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MB750's MKIV Roadster build thread
It begins!
Roadster Order Screen.jpg
It's a complete kit. I recently bought a complete 95 Mustang GT with a lot of neglect so I'm going with the complete kit so I get all new components, but I'll rebuild the engine, trans, and axle.
I've also been emailing Dan with some topical questions. At this point it looks like sometime in November it'll be done. That gives me plenty of time to get my donor parts torn apart and rebuilt.
This is gonna be a blast! I've rebuilt TONS of motorcycles from frame-off cleanups to monster motor Harleys so I'm no stranger to spinning wrenches. I'm also going to take this back a few decades with the technology. Carb will replace the FI, but the engine is getting a full cleanup by a local machine shop and I'll do a 347 kit with AFR heads. I'm also planning on putting 3.08 gears in the back because I want this to be a fun road car, not a dragster. I used to have an 88 GT with 3.73's and first was useless.
I'll definitely keep this thread going as things progress but it's gonna be slow.
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Congratulations and welcome to the craziness. You’ve come to the right place for help and support
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Congrats, MB750! I like to see builders with mech. experience join...more opportunities for lesser experienced builders (like me!) to learn from. Let the waiting begin! I thought the 12 or so weeks for my kit to complete and deliver was a long time. That's darn quick nowadays. Let the waiting begin! I'm remember the feeling, and excited for you.
Chris
Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24.
Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
MK4 Complete kit.
Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin.
Build Thread.
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Thanks fellas. Even though I have built quite a bit of mechanical stuff in my life this is a completely new endeavor where I also stand to learn a lot of new things as well. I've already watched many build videos and vlogs which I'm sure will help.
I'll post up some pics later today of my current teardown of the donor, and over the next few months pics and reports of the drivetrain rebuilding.
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Not a waxer
Welcome! We'll enjoy following along
Jeff
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20220220_180245.jpg
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Well there's your problem right there (and the reason I got the whole car so cheap):
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And if I had long enough 7/16"x14 bolts she'd be on the stand right now. Oh well, another trip to Ace is in order.
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How do I post full size pics?
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I love finding Easter Eggs in projects as I tear them apart.
I was going with a 3.27 anyway.
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Not a waxer
Good find! I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 3.27 from the factory in a 5 speed pushrod engine SN95. More often found in automatic equipped mod motor cars. That will work well if you use the original T-5 with it’s short 3.35 first gear!
Jeff
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Hey, welcome to the fun. Great to see experienced folks do a build thread, as was already mentioned. Looking forward to your updates.
MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
Meandering, leisurely build thread is
here
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Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
Good find! I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 3.27 from the factory in a 5 speed pushrod engine SN95. More often found in automatic equipped mod motor cars. That will work well if you use the original T-5 with it’s short 3.35 first gear!
Jeff
There's an outside chance this car had an Auto from the factory, but going from Auto to Manual is a real pain in the *** so chances are this is an OG axle. I can run the options if I dig deep enough, but I'm at the point with this car where now that I've gutted all the assets I want it gone and get started on the engine.
I might be able to run the tag off the trans and see what it comes with.
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I've got a set of Wiseco 4.030" bore forged pistons on the way that only have -7cc relief volume. In conjunction with the AFR heads I'm going with at 59cc combustion chambers I can be anywhere from 8.3:1 up around 10:1 depending on the thickness of the Cometic head gaskets I use. I'll be starting at 10:1 since this engine will only be fed 93 octane, and I'll have complete control over the timing. If I ever slap a power adder on it (boost) I'll just get thicker head gaskets and longer pushrods.
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So I just learned something I'd like to share with y'all. There's two common forgings for AL pistons; 4032 and 2618. These slugs are 4032 forged aluminum. That's all well and good, but in my speed lust I was planning on boosting this engine if the power ever came up lacking. Nothing crazy, only about 7-10 psi, and I can soften the compression with thicker Cometic head gaskets, but apparently 4032 doesn't take well to being boosted (or used with N2O) on account of it being slightly more brittle than 2618. It's a great OEM replacement option since it's stronger than cast and more malleable than hypereutectic, but apparently not soft enough for even mild boost like the 2618 is.
And when I dig further Wiseco also makes 2618 forgings for the 302, but they're around $900, and that's just for the slugs. Add for rings and you're over a grand! I got this whole kit for $575, so I'll take my 4032's and run what I brung.
Edit: I should say, Wiseco "recommends" not using these 4032 pistons in a boosted application, but there's TONS of people on the internet doing it with no reported issues. Granted, I'm not talking about drag applications, just hot street, 500hp type stuff. I'm still going to take the ring gaps out to boosted values as well, just in case.
Last edited by MB750; 03-08-2022 at 05:30 PM.
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Playing with the axle a bit. There was quite a leak coming from somewhere so I split the cover off and rested it upright to see what end the leak was coming out of:
From the looks of that little spot there might be a seal change in my future, but that could also be residue dripping down from all the previous leaking down the front of the differential. I'll leave it like this for a few weeks to see.
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Only 7 pics per post apparently. Here's a better shot of the rod with Peyronie's:
Any suggestions on replacements?
