Camera's 818C

[mcamera]

I got the engine closed up, filled the car with fluids, and had my first start yesterday! It went well and the car was actually not that loud with just the cat. I also learned a few things.

1) Even though I had the oil pan off to install the Killer B oil pickup, there is still a fair amount of oil in the engine. Tilting the motor to drop it in the chassis must have moved some of this oil back to the pan. I didn't expect anything to come out when I took the drain bolt off so naturally I spent 30 min cleaning up an oil spill on my garage floor.

2) The car wouldn't crank when I tried priming the oil system. I figured out it was just the clutch switch not being fully depressed by the clutch pedal. I adjusted the switch so it would be pushed in further by the pedal and the car started cranking. It took me about (5) 30 second cranks for my oil pressure light to go out. With a minute rest between cranks for the starter.

3) A Mighty Vac is too small to vacuum bleed a 3.5 gallon cooling system (also this car has a 3.5 gallon coolant system!). A couple hundred pumps later I gave up and used a shop vac to vacuum bleed. I just held it to the hose that goes to the barb on the engine coolant pipe (VCP mod). Just kept filling the coolant degas bottle as it got drained.

4) Even with my vacuum bleeding, there was still a little air in the system. My first start got near the hot side of the temp gauge after idling for 15 min. I turned off the car, let it cool down and pull some coolant from the recovery bottle, and the 2nd start never got past half way on the temp gauge.

5) Pour your trans fluid into the dip stick tube slowly. I poured too fast and the fluid burped and spilled on my trans a couple times. I have a bunch of dark water spots on my trans now that I'm hoping I can clean off without damaging the paint.

[Scott Meyer]

Very cool! Glad you’ve gotten to this stage, and worked through some of the items that you were asking about.

Curious why your rear wheels were engaged and spinning after the start and when you walked around to the rear?
What are you going to do for tuning the engine? Liam hooked up with “RisingSun Tuning” here in Ohio and was able to get a basic tune loaded via the Tatrix 2.0 adapter and RomRaider open source program, to delete a bunch of stuff and really helped eliminate our excessive smoking (rich) and high idle, and also got rid of the check engine light.

We used a vacuum bleeder tool from Harbor Freight on the cooling system at both the engine fill port and radiator cap, and had no air in the system. Agree it took about 3 gallons of coolant.

[mcamera]

Very cool! Glad you’ve gotten to this stage, and worked through some of the items that you were asking about.

Curious why your rear wheels were engaged and spinning after the start and when you walked around to the rear?
What are you going to do for tuning the engine? Liam hooked up with “RisingSun Tuning” here in Ohio and was able to get a basic tune loaded via the Tatrix 2.0 adapter and RomRaider open source program, to delete a bunch of stuff and really helped eliminate our excessive smoking (rich) and high idle, and also got rid of the check engine light.

We used a vacuum bleeder tool from Harbor Freight on the cooling system at both the engine fill port and radiator cap, and had no air in the system. Agree it took about 3 gallons of coolant.

I'm not sure why the wheels spin, the car was in neutral. I can stop them with my hand and they stay still sometimes so the clutch isn't engaged. I feel like I've had other cars do the same thing. If anybody on here knows I would be interested to hear why they spin when in neutral.

I'm leaning towards a Cobb Accessport for tuning but now they charge $675 for the tuner, and require a $150 class to be allowed to use their software. Not including having the car professionally tuned for $500. You have my interest with the Rom Raider. $170 Tactrix cable + ~$500 tune is still less than just the Accessport!

[Ajzride]

I bought an Accessport and sent it back without taking it out of the box once I learned about RomRaider and the Tactrix cable. It's a way smarter move if you can handle the tuning yourself or can find a tuner who doesn't care about locking their work.

[roadrashrob]

I just (finally) got my wiring harness back from Wayne at VCP, and I'm extremely impressed! Way neater and more streamlined than I could have hoped. Will post more about it in my thread, but as many know he swaps out the ECU with a MegaSquirt based MS3 Pro. It has a built in USB port, CAN bus, and still has a serial port (why??), and I've been reading / studying a lot about TunerStudio. Only like a $50 upgrade from the free version to the upgraded version, but key is that it unlocks the "AutoTune" feature which seems really helpful. Can't wait to get the harness installed and connected.

