25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: CA SB100 Registered!

[JohnK]

Also should have mentioned that besides running the HAAT wire to the speedo hot start wire, you'll also want to run it to the clock power wire so the clock is powered at all times.

[facultyofmusic]

slow progress, got the power steering pump and compressor installed, pretty straight forward stuff here - undo the serpentine belt, remove a few bolts, add a bracket, and replace belts

Attachment 156382 Attachment 156383
note the KRC Power Steering KRC 25304000 Aluminium Flow Valve (6AN Male ID - 4) as recommended by many on the forums
Attachment 156384

Also, the compressor is simple as well- 3 long bolts, but the tricky part is getting that belt attached correctly!
The FFR instructions make you think there's a ton of space behind the crank pulley LOL, nope maybe the belts thickness is all you have!
It's an interesting process using zip ties, and rotating the engine, but it snapped in place!
Attachment 156385

lastly I'm trying to do some pre-fit on the headers, may as well make sure the bolts are threading properly
mainly because nobody wants to be underneath the engine struggling with bolts more than need be!
I am using the Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for Ford Coyote 5.0 which should make it a one-and-done setup!

I can't fully thread the lower bolts on the stand (no clearance) so maybe will play a bit more once I get it on the engine hoist
I am digging the jet-hot coating though!
Attachment 156386

Toadster sir, I'm curious about those header bolts you got. Are those significantly better than FFR provided (more like GOING to provide cuz backorder) bolts? Wondering if you saw them recommended from some place. I want to drop my coyote in soon and I'm not gonna let a few bolts hold me up. :P

[toadster]

Toadster sir, I'm curious about those header bolts you got. Are those significantly better than FFR provided (more like GOING to provide cuz backorder) bolts? Wondering if you saw them recommended from some place. I want to drop my coyote in soon and I'm not gonna let a few bolts hold me up. :P

they lock in your header bolts, they won't back out at all... I figure I don't want to re-tighten the bolts so it's a one-and-done method - very high reviews on these parts

Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for Ford Coyote 5.0

[Joynt Venture]

Dash hoop.jpg

I followed the template exactly and the speedo just rubs on the hoop. The glove box is a close fit. You can see the exposure on the center of the hoop on mine. After I put the body on, it did show. So I am working on raising the dash and slightly losing some of the level of the dash. It's a balance, but will look better than having the bronze/gold frame slapping me in the face!

[facultyofmusic]

they lock in your header bolts, they won't back out at all... I figure I don't want to re-tighten the bolts so it's a one-and-done method - very high reviews on these parts

Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for Ford Coyote 5.0

Sweet! Ordered a set!

[toadster]

my wife and I took some much needed time off and went to the coast (Pacifica, CA) for 5 days last week - wonderful break!
IMG_4428.jpg IMG_5211.jpg IMG_4426.jpg

Took another jump into the wiring yesterday... i DID get notice that FFR shipped my last 3 parts for the AC/Heater setup...
still waiting on the ECU for the coyote

We got our 12v bench test setup, which is IMHO something everyone should have now that we've been using it!
IMG_4415.jpg

110V/220V to DC 12V 30A 360W Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Transformer $25
- Input: 110V/220V AC; Output: DC 12V 30A max. Output voltage is adjustable 15%. Three output channels
- this supports up to 3 12V connections, we are only using 2 for now

CESS-083 Female Banana Jack to Spade Plug for Speaker Cable (Small Spade) $10
- these needed a trim on the spade plug to fit the terminals on the power supply but this is a great quick connect/disconnect for the alligators

Multimeter Banana Plug to Crocodile Alligator Clip Test Probe, 2PCS $18 for 2 sets
- nice 3 foot cord gives you 'play room' when setting up tests

6ft 18 Gauge 3 Prong Heavy Duty Replacement Power Supply Cord $15
- I'd suggest a power cord with a built in switch as there is no on/off for the power supply

we were previously using a benchtop 12v battery and it just doesn't have the 'oomph' to get the job done, so this plug in test unit is awesome!

Lots of line tracing, labelling and test connecting going on
I got the Dyno Rhino 5200 shrink tube labeler, IMHO this is critical to the setup - and will hopefully help with any future troubleshooting as well
IMG_4456.jpg IMG_4458.jpg IMG_4457.jpg

here's a quick 1:12 video on our quick test

[JohnK]

What a wonderful getaway! Looks like you managed to find a day that Pacifica wasn't absolutely socked in with fog - pretty rare out there.