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Gave my crank a good polishin' tonight:
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No pics, just info. I mic'd the crank journal clearance with the new bearings I got from Summit and I've got .003". Ideally you want .001" of clearance for each inch of journal diameter. This means my max should be .0023". .003" is too much, so I ordered some .001" undersized bearings to get me more in the window I'm interested in. I'd like to run 5W30 in this engine and you should be at the tight end of the spec for that. Thicker oils are for fatter gaps.
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I'll let you guess which one is the aftermarket rod:
And they're floating wrist pins with a brass bushing, so no more pressing the wrist pins into the rods like a neanderthal. The listing says they're rated for 1000 hp, but color me skeptical. They're at least beefier looking than the OEM rod. Big end is perfectly round too, not even off a ten-thousandth.
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MB-
I have enjoyed reading your build thread. I also admit that I sincerely admire you for taking on the engine rebuild yourself! I have always admired the guys that could do that work. Frankly, it scares the heck out of me! There is so much riding on such small tolerances. I just know I would make a modest mistake, or overlook one item, and would be picking up engine pieces out of the neighbor's trees!
Thanks for bringing us along for the journey, and, good luck the rest of the way! I am really looking forward to following your progress -- give it heck!!
Regards,
Steve
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Originally Posted by
WIS89
MB-
I have enjoyed reading your build thread. I also admit that I sincerely admire you for taking on the engine rebuild yourself! I have always admired the guys that could do that work. Frankly, it scares the heck out of me! There is so much riding on such small tolerances. I just know I would make a modest mistake, or overlook one item, and would be picking up engine pieces out of the neighbor's trees!
Thanks for bringing us along for the journey, and, good luck the rest of the way! I am really looking forward to following your progress -- give it heck!!
Regards,
Steve
Thank you Steve. I've built a few Harley engines before so I'm not too nervous. So far I'm just making sure all the I's are dotted and T's crossed based on my previous engine building experience. Rest assured, I'll be 100% transparent during this entire build process. This stuff is fun for me. Kinda relaxing to be honest.
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And now the annoying news, I need undersized rod bearings as well. I did the same thing as on the mains and have .003" clearance on the rod bearings, which is more than I want. Clevite to the rescue again, just have to wait a few days for Summit to pull thru. Oh well. Not like I'm in a hurry or anything.
Last edited by MB750; 04-03-2022 at 08:05 PM.
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Next order of business, I've got an order coming with a cam, some lifters, cam drive gear set, and a gasket kit for the timing cover and water pump. Once those are on I can wrap up the oil pan, but before that I need to weld a bung on it for a turbo oil drain just in case I ever decide to boost this thing.
Then it's time to order my AFR heads and rockers.
Last edited by MB750; 04-08-2022 at 02:00 PM.
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Originally Posted by
MB750
Only 7 pics per post apparently. Here's a better shot of the rod with Peyronie's:
Any suggestions on replacements?
I would be the last person to recommend a replacement but LOVE how you dropped in a little medical jargon .. Totally agree there is a slight curve
FFR MK4 Roadster (9945) complete kit, delivered 12/4/2020, First start and go kart 5/7/2021. Legal 8/14/2021, Paint finished 7/18/2022 (Viking Blue). 347BPE CI, TKO600, Moser 8.8 3link 3.55, Halibrand 17x9 17x10.5, power steering. Carbon Fiber Dash. Carbon Fiber trans tunnel, adjustable Kirkey Lowback Vintage seats, Vintage gauges, RT drop trunk mod, FFmetal drop battery mod and trans tunnel, Forte front sway bar. Forte mechanical throttle linkage, RT gas pedal.
www.covespringsfarm.com
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This is fun to watch. Great job with this thread. I used the same pistons in my 306. Well, not the “same pistons” but you know what I mean.
Like you I built a few bikes soup to nuts. I chickened out on a lot of the engine assembly and I definitely regret it. Nobody is going to care about your engine as much as you. I think I will have an 818 in my future someday and will do that from the ground up.
Welcome aboard!
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
...Nobody is going to care about your engine as much as you. I think I will have an 818 in my future someday and will do that from the ground up.
That is exactly why I do much of my own work on everything. To the simplest extent, why pay some kid to change my oil when I can do it myself cheaper and have a 100% guarantee the exact oil I wanted with the exact filter was used. And I can do some other maintenance and checks during the process (air tires, check the undercarriage for issues, check air filter, etc...) I'm very passionate about mechanical systems. NOBODY will care for my stuff better than me.
Have fun with that 818. I had a 2009 WRX back a few years ago and it was a blast, especially in the snow (when I lived in Wisconsin). I may also do an 818 some day but I'll definitely do a boosted version. It'd be nice if they did an AWD/front engine version as well.
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Sorry I didn't get any progress pics on this, but there wasn't much neat to see anyway. Just installing the cam, lifters, spider, and timing chain. I went with the B303 PLUS cam from Summit. It's just like the Ford Motorsports B-cam but with more lift.
Once I get the heads on I'll be confirming the cam timing.
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