[aquillen]

I think the trans rolling the wheels in neutral on a stand is typical. Mine does that as well. Easy to stop the wheel/s as you mention too.

[mcamera]

Fixed a coolant leak at the outlet on the engine and tightened all of the other clamps to be safe. My engine has been getting too hot and I can see bubbles in my coolant recovery tank when the car's running so the system is still working some air out. The coolant pipes on the sides of the car weren't even getting warm so coolant wasn't circulating. I've heat cycled the car a few times and it took another quart of coolant. Now the pipes are getting warm so there is circulation. I'm going to cycle it a few more times until the engine stops drawing extra coolant from the recovery tank.

Every website is sold out of the Cipher 2001 Euro seats that I want. I found a site that had them in stock so I ordered them, but 2 days later they said they're unavailable. I had a feeling that was going to happen! Also can't find my 2nd pick the Cipher 2009 seats. They're back ordered until June. My 3rd pick just shipped today, Cipher 2009RS seats. Black with black stitching. They don't have the "ribbed" cushions that I like but still look awesome. For twice the price I'm hoping they're sturdier and don't fade like I'd expect generic seats from Amazon to. I had entry level cloth Corbeau's in a previous car that flexed and faded pretty quickly, so I have little faith in generic seats doing better.

2001 - 2009 - 2009RS (what I bought)
cpa2001pcfbk_1.jpg cpa2009pcfbk_1.jpg cpa2009rs-pcfbk_1.jpg

I have the Zero Decibel's bell crank mocked up on my trans and I'm going to turn the FFR plastic shifter around so the cables head to the back. I laid out a FFR shifter cable to see how excessively long it is.... it's a 14ft cable covering a 7 foot span. I don't like the idea of looping/hiding that much excess cable. Time to shop for custom cables like everybody else.

Back to cleaning up my wiring and modifying my rear-rear firewall for wires/hoses that now pass through. So I can fit my rear firewall/center tunnel.

[Ajzride]

If you get the Cipher and don't like them, I love my Braun Elite-X seats.

Seats.jpg

[Russellmn]

I think the trans rolling the wheels in neutral on a stand is typical. Mine does that as well. Easy to stop the wheel/s as you mention too.

Was explained to me as just drag in the bearings imparting a little torque through to the output shaft. When the tires are on the ground there's more than enough resistance to prevent it from spinning.

[mcamera]

If you get the Cipher and don't like them, I love my Braun Elite-X seats.

Seats.jpg

I looked at the Elite-X's but the sites I checked were also out of the style I wanted. That diamond stitching looks nice!

Was explained to me as just drag in the bearings imparting a little torque through to the output shaft. When the tires are on the ground there's more than enough resistance to prevent it from spinning.

Now that my engine has idled for more than an hour, the wheels rarely turn. Whatever friction was causing them to turn has gone away. Everything has been sitting for months and now that it's moving again, some corrosion has been knocked down or something is well lubricated again.

[mcamera]

I got my Cipher 2009RS seats yesterday and I really like them. The leatherette feels like a quality material and the stitching looks great. I have a little room in the waist, the bolsters are snug at my lats, and the harness holes are slightly above my shoulders. These should work really well for me. I'm 5'9", 155lbs, and have a 32" waist.

It looks like a great fit on the driver's side where the firewall is further back, but I don't think there will be room for the seat on the passenger side. I'll probably have to modify the passenger side firewall to match the depth of the driver's side. I'll work on fitting them this weekend.

IMG_1141.jpg IMG_1140.jpg IMG_1142.jpg IMG_1143.jpg IMG_1144.jpg IMG_1145.jpg

Side note, I noticed my Mishimoto radiator cap was slightly hissing on cool down so I ordered an OEM replacement cap. According to FastWRX, they prefer the OEM over any aftermarket caps. Sounds like leaking is a common issue for them. Just an FYI for anybody with an aftermarket cap.