That's a nice setup for power testing. I have a Power Probe, which also does a great job but is quite a bit pricier and maxes out at 10 or 15A (don't remember). I did pop the built-in resettable breaker a few times testing some of the higher-powered items.

[toadster]

What a wonderful getaway! Looks like you managed to find a day that Pacifica wasn't absolutely socked in with fog - pretty rare out there.

That's a nice setup for power testing. I have a Power Probe, which also does a great job but is quite a bit pricier and maxes out at 10 or 15A (don't remember). I did pop the built-in resettable breaker a few times testing some of the higher-powered items.

yeah, we were surprised - all 5 days it was clear! maybe a touch of fog before 9am, but otherwise warmer than here in the Sacramento area!

as for the power supply, I saw lots of reviews of this one for $25, and it seems to hold up pretty well, time will tell!

[toadster]

also worked on the used Tanget light setup that I purchased a while back
I have replacement light housing units and LED lights as the halogen setups don't cast much light, and they get pretty hot

The existing setup has a two-position switch, 1 toggle turns on the parking lights, and the other turns on the fog/driving lights
My design will most likely run the parking lights in conjunction with the turn signal running lights and use my driving light switch to just activate the driving lights themselves



here's the wiring diagram that I received with the kit just in case anyone wants/needs this
tangent-light-wiring.png

[toadster]

some minor updates...

had to get some more blue loctite to set the horns before we drilled and set the front wiring harness

IMG_4479.jpg

my son and I have been running circles on the wiring for the radiator fan (believe that?) because with the A/C setup the Trinary switch AND the COYOTE ECU can decide when the fan turns on - so we've done a lot of prep on the wiring, I think we're ready - but just need the dang ECU to arrive - we ordered it last APRIL!!!

thanks @edwardb for your guidance!!

so I continued on other mods...

since the engine bay is going to be insanely tight with the A/C setup, I decided to remove the CMCV valves off the back of the coyote
as you can see, those snails on the back of the intake are there for your average Coyote vehicle, Mustang, F-150, etc... for the Cobra, with a tune (that is required anyways) - these won't be needed (or missed)
they take up a tremendous amount of space on the back of the motor ~ 5 inches by measurement

IMG_4471.jpg IMG_4472.jpg


I got a CMCV lockout kit on ebay for about $15 to set the runners open all the time
there were about 6 t-20 torx screws to remove and 2 circlips - then you attach the billet lockout spacer, just attach with 2 of the screws you removed...
the circlip side wasn't shallow enough to re-attach the circlips but I don't see these moving whatsoever due to the sturdiness of the billet parts fitting perfectly...

IMG_4473.jpg IMG_4475.jpg IMG_4478.jpg

some much needed space is now freed up!

[John Ibele]

Toadster ... nice space-saver and engine bay beautifier all in one. Good to see you finding ways to make progress without the ECU!

[Canyonblue]

What's the difference between the -50A controller vs the -50B?

isn't A for an auto and B for a manual?

[toadster]

What's the difference between the -50A controller vs the -50B?

isn't A for an auto and B for a manual?

A is for Gen1/2 coyote and B is for Gen3

[Canyonblue]

Ahhh...thanks.

Maybe I should consider ordering the ECU now and the engine later!

[toadster]

last week was a brutal work week, not much done on the car - trying to tidy up things and remembered I had to wire the LED converter into the harness...

many see this as a simple add-on to the harness, by my son and I really struggled with the premise to be honest...
this thread was awesome! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-sorted-THANKS

harness-converter-with-lights.png tail-wires.jpg


I left a door in the trunk for access to the fuel pump and it's where the wiring loom splits for the rear lights
long story short - when you use the LED converter the PURPLE wire is not needed for the rear lights

I also am adding a 3rd brake light so I wired an extra feed into the purple/red brake feed (before the converter)

with a mistaken cut of the purple wires - I had to bond 6 wires together to make this setup work, ended up using a large heat shrink with a solder joint - fingers crossed it feels pretty solid!

IMG_4510.jpg IMG_4511.jpg

I know - fun pics of wires! LOL
it's all part of the process...

the nice thing is that we will tuck all this right below the trunk area and ensure things are watertight with all the shrink tubing - I'll be pre-testing the connections from the harness in the front before buttoning this all up.

