still will take some smoothing but I think the window seals ok and works well. I’ll take a video one of these days.
Always a chance to learn another skill with this thing.

[peterh226]

Always another challenge. I have the hardtop and therefore power windows. When I installed the inner and outer door handles, the cable lengths were not working out. So I added a short extension to the clevis at the Bearclaw to make up the difference. I can also see that I will need to route these 2 cables carefully so they dont interfere with the window operation.
DrivDoor3.jpg Here's the view from the Bearclaw
DrivDoor2.jpg And from inside.
DriDoor1.jpg Door closed and latched.
Lets see if the passenger side is any different. Once I get all the parts in again. I'll show all the stuff in there.

[33fromSD]

I got back to fitting the front apron. In the Gen 2 it’s two pieces. I tried some alignment last summer and got close but gave up on the front. Today was the day to get back at it.
First I did some alignment and added a metal brace. Then I added a bunch of fiberglass to join and extend the piece.
56C7FE5B-DE53-4251-8C48-751022C1CCB6.jpeg
I used a bunch of layers
51B1C1D8-6F6C-4DC4-B989-A672BD7388AF.jpeg
And after some fitting I’m happy and it’s gonna work ok.
E567C07E-4FF2-42D9-A28E-706ADA4A7861.jpeg
Tomorrow I hope to get the fenders fitted.

The fit is really nice Peter. Can I ask if you wouldn't mind taking picture of the grill bracket that mounts to the upper control arm. I'm curious to see how far up or down you are on the slot in that bracket. I'm all the way down and I'm just getting into the front apron, mine is way off and I'm wondering if I need to go up on the grill assembly and in a bit on the bottom. Thanks..Jim

[peterh226]

Drivers side window has a flat surface in the drivers side to seal against. That side is fitting ok.
On the passenger side, the sealing surface is not flat. Just holding the window against the side leaves the top front corner more open - by like 3/8 of an inch or so. Not sure what I can do about this except add a bigger seal at that corner. I guess I need to see how the windshield fits to see how warped anything else is.

[peterh226]

Door latching spacer and door power needs to be worked. My cables for the door releases were a little short. So I made a little extender of 1/2 and 7/8. Now I have enough reach and it works smoother.
924404CE-3DFE-4BC2-B83F-3F0C31E24C17.jpeg A65C59B7-6D0A-4A8E-B58D-990098AD24B3.jpeg

The other piece was to get my door contacts into place. I fit it to the frame as tight as I could. 1ED002EE-925B-4456-B384-C65BAA1FDD5D.jpeg I then drilled some guide holes and mounted the matching one to the door. 8D8D0150-126E-4CB7-A911-6902479A4304.jpeg body side.
11C069B5-24B4-4958-B83B-5EAE1FB80639.jpeg and matching door side. 4A37E130-DB94-4EF0-BF29-E80272608B38.jpeg and 84B70C08-3312-4962-812C-7E8AAE97978F.jpeg and you can see how they make contact. These look cool and will work well.

[peterh226]

I’m working on the door to window seals now.
How does your windows seal to the roof?
I’m having issues with getting the glass to touch the top front of the weatherstrip.

Drivers side is fine. Passenger side looks like I’ll need to change to a thin felt on the front lower edge to have a chance at a seal. If I just hold the window up to the seal surface it’s not flat.

[peterh226]

Here’s a shot of three area
First the upper control arm. I ended up using the top one as I thought that would support the grill a little higher.
26065D2C-81B0-46B1-BAC4-8D7F19D10401.jpeg
Next you can see I added a couple of hood bumpers as I didn’t like having the radiator able to move too much.
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And here’s how the bracket looks at the radiator.
59138309-BD25-49BA-83FE-42D1BABC8C81.jpeg
Let me know if you have any other suggestions or questions!!

[peterh226]

Safety pins for the doors. I got the Carolina Custom kits with the speed sensor electronic control. With the Gen2 door beam I was able to attach it pretty easily. I drilled 2 holes in then beam 1/2 in apart. The first was so I could figure out where to drill the hole in the door. Then I moved it up so I had enough through the door to get engagement in the door frame. Then extend the pin to get the next hole location.
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Here’s the mounting.
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