[Kiwi Dave]

It looks like a great fit on the driver's side where the firewall is further back, but I don't think there will be room for the seat on the passenger side. I'll probably have to modify the passenger side firewall to match the depth of the driver's side.

I have the Euro version of those seats and I think they are cool-looking and comfortable. I am putting in the passenger seat today with the standard tank and rear firewall and I am mounting it in on home-made brackets so it clears the angled bar coming from the floor.

Seat bracket.jpg

It's not movable, but it is set in a comfy position. An option for you if you don't want to modify the firewall.

On the drivers seat, I used the sliders that came with the seats to get an inch or two of travel - I bolted them to a steel plate that is my floor in this area. You can have both adjustable if you modify the firewall.

Cheers

Dave

[mcamera]

I have the Euro version of those seats and I think they are cool-looking and comfortable. I am putting in the passenger seat today with the standard tank and rear firewall and I am mounting it in on home-made brackets so it clears the angled bar coming from the floor.

Seat bracket.jpg

It's not movable, but it is set in a comfy position. An option for you if you don't want to modify the firewall.

On the drivers seat, I used the sliders that came with the seats to get an inch or two of travel - I bolted them to a steel plate that is my floor in this area. You can have both adjustable if you modify the firewall.

Cheers

Dave

That's a good idea Dave I'll keep that as a backup plan. Working on my driver's seat more this weekend, but so far I have the slider mocked up so the slider handle is just behind the angled bar. Like that, the back of my slider is only ~2" from the firewall. So as expected, I can't do the same setup for the passenger side where the firewall is ~4" closer to the seat.

Another option is to modify the slider handle so it doesn't hit the angled bar, which allows me to move the seat forward another 2". The seat would still have to go up and over the angled bar like you're doing but I might be able to keep the slider.

A diagram for anybody that hasn't crossed this bridge yet.

Seat Bracket Diagram.jpg

[FFRWRX]

Yes, that angled bar is in a really inconvenient place. It limits how much travel you can get from seat sliders; minimal on the drivers side and pretty much nothing for the passenger. I'm using the sliders on the passenger side but only as a means to mount the seat.

[Ajzride]

I cut out the angled bars, but mine is built for the street, not the track.

[DSR-3]

I used Sparco sliders (looks like all the others), tilted the seat 1.25" up, and it clears that bar mostly. The adjuster handle hits when forward (which is pretty far), so I did some fancy bends and cuts on the first side to get more travel, and left the other to start. Turns out that at 6ft tall I never move from almost full-back unless looking for things... Never been an issue on either side. I see you have the stepped tank, I would think you're "stuck" (sorry), but you won't miss the adjustment.

[mcamera]

Yes, that angled bar is in a really inconvenient place. It limits how much travel you can get from seat sliders; minimal on the drivers side and pretty much nothing for the passenger. I'm using the sliders on the passenger side but only as a means to mount the seat.

The driver's seat may not have a lot of adjustment but I want there to be room for a little fine tuning.

I cut out the angled bars, but mine is built for the street, not the track.

I'm keeping the angled bar for some added side impact safety. I think the chance of getting t-boned is much higher on the street (intersections/driveways) than on a race track where everybody is going in the same direction. I sat in my seat last night and had no support under my legs at the front of the seat. I need to raise the front anyways so I'll just go over the bar.

I used Sparco sliders (looks like all the others), tilted the seat 1.25" up, and it clears that bar mostly. The adjuster handle hits when forward (which is pretty far), so I did some fancy bends and cuts on the first side to get more travel, and left the other to start. Turns out that at 6ft tall I never move from almost full-back unless looking for things... Never been an issue on either side. I see you have the stepped tank, I would think you're "stuck" (sorry), but you won't miss the adjustment.