[460.465USMC]

Hey Todd. Glad you remembered the converter in plenty of time! I can’t explain it, but I pondered the wiring for the converter WAY too long. Is it because I joined the 50s club last year? I can’t afford to lose any more brain cells.

Good progress on your wiring.

[toadster]

Hey Todd. Glad you remembered the converter in plenty of time! I can’t explain it, but I pondered the wiring for the converter WAY too long. Is it because I joined the 50s club last year? I can’t afford to lose any more brain cells.

Good progress on your wiring.

Thanks Chris! I'm in the same boat, brain cells fading LOL
Now I'm struggling on how to test without the full car being battery connected!

[Windsor]

Thanks Chris! I'm in the same boat, brain cells fading LOL
Now I'm struggling on how to test without the full car being battery connected!

Pull the fuse and inject power through the downstream pin in the fuse slot.

(Be sure to fuse your power supply just in case you find a wiring foopah the fun way)

[toadster]

starting to make things look like they're progressing, lots of time into wiring but wanted to get the cubby finished up so we can get the cockpit finished up

since I'm putting in some audio, we had to find a spot to run all the wiring
for comfort lights I'll be mounting up 4 LED strips, one in the trunk and one in the cubby (and 1 each in the footwells) and will chase that along with the audio/power cables through a 3/4" grommet
also wired in a flasher for the 3rd brake light - they're cheap for $15, but I think will add a bit more notice to the brake light
IMG_4541.jpg IMG_4557.jpg IMG_4543.jpg

I realized that the RCA cable I had was about 20 ft long, which is about 14 feet too long! so ordered a new 6ft one with some more split wire loom to run down the center of the car from the cubby
Next was to get some carpet in the cubby, nothing special but it's our first set of carpet cuts and holy cow is it messy! I swear we will find carpet fuzz for the next 3 years, and we just started!
IMG_4562.jpg

since the build deviates from the norm - we used some of the trunk carpet included in the kit to cover the cubby and the back of the cubby wall
I ordered more black 20oz carpet from Bass Boat Seats which has been highly recommended on this site, we'll likely use the FFR carpet as a template for the new carpet

the 3M Super90 glue is amazing, literally spray on the carpet, and on the panel - let it tack up and bam it's set!
IMG_4563.jpg IMG_4564.jpg

just have a few more wires to test in the rear of the car and the trunk and cubby will be done, then we can finalize the cockpit metal

still waiting on my ECU

[toadster]

finally tested out the tail lights, had to provide power to the fusebox to get it to work correctly!
without power the rear lights will not light from the yellow/white wires at either side from the brake pedal, but that purple wire works every time (the one that is not used!)

had a bit of fun when the key was turned too far and the fuel pump kicked in for a few seconds

tidied up the cubby wiring and now we're ready to seal it up and mount the cockpit wall (finally!)
IMG_4571.jpg

[toadster]

Good news ECU is finally shipped!
also ended up ordering a set of GASn Touring pipes...

time to sell my FFR polished sidepipes!

[Ted G]

Good news ECU is finally shipped!
also ended up ordering a set of GASn Touring pipes...

time to sell my FFR polished sidepipes!

Congrats on getting the ECU shipped..... dang that took long. How long did George say the sidepipes would be? I ordered mine in November and still don't have them. Just got the headers last week.

[toadster]

Congrats on getting the ECU shipped..... dang that took long. How long did George say the sidepipes would be? I ordered mine in November and still don't have them. Just got the headers last week.

Thanks Ted! Georgie said it's about 10-12 weeks out due to stainless availability and pricing, but he sent a quick video - dang they look gorgeous!

[toadster]

travelled last week, first time in 2 years for work!

got the rear wiring completed, may need to run 1 more line for reverse lights but not a big deal

also finished carpeting the trunk!

IMG_4575.jpg IMG_4623.jpg IMG_4629.jpg

for some reason the last pic looks gray, but it's black 20oz bassboat carpet

[toadster]

also wired up the Breeze quick-disconnect harness for the rear lights tonight

IMG_4630.jpg IMG_4631.jpg IMG_4633.jpg

[Joynt Venture]

I got the Gas-N pipes mounted just before I left Florida. They are works of art! Now I need to let the world thaw a bit before I can get it out of the trailer and back into the garage here in Wisconsin.

[Joynt Venture]

Have you drilled the trunk for the license light wiring yet? I started to drill to on the right (PS) side of the lid near the hinge mount. I'm in about a quarter inch and haven't gotten through the aluminum yet. I stopped there.

