Comp dash for MK4

[FMJ]

I'm looking for a comp dash and it appears my only options are...

1) Purchase a blank dash from Factory Fave and have a local shop cut the holes

2) Buy a dash from Acton for $385 (which seems a bit pricy)

Any other suggestions?

-Fred

[Jeff Kleiner]

#3) Buy a blank from FFR and you cut the holes.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...EJZ7JKT5DAY562

Cheers,
jeff

[MPTech]

x2 what Jeff said!

That's exactly what I did and the tool I used. (you can also buy specialized hole saw/drill bits from the big box stores).

[Bren]

I used hole saws for the small gauges and a reciprocating saw for the larger ones. Turned out great. Just make sure that you've got a wood backing (plywood) when you're cutting the holes. That makes all the difference.

[edwardb]

X4 (or whatever). Buy the blank dash and cut it yourself. Not only cheaper, but you can get the gauges exactly where you want them. For me this is huge, and would cause me to make my own cutouts even if the pre-cut version was more reasonable. Make patterns of your instruments and play with the sight lines with the dash in your car, seat, and steering wheel in place. You can stay true to the comp layout and still move the gauges around a little so you can see them better. Especially the tach. It tends to hide behind the steering wheel.

The circle cutter works fine. However, I ended up using a step drill for the smaller stuff and a sabre saw with a very fine metal cutting blade on the larger ones. Also works fine. This is only .040 aluminum. Not steel. It's easy to cut and file/sand if necessary.

My Mk4 build while layout out the dash. This pic isn't exactly in line with the sight line in the seat, but gives the best idea of what I'm talking about.


Finished dash:


This is very close to where my eyes would be in the driver's seat. Shows how moving the tach slightly, along with other subtle changes, makes the instruments more visible. But still a comp layout.

[Bren]

Make patterns of your instruments and play with the sight lines with the dash in your car, seat, and steering wheel in place. You can stay true to the comp layout and still move the gauges around a little so you can see them better. Especially the tach. It tends to hide behind the steering wheel.

The circle cutter works fine. However, I ended up using a step drill for the smaller stuff and a sabre saw with a very fine metal cutting blade on the larger ones. Also works fine. This is only .040 aluminum. Not steel. It's easy to cut and file/sand if necessary.

Exactly. I also agree that the step drill is the absolute best tool for this job, if you can afford it. I went to buy one and they were crazy expensive. I used a hole saw that was slightly smaller, and then filed out the hole as needed.

[edwardb]

Exactly. I also agree that the step drill is the absolute best tool for this job, if you can afford it. I went to buy one and they were crazy expensive. I used a hole saw that was slightly smaller, and then filed out the hole as needed.

I only used step drills for the small holes, e.g. switches, indicator lights, etc. I get them at Harbor Freight. Usually ten bucks or so for a two or three piece set. Useful many places in the build. I don't use them on steel much. They seem to wear pretty quickly. But for aluminum, I haven't worn any out yet. Agreed that large diameter name brand ones are quite expensive.

[Bren]

I only used step drills for the small holes, e.g. switches, indicator lights, etc. I get them at Harbor Freight. Usually ten bucks or so for a two or three piece set. Useful many places in the build. I don't use them on steel much. They seem to wear pretty quickly. But for aluminum, I haven't worn any out yet. Agreed that large diameter name brand ones are quite expensive.

Huh, guess who's headed to Harbor Freight for some step bits...

[carlewms]

Like all have said...buy the blank and cut yourself. A couple of tips:

1. I recommend the step bit for the smaller holes but be careful...the aluminum is pretty soft and you can make the hole too big without careful use;
2. I covered the dash in painters tape, used circles of the right diameters and then sat in the car to tweek the layout;
3. The blank dash comes with the hole for the shaft, but if your using the RT turn signal you will to expand the hole.

Have fun!

[Mister7]

Search McMaster Carr for adjustable hole saw. That is what I used and it worked great. image.jpg

[DaleG]

I only used step drills for the small holes, e.g. switches, indicator lights, etc. I get them at Harbor Freight. Usually ten bucks or so for a two or three piece set. Useful many places in the build. I don't use them on steel much. They seem to wear pretty quickly. But for aluminum, I haven't worn any out yet. Agreed that large diameter name brand ones are quite expensive.

Yup, I use the step drill bits all the time; invaluable.

[toadster]

#3) Buy a blank from FFR and you cut the holes.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...EJZ7JKT5DAY562

Cheers,
jeff

6 years later, still asking Jeff posts LOL

what do you use on carbon fiber?

[nucjd19]

6 years later, still asking Jeff posts LOL

what do you use on carbon fiber?

I used the same adjustable hole bit that Jeff linked from amazon. Wear a mask and gloves. CF is no joke to the lungs and feels worse than fiberglass when it gets on your skin. I used a drill press with wood backing on the CF dash. Did not do the competition layout.

[richtersand]

I am about to start working on some of the holes with flats on one/both sides of the circle. Any suggestions on how to best make the hole with flats? I’m thinking undersized hole, make flats with flat file and open up rounded portions with rounded file....