Looks like I need to raise the front of the seat at least 1" too. I'm going to buy some more steel this evening. Does your adjuster handle move with the seat? My adjuster handle doesn't so I have it set to just behind the angled bar and it stays there. One less headache for me. Even at 5'9" I'm close to all the way back (32" inseam for pants), but we'll see when I get the front of the seat tilted up more. I have a Boyd tank, but my firewall is still stepped. Depending on how my driver's seat install goes, I may cut the firewall to remove the step on the passenger side and duplicate my driver side install. Backup plan is to ditch the adjustment handle (interferes with angled bar) and just mount the slider in 1 position. I think similar to FFRWRX.

[DSR-3]

My handle moves forward- someday it will bite someone...
I find that even the little adjustment I use can be nice, mostly to change the back angle. The top of the seat is always maxed out, and there's really never enough leg room...
I bolted the rear holes (or did I drill more?) in the sliders to the frame tube. In the front I put a 1.25" steel tube across, bolting the silder to it, then the tube to the frame.

[mcamera]

Here's a little ergonomics study from installing my driver's seat. Hopefully this info will help somebody down the road. I know I debated a lot of options on how to install the seats and how well I'd fit in the car with them.

Slide1.JPG Slide2.JPG Slide3.JPG Slide4.JPG

[mcamera]

My shifter install with an ergonomics study. Hopefully this helps somebody figure out what to do on a future project. Or what not to do lol. To each their own.

Slide1.JPG Slide2.JPG Slide3.JPG Slide4.JPG

[Ajzride]

That is pretty much where mine sits now, you will be happy with it. I also went with an electric parking brake so I don't have any conflict with a handle or cables.

[DSR-3]

My shifter install with an ergonomics study. Hopefully this helps somebody figure out what to do on a future project. Or what not to do lol. To each their own.

Slide1.JPG Slide2.JPG Slide3.JPG Slide4.JPG

Suggest you design something stronger than thru-spacers for mounting. Consider some 1/2" Al plates. The loads on a shifter are high, sometimes really high, and you need something strong and stable with the beating it will take. Not a fun failure to deal with either.

[Hobby Racer]

Suggest you design something stronger than thru-spacers for mounting. Consider some 1/2" Al plates. The loads on a shifter are high, sometimes really high, and you need something strong and stable with the beating it will take. Not a fun failure to deal with either.

+1

I broke a shift lever off at high speed while coming into a chicane on a race track once, not a fun experience.

[mcamera]

Suggest you design something stronger than thru-spacers for mounting. Consider some 1/2" Al plates. The loads on a shifter are high, sometimes really high, and you need something strong and stable with the beating it will take. Not a fun failure to deal with either.

+1

I broke a shift lever off at high speed while coming into a chicane on a race track once, not a fun experience.

The shifter assembly is actually really stiff with the nylon spacers. They have a thick 1/8" wall thickness so they're not flimsy. I slammed the shifter around once I had it installed and there was no movement, but my cables aren't hooked up yet. Maybe the assembly will move more once there's a load on the lever. I'll look for metal spacers next time I'm at the hardware store now that I know my setup works. The nylon spacers were 1/4 the cost to try out. I don't think the nylon or my grade 5 bolts would ever fail, but I could see the nylon deforming and allowing some slop in the system. I agree it would be a pain to replace later so good call.

[fletch]

1/4 pipe works well in my opinion. That’s what I used to drop our MR2 shifter under the tunnel. Our spacers weren’t as long as yours but I agree rigidity is key here.

[Ajzride]

Mine is mounted in about the same spot, but I added additional 1" square tube to the floor frame and bolted it down rather than hanging it from above.

[mcamera]

Working on my center console. The first thing I did was cut the aluminum into 3 pieces so the top can be removed by itself. Now I won't have to remove both seats to pull off 1 big piece of aluminum on future repairs. Since I insulated the floor of my car, the aluminum also sat a 1/2" above my rails. Now it sits flat on the rails.

My shifter is mounted further back, so I don't have a lot of room for the handbrake. I'm playing with the mounting location but it looks like I'm going to buy a smaller Lokar handbrake like many others on here. The OEM wiring harness takes up a lot of space near the back and I won't be happy with a crooked handle across the console or a straight handle that squeezes between my seat and shifter.

I also ordered 8' shifting cables from Midwest Control. These are the only things keeping me from go karting.