[toadster]

Have you drilled the trunk for the license light wiring yet? I started to drill to on the right (PS) side of the lid near the hinge mount. I'm in about a quarter inch and haven't gotten through the aluminum yet. I stopped there.

originally I had the license plate wiring in the trunk floor, but decided to move it where Papa did his - keeps the floor open and less 'stuff' to hang up on in that tiny space!

pic206.jpg

[Joynt Venture]

originally I had the license plate wiring in the trunk floor, but decided to move it where Papa did his - keeps the floor open and less 'stuff' to hang up on in that tiny space!

pic206.jpg

I'm referring to the trunk lid itself. Where will you run these wires to then connect to the license bracket?

[toadster]

I'm referring to the trunk lid itself. Where will you run these wires to then connect to the license bracket?

oh - the trunk (and body) is at the painters, I think many go the route of Papa and edwardb by running it up the passenger trunk mount
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post331147

[facultyofmusic]

travelled last week, first time in 2 years for work!

got the rear wiring completed, may need to run 1 more line for reverse lights but not a big deal

also finished carpeting the trunk!

IMG_4575.jpg IMG_4623.jpg IMG_4629.jpg

for some reason the last pic looks gray, but it's black 20oz bassboat carpet

Loving the little hinge. Gonna borrow your idea.

[Joynt Venture]

oh - the trunk (and body) is at the painters, I think many go the route of Papa and edwardb by running it up the passenger trunk mount
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post331147

I see in the pic that he is further toward the outside edge than I am. Thanks for the tag !

[toadster]

I was a happy camper today! my Coyote ECU FINALLY ARRIVED! Ordered April 2021, Coyote arrived October 2021, ECU delivered April 2022! yikes!

I got things unboxed and started on some simple (ha!) things tonight!

Simplest thing to do was the mass air flow meter
labelled the collar to make sure it's installed properly, it's a real shame that they ship the whole intake with air filter and the only part used is the MAF!
IMG_4709.jpg

next up was the coyote gas pedal - I thought, some trimming, flipping and 2 screws should be done in 20 minutes... NOPE!

followed the 'instructions' and quickly realized that they're a bit lacking...
cut off the right mount, flip and trim the pedal - that's pretty straight forward

IMG_4710.jpg IMG_4711.jpg IMG_4713.jpg

I mounted the coyote pedal 'mount' a LONG time ago, and it's been waiting for this part!
The pedal is IMPOSSIBLE to mount from below, it conflicts with the steering shaft and the pedal box - so I had to do some disassembly

un-cleco'ed the inside driver footbox, and loosened the Russ Thompson turn signal and removed the steering shaft - but the pedal STILL didn't fit - it's that tight!
obviously this would have been much easier had the pedal been here before the pedalbox and brakes were installed - but carry-on!

Once i got the hard parts out of the way - the pedal STILL wouldn't fit - so I had to remove more material
IMG_4714.jpg IMG_4715.jpg
these weren't even the final pics of what had to be shaved, trimmed, etc. even the right side had to have nearly all the webbing removed to create enough space to get the 2 screws in place
sadly even the provided screws don't fit the Gen3 pedal with the metal brackets so I had to scrape up some 1/4x20 screws with locknuts

so what originally was going to be a 20 minute job, turned into 3 hours - but at least I have my 3rd pedal now!
IMG_4716.jpg

[Ted G]

I can't believe that took a year! Holy Moly! I was hoping to catch up with you on the build.... lol

[toadster]

another update - I've been working on 'things' while waiting for the ECU...

one thing to note, when you get all the inventory - some items may be blended across multiple packages - case in point, the gauges come with sensors, but not the mounting parts to affix them to an engine...
FFR does a pretty good job when itemizing things, and I was going crazy trying to find adapters to mount sensors - case in point the water temp sender, FFR provides a 'stepped' method for the sensors

I was fortunate enough to find Al_C's thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...hange-the-size

I opted to order a 3/4" to 1/8" NPT adapter to mitigate binding multiple adapters together to make this fit - simple $10 tweak

in the pic below, the upper part is the 3/4" to 1/2" adapter - the 1/2" to 1/8" adapter was missing in my parts
the middle is the new 3/4" to 1/8" NPT adapter
the bottom is the original plug from the coyote engine
IMG_4687 (1).jpg

you can see the installed part in the block below, it's a tiny space saver in comparison to the FFR model
-pic using my new adapter, saves about an inch of space
IMG_4688 (1).jpg

FFR model (if you have the parts)
Screenshot 2022-04-21 131013.png

I also have been struggling to figure out how to install the oil sender
After several emails with FFR we realized that my parts list did NOT include parts 16903,16904 and 16905 which make up the oil sender connections - so waiting on them to ship out
this could be that I've had the kit now for 2 years, and the Gen3 configs had not been fully dialed in back then...

definitely a lot more to do, but progressing daily!

[460.465USMC]

I got things unboxed and started on some simple (ha!) things tonight!....next up was the coyote gas pedal - I thought, some trimming, flipping and 2 screws should be done in 20 minutes... NOPE!

...followed the 'instructions' and quickly realized that they're a bit lacking...

so what originally was going to be a 20 minute job, turned into 3 hours - but at least I have my 3rd pedal now!

Great to hear your ECU package arrived! I hear you on the Coyote pedal fitment. Even though I had all of the parts up front, I still spent many hours (too embarrassing to say the number publicly) until I was happy with how it fit.

[johnpinetree]

Hey Toadster, you've been crushing! My mind/heart/garage are finally starting to thaw so I'm picking my build back up. Had a question for you on the 90* thermostat housing mod to avoid ABS interference. Do you have a picture or a post you can point me to? I saw you mentioned Mike Craven's advice but I'm instagram averse.

Again, looking great!

[toadster]

Hey Toadster, you've been crushing! My mind/heart/garage are finally starting to thaw so I'm picking my build back up. Had a question for you on the 90* thermostat housing mod to avoid ABS interference. Do you have a picture or a post you can point me to? I saw you mentioned Mike Craven's advice but I'm instagram averse.

Again, looking great!

Thanks John! The part we used is ATI AB018A-052 2015+ Mustang GT H.O. Thermostat Housing (Can be used on the 2015-17 as well as the 2018+ Coyote)
It's not cheap at $116, but will fit the bill for mounting the hose in the space that the ABS HCU takes up!

thermostat-housing.png

[toadster]

small update - it's been a crazy few months of travel and life...

finally got the rear buttoned up by riveting the rear cockpit wall, and planning on laying out the ThermoTec and get carpet installed






also, did the activated charcoal canister / sprinkler head setup for vapor collection; fun side project to keep the garage from stinking of gas

here's the parts list:

(1) Orbit 54346 4" 300 Series Spring-Loaded Pop-Up Sprinkler $3.99
(1) 3/8" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPT Male $3.60
(2) 3/8''–5/8'' 304 Stainless Steel Worm Gear Hose Clamps 80 cents for 2
(1) Kitchen Bathtub Sink Strainer < $1
(1 bag) Activated Charcoal Carbon Pellets ~$9
(1) #3 ACC Conduit Hanger $5
(30") Fuel Line 3/8" ID ~$3/ft

whole setup is about $30, granted you could probably get a charcoal cannister from the junkyard for the same (or cheaper)

simple enough setup, but thought I'd document for someone who hasn't see/found this yet

1. dissasemble the sprinkler head, you just want the hollow shell, and open on both ends for now
2. I re-used the bottom of my sprinkler valve since it had a metal breather at the bottom - keeps the pellets from coming out the bottom
3. take your new strainer and trim it just a bit larger than the screw top
aYnKQ91.jpg
4. fill up the sprinkler head with the activated carbon granules, almost to the top depending on how your sink filter is shaped, mine is concave
5. put the strainer on top of the charcoal, and screw down the cap
Ti7znzd.jpg
6. add the 1/2" MIP (hose) end to the sprinkler head, I used a little teflon tape, but probably overkill here
hFeRisu.jpg

Now you prep the body for install.
Since I have the Boyd Welding Gas Tank my breather valve is on the passenger side, so I opted to route my breather hose up and into the rear tire well

Since my mount point was in the rear panel, but also occluded by the interior trunk panel, I used an M6 rivnut to mount the #3 ACC bracket
simple enough, and hopefully out of the way of everything
ApUSawn.jpg 18LzMIr.jpg

slow progress is still progress - right?

[toadster]

a little more last night, 100+ outside, so I had the portable A/C cranking in the garage

I'm sure not a new idea, but using the carpet pieces really helps to pre-cut your Thermo-Tec

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