I mocked up a side pod which was way more satisfying than I expected. Just 1 body panel made it feel like a real car lol. I wanted to see how far my rear wheels stuck out because I have very little clearance between my wheels and trailing arm. I wanted to buy the correct wheel spacers to be flush with the fender before I go karted, but I don't think I can accurately measure this until I have the rear bumper/hatch installed. It may push the fender out more. I'll live with the small clearance for go karting.

IMG_1210.jpg IMG_1211.jpg IMG_1213.jpg IMG_1216.jpg IMG_1218.jpg

[mcamera]

I reached out to 2 companies recommended on the Rom Raider website and neither have responded in a couple weeks. So I just purchased an Accessport. Gotta see what codes are keeping my check engine light on.

I've spent way too much time researching shift knobs haha. The Subaru knobs are $150. The Amazon ones are cheap, don't a have boot retaining ring, and often use a flimsy adapter. I don't like the look of the sphere knobs. The aftermarket metal knobs get too hot in the sun and my car will sit outside at work often. The aftermarket plastic knobs are boring and too light. I finally found a knob from Grimmspeed that should make me happy. Stainless steel w/ a textured black powdercoat. Looks nice, has a ring to hold up the shift boot, shouldn't be stupid hot like bare metal, weighs a hefty 675g, and cost less than $100. All it's missing is the shift pattern which isn't printed on top. Has anybody had any good/bad experiences with a shift knob they've tried? I know I'm over analyzing this but it's part of the fun building a car. Deciding what is and isn't worth it to you.

Grimmspeed Shift Knob.jpg

[roadrashrob]

I got this on ebay and it's great. (and dirt cheap) https://www.ebay.com/itm/312278182177

Polished up the ZDB "shaft" on the shifter and it looks amazing.IMG_2897.jpg

[Ajzride]

If you want something that won't get hot look for a Delrin shift knob. I have a 450gram shift knob on mine, but I have the mechanical linkage, not sure how it would feel with cables.

https://raceseng.com/topology-build-your-own

https://www.hybrid-racing.com/produc...rin-shift-knob

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...s-01-06-0104-1

[idf]

We like this Momo leather shift knob. Also have a FFR knob we will not be using and would be happy to sell. Shift knob 1.jpgShift knob 2.jpgShift knob 3.jpg

[J R Jones]

Mcamera, I have had a book on ergonomics and body-mechanics, but I can not find it. My memory is that a "punching motion" is natural and comfortable. When the forearm is pitched down, perceived forward effort is greater, I think.
I am dealing with 818 shifter issues and I am interested to know how you resolve the shifter spring load with the assembly rotated 180 degrees? The original configuration has a lever spring load on the left side of the pattern (1-2). In your photo the lever spring load is on the right side of the pattern (5-R). Is that acceptable, or do you have an additional modification?

[jbs72697]

We like this Momo leather shift knob. Also have a FFR knob we will not be using and would be happy to sell. Shift knob 1.jpgShift knob 2.jpgShift knob 3.jpg

I’m scheduled to pick up my kit next week. Hope you’ve been able to drive your 818 with the good weather we’ve had recently
I didn’t order a shift knob with my kit. Do you still have it available?

[idf]

I’m scheduled to pick up my kit next week. Hope you’ve been able to drive your 818 with the good weather we’ve had recently
I didn’t order a shift knob with my kit. Do you still have it available?

It is available. Let me know if if I can help with the pickup.

[jbs72697]

It is available. Let me know if if I can help with the pickup.

That’s a nice offer. As of now, my 89 year old dad wants to go but if his plans change I can let you know
Shoot me a DM or email how much you want for the knob. When I placed the order I thought I’d look around to find one I liked better, but the more I looked the more I thought the FFR one would be cool

[mcamera]

Ajzride
If you want something that won't get hot look for a Delrin shift knob. I have a 450gram shift knob on mine, but I have the mechanical linkage, not sure how it would feel with cables.

https://raceseng.com/topology-build-your-own

https://www.hybrid-racing.com/produc...rin-shift-knob

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...s-01-06-0104-1

I like that Topology knob. All of these would be in my top 5 if I don't like Grimmspeed knob. I almost got a Killer B delrin knob but decided to be adventurous and try a weighted knob. I'm hoping it adds a little confidence to my low shifter. Still waiting on my cables to see how shifting feels.

idf
We like this Momo leather shift knob. Also have a FFR knob we will not be using and would be happy to sell. Attachment 146429Attachment 146430Attachment 146431

Thank you for the offer. I already ordered a knob and it looks like you have another buyer.

J R Jones
Mcamera, I have had a book on ergonomics and body-mechanics, but I can not find it. My memory is that a "punching motion" is natural and comfortable. When the forearm is pitched down, perceived forward effort is greater, I think.
I am dealing with 818 shifter issues and I am interested to know how you resolve the shifter spring load with the assembly rotated 180 degrees? The original configuration has a lever spring load on the left side of the pattern (1-2). In your photo the lever spring load is on the right side of the pattern (5-R). Is that acceptable, or do you have an additional modification?

I'm not worried about the effort being too high, but the motion just feeling unnatural. I should know this week when I get my shifting cables and go kart. Flipping the shifter 180 degrees will reverse the push/pull of the shifting cables. I have a 5 speed bell crank from Zero Decibel Motorsports to reverse the motions again at the transmission. So they are back to normal.

[Ajzride]

I had the factory shifter reversed for rear entry for a while until I got a billet one. If you have the lever pressed out and turned around or get a straight lever, then the ergonomics are not affect. Flipping the shifter around does not change the effort, just the action as noted already.

[mcamera]

Has anybody else had to modify their shifter cables? I'm using the FFR plastic shifter turned around 180deg for rear exit cables + the Zero Decibel bell crank. I ordered 8' long cables from Midwest Control and I don't know if I ordered the wrong cables or they just need some slight modifications. The metal sleeve that the ends slide in and out of look too long and limit the travel at the shifter connections. I can cut those back 1" easily. But the cable for my side to side shifting looks several inches too long. I'd have to cut and tap that rod so I thought I'd ask before I ruin my cable I waited 10 days for.

Here's the Midwest cable I bought (x2)
https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/40-0...-3-MSF-4-QD250

Slide1.JPG Slide2.JPG Slide3.JPG Slide4.JPG

[Sgt.Gator]

Side note, I noticed my Mishimoto radiator cap was slightly hissing on cool down so I ordered an OEM replacement cap. According to FastWRX, they prefer the OEM over any aftermarket caps. Sounds like leaking is a common issue for them. Just an FYI for anybody with an aftermarket cap.

First off there are two versions of the oem cap, one with ears and one without. See below, they are quite different and you don't want to reverse them....

Almost everyone puts the included Mishimoto Cap on their new Mishimoto Radiator. That is incorrect, here's what it says on the Mishimoto website:
"Caution
The provided Mishimoto radiator cap should replace the stock cap located on the expansion tank. The stock cap attached to the radiator should be installed on the Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator. The Mishimoto radiator cap is a two-way valve, while the stock radiator cap is a single valve. Due to the difference in construction, the Mishimoto cap cannot be used on the radiator. If the Mishimoto cap is fit on the radiator, overheating may occur."

Of course that's assuming you are still running the stock oem setup with the degas/expansion tank and oem overflow bottle. Our 818 builders have used a variety of different methods. There's a couple of good threads on how to setup the system.

Whenever I hear a Subaru is having cooling issues (as in a WRX/STI/LGT) I always check the caps first. The oem cap with NO ears goes on the radiator, the oem cap WITH ears goes on the expansion tank. Folks get them reversed all the time because they are so used to having the radiator cap with ears on all their other cars. Subaru did that because they don't want you to open the cap on the radiator, all filling should go thru the expansion tank.

[FFRWRX]

I'd have to cut and tap that rod so I thought I'd ask before I ruin my cable I waited 10 days for.
]

Looks like it should not be a problem to run the thread farther down the rod and then cut it off shorter. If you have a die, you can try running it down the rod (clamp it in a vice) and see how it goes before cutting the